A pleasure to read
Dr. Weil's graceful and reasoned prose tends one to serenity and contemplation. What I found myself contemplating as I was reading this beautifully presented book about food was Dr. Weil himself. I recall him as the enfant terrible author of the bourgeois-shocking The Natural Mind: A New Way of Looking at Drugs and the Higher Consciousness (1972), a book that helped to persuade a generation of Americans to question the establishment's anti-drug mentality. The theme of that book, if I recall correctly, was that human beings have a natural drive to explore other states of consciousness.
Now Dr. Weil is a middle-aged man like myself, and the fires of youth have turned to...extra-virgin olive oil and tofu! Who says that wisdom does not come with age? As I absorbed Weil's ideas about how to eat properly I couldn't help but notice what has changed since the balmy days of our youth, nutritionally-speaking, and what Weil has, in his diverse travels, both on the surface of this planet and within, learned about how to eat.
He is a vegetarian who loves food. The simple, but inviting recipes on pages 209-260 attest to that. He will eat dairy products in moderation and fish, but he prefers to get his proteins from plants. He believes that refined and highly processed carbohydrate foods (those with a "high gylcemic index"; see his table on pages 56-57) can have disastrous effects on the health of many people, pointing to native Hawaiians and Native Americans as examples (p. 63). Surprisingly he doesn't see dietary fat as the bugaboo it once was as long as one limits the intake of saturated fats and returns to the shelf any product including the words "partially hydrogenated" on the label (192-193). He touts olive oil and makes a very close distinction among saturated, monounsaturated, and polyunsaturated oils, opting for a balanced intake in the ratio, respectively, of 1:2:1 (p. 262). He believes that we need to incorporate more omega-3 fatty acids from primarily fish oils, soybeans and walnuts into our diets as opposed to omega-6 oils.
New to me is Weil's contention that vegetarians need not be concerned about the notion of "complementary protein" that we learned about years ago. No longer do we have to combine vegetable foods, corn with beans, for example, to get all the necessary amino acids that our bodies need. He says that Frances Moore Lappé, who brought the concept to a large readership in the seventies with her very popular Diet for a Small Planet (1971), is mistaken and that "the body is clever enough to find missing essential amino acids...from the vast numbers of bacteria that inhabit the lower intestinal tract or from the vast numbers of cells that slough off the lining of the digestive tract every day" (p. 104). I wonder. I do know that when I eat a meal of complementary protein, say tortillas and beans, it tastes especially good, exponentially good in fact, compared to eating just one of those foods alone. Also getting essential amino acids by eating your own cells begs the question of where the essential amino acids came from in the first place. If they really come from intestinal tract bacteria in significant amounts—an intriguing and delightful concept (we farm within!)—perhaps we ought to know more about how such a system works. Does intestinal tract length matter? Are there bacteria cultures we might imbibe? (Maybe this is Weil's next book!)
I also wonder about the significance of the distinction he makes between basmati rice from India and other kinds of rice. He claims that the rice usually eaten in China and Japan is mostly amylopectin starch that is "much easier to digest" than the mostly amylose starch in basmati rice (p. 39). His point is that how fast we digest a starch affects "blood sugar levels, which, in turn, affects our energy, our tendency to gain weight, and our general health" (p. 39) He claims on the following page that "Even if you are ‘carbohydrate sensitive,' you can enjoy some white rice if you choose a lower-glycemic-index variety like basmati."
My confidence in Dr. Weil is not shaken by the inclusion as an appendix the fantastic notion that people might be able to exist without eating. ( See "Appendix D: The Possibility of Surviving Without Eating.") I am not concerned because Weil slyly makes it apparent (but only apparent) that he doubts it is possible. Still one wonders why he included something like this in first place, particularly when one of his seven basic propositions about food is "WE HAVE TO EAT TO LIVE" (his caps on page 9).
His discussion of the various cuisines and their characteristic foods is very interesting and just the sort of thing we need to focus on and appreciate. I have always thought of the Chinese and the French cuisines as monumental edifices of gastronomic art. In this book is an appreciation of the richness of Indian and Middle Eastern cuisines as well. His identification of a Mediterranean cuisine (he calls it a diet, pages 162-165) that includes Middle Eastern foods as well as Italian, Greek and others is particularly significant since that is the part of the world in which our first agriculture-based civilizations began.
In the usual Knopf style this is a beautifully edited and presented book. I didn't notice a single typo, although sweet potatoes are mistakenly identified as roots and not tubers on page 39. Bottom line: Weil is a very persuasive and readable man whose food preferences inspire confidence and imitation. [929 words; 4556 characters]
--Dennis Littrell, author of “The World Is Not as We Think It Is”