I've been to Iran. Twice. That seems to surprise people. Maybe not as much as when they learn I've also been to Libya, but still pretty surprised.
I'd go again in a heartbeat (but maybe not until this Covid-19 crisis is way past). My most recent trip was in 2006 and it was on an organised tour that lasted 2 weeks and took in many of the absolutely astonishing places and attraction that this pariah state has to offer. When I got home, I put 'Searching for Hassan' on my Amazon wishlist, bought a second-hand copy a few years later and then didn't get around to reading it. Seeing an updated version available as an Audiobook through my library's free audiobook service, I snapped it up.
Terry Ward, his three brothers and his parents lived in Iran back in the 1970s. His dad was something in oil - as indeed, most ex-pat workers would have been at that time. The Ward family lived in Tehran but saw relatively little of the country. Their cook and general factotum was a chap called Hassan and he, along with his wife Fatimeh, became very much part of the Ward family. Two decades after the family had to leave Iran, the boys - who are now men with children of their own - and their parents decide to take a trip to Iran to see all the things they missed back when they lived there, and to try to find Hassan and his family.
They went in 1998, at one of the relatively relaxed points of post-Revolutionary Iran. Hope was high that President Khatami would introduce a lot of changes to reduce the excesses of the Khomeini era, and somehow the family found a way to get visas for a visit. Roughly half the book is a travelogue - you can be forgiven for wondering when they'll actually START searching for Hassan as they trot around the attractions of the pre-Islamic and pre-Revolutionary eras. As somebody who has been to most of the places they visited, I absolutely recognised the authenticity of Ward's observations. I also very much appreciated that he didn't simply rehash old tour-guides as some other, lesser travel books I've read recently do. He captures the essence of the place and the fabulously curious and friendly people.
I have to be fair and say that the response to their tourist activities may not be the same if you've not been to Iran. I totally accept that not everybody will love the descriptions.
The second half of the book is about finding Hassan and reforming the most wonderful relationships with him and his family. I saw a review that described this book as one of the few 'happy ending' books about Iran and it really is a very happy story. The search was rather less complicated than the title might suggest, but the outcome was fantastic.
As the audiobook was only released this year, it includes a lot of material and updates that weren't in the original paperback that I have. Some of the updates are fascinating. As the kind of person who always wonders "But what happened next?" when the credits roll at the end of the film, I wanted to know and was happy to hear about follow-up visits. Having found Hassan and his family, the Wards were not about to lose them again. I also found it fascinating when we learn that Hassan's story has prompted lots of travellers to go searching for him themselves after reading Ward's book. It's absolutely delightful.
For everybody who ever thought that Iran is a gloomy country full of serious people living under strict control and restrictions and on standby to have another war at any moment, this book is recommended reading though you'll need to open your mind first. For those who've been to Iran, it's a great way to remind yourself of just how fabulous a place it is and for those who want to go, it's an inspiration.