Colour me absolutely bloody astonished: an official module that actually makes things easy for a DM. We've come a long way since the mess of Curse of Strahd, that's for sure. This book is written in easy to understand sections, all of which make it clear how people and things and places connect to other people and things and places. The story tracker is not a huge innovation really, but the book saying, "hey, this is going to be important later on, make a note," in the context of previous puzzle-box plots, feels like a revelation. There's helpful roleplay notes for all major NPCs, as well as ideas for how to vary encounters to taste. It's all arranged to assist and make the whole experience of running the adventure as smooth as possible.
This would all be for nothing if the actual content wasn't any good. Fortunately, pretty much every encounter displays what I'll call a sort of energetic inventiveness, taking advantage of the Feywild setting to throw all kinds of delightful nonsense at the wall. Snail races! A talking flower in love with a bee! Frogs plotting coups! A hot air balloon made of storms! I could go on, but it's best you discover it for yourself. This is a level of creativity that ought to be standard in the published material; the Feywild is obviously more out there than the material realm, but it's not difficult to inject wonder and surprise and weirdness into reality; this book definitely shows how boring the sodding Sword Coast is.
Additionally, every encounter has been explicitly written to be capable of being resolved without combat. This was touted prior to release and seems to mostly be true; the Jabberwock is a particularly dangerous exception. In the entire first chapter (probably a couple of sessions) there's no reason at all to roll initiative unless your players are really belligerently violent. This approach obviously isn't for everyone (my group, currently smug about never starting fights, only finishing them, would love it, I think), but players interested in something beyond the dungeon crawl hack and slash will find a lot of fun to be had here.
Here's my one caveat: this is a lot of RP. A question often asked about the official modules is whether they're good for a new DM. The answer here is an emphatic no, unless you've got a very strong grounding in character work, improv, voices, that sort of thing. I'd love to run this, but I honestly think it's beyond my current abilities. New players, though, could do this, absolutely, and experienced ones too might relish the chance to think creatively about problem-solving, and enjoy building characters not optimised for dishing out the maximum amount of damage possible.
All in all, one of the best adventures released for 5th edition, making the third of what I've just now decided to call my holy trinity of adventures, alongside Ghosts of Saltmarsh and Tomb of Annihilation.