Wine and War: The French, the Nazis, and the Battle for France's Greatest Treasure

by Don Kladstrup, Petie Kladstrup

An alternate cover edition of this ISBN can be found here.

The remarkable untold story of France's courageous, clever vintners who protected and rescued the country's most treasured commodity from German plunder during World War II.

"To be a Frenchman means to fight for your country and its wine."
-Claude Terrail, owner, Restaurant La Tour d'Argent

In 1940, France fell to the Nazis and almost immediately the German army began a campaign of pillaging one of the assets the French hold most dear: their wine. Like others in the French Resistance, winemakers mobilized to oppose their occupiers, but the tale of their extraordinary efforts has remained largely unknown-until now. This is the thrilling and harrowing story of the French wine producers who undertook ingenious, daring measures to save their cherished crops and bottles as the Germans closed in on them. Wine and War illuminates a compelling, little-known chapter of history, and stands as a tribute to extraordinary individuals who waged a battle that, in a very real way, saved the spirit of France.

Genres: History, Nonfiction, Wine, France, World War II, Food, War

290 pages, Paperback

First published May 15, 2001

Reviews

[Hannah Greendale (Hello, Bookworm) · Rating 3 out of 5]

Click here to watch a video review of this book on my channel, From Beginning to Bookend.



A poorly organized tribute to French winemakers who risked their lives to save their bottled wine and beloved crops during World War II.

[JD · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great book taking a different look at World War 2 with French wine and the vignerons who made it at the center of the story. Through wine the author looks at all aspects of what France went through during the war, its fall, the resistance, collaboration and its liberation. He focuses mainly on a vigneron from each of France's main wine making regions and what they went though in the war and all the stories vary and each brings something special to this book.

I appreciated this book a lot as I have lived in the Loire Valley and have travelled quite a bit throughout the French countryside where the people are real. The way they put one over the Germans and saved their wine is a story of daring and a tribute to the spirit of the French. Great read and highly recommended to lovers of France and wine, and a great addition to any World War 2 bookshelf.

[zed · Rating 3 out of 5]

Wine and War is a very easy read book in a fairly informal way that was for this reviewer is a little too less than academic in presentation, a style that I prefer when reading history. There is a great book out there on this subject in my opinion and someone such as Lizzie Collingham who wrote an exceptional book called The taste of War would have been ideal. The authors were of a journalistic background and it showed. The coverage was based mainly on the reminiscing of events of various and famous wine families, that unfortunately lacked a seamlessness in delivery that had me scurrying to look up the index as to where these people had been previously mentioned. This is not usually a problem for me, but the authors seemed to chop the stories told around a little too haphazardly.

Be that as it may, there is a lot to learn. That the Nazi’s placed expert bureaucrat’s called Weinführers into the various appellations to supervise the purchasing of France's great wines for transport back to Germany was a new one for me. Some were very good in their dealings with the French wine industry, others less so. That the US and British Intelligence tracked the enemy troop strength via shipment of wine back to Germany I had not previously known. Dietrich Von Choltitz’s decision to not lay waste to Paris was made after a conversation with Pierre Taittinger I had no previous memory of reading.

Being a breezy anecdotal book it also had some moments of humour. The authors quote Wynford Vaughn-Thomas from a book called How I Liberated Burgundy. The French Military gave an unnamed US Colonel through Vaughn-Thomas a gift of fine wines from about 20 vineyards.
Vaughan-Thomas was quoted from his book as follows………


‘These are the greatest wines of France. Guard them with care; rest them; then make sure they are room temperature before they are served.’
“Don’t worry,’ replied the American. ‘The doc knows all about this Frog liquor, and we’ll invite the French over to drink it.’
The Americans held a lavish reception; trumpets were sounded and a column of waiters entered, bearing the precious burgundy on silver trays. But to his horror, Vaughan-Thomas saw that the wines were gently bubbling in the bottles. ‘We’re in luck,’ whispered an American colonel, ‘the doc’s hotted up the stuff with medicinal alcohol.’
“The French were aghast. All eyes turned to General de Monsabert, he had led them, through North Africa and Italy, but this was the moment of crisis. He stood up, fixed his eyes on his staff and ordered them to take up their glasses.
‘To our comrades in arms, les braves Americans,’ he declared, before draining his glass to the last drop. Then in a low voice that only his close neighbours could hear, he murmured: ‘Liberation, liberation, what crimes have been committed in thy name!’” Indeed!

