The Taste of Place: A Cultural Journey into Terroir (California Studies in Food and Culture)

California Studies in Food and Culture #20

by Amy B. Trubek

How and why do we think about food, taste it, and cook it? While much has been written about the concept of terroir as it relates to wine, in this vibrant, personal book, Amy Trubek, a pioneering voice in the new culinary revolution, expands the concept of terroir beyond wine and into cuisine and culture more broadly. Bringing together lively stories of people farming, cooking, and eating, she focuses on a series of examples ranging from shagbark hickory nuts in Wisconsin and maple syrup in Vermont to wines from northern California. She explains how the complex concepts of terroir and goût de terroir are instrumental to France's food and wine culture and then explores the multifaceted connections between taste and place in both cuisine and agriculture in the United States. How can we reclaim the taste of place, and what can it mean for us in a country where, on average, any food has traveled at least fifteen hundred miles from farm to table? Written for anyone interested in food, this book shows how the taste of place matters now, and how it can mediate between our local desires and our global reality to define and challenge American food practices.

Genres: Food, Anthropology, Agriculture, Food History, Nonfiction

318 pages, Paperback

First published April 5, 2008

Reviews

[Brett McLay · Rating 3 out of 5]

Preface + "Tasting Wisconsin" and the chapter on Vermont. ~ Introduction is a little rough (scattered connections) but continuity improves while describing local impressions.

[Hubert · Rating 4 out of 5]

Trubek discusses the state of thinking on terroir, the idea that food comes from a particular place and time, in both Europe and America. Taking as case studies wine in both France and California, organic markets in Wisconsin, and syrup and various food movements in Vermont, Trubek takes a strict anthropological approach to discuss the various meanings and implications of terroir, and questions our (broadly defined) assumptions about what terroir is. She nicely ties the concept of terroir to other cultural influences, including veiled nationalism and nostalgia. The writing is excellent and concise, though readers expecting more flair will be somewhat disappointed as she avoids journalistic or over(t)ly decorative descriptive impulses. As such, this text is a text to be read, respected, and digested for its superb methodological research-oriented approach.

[P.]

I can't rate this because it was basically a dissertation and, while interesting, I am a non-fiction baby and prefer something a little more narrative. Wah-wah, I know.I think if my job or livelihood was in any way related to the issue of terroir, I would be delighted to stick with it. But I found myself reading intriguing sentences like this: "A series of events, especially the phylloxera epidemic of the 1860s, which threatened vignerons and negociants alike, helped legitmate the idea that champagne as a defined region was fundamental to the identity of champagne as a beverage." that had no follow up. What's phylloxera! I want to know more! I am both out-of-my-depth and impatient!

[Luke Scarano · Rating 4 out of 5]

My first introduction to the idea of “taste of place,” or terroir, Trubek provides a very detailed explanation. It was particularly interesting to view terroir in the context of foods other than wine and learn about the protected designation of origin process. While not for casual reading, still interesting for those who love food!

[Stephanie · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fascinating book about how to define the idea of terroir that was a pleasure to read and has given me much to think. I recently had a conversation with one of the farmers at our farmers' market about the idea of "terroir" related to maple syrup, and I have become more aware of the degree to which wines are marketed with respect to place (vs. varietal or taste profile). My pleasure was marred only by pangs of jealousy b/c Trubek has had such an enchanted life, studying food in France and California, and developing her ideas in conjunction with chefs and farmers in VT. Die, Amy! but first write more b/c I'd love to read it!

[Alison · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is an interesting read if you have an interest in food, and like me, believe that food grown and consumed in a specific region has a specific taste. Growing up in California fresh fruits and vegetables have a specific taste associated with them in my mind, and Trubek delves deep into the soil, climate and culture that affect the taste of food. A good book for anyone that likes wine!

[Tara Brabazon · Rating 3 out of 5]

This is a strong book with a key argument and theme: what is the relationship between place and food? However this is not a celebration of 'taste.' Instead the book works hard to consider how a 'taste' is created. There is also a provocative analysis of how - and indeed if - French terroir can be applied beyond France.

[Megan · Rating 2 out of 5]

I just couldn't get through this.

[Rogue Reader · Rating 4 out of 5]

Beautiful coverage of the broad notion of terroir as to American foods and places. Loved Vermont maple syrup and Mondavi wine in France. Really well done