There is no real reason to read another wine book, but I am glad that I gave in and spent some time with Rajat Parr and Jordan Mackay.
The authors have a way of educating while challenging and entertaining: Here are three quotes from their discussion of the white wines of the Loire valley:
"Sancerre is the knee-jerk selection of people who don’t bother to engage with wine. It’s the same as saying, “I’ll have a Bud” or “Give me a gin and tonic” without bothering to look at a menu."
"QUESTION OF TASTE What are the differences between the tastes of Sancerre from limestone, silex, and Kimmeridgian marl?"
"The question is not just which soil type defines a vineyard, but how deep that soil is before the tips of the vines make their way into the tuffeau underneath. In general, heavier clay returns heavier, rounder wines with more fruit. A preponderance of clay and aubuis atop the tuffeau is what gives Vouvray its famous weight. It’s the presence of limestone in the vicinity of the vines’ roots, François Chidaine tells us, that slows Vouvray’s maturation of the grapes and allows vignerons to take them further in terms of richness."
The previous is characteristic of how the Atlas of Taste takes us around European vineyards. My father enjoyed German Riesling wines and that was the start of my enjoyment of them. But I found ways of honing that interest in this book. Take these observations for example:
"The path from sweet to very dry has not been without its stumbles. In their rush to return to dry wines, many producers forgot why sweetness was ever left in wines to begin with: to balance Riesling’s incredible acidity. The first several years of widespread dryness brought wines that were often undrinkably austere and acidic. Over time, German producers learned how to deal with that acidity. They’ve also learned that their regions and terroir have something to say. Dry wines are more natural fits in warmer places like the Rheingau, Baden, and Pfalz. In the cool Mosel, having a little more residual sugar to balance the elevated acidity makes sense."
"But the Trockenwelle has more than anything been a celebration and showcase for the brilliance of German winegrowing today. As famed producer Johannes Leitz tells us, “To make a dry Riesling is much more difficult than a sweet one. Much more. I always call dry wine ‘naked.’ Sugar provides a very nice cover to mask flaws and deficiencies in a wine.”"
When you decide that it is worth cultivating grapes on very steep slopes there are challenges and consequences: “(J)ust a few feet from a stone ledge overlooking a vertiginous free fall to the river over 650 feet below. Some parts of this vineyard reach a slope of 86 degrees, and to even approach the edge, with crumbly, slippery slate beneath your feet…”
In electronic form, I would want to carry this book with me while visiting some of the areas and specific vineyards cited. Others have pointed out one of the greatest shortcomings of this book: It is an atlas without maps. That’s not a deal-breaker for me, but if there is ever a second edition, I hope that this will be remedied. 4.5*