(Nearly 3.5) An engaging account of the author’s family project to cut out all added sugar for the year of 2011. It reminded me most of Barbara Kingsolver’s Animal, Vegetable, Miracle (from the multiple family narrators down to the poultry processing and a trip to Italy) and Gretchen Rubin’s happiness books. Like Julie and Julia, this book originated as a one-year foodie blog, and Schaub shares some of Julie Powell’s conversational wit. I think this is an important book, but possibly limited in its reach: for some it will be preaching to the choir; for others, cutting out sugar will seem like an impossible goal, and therefore not even worth attempting.
Obesity is undeniably an international epidemic, especially notable in the U.S. It is one of the main symptoms of metabolic syndrome (along with one or more of the following: diabetes, cardiovascular disease, or nonalcoholic fatty liver disease). And the culprit, Schaub believes, is sugar. Specifically fructose, for which the body has no use and therefore no receptors – apart from in the liver, where it makes fatty acids and uric acid (a chief cause of hypertension). It just sits around, contributing to body fat and manifesting itself as metabolic syndrome. So it’s not only rotting teeth that you need to worry about when it comes to sugar.
I was aware of many of the statistics Schaub references here, but it still shocked me to learn that Americans consume 63 pounds of high-fructose corn syrup a year, and just drinking a soda a day can add on 15.5 pounds of extra fat annually. Schaub’s two gurus are Dr. Robert Lustig, a YouTube sensation with his presentation “Sugar: The Bitter Truth,” and David Gillespie, Australian author of Sweet Poison. Essentially, these two argue that sugar is a toxin, one we’ve been pumping into our bodies in increasing quantities for decades now. Schaub’s writing can sometimes feel a bit too much like hero worship; she seems to believe that Lustig and Gillespie bear the most important message since Jesus.
I might have preferred it if her no-sugar quest had been based on her own research, or even just a hunch, rather than slavish devotion to two self-proclaimed diet experts (okay, make that one – Lustig is actually a pediatric endocrinologist, but Gillespie is self-taught, with a law and IT background; he banks on his personal story of losing 90 pounds by giving up sugar). [Besides, in this age of dietary fads, after sugar it will just be something else that everyone tells us to avoid: salt (also in processed foods), nitrates (in smoked meats), red meat (associated with bowel cancer), and so on. Instead of becoming fanatical about one thing, seek balance and moderation in all things. Michael Pollan’s books give a great model of how to do this. For instance, he suggests you avoid Snacks, Seconds and Sweets – except on days beginning with S. In other words, keep the weekends special by linking them with pleasurable food events.]
Schaub and family chiefly cut out sugar by avoiding most processed supermarket foods. Finding sugar-free ketchup, mayonnaise, bread, salad dressing, and chicken broth was nigh on impossible, so she either made her own or they did without. Eating out was hardly worth it; they had to (most apologetically) give every waitperson the third degree before ordering. Vacations and holidays often posed the biggest challenge. Reflecting after a somewhat indulgent trip to Italy, she asks herself, “Had we been good? Or not so good? Both, I imagine. In fact, I suppose the answer was that we were human.”
Halloween and Christmas were predictably harrowing. “Unfortunately, our culture doesn’t seem to remember much about how you celebrate things without buying a bunch of unnecessary stuff and without consuming a bunch of unnecessary sugar.” (Have a think about how often you proffer sugary treats as a sign of love.) Apart from one pre-agreed dessert per month, usually to celebrate a birthday or holiday, the family’s sweet snacks were moderately appetizing combinations of bananas, dates, apricots and coconut – “My tummy was crying out for something satisfying that didn’t taste like it was plucked from Carmen Miranda’s hat.” That is, until Schaub discovered powdered dextrose. Substituted for sugar in any dessert recipe, it produced mildly sweet and pretty darn tasty results.
But can any ordinary person really be expected to go online and order vats of the stuff, as Schaub did? I’d rather drastically reduce my reliance on cane sugar, which at least feels like a natural substance, than replace it with something made in a lab. Dextrose costs about three times as much as regular sugar, too. The truth is that eating this way might be an ideal, but it takes a lot of both time and money; that might be okay for Schaub in her Vermont idyll, but is this really practical for everyone? Shouldn’t we be putting pressure on the food industry to do the work of cutting added sugar for us? (But how?!)
Now, my husband and I do much better than most when it comes to healthy eating. We are almost exclusively vegetarian (many of our meals are incidentally vegan), and we buy very few processed foods. My husband bakes pretty much all our own bread and snacks. But there’s the rub: we both have quite a sweet tooth. On days when we don’t have a home-baked treat, we’ll at least have chocolate. I can’t really imagine a day without a sugary snack to accompany my tea. So I did find this book convicting, but I’m not sure I can see it actually changing my behavior. Maybe I needed some more concrete examples of how to actually live without sweets (besides having hummus for an afternoon snack), rather than excuses for the Schaub family’s various accidents, cheats, and substitutions.
It’s impressive that Schaub got her whole family, especially her kids, to go along with the no-sugar project. And for the most part they didn’t complain too much; like kids do, they simply adjusted to their new normal. I would have liked to hear more from her husband, Steve, who only gets two short entries at the beginning and end of the book; on the other hand, I didn’t really find her precocious 11-year-old’s diary entries particularly enlightening.
The most interesting thing I learned from this book is that when you cut out sugar your palate actually changes. Desserts now seem over-sweet to Schaub: one or two bites is nice, but any more than that and her tongue feels coated and she gets an instant headache. This to me is a hopeful sign that cutting down on sugar could gradually become easier, and eventually would be a permanent lifestyle change.