I would have given this book ten stars if that were possible.
Tim Cope, an Australian, took on an adventure that many have wanted but few have dared. He crossed the Eurasian Steppes, from Mongolia to Hungary, 6,000 miles, alone on horseback to gain a true understanding of the life of the nomads who once dominated this land. The book is the story of his journey, the people he met and the obstacles he encountered as well as the history of Genghis Khan and his descendants and their amazing feats riding across the steppes, conquering all they met and ruling in unexpected ways. When Cope began he was a young man who had been on a horse once and was generally afraid of them. At the end, he describes a glorious ride bareback. His journey took over three years.
This trip required detailed planning, from working with a vet to prepare for the kinds of problems he would face with three horses traveling long distances, establishing contacts in each country to help him with issues as they arose, getting visas to cross borders with and without animals, mapping the route, and choosing gear to support the journey. He met nomadic peoples all across the land, some who still lived the life of their ancestors and others who, when touched deeply by Tim's journey, brought out an old saddle or some other remnant of an ancestor's now forgotten way of life.
Along the route through open grassy steppes, over mountains, through deserts and along rivers and inland seas, the reader meets nomads in one area packing up a yurt or herding sheep, and a few miles on he meets others who have been forcibly removed from their way of life to manage collective farms and industries. He meets some who survived the Stalin deportations and exile to Siberia to return later to nothing, their homes and land having been taken by those who remained. The remnants of the Soviet Union's remaking of the culture and landscape are dismally depressing, and it is little wonder that alcohol plays a major role in getting through the day. The damage done to the landscape in some parts is stunning and disturbing. The incredible stupidity behind massive collectivization of farm and industry is so obvious as to wonder why anyone ever thought it would work.
Mongolia, Kazakhstan, Southern Russia, and Ukraine are undergoing tremendous change right now, and in even a few years this journey would be quite different if even possible. The author passed through Crimea and the area in Ukraine that is now caught in a military conflict, and when he passed through parts of Mongolia and Kazakhstan he noted the regions that have recently been identified to hold valuable ore deposits. Development can't be far away.
The nomads carry with them a way of life that is gentle with the land and animals, and relies on a web of community reinforced by strict rules of hospitality, among others. The wonder is the number of strangers who took the author in, helped him correct mistakes and false notions, and guided him on his way. People took care of his horses, fed him and housed him, and some traveled miles with him to ensure he got onto the right track, literally. Without the help of these men and women (and almost all were men in some parts) guiding him across the steppes, he would not have made it.
The author takes a break from his journey when his father dies unexpectedly, and his mourning over his death is part of the narrative. Cope is the oldest in his family, and very close to his father, who taught him to love the outdoors. Cope's grief adds a poignancy to the loss of the nomadic way of life he sees all around him as he travels farther west.
Through it all, the author is blessed with hardy animals able to tolerate temperatures of 40 degrees below zero, and 100-degree heat. The three horses, two especially, and a dog given by a young disabled boy, become the author's family. He is also blessed with enormous good luck.