Maybe not my type of presentation, but I do recommend this to anyone that has an interest in the subject.

[Joe · Rating 5 out of 5]

I love history books that approach a large topic, such as the Depression, or the American Revolution, or, in this case World War II, from a very specific point of view. That's what this book does. The French wine industry, long renowned for its outstanding beverages, also played a significant part in the economic and social climate of the war. Books like this, books with a very specific focus, are the best way to learn about history. You'll get more from a book like this than you will just about any survey work.

[Shane · Rating 3 out of 5]

The concept of this book is original and interesting, and is what initially got me reading it. It tells the story of various French winemakers and associated individuals as they struggled with German occupation through WWII. It's short (250 pages), easy to read, and generally interesting to anyone who enjoys wine, French culture, or wants to read an interesting take on WWII history.

While generally entertaining and somewhat engrossing, the biggest issue I had was the choppy storytelling. The authors clearly were able to collect a large amount of information from the individuals they spoke to, but aren't able to weave it cleanly together. The shifts between similar experiences of completely separate people were frequently abrupt and sometimes confusing. The individuals whose stories were told would pop up from time to time, but it was never very easy to remember who they were and what their earlier story was.

The last third or so of the book progresses much more cleanly, and the story of the French POWs throwing a wine bash, the French finding the wine in Hitler's bunker, and the trial of one of the biggest wine merchants of the time flow much more neatly and are good reads.

I would recommend the book to anyone to whom the topic sounds interesting, but be ready to be frustrated with the first half or so.

[Otis Chandler · Rating 3 out of 5]

Fascinating history of how WWII affected the wineries of France, and vice versa. Helpful to understand some of the names of wineries that were popular back in the 30's and 40's too.

I hadn't fully appreciated that while the US and Allies were landing in Normandy, there was a parallel invasion at Nice that went north up the Rhone valley. The French that were part of that invasion made sure to direct all battles to be on "vineyards of inferior quality" and not on the high quality vineyards, which are largely west of the Rhone.

Great news, mon colonel, we have found the weak point in the German defenses. Every one is on a vineyard of inferior quality."

Apparently when the Allies finally cracked open Hitler's private house, his wine cellar had 500K wines from all over France, including many of the best wines from the best years. The national treasure of France...

"But the peasants who worked the vines believed there was a special relationship between war and grapes. They had always said that the Good Lord sends a poor wine crop when war starts and a fine, festive one to mark its end. And they were right. 1939, the year World War II began, was a horrendous vintage, whereas 1945, l’année de la victoire (the year of the victory), was one of the best ever recorded."

[Eli - Bookworm & Vine · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great storytelling!

[Elizabeth K. · Rating 3 out of 5]

When I first read reviews of this, there was an awful lot of gushing about how magnificent it was that the French had doggedly withheld much of their best wines from the Germans during the occupation, often by hiding it in cellars and secret rooms, and as much as I like wine, I couldn't help but note that perhaps people who had the wherewithal to hide stuff from the Germans might have focused their energies on hiding other things as well. My interest was caught enough, though, that I picked this up when I had the chance. I realized even at the time that I was being a bit unfair and snarky, and now I think the reviews were a bit unfair to this book by focusing so much on the wine. This is a collection of personal stories about the French wine makers and their experiences during Vichy, and many of them are simply remarkable, such as Jean Huet's (Clos du Bourg) time as a POW, Bernard de Nonancourt (Laurent-Perrier) joining the Resistance, and the Miailhe family (Pichon-Lalande) indeed harboring Jewish families in a hidden annex. And for wine-lovers, there are still plenty of anecdotes about French wine culture. It's a very patriotic book, from reading it one would get the impression that every man, woman and child in France was actively and cheerfully involved in sabotaging the Reich -- it's a little light on the complexity and ambiguity of the occupied France.

