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Andaza: A Memoir of Food, Flavour and Freedom in the Pakistani Kitchen
Andaza: 'the art of sensory cooking'
From a young age, food was Sumayya's portal to nurturing, love and self-expression. She spent the first eight years of her life at sea, with a father who captained merchant ships and a mother who preferred to cook for the family herself on a tiny electric stove in their cabin rather than eat in the officer's mess. When the family moved to Karachi, Sumayya grew up torn between the social expectations of life as a young girl in Pakistan, and the inspiration she felt in the kitchen, watching her mother, and her Nani Mummy (maternal grandmother) and Dadi's (paternal grandmother) confidence, intuition and effortless ability to build complex, layered flavours in their cooking.
This evocative and moving food memoir - which includes the most meaningful recipes of Sumayya's childhood - tells the story of how Sumayya's self-belief grew throughout her young life, allowing her to trust her instincts and find her own path between the expectations of following in her father's footsteps as a lawyer and the pressures of a Pakistani woman's presumed place in the household. Gradually, through the warmth of her family life, the meaning of 'andaza' comes to her: that the flavour and meaning of a recipe is not a list of measured ingredients, but a feeling in your hands, as you let the elements of a meal come together through instinct and experience.
From a young age, food was Sumayya's portal to nurturing, love and self-expression. She spent the first eight years of her life at sea, with a father who captained merchant ships and a mother who preferred to cook for the family herself on a tiny electric stove in their cabin rather than eat in the officer's mess. When the family moved to Karachi, Sumayya grew up torn between the social expectations of life as a young girl in Pakistan, and the inspiration she felt in the kitchen, watching her mother, and her Nani Mummy (maternal grandmother) and Dadi's (paternal grandmother) confidence, intuition and effortless ability to build complex, layered flavours in their cooking.
This evocative and moving food memoir - which includes the most meaningful recipes of Sumayya's childhood - tells the story of how Sumayya's self-belief grew throughout her young life, allowing her to trust her instincts and find her own path between the expectations of following in her father's footsteps as a lawyer and the pressures of a Pakistani woman's presumed place in the household. Gradually, through the warmth of her family life, the meaning of 'andaza' comes to her: that the flavour and meaning of a recipe is not a list of measured ingredients, but a feeling in your hands, as you let the elements of a meal come together through instinct and experience.
312 pages, Hardcover
Published May 9, 2023
9 people are currently reading
195 people want to read
About the author
Sumayya Usmani
4 books25 followersBorn and raised in Karachi, Pakistan, Sumayya Usmani is an internationally published food writer, author and cookery teacher, who is recognised by BBC Good Food as the UK’s ‘go-to’ expert for Pakistani cuisine.
Based in Glasgow and London, Sumayya is passionate about the rich culinary heritage of Pakistan, and her writing and teaching are devoted to sharing those distinct flavours and exploring the cultures and traditions that have influenced them.
Sumayya began her food writing career by writing recipes on her own website, as well as regularly contributing to food publications, while she practiced as a solicitor in London and Karachi.
Sumayya is a member of the Guild of Food Writers, and also a freelance writer, cookery book author and teacher, hosting contemporary and traditional Pakistani cookery classes at prestigious cook schools around the UK, including London’s Divertimenti, Jericho Kitchen in Oxford, Ashdown Manna in East Sussex, Demuths Cookery School in Bath and Tennent’s Training Academy in Glasgow.
(source)
Based in Glasgow and London, Sumayya is passionate about the rich culinary heritage of Pakistan, and her writing and teaching are devoted to sharing those distinct flavours and exploring the cultures and traditions that have influenced them.
Sumayya began her food writing career by writing recipes on her own website, as well as regularly contributing to food publications, while she practiced as a solicitor in London and Karachi.
Sumayya is a member of the Guild of Food Writers, and also a freelance writer, cookery book author and teacher, hosting contemporary and traditional Pakistani cookery classes at prestigious cook schools around the UK, including London’s Divertimenti, Jericho Kitchen in Oxford, Ashdown Manna in East Sussex, Demuths Cookery School in Bath and Tennent’s Training Academy in Glasgow.
