Ham Biscuits, Hostess Gowns, and Other Southern Specialties: An Entertaining Life

by Julia Reed

Julia Reed spends a lot of time thinking about ham biscuits.  And cornbread and casseroles and the surprisingly modern ease of donning a hostess gown for one’s own party. In Ham Biscuits, Hostess Gowns and Other Southern Specialties Julia Reed collects her thoughts on good cooking and the lessons of gracious entertaining that pass from one woman to another, and takes the reader on a lively and very personal tour of the culinary—and social—South. In essays on everything from pork chops to the perfect picnic Julia Reed revels in the simple good qualities that make the Southern table the best possible place to pull up a chair. She expounds on: the Southerner’s relentless penchant for using gelatin; why most things taste better with homemade mayonnaise; the necessity of a holiday milk punch (and, possibly, a Santa hat); how best to “cook for compliments” (at least one squash casserole and Lee Bailey’s barbequed veal are key). She provides recipes for some of the region’s best-loved dishes (cheese straws, red velvet cake, breakfast shrimp), along with her own variations on the classics, including Fried Oysters Rockefeller Salad and Creole Crab Soup. She also elaborates on worthwhile information every hostess would do well to learn: the icebreaking qualities of a Ramos gin fizz and a hot crabmeat canapé, for example; the “wow factor” intrinsic in a platter of devilled eggs or a giant silver punchbowl filled with scoops of homemade ice cream. There is guidance on everything from the best possible way to “eat” your luck on New Year’s Day to composing a menu in honor of someone you love. Grace and hilarity under gastronomic pressure suffuse these essays, along with remembrances of her gastronomic heroes including Richard Olney, Mary Cantwell, and M.F.K. Fisher. Ham Biscuits, Hostess Gowns and Other Southern Specialties is another great book about the South from Julia Reed, a writer who makes her experiences in—and out of—the kitchen a joy to read.

Genres: Cookbooks, Nonfiction, Food, Memoir, Southern, Essays, Food and Drink

249 pages, Hardcover

First published July 8, 2008

About the author

Julia Reed was born in Greenville, Mississippi, in 1960. She went to the Madeira School for Girls at age sixteen near McLean, Virginia. She began taking classes at Georgetown University but then transferred to and graduated from American University.

She started working at Newsweek magazine as an intern in 1977 and went on to become Contributing Editor and columnist. She was contributing editor and senior writer at Vogue for twenty years. She is a Contributing Editor at Elle Magazine and at Garden and Gun Magazine (for which she also writes a column). She also writes articles for the New York Times, Conde Nast Traveler, and the Wall Street Journal.

Well known as a humorist and a “master of the art of eating, drinking, and making merry,” according to her publisher, her books include One Man’s Folly: The Exceptional Houses of Furlow Gatewood (2014), But Mama Always Put Vodka in Her Sangria! Adventures in Eating, Drinking, and Making Merry (Apr 30, 2013), New Orleans, New Elegance (2012) with Kerri McCaffety, Ham Biscuits, Hostess Gowns, and Other Southern Specialties: An Entertaining Life (with Recipes) (Apr 28, 2009), The House on First Street: My New Orleans Story (2008) and Queen of the Turtle Derby and Other Southern Phenomena (2005)

Reviews

[Andie · Rating 3 out of 5]

I first encountered Julia Reed when she was on CNN in 2005 commenting on Hurricane Katrina and its effect on her adopted home of New Orleans. Since then I've seen her popping up everywhere from Vogue and Garden and Gun magazine to Anthony Bourdain's travel/food show on television. In this book she reminisces about growing up in the Mississippi Delta and learning how to entertain from her mother and her friends in a highly Ya-Yas Sisterhood manner.

The recipes are mostly old Southern stand-bys (or variations of the same) and the reminiscences are mostly amusing if a little precious. Ms. Reed tries to pretend that she did not come from a rarified background, but she isn't fooling anyone.

[Linda · Rating 4 out of 5]

OK - what is the idea of a cookbook with no index of recipes in the back? Very bad oversight on everyone's part.

And the fact that Reed knows everyone can get a little grating, but still a great summer read: breezy party stories and food for every occasion. I've already made the potato salad twice. Frankly how could I not be hooked on a book with a chapter titled "Friendly Persuasion" that was about Lee Bailey AND Mary Cantwell (Nan are you reading this??)

I bought Bailey's "Country Weekends" with my first unemployment check when I lost my job during the 1983 recession. I spent the summer dreaming about food and what I would cook and who I would entertain when I got back on my feet again. Not quite in that same boat this summer but close enough that reading about Bailey may be enough to make it all turn out right in the end.

[Pamela · Rating 5 out of 5]

I judge whether a book is really good or not by whether I hate for the book to end. I hated that this one ended. This is the most fun read I have had about food in a long time -- perhaps because I'm from the South and identify with Julia Reed. These essays on food, accompanied by recipes, are delightful, and though I haven't tried the recipes yet, but they all seem so simple, I'm eager to try them. By the end of the book, Reed, who is a journalist in New York, seems like a friend.

