Something Old, Something New: Oysters Rockefeller, Walnut Souffle, and Other Classic Recipes Revisited

by Tamar Adler, Mimi Sheraton (Foreword), Mindy Dubin (Illustrations)

The award-winning, bestselling author of An Everlasting Meal “revitalizes classics and long-forgotten dishes, bringing them into this century with verve and ease” (Bon Appetit) in this “lovely and literary” (Vogue.com) cookbook.

Many dishes that once excited our palates—like oysters Rockefeller, steak Diane, cheese and walnut soufflés—have disappeared from our tables and, in some cases, from our memories. Creating a unique culinary history, Tamar Adler, a Vogue and New York Times writer and Chez Panisse alum, has collected more than a hundred recipes from old cookbooks and menus and enlivened, updated, and simplified them.

Adler’s approach to these dishes involves ample use of acid and herbs, pared down techniques, and contemporary ways of serving. Seasonal menus, wine pairings suggested by sommelier Juliette Pope, gorgeous watercolor drawings by artist Mindy Dubin, and a foreword by influential food critic Mimi Sheraton add to this “personal, nostalgic journey…as much about the writing as it is about the cooking” (The New York Times Book Review). Adler has created a unique culinary history, filled with delicious recipes and smart, witty prose. It is destined to become a modern classic.

Genres: Cookbooks, Food, Nonfiction, Food Writing, Cooking, Food and Drink, Adult

288 pages, Paperback

Published August 6, 2019

Reviews

[Judy · Rating 3 out of 5]

This book rehashes a great many classic, upscale recipes and provides some history of the dishes which was interesting. Most of the recipes are things I wouldn't ever cook and many I wouldn't even want to eat. I like a lot of different foods, but have to admit I'm not adventurous when it comes to some of these offerings. However, it was interesting to read about the various type of dishes - many of which were served up during the 1950s - 1960s as very special treats. I did notice there were a lot of recipes that were French in origin. The book was separated into sections about appetizers, soups, etc. and provided menus with wine pairings - which was a nice touch.

Unfortunately, this book wasn't for me, but I'm sure some people would truly enjoy it. It was just a little too pretentious for me. I liked the illustrations and thought they were well done, but throughout I wished for some photos of the prepared recipes.

Thanks to Tamar Adler and Scribner through Netgalley for an advance copy.

[Gina Mahalek · Rating 4 out of 5]

I am a big fan of Tamar Adler, and regularly consult her previous book, AN EVERLASTING MEAL. Reading Adler's work is like having a witty, worldly, inquisitive, and generous friend--one who is willing to invite you in to her kitchen for a wide-ranging and informative chat and who will then proceed to spoil you with her cooking.

SOMETHING OLD, SOMETHING NEW is at once a personal cookbook, with references to Adler’s mother, brother, husband, and son and nods to their contributions and influences; a nostalgic remembrance of the recipes and wisdom of old culinary friends like James Beard, Julia Child, M.F.K. Fisher, Pierre Franey, and Craig Claiborne; and an introduction to authorities of the past through rare recipe collections and cookery books that Adler has tracked down and whose gems she highlights and reinterprets for modern cooks here.

This work may be read purely for the pleasure of Adler’s high-spirited, exuberant, and elegant prose. Readers will be inspired to explore the simpler recipes and techniques right away (such as those in the vegetable section)—and may also flag more complicated recipes for future exploration and possible preparation. And armchair cooks will enjoy following Adler’s careful instructions for making French Creamed Oysters, Caviar Leeks Pots De Crème, or Grilled Quails on Canapés.

The featured menus are very helpful. Wine pairings suggested by sommelier Juliette Pope may be difficult to source precisely, but the description for the type of wine that would complement each menu will be helpful in describing the desired characteristics to your local wine consultant.

Mindy Dubin’s watercolor illustrations add a dash of color and whimsy and enhance the book’s appeal as a gift book.

Thank you to NetGalley and to Scribner for allowing me early access to this lovely book in exchange for an honest review.

[Cassandra · Rating 4 out of 5]

Made me feel fancy just reading it.

[Lisa Ks Book Reviews · Rating 4 out of 5]

Not exactly what I was expecting, yet still very informative. This may just be the cookbook many have been waiting for.

[Melissa Dee · Rating 5 out of 5]

I love reading Tamar Adler. Her ingredients have personalities, and her recipes are as much an exercise in nostalgia as in nourishment. I’m reminded of the food writing of MFK Fisher or Elizabeth David. She follows in the footsteps of those greats, and carefully acknowledges debts to them, and to other food greats like Frank Stitt, Craig Claiborne, John Thorne and the chefs at Cibreo (and thats only in the first 50 pages.)

Finding myself on page 32 , with no oysters in sight, and a pound of hamburger in my refrigerator, I jumped pages, and did a quick search for “hamburger”. I am not disappointed in the hamburger (er steak haché) with porcini butter and salsa verde that I found.