(source)
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Displaying 1 - 13 of 13 reviews
March 31, 2023
In a Nutshell: A beautiful homage to childhood influences on our cooking, written in the form of a memoir cum cookbook. Contains plenty of visibly-yummy Pakistani recipes.
“Sumayya Usmani is an internationally published food writer, author and cookery teacher, who is recognised by BBC Good Food as the UK’s ‘go-to’ expert for Pakistani cuisine.”
Thus says the author’s bio on Goodreads. But I hadn’t heard of her at all!
If you scan through my bookshelves, whether actual (at home) or virtual (on Goodreads), you won’t find any cookbook. The reason is that I don’t like cooking. I cook to live, and not live to cook. I haven’t killed anyone yet with my attempts in the kitchen (and my kids love my cooking – Phew!), but I am not the kind to search for new recipes and experiment with offbeat dishes while cooking. As such, I was always a hundred per cent sure that I would *never* read & review a cookery book.
Why this change of mind then?
Just one reason. I couldn’t resist the title of this book - ‘Andaza’. It reminded me of my mum.
‘Andaza’ literally means ‘estimate.’ But the dictionary meaning doesn’t indicate how ubiquitous it is in most mother-daughter conversations about cooking. Whenever I wanted recipes from my mother (who is a stellar cook btw!), I never received any accurate measurements. All I got in lieu of quantities was, "Tujhya andaza-ant ghal!", which roughly translates to ‘Use your judgement to decide the quantity (of the spices.)’ Needless to say, the logical and ignoramus-cook side of me used to get very frustrated at this vague answer. However, today I realise how right she was. Cooking isn’t about the perfect quantity but precise estimates, no matter how oxymoronic that sounds. The best dishes always spring up when you use your andaza to get the balance of ingredients right.
Back to Sumayya Usmani then! Usmani is a lawyer-turned-writer-cum-cookery-teacher. Born and brought up in Pakistan to a privileged family, her atypical early years (spent aboard a merchant ship with her parents) and later childhood, teen and early adulthood years in Pakistan provide the foundation to this coming-of-age memoir.
Usmani describes cooking with andaza as “Sensory Cooking” - feeling the flavours with your fingers, your nose, and your tongue to cook a dish to perfection. I loved one of the statements made by her mother: “Recipes are stories, and ingredients are characters. You can make up your own story as you go along.” That’s the best description of andaza.
Usmani notes the influences of the women in her life – her grandmothers, her mom, aunts, and her ex-mother-in-law – on her own cooking. Her memories, especially about her Nani Mummy (maternal grandmother), her Dadi (paternal grandmother) and her mother, depict the traditional values of families, and the strong bond that is enhanced by sharing recipes and chores in the kitchen.
I relished the casual flow of the book. The writing is so conversational that it feels like you are seated in a cosy nook with the author while she is recounting her life story to you. Usmani is very upfront about her life choices, including the ones that didn’t turn out well. Sometimes, she sounds a bit defensive, but most of the memoir depicts a woman who knows herself and her abilities.
Another thing I loved was her honest portrayal of her life in Pakistan and of the country itself. Pakistan and India seem so inherently similar that I could picture every scene! Most of Usmani’s observations about Pakistan (whether of food or culture) can be applied to India as well. Her anecdotes about the weekly bazaars, the roadside stalls, the kulfiwala, the leery men, the inquisitive women, the struggles of being a modern woman in a conservative country – if ever anyone wants proof of how the people of India and Pakistan come from the same roots, this book has it in plenty!
At the same time, it must be noted that her life story isn’t to be taken as an indicator of typical Pakistani lifestyle. Usmani comes from a life of privilege, and she acknowledges it as well. There were many things available to her that would have been unthinkable for an average Pakistani (or Indian) child of that era. Think of this memoir as a representation of the upper-middle or lower-rich class of Pakistani citizens of the 1970s onwards.
Of course, this is also a cookbook, not just a memoir. There are plenty of traditional family recipes, some of which have been given a modern twist. Let me be honest - most of them intimidated me! If I see a recipe with more than 10 official steps, I give up even before trying it. 😁 At the same time, I did read through many of the recipes and loved how detailed and precise they were. Definitely not dominated by andaza! I am sure they will be of tremendous value to the right person who wants to try out Pakistani cuisine. I liked how every recipe had a photographic depiction of the dish, and also how some recipes were grouped by themes such as ‘comfort food’. Another point worth mentioning is that she provides the source of where the ingredients can be obtained, which will be helpful to readers who might want to try out the recipes but don’t stay in Pakistan or India. (South-Asian cuisine is not a matter of a couple of flavourings, after all! We have a whole array of spices!)