Grade: B+
Recommended: This is really a tribute book, it's not too heavy on the social analysis, but even so, it's a frisky read. People who like wine, have visited French wine country, or are interested in WWII or French history would most likely enjoy this as light, inspirational reading. You'll certainly be inspired to seek out some good wine.
2008/6

[max · Rating 2 out of 5]

It's hard to understand how important the wine is to the French; perhaps the best analogy would be how important sport is to us Americans. With too few male sluggers to form a baseball league while liberating the French, we pinch-hit the ladies. This book covers how the winemakers of France covered their cherished fields during far greater deprivations.

The challenge for amateur historians and husband and wife team Don and Petie Kladstrup is how to balance the routine horror of Vichy France, with its deportations; shallow graves; shattered families; and, inevitably, its defaced chateaus and incinerated vineyards; with what is essentially details and trivia of a national pastime. While they do a good job culling from their interviews, much of text is clearly secondary source, their emotional tone often off cue, and the language flat even describing the wine itself.

Still, just as poetry became indispensable to resistance Poles, the French drew more than mere moral support from some of their most powerful luxury-goods producers. Wine caves became great places to hide guns and fugitives. Allies could drop supplies into vast vine fields. And best of all, Nazis could be softened, and even somewhat civilized, by the prestige of great wine and the distinction of being able to say one recognizes and appreciates it.

Finally, the Kladstrups' Germans seem unable to decide whether to raid and plunder, confirming the French view of them as brutes, or maintain a a kind of museum of taste where they could convince their subjects that the Aryans came equipped not only with big muscles, but uber noses, too.

[Beth Cato · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is the epitome of a modern, awesome history book: it takes on an unusual angle, the role of wine and winemakers in World War II, and tells a tale of resistance and endurance in an engaging, enlightening manner. Wine is France. The Germans knew it. Claiming French wine was part of the overall subjugation and brutalization of the French people.

I was awed at the ways that winemakers fought back, from smuggling people in wine barrels (no easy lid removals, either--barrels had to be completely deconstructed), to hiding Jewish friends and downed American pilots in rooms next door to German soldiers, to trying to engineer copper sulfate for wine production with Germans all around--and dogfights overhead. Wow. This book is a fast, easy read, but one with a lot of depth.

[Daniel Simmons · Rating 3 out of 5]

A diverting, anecdote-rich account of wine protecting and selling (and swilling, and squirreling away, and replacing cleverly with plonk) during the Second World War.

[Luuk · Rating 4 out of 5]

WW II french winemakers perspective, very interesting! My next bordeaux will taste a little different after this one.

[C G · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fascinating read! This book gives you a unique perspective of WWII from the wine makers experience. I've read many books on WWII, but none had drawn me in so quickly. The rich history of wine making in France was greatly impacted by the war and this book gives you a glimpse into the flight to preserve culture during the war. The book takes you into each of France's main wine making regions and explores the different experiences of the wine makers. I would love to read more books like this.

[Jess · Rating 3 out of 5]

Three+ stars. If you don't like wine -- especially French wine -- you will not enjoy this book. This is far more about French wine than anything else. (And how the French make the best wine.) I like French wine and champagne and enjoy reading WW2-era books, so I did enjoy this book.

[Steven Bailey · Rating 4 out of 5]

Interesting viewpoint from a point in history where most is surrounded by the war itself. Give you some insight in the daily lives of people.

[Matt Haeske · Rating 3 out of 5]

Interesting but not riveting. The winemaking stuff was not as interesting as learning more about life in Nazi occupied France. Worth reading if you’re a WWII buff, maybe a skip if you’re looking for a great book about wine

[Scott Mathieson · Rating 5 out of 5]

Entertaining and educational.