The invocation of the triad of Elizabeth David, Edna Lewis and Roy Andries de Groot as an introduction to “Limas and Eggplants à la crème is reason enough to cook the dish. Adler knows her antecedents, and treats them with respect.

[Juli Anna · Rating 3 out of 5]

This is more like a book of essays with recipes included than it is a cookbook, but it was still fun to peruse. Adler's authorial voice was a touch highfalutin for me, but I still enjoyed reading this.

[Shauna · Rating 3 out of 5]

While I LOVED An Everlasting Meal, I found this to be not so much to my liking. Tamar Adler still shares personal stories to make the book feel like chatting with a friend, however I found the recipes that were contained in this book less approachable. They felt too sophisticated for me. I was a little surprised due to her simplistic treatment of food in the book I read before.

[Beth · Rating 2 out of 5]

This is an odd "cookbook" - full of rambling, somewhat pretentious, extremely purple prose, in more quantity than actual recipes. And, for recipes that are supposed to be "modernized" and/or "simplified," there sure is a lot of extremely rich (butter, eggs, mayonnaise, animal fats, etc.) or pretty "luxurious" (caviar, pate, oysters ingredients.

If you're SUPER into the history of "fancy" food from days gone by, or if things like caviar pie sound appetizing to you, you'll probably like this book way more than I did.

*Thanks to NetGalley for the ARC, provided by the author and/or the publisher in exchange for an honest review.

[Savannah · Rating 4 out of 5]

I've been a part of the growing appreciation for Tamar Adler's impeccable first book - An Everlasting Meal - for several years now, including at a time when securing the elusive ten-year-old hardcovers felt impossible enough to consider "misplacing" the only one I could find (the solo copy on offer from our local library system. I have a paperback copy now, though, so don't worry for my immortal soul). The near cult fanaticism many feel for that installment in her canon of work made me giddy enough to pick up this next title shortly after its paperback release, then preserve it for the occasion where I could fully read it at my leisure, with a bundle of page flags nearby.

The "Includes a Recipe" square on my Summer Book Bingo card certainly helped promote this decision.

SOSN carries the same meditative, elegant voice present in AEM, the same blissful confidence that you, too, can cook like this, punctuated by flashes of Adler's characteristic humor. The topics, however, couldn't be further from each other: whereas Everlasting's gastronomic perspectives make you feel like you will never waste a scrap of food ever again, SOSN dives into antiquated gustatory novelties with gusto. I have no room to talk - I literally have a monthly cooking newsletter dedicated to exorcising trapped recipes from decades-old cookbooks, myself - but seeing her glom onto recipes for aspic, souffles, and seafood served with a variety of surnames attached, did feel a little detached from her previous theses.

What seemed unequivocally true, regardless, is that Adler seems to be having an excellent time while doing it. It doesn't quite live up to my levels of appreciation for its predecessor, but then again, very few selections of Food Writing do. I have a favorite within M.F.K. Fisher's ranks, as well, and the comparison feels worthy of merit.

Three and a half stars.

[Jessica · Rating 5 out of 5]

I own hundreds of cookbooks (it might be an issue) but Adler's are the only ones I keep in the kitchen. All of her books are informative and inspirational and this one is no exception. Her ability to hone a recipe is apparent as she takes classic recipes - some of which are rarely used anymore - and modernizes them for today's cook and eater. She also takes the time to provide "no recipe" recipe approaches to some, noting where changes can be made and where the cook is free to express themselves (which sometimes just means being able to use whatever is already in the fridge.) Adler's writing is engaging and evocative. She never assumes the sometimes pretentious voice that other chefs can be guilty of and instead goes out of her way to make the reader comfortable with both ingredient and technique. I've honestly learned more about cooking from Adler than from the entirety of the rest of my cookbooks - she's a natural teacher and a fantastic writer.

[Laura · Rating 3 out of 5]

I read this not to cook from it but to read about food and learn what was in various old recipes. I love to read old cookbooks and wanted to see her updates. They look good; it's just that except for some of the salads, this isn't how I would cook. But from a food writing perspective, this is a really enjoyable history of how we eat. She includes menus with wine recommendations and there are lots of serving ideas.

I suspect the author knows that many will be checking this out for its literary value, not just the recipes. The illustrations are very sweet; however, I thought that actual photos of some of the food (maybe what's on the menus) would have been a great addition.

Adler is becoming one of my favorite foodies; I enjoyed this book but wasn't quite sure what to make of it.

[(a)lyss(a) · Rating 3 out of 5]

There are no photos of the finished recipes in this cook book, which is always a disappointment for me.

The recipes, despite being modernized, still seem difficult and time consuming. While I have never tried to make oysters, or hosted the kind of dinner this book suggests, some of the recipes are intriguing. But I don't think there's anything in this book I would attempt without having ample time and patience. The writing comes across less as telling a story or sharing history and more as wanting to show you how much they know.