There are plenty of family photographs as well scattered through the chapters. However, I wish all of them had come with taglines. In some photos, it was tough to understand who the person was. The food photographs are stunning, no complaints about those.
On the whole, I enjoyed this journey through 'Andaza', as it provided me a wonderful insight about our neighbouring nation and how similar its people and its cooking are to ours. As the story of a woman who never gave up on her dreams despite some mistakes along the way, the memoir deserves a read.
Definitely recommended to anyone who wants to read a book steeped in culture and flavour, and try out yummy dishes from Pakistani cuisine.
Before I wind up, a shout-out to the cover artist – what a stunning cover and so apt for the writing!
4.25 stars.
My thanks to Murdoch Books and NetGalley for the DRC of “Andaza: A Memoir of Food, Flavour and Freedom in the Pakistani Kitchen”. This review is voluntary and contains my honest opinion about the book.
———————————————
Connect with me through:
My Blog | The StoryGraph | Instagram | Facebook | Twitter
“Sumayya Usmani is an internationally published food writer, author and cookery teacher, who is recognised by BBC Good Food as the UK’s ‘go-to’ expert for Pakistani cuisine.”
Thus says the author’s bio on Goodreads. But I hadn’t heard of her at all!
If you scan through my bookshelves, whether actual (at home) or virtual (on Goodreads), you won’t find any cookbook. The reason is that I don’t like cooking. I cook to live, and not live to cook. I haven’t killed anyone yet with my attempts in the kitchen (and my kids love my cooking – Phew!), but I am not the kind to search for new recipes and experiment with offbeat dishes while cooking. As such, I was always a hundred per cent sure that I would *never* read & review a cookery book.
Why this change of mind then?
Just one reason. I couldn’t resist the title of this book - ‘Andaza’. It reminded me of my mum.
‘Andaza’ literally means ‘estimate.’ But the dictionary meaning doesn’t indicate how ubiquitous it is in most mother-daughter conversations about cooking. Whenever I wanted recipes from my mother (who is a stellar cook btw!), I never received any accurate measurements. All I got in lieu of quantities was, "Tujhya andaza-ant ghal!", which roughly translates to ‘Use your judgement to decide the quantity (of the spices.)’ Needless to say, the logical and ignoramus-cook side of me used to get very frustrated at this vague answer. However, today I realise how right she was. Cooking isn’t about the perfect quantity but precise estimates, no matter how oxymoronic that sounds. The best dishes always spring up when you use your andaza to get the balance of ingredients right.
Back to Sumayya Usmani then! Usmani is a lawyer-turned-writer-cum-cookery-teacher. Born and brought up in Pakistan to a privileged family, her atypical early years (spent aboard a merchant ship with her parents) and later childhood, teen and early adulthood years in Pakistan provide the foundation to this coming-of-age memoir.
Usmani describes cooking with andaza as “Sensory Cooking” - feeling the flavours with your fingers, your nose, and your tongue to cook a dish to perfection. I loved one of the statements made by her mother: “Recipes are stories, and ingredients are characters. You can make up your own story as you go along.” That’s the best description of andaza.
Usmani notes the influences of the women in her life – her grandmothers, her mom, aunts, and her ex-mother-in-law – on her own cooking. Her memories, especially about her Nani Mummy (maternal grandmother), her Dadi (paternal grandmother) and her mother, depict the traditional values of families, and the strong bond that is enhanced by sharing recipes and chores in the kitchen.
I relished the casual flow of the book. The writing is so conversational that it feels like you are seated in a cosy nook with the author while she is recounting her life story to you. Usmani is very upfront about her life choices, including the ones that didn’t turn out well. Sometimes, she sounds a bit defensive, but most of the memoir depicts a woman who knows herself and her abilities.