[Ava Catherine · Rating 4 out of 5]

Julia Reed makes me laugh and inspires me to get in the kitchen and rustle up something delicious using one of her recipes. I always love her books because her essays make me feel like I am visiting with a girlfriend.

[Lisa Stanley · Rating 3 out of 5]

All in all, I enjoyed this light read about southern traditions, friends, and recipes. I dog-eared many of the recipes to try. Toward the end I skipped through some of the name-dropping I mean narrative and went straight for the recipes :)

[Maureen Flatley · Rating 5 out of 5]

Love Julia Reed.....reading her is like visiting a girl friend. This is a sweet little book about Southern cooking filled with funny narrative and great recipes.

[Karen · Rating 4 out of 5]

A delightful collection of essays and recipes for cooks fascinated by the traditions of Southern ladies. Loved it and look forward to trying out recipes for so many familiar treats.

[Donna · Rating 5 out of 5]

Are you Southern? Do you cook? Add this book to your collection, and pass the ham biscuits, please.

[Susan Freeman · Rating 5 out of 5]

Really enjoyed this fun book full of tips, tidbits of Southern life and lots of great recipes.

[Betsy Aiello · Rating 5 out of 5]

I enjoyed reading this. Loved the recipes. Loved the parties. I would read a couple of chapters and put it down for a day or two.

[nikki Accomazzo · Rating 3 out of 5]

really i would say 2.8. not as captivating as Queen of the Turtle Derby (still good though) however, there are some fun recipes in here i want to try and this book made me want to throw a dinner party!

[Katie Strickland · Rating 5 out of 5]

Makes me want to live in Louisiana and host glamorous and fabulous parties

[Sandy · Rating 4 out of 5]

I read this at the same time I read Naturally Thin, and I learned that I am way more southern cook than skinny girl. It was a funny book, well written, and loaded with old Southern entertaining recipes. I remembered how much I liked pimento cheese after reading it and made a pound of it. Every recipe looks good and although none are anything less than southern fattening, they are mouth watering. I recommend reading it along side the skinny girl one to keep your balance.

[Mary · Rating 5 out of 5]

Oh, Julia. You've cheered me out of yet another funk. The harsh world beats one down so that they forget the real joys of cornichons, YSL, well, anything that gives one that little whoosh of excitement- simple or sophisticated. I have never wanted to cook such a high percentage of the recipes in any book. Julia is a dazzling inspiration- a fun girl with a brainy inclination and tip-top taste. I feel like she's the favorite cousin I would wish into existence- thank heaven she already does.

[Kate Spears · Rating 3 out of 5]

I enjoyed this quick, light-hearted read. Towards the end, I found myself skipping her narrative to get straight to the recipes, but it was still a fun book. Some of the recipes are things I would never make (caviar, souffles, etc.) but others were really regular things that sounded good. I am definitely copying down a few of those!

[Marianne Hetzer Hawn · Rating 4 out of 5]

I love reading books about food -- cookbooks, mysteries, memoirs -- whatever! And I feel an affinity for "Southern" food and traditions which I grew up with even though my grandmother was from a long line of PA/OH/WV stock. Go figure.

[Margaret · Rating 3 out of 5]

Thoughts on good cooking and gracious entertaining from Reed, a contributing editor at Vogue and Newsweek. A pleasure to read--with recipes to boot.

[Jane Riley]

Suzanne loaned me this book. It is full of fabulous recipes and looks great. I'm trying to diet so putting it down for now! Making me hungry!

[Sarah · Rating 4 out of 5]

I can't wait to try some of these recipes.

[christine barrila · Rating 3 out of 5]

very entertaining book
i've been reading and savoring for months
thank you stacie

[Barbara · Rating 2 out of 5]

Lots of good recipes if you're a pork eater...

[Robert · Rating 3 out of 5]

A collection of NY Times columns with recipes, several of which I have added to my repertoire (including Lemonade Souffle).

[Alice Dilbeck · Rating 5 out of 5]

Wonderful mix of essays and recipes. hat could be better? Reed is a great essayist, and I so want to attend one of her parties one day.

[Karennelso · Rating 4 out of 5]

No index. That sucks! The essays kept me laughing,and I made the mayonnaise today. Can't wait to try the other recipes.

[Amy Koch · Rating 4 out of 5]

good recipes and nice stories to go with them. Ms. Reed has led an interesting life as well.

[Allison]

Love

[Rachel · Rating 4 out of 5]

A collection of essays on southern food and quirks with several recipes per chapter.

[False · Rating 3 out of 5]

I love the author's writing style. Her books are always a combination of memoir and recipes. I'm planning on saving all of the recipes to try whenever I entertain.

[Robin · Rating 3 out of 5]

It helps to have some appreciation and familiarity of Southern culture and all of its innate quirks and hilarity. I have read several of her books and they are great fun.

[Marne - Reader By the Water · Rating 2 out of 5]

Started out strong, but after a while I recognized it as a cookbook with essays instead of a book of essays with recipes. I was disappointed, but plan to check out another book of hers soon.