I apologize in advance for this, but I refuse not to say it:
My goodness, Jay Rayner certainly is full of himself!
OK, now that that's out of my system (sorry again), let's get to it. This book is pretty ridiculous, and I mean that outside of Rayner's acknowledgment of his and the premise's ridiculousness. Even his criticism of others' pomposity comes off as pompous. He relishes pork dishes to the point of fetishism, and despite his attempt to dismiss his Jewish heritage as only genetic, it comes off as unpleasantly desperate, like, See me the Jewish man eating all this pork? I'm so transgressive! Aren't you in awe of me and my boundary-crossing culinary daring! Oooooh! And it's just gross.
Further, his near-complete inability to find a satisfactory meal at any of the restaurants he patronizes is so ugly. Perhaps the menus are all as poor as he claims, but it comes off as a refusal to like anything. How is the reader supposed to enjoy a book when its author didn't enjoy the project he (VOLUNTARILY) undertook to write it? I am not about to write a book about going out drinking--I don't have the stomach for too much alcohol, and bar-hopping is pretty high on my list of least-favorite activities, even though I like to go out (occasionally) and I love a good drink or three. Being a (self-proclaimed!) gluttonous food critic who's won awards for his writing does not make an eating-round-the-moneyed-world book the ideal undertaking.
Two grains of salt with which to take my review: First, I practice a vegan lifestyle, and found all his asides about "wasting the animal" on a bad dish if not offensive, then at least enragingly hypocritical. Second, as a recovering bulimic, all the prideful talk of binging gave me quite a few uncomfortable moments, culminating in a how-dare-you-you-motherfucker when his physical resulted in a "perfectly healthy" diagnosis. Christ almighty what the fuck is that about? Inflicting all that suffering on animals for your diet, and your diet causes you not to suffer one bit? Life is one slap in the face after another.