Another thing I loved was her honest portrayal of her life in Pakistan and of the country itself. Pakistan and India seem so inherently similar that I could picture every scene! Most of Usmani’s observations about Pakistan (whether of food or culture) can be applied to India as well. Her anecdotes about the weekly bazaars, the roadside stalls, the kulfiwala, the leery men, the inquisitive women, the struggles of being a modern woman in a conservative country – if ever anyone wants proof of how the people of India and Pakistan come from the same roots, this book has it in plenty!
At the same time, it must be noted that her life story isn’t to be taken as an indicator of typical Pakistani lifestyle. Usmani comes from a life of privilege, and she acknowledges it as well. There were many things available to her that would have been unthinkable for an average Pakistani (or Indian) child of that era. Think of this memoir as a representation of the upper-middle or lower-rich class of Pakistani citizens of the 1970s onwards.
Of course, this is also a cookbook, not just a memoir. There are plenty of traditional family recipes, some of which have been given a modern twist. Let me be honest - most of them intimidated me! If I see a recipe with more than 10 official steps, I give up even before trying it. 😁 At the same time, I did read through many of the recipes and loved how detailed and precise they were. Definitely not dominated by andaza! I am sure they will be of tremendous value to the right person who wants to try out Pakistani cuisine. I liked how every recipe had a photographic depiction of the dish, and also how some recipes were grouped by themes such as ‘comfort food’. Another point worth mentioning is that she provides the source of where the ingredients can be obtained, which will be helpful to readers who might want to try out the recipes but don’t stay in Pakistan or India. (South-Asian cuisine is not a matter of a couple of flavourings, after all! We have a whole array of spices!)
There are plenty of family photographs as well scattered through the chapters. However, I wish all of them had come with taglines. In some photos, it was tough to understand who the person was. The food photographs are stunning, no complaints about those.
On the whole, I enjoyed this journey through 'Andaza', as it provided me a wonderful insight about our neighbouring nation and how similar its people and its cooking are to ours. As the story of a woman who never gave up on her dreams despite some mistakes along the way, the memoir deserves a read.
Definitely recommended to anyone who wants to read a book steeped in culture and flavour, and try out yummy dishes from Pakistani cuisine.
Before I wind up, a shout-out to the cover artist – what a stunning cover and so apt for the writing!
4.25 stars.
My thanks to Murdoch Books and NetGalley for the DRC of “Andaza: A Memoir of Food, Flavour and Freedom in the Pakistani Kitchen”. This review is voluntary and contains my honest opinion about the book.
———————————————
Connect with me through:
My Blog | The StoryGraph | Instagram | Facebook | Twitter
Read
October 23, 2023this is a great, mouthwatering memoir by Sumayya Usmani, that showcases the food culture of her homeland, Pakistan. Sumayya's parents traveled a lot due to the nature of her father's career, first in the Merchant Marines and then as a Master of Laws from the UK who practiced in Pakistan, and her memoir reflects the impact of a variety of food cultures with such storied histories and rich flavorful and aromatic delights, such as Iran, Egypt, and the UK. She also dwells on how her upbringing has impacted her views on the customs and culture of her homeland
April 24, 2023
I knew this was going to be something special just from looking at the cover, it didn't disappoint at all.
Sumayya takes us on a journey that's rich in food and steeped in culture.
She tells of her childhood, her parents and time spent with her beloved Nani Mummy, her being one of her biggest influences on her food journey.This was so relatable to me as my Grandmother was my favourite person ever too and her cooking was the best.
The recipes throughout the book sound absolutely delicious, infused with spices and love. Each recipe is accompanied by a photograph showing the dish in its glory, it made me so hungry!
There are so many dishes that I'm looking forward to trying, the Aubergine borani, the Keema flying saucers and Nani Mummy's preserved lemons for starters.
Andaza is glorious and I would highly recommend it to anyone looking to try new recipes.
Many thanks to Random Things Tours for my tour spot.
Rating ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Sumayya takes us on a journey that's rich in food and steeped in culture.
She tells of her childhood, her parents and time spent with her beloved Nani Mummy, her being one of her biggest influences on her food journey.This was so relatable to me as my Grandmother was my favourite person ever too and her cooking was the best.
The recipes throughout the book sound absolutely delicious, infused with spices and love. Each recipe is accompanied by a photograph showing the dish in its glory, it made me so hungry!
There are so many dishes that I'm looking forward to trying, the Aubergine borani, the Keema flying saucers and Nani Mummy's preserved lemons for starters.
