How heat works to cook food, how proteins and carbohydrates and fats are affected by heat, acid, sugar, salt, etc. Why you shouldn't store powdered spices for months altogether, and why Coke is absolutely the wrong choice to counteract a massive dose of chillies. And much more.
In the first few chapters of Masala Lab, Krish Ashok focuses on the physics, chemistry and some of the biology that goes into the ingredients, utensils, processes and techniques of the average Indian kitchen. He examines common flavours and what they consist of, how they work, and so on. In the last section of the book, Ashok suggests algorithms to make individualized rice, bread, gravy, chutney/raita and salad dishes, based on several different regional cuisines.
The best thing about Ashok's writing is that he is good at explaining science in layman's terms. He knows how much explanation is needed, and how much would be too much: he strikes the balance well. The many illustrations to explain concepts are a bonus. That said, while the writing tries to be witty, it does go overboard at times and becomes irritating.
Earlier this year, I had read Harold McGee's definitive tome on food science, On Food and Cooking. Having read that, I was a little sceptical if Ashok's book, only about a quarter of the length of McGee's, would be as impactful. While the books do cover some of the same ground, their goals are separate. McGee sets out to cover food science in its entirety (he even examines, for each ingredient group, nutritive values, history, manufacturing, spoilage and contamination); he is thorough. Ashok's book, on the other hand, has a relatively narrow focus: just a few major Indian cuisines, and just enough knowledge imparted to help an Indian home cook understand the how, why, what and when of Indian food.
That said, I was not really the target audience for this book. I have been cooking for the past thirty years and more; I studied hotel management, so do have some food production training. And, given that I cook three meals a day without any domestic help, I simply don't have the time to do any of the experiments Ashok suggests. What's more, I realize a lot of what the 'average Indian' seems to do—pressure cook by the ‘whistle system’; pressure-cook rice, mostly cook Indian food, adore chillies, etc—is not me. At all.
But yes, I did learn some things that I will be implementing in my cooking. And I can imagine that anybody who likes cooking but is worried about following recipes, or is new to cooking, might benefit a good deal from this book.