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344 pages, Hardcover
First published January 1, 2004
The mention of the history of beer always brings a laugh or at the very least a snicker. The history of beer for most people is not a serious topic of study. It seems to them frivolous and hardly worth more than a few diverting minutes of anyone’s time. Beer, after all, is a drink for leisure, for young people, generally men, and associated with sports and student life. That perception of beer is a case of historical myopia, of an inability of many people at the beginning of the twenty-first century to conceive of a world different from their own. The prevailing presentism makes it difficult for many to comprehend a world where beer was a necessity, a part of everyday life, a drink for everyone of any age or status, and a beverage for all times of the day from breakfast to dinner and into the evening.Unger covers the development of beer mainly around the time of professionalisation, after a brief overview of the ancient history of beer (various intoxicating beverages were known to the ancients, but malted beer seems to originate in Sumer). In this period brewing went from women's work to a male industry. The great innovation, the fulcrum of the book, was the switch to hops as a bittering agent instead of gruit. Also the German Reinheitsgebot, which, uh, indicates that the history of beer isn't edge-of-your-seat stuff. There might be some fun stories here, but Unger is mainly interested in the economics: a lot about taxation, guilds, trade and consumption statistics, and regulation.