Andaza is glorious and I would highly recommend it to anyone looking to try new recipes.
Many thanks to Random Things Tours for my tour spot.
Rating ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
April 18, 2023
'Early in my life I learn that recipes don't need to be written. Like storytelling, they guide you through an unfamiliar terrain - and, like all good stories, they evolve with each storyteller's instinct and imagination, and cease to exist if they aren't shared'
✨
‘The hope that lay ahead filled me with appreciation for the gifts I was given by the women in my family. I realised that I was a sum of all their parts, from my Dadi's free-spiritedness to Nani Mummy's nurturing, and my mother's ability to create a home anywhere’
Finally my copy of Andaza by @sumayyausmani is here. When we say that our food truly tells our story that is exactly what Andaza is. Sumayya takes us on a journey that is steeped in culture and flavour. It is a book to be read, savoured, and enjoyed. Also, what a gorgeous cover.
✨
‘The hope that lay ahead filled me with appreciation for the gifts I was given by the women in my family. I realised that I was a sum of all their parts, from my Dadi's free-spiritedness to Nani Mummy's nurturing, and my mother's ability to create a home anywhere’
Finally my copy of Andaza by @sumayyausmani is here. When we say that our food truly tells our story that is exactly what Andaza is. Sumayya takes us on a journey that is steeped in culture and flavour. It is a book to be read, savoured, and enjoyed. Also, what a gorgeous cover.
September 28, 2023
A beautiful memoir that comes with photos and recipes with glimpses of a Pakistan that has since faded into the sands of time. Sumayya Usmani depicts the hidden world of Pakistani women and their kitchens and their interpretations and reinterpretations of recipes, traditional, modern, western and fusion. I did spend five years of my life in Pakistan many moons ago, and the trip down memory lane with this tome reminded me of sil battas, Urdu Digests, ripping out recipes from Womens' Own Magazine (I found a few that I still have in the pages of a recipe book), Bundu Khan, PTV Serials and the like. I also felt sad for Sumayya's mum Kausar and the way the English women in the village they spent in during a one year visit to the UK acted over her sponge cake with cream icing. She would have got heaps of praise mind you if they were a Southern European group of women instead. But recommended over all.
April 14, 2023
This was an absolute delightful book to review. Alongside the incredible memoir of Sumayya's life from the memories of cooking with her mother on the ship her father was Captain on through to shopping and cooking with Nani Mummy and the sad loss of loved ones as we progress through life, this is a book to be read, savoured, and enjoyed.
The recipes that Sumayya has included within the book all hold important memories for her and link her to special times in her life and after tasting some of the wonderful combinations of ingredients that she , and her relatives, use it is easy to see why.
I decided the best way of sampling the recipes was to invite wonderful friends around for a banquet and cook !!!!! Then wait for the responses.
The recipes that Sumayya has included within the book all hold important memories for her and link her to special times in her life and after tasting some of the wonderful combinations of ingredients that she , and her relatives, use it is easy to see why.
I decided the best way of sampling the recipes was to invite wonderful friends around for a banquet and cook !!!!! Then wait for the responses.
April 16, 2023
This is such a beautiful book. It’s filled with personal connections, stories to link the recipes and lovely photos of the food. I thoroughly enjoyed reading this book and trying the recipes. I’ll be trying even more, over the coming weeks, and sharing photos of my makes.
The details, in the stories and personal connections, really add something special to this book. It’s not just a cookbook, it’s a tale, a journey through the life of a family, which is wonderful.
Overall, I highly recommend this book. It is fun to read and brilliant to try the recipes alongside the stories.
The details, in the stories and personal connections, really add something special to this book. It’s not just a cookbook, it’s a tale, a journey through the life of a family, which is wonderful.
Overall, I highly recommend this book. It is fun to read and brilliant to try the recipes alongside the stories.
July 19, 2023
I picked up this book thinking it was a Pakistani cookbook. It's more of a memoir with a few recipes peppered through. I really enjoyed the memoir and reading about the authors life. I haven't tried any of the recipes yet though they sound quite delicious. I wish the book continued on after she left Pakistan and went to school. I would have left to see how she felt after having gone to law school after being so reluctant to and I would have loved to hear how she eventually made the move to quit and become a food writer.
