My recent book reading has been sporadic as I moved house in a complex fashion, spending a couple of weeks sheltering under other people's roofs. This provoked my interest in their bookshelves, as my own were unavailable and this little gem came from my son.
Part autobiography, part travelogue, it's a charming, captivating account of mid-century Tibet, a feudal kingdom in the Himalayas. It's also a chronicle of a vanishing culture as 70 years ago, the kingdom was invaded by the Chinese "Red Army". 1.2 million people are reported to have died through subsequent starvation and activities akin to genocide, out of a population of 3 million. A large number also fled. Most of the monasteries in this Buddhist kingdom were dismantled and destroyed and 2% of the capital, Lhasa, remains in its original state. If ever a commentator was required to chronicle the missing, then Heinrich Harrer fulfils that need.
A mountaineer and qualifed teacher, Austrian by birth, (who was in the first team that scaled the North Face of the Eiger), he found himself stranded in Karachi at the onset of WW2 and was then incarcerated in a number of POW camps in India, latterly ending up near the Himalayan border. Several escape attempts later, he managed to be part of a group that walked out of his camp in 1943 and fled North into the "Forbidden Land". This journey on foot with minimal resources, enduring frostbite and starvation, says as much for his fortitude and resilience (together with his companion's), as it does for the hospitality of the Himalayan tribes that assisted him along the way.
After negotiating with his hosts, he is finally allowed to make his way to the capital, Lhasa. Ill, starving and bedraggled, they end up taking shelter in an aristocrat's townhouse. There, in many ways, begins their full exposure to Tibetan culture. His companion, Aufschnaiter, is an agricultural engineer by training and they start to repay their hosts by building first fountains, then drainage and sanitary schemes. Finally, the author meets the 14th Dalai Lama, a teenager, and participates in his education. This is terminated by the Chinese invasion as they both escape South to India and the author returns to Austria. However, my edition of the book is prefaced by a foreword from this same Dalai Lama and it is clear that they continued correspondence throughout the author's life.
It's undoubtedly an excellent record of mid-century Tibetan culture as seen through European eyes. I was impressed by his detailed, but never boring, descriptions of the various rituals of his hosts, whether religious, or cultural. His abilities to speak the Tibetan language and his love for the mountains in the kingdom on "The Roof of the World" allowed him to have unparalleled opportunities to participate and record these authentic events. I only wished that some of his renowned photographs could have embellished the book further. The tragedy remains that this culture has been crushed by the occupying power of its larger neighbour and the Dalai Lama remains in exile, albeit with celebrity status and a superstar reputation being awarded the Nobel Peace Prize.
So, why not 5 stars? Possibly because I was left with the feeling that, despite the autobiographical nature of the book, I wanted to know so much more about the author. Why, despite being a member of the SS, had he not returned to Austria when it was at war? Why had he fled to a neutral country and effectively hid there as long as possible? He had left a wife, pregnant with their firstborn, in 1939 to go to his first Himalayan reconnaissance expedition. I realise that these were difficult, nay thorny, issues but they warranted an airing IMO.
Overall, though, a brilliant book, rated at 4.5*.