This could be a good fit for someone who is an adventurous cook with a soft spot for older Americana recipes.

[Laura · Rating 3 out of 5]

Tamar Adler’s “An Everlasting Meal” was and is one of my favorite books. I love her writing style and her philosophy of simple cooking. This book fell flat for me, however. The old dishes she reinvents really don’t sound that good to me, even reinvented, and often there are either exotic or too-many ingredients. I was completely with her in the desserts chapter, but the earlier chapters are just too much fuss.

[Ottilee B. · Rating 2 out of 5]

I was really looking forward to receiving this book but I'm not as impressed as (maybe) I should be. I will never make the majority of these dishes the way Ms Adler describes: too much cream, too much sugar and the butter content..! Wow! This needs a warning label: "reading causes angina". Her addition of anecdotes and stories and information was interesting to read but the recipes were nowhere near as healthy ('new') as I originally thought. A big disappointment to me.

[Nick Klagge · Rating 3 out of 5]

I enjoyed reading this out loud with Elise (though reading a recipe aloud is a bit of an odd experience!). While I always appreciate Tamar Adler, though, this book didn't inspire the way that "An Everlasting Meal" did. That's a pretty high bar, though, seeing as how AEM is probably my (and definitely Elise's) favorite cookbook of all time!

[Caroline · Rating 2 out of 5]

Was hoping to like this since I was so into her 1st book. This one was less original more about old time recipes that frankly, I don't cook in that nineteen forgotten style. I tried the Green Goddess recipe and it came out heavy on the oil, perhaps I didn't emulsify it properly. Would pass on this one. More interesting from a historical view but not a cookbook I'd use often.

[Jennifer · Rating 2 out of 5]

While the recipes are well-written and many sound good, overall this book was a disappointment. Instead of being witty and sophisticated, the prose just comes off as pretentious and overwrought, which surprised me as that seems odd for a writer known for being practical when it comes to avoiding food waste.

[Erin · Rating 4 out of 5]

I do love Tamar Adler. While at times verbose, always clever. And the end, when she talks about dessert and drinks, well.... This book made me want to eat clams. I don't even like clams. But Adler makes me think that I might like clams. But I certainly want to make the vin d'orange and the plum cake. So there we are.

[Candace W · Rating 3 out of 5]

Little bit disappointed with this one. I am a terrible cook, so when I follow a recipe, I like having pictures to guide me. I need to know what something is supposed to look like. This book doesn't have that. It had drawings of food.

[Megan · Rating 3 out of 5]

I like the intro and her attitude about bringing the older dishes into the modern world by adjusting them as needed so we can actually make them. I was mostly interested in the desserts though cause some of the meals just were my thing.

[Rebecca Tredway · Rating 3 out of 5]

Interesting premise, though harder to read than other books similar to this one. Still, I enjoyed skimming and taking mental notes. Adler is an amazing person and it's a pleasure to read her thoughts.

[Liquidlasagna · Rating 4 out of 5]

Shrimp Pate
Oysters Rockerfeller
Filet Mignon on Toast
Foie Gras Sandwiches
Clam Chowder
Green Goddess Salad
Crab Louis Dasiell
Fried Potatoes
Herbed Crepes with Mushrooms
Hazelnut-Cardamom Blancmange
Chilled Flower Blossom Pudding
Orange Blossom Meringues
Crepes Suzette

[Laurie · Rating 4 out of 5]

Lovely stories of reconstructed recipes from the last 100 years. I don’t think I shall ever cook them and it seemed that fennel appeared all too frequently. There is nothing simple about any of the menus, but they were fun to read.

[Alex · Rating 4 out of 5]

this book took me years to read, but i truly savoured it. it’s waxing on about people who have waxed on about food through the ages, interspersed with recipes I’d mostly never make. i’ve tried a few and they are all very rich…

[Katy · Rating 3 out of 5]

An interesting read, so well written and researched. Not a lot of recipes that gathered my interest to actually prepare, but it was a fun read.

[Sharen · Rating 4 out of 5]

Delightful writing! A lovely history of famous recipes and culinary styles, a social history as well as a cookbook. Very enjoyable browsing...

[Melissa · Rating 2 out of 5]

I don’t think I shall ever cook a single dish from this book.

[Barred Owl Books · Rating 2 out of 5]

A little too old fashioned and heavy - too much meat and dairy. Not enough new.

[Eleanor Hoppe · Rating 5 out of 5]

Interesting concept, lively writing style, beautiful illustrations

[Joanna · Rating 4 out of 5]

Tamar Adler is the heir to Robert Farrar Capon, minus the spiritual insight. But she has a literary, witty, and keenly observed style like his. I'll read anything she writes.