August 22, 2025
It’s a really really beautiful book that speaks with truly visceral feeling about family and love and loss- and of course, cooking and the soul and care than goes into feeding your family. I loved how the author returned again and again to her family and inherited skills and knowledge to steady her through the course of the memoir.
Her conflicts about marriage vs career, tradition and family vs autonomy and independence, and grief and joy were beautifully written
Her conflicts about marriage vs career, tradition and family vs autonomy and independence, and grief and joy were beautifully written
October 27, 2023
This was an absolutely beautiful memoir and cookbook of learning to live, love, and cook. Living around the world, born to Pakistani parents, falling in love, learning to say no, finding happiness, and cooking, cooking, cooking. Really lovely wonderful story; enjoyed greatly.
Read
August 6, 2023Excited to try the recipes
September 24, 2025
A lovely book to look at but as a memoir it's not very exciting. I also didn't find that the recipes made me want to go into the kitchen.
April 19, 2023
"I began to realise that we shared a bond of flavour; that food was our way of expressing love and nurturing each other - and that maybe there really was magic in my hands, a power that had carried through generations."
I read Andaza within a day and at the end, I just wanted to give Sumayya Usmani a great big hug. This is just not a cookbook; deeply personal and moving, Ms. Usmani has told her story in a beautiful way.
I have been following Sumayya Usmani on social media for a number of years and have seen just how her culinary journey has progressed. The term, 'Andaza' drew me in as that is a philosophy I too abide by when I cook.
The writer reminisces her early childhood days spent aboard a merchant navy ship, spending a year in the UK as a child and then finally settling in Karachi, Pakistan.
"The hope that lay ahead filled me with appreciation for the gifts I was given by the women in my family. I realised that I was a sum of all their parts, from my Dadi's free-spiritedness to Nani Mummy's nurturing, and my mother's ability to create a home anywhere."
Usmani's passion for creating depths of flavour to food was surely instilled by the women in her life. Her life with her maternal grandmother - Nani Mummy, deservedly forms a huge chunk of the memoir. Usmani learnt about contrasting and complementary flavours from both her grandmothers. With her aunt, Guddo Phuppho, Usmani was able to indulge in street food.
The writer talks about her adolescence, life as a student and falling in love for the first time. She goes on to openly and honestly talk about the breakdown of her first marriage to a renowned radio D.J.
With memories, come recipes and each recipe has a story. Ms. Usmani has shared and recreated a beautiful treasure trove of recipes. The photography for each dish is visually stunning. These are recipes that I will most definitely be trying.
My thanks to NetGalley and Murdoch Books for providing me with a this book in exchange for an honest review.
I read Andaza within a day and at the end, I just wanted to give Sumayya Usmani a great big hug. This is just not a cookbook; deeply personal and moving, Ms. Usmani has told her story in a beautiful way.
I have been following Sumayya Usmani on social media for a number of years and have seen just how her culinary journey has progressed. The term, 'Andaza' drew me in as that is a philosophy I too abide by when I cook.
The writer reminisces her early childhood days spent aboard a merchant navy ship, spending a year in the UK as a child and then finally settling in Karachi, Pakistan.
"The hope that lay ahead filled me with appreciation for the gifts I was given by the women in my family. I realised that I was a sum of all their parts, from my Dadi's free-spiritedness to Nani Mummy's nurturing, and my mother's ability to create a home anywhere."
Usmani's passion for creating depths of flavour to food was surely instilled by the women in her life. Her life with her maternal grandmother - Nani Mummy, deservedly forms a huge chunk of the memoir. Usmani learnt about contrasting and complementary flavours from both her grandmothers. With her aunt, Guddo Phuppho, Usmani was able to indulge in street food.
The writer talks about her adolescence, life as a student and falling in love for the first time. She goes on to openly and honestly talk about the breakdown of her first marriage to a renowned radio D.J.
With memories, come recipes and each recipe has a story. Ms. Usmani has shared and recreated a beautiful treasure trove of recipes. The photography for each dish is visually stunning. These are recipes that I will most definitely be trying.
My thanks to NetGalley and Murdoch Books for providing me with a this book in exchange for an honest review.
Displaying 1 - 13 of 13 reviews