[Rebecca · Rating 3 out of 5]

Manfredi picked this book off the shelf for me, and I agreed to read it after seeing an entertainingly snobbish sentence (kind of implying that among Hitler's many crimes one of them was that he didn't like wine) on the first page I opened.

The book pretty much continued in this vein. It was basically a less historically researched (the author definitely has a wine not history background) and more pretentious "The Monuments Men." That being said, Wine and War had a charm and lots of human interest stories of its own, plus explored a corner of the war of which I knew little.

[Jerry B · Rating 3 out of 5]

We have probably read 700-800 books over the past decade, maybe seven or eight of which have been non-fiction! But knowing we were wine aficionados, a friend lent us this historical account of how the French vintners struggled to save their wineries, their precious wine cellars, and of course, even their lives for that matter during the German occupation of France during WWII. The book reflects extensive research, and much of the anecdotal narrative recounts stories garnered by the authors direct from the principals or their families. While most of the town and winery names were hard to keep straight, the charming tales were fun to read, educational, and reflective of the courage of the people who barely survived this horrible time. The Nazis of course had no compulsions about stealing literally millions of bottles of wine and champagne, and would plow through the vineyards with their tanks or whatever with abandon. One of the most clever tactics of many of the wineries was to construct permanent walls or seal off caves containing their most precious stock, including bottles already decades in repose.

An extensive glossary, notes section, bibliography, and index might well serve the serious reader. For us, the book did a fine job of illuminating the partial survival of undoubtedly France’s most valuable resource, in an entertaining style despite the horrors of the time in history under consideration.

[Tracy Sherman · Rating 5 out of 5]

Reading this book was much like drinking a nice glass of wine, there is a lot that I enjoyed and there's a lot that I didn't understand, wine names and place names but nothing that interfered with the pleasure of the book.
I always admired wine geeks, seem like something that
every adult should be aware of. Unfortunately it has always escaped me, but a friend of mine at my bookclub is one and I can see that kind of enjoyment it gives him.
By a kind of weird twist of fate of whoever watches over these things, Bacchus I guess, or is it Jim Backus, I started to become a bit of a whiskey geek. This is also due to my book club where, after the main body of the meeting our host pulled out some whisky. I've been hooked ever since.
I have to say I enjoyed this book much more then the whiskey book I read over the summer, and felt that a lot of the sensibility of wine drinkers can easily translate to whiskey drinkers.
Maybe it was the combination of the personal stories along with the very deep French love of wine that touched me in this book. I can't think of anything in my adopted country of Japan or even in my home country of America that equates with the French feeling for their wine. Maybe guns in America?
I posted a quote from this book and an old college friend, a self-confessed wine geek said he has thoroughly enjoyed this book.
And I have to say the same for myself if only I had a glass or two of wine with me as I was reading it.

[Ann · Rating 3 out of 5]

Just when you thought all the WWII books had been written - along comes a new angle. I thought this was a fascinating look at the futility of the Hitler regime - exemplified by the systematic looting of French wine to stockpile his Eagle's Nest..despite the fact that Hitler did not even like wine. Or the 3 year effort to tunnel up a mountain for an elevator shaft to carry the wine to the Eagle's nest - later rendered useless by retreating Nazis. The Nazis come off as a group of boorish thugs in this book, which is no doubt pretty accurate. (Of course, most accounts of the French Revolution or the persecution of the Huguenots portray the mass of French people as a group of bloodthirsty thugs, so you could argue that thuggishness all depends on your point of view).
At any rate, interesting to read of the wily stratagems the French used to foil the Nazis. More complicated is the issue of collaborators - the French who appeared to cooperate with the Nazis in order to keep their wine businesses running. After the war the alleged collaborators went to great lengths to justify and launder their activities - some with more success than others. Like most wars - this one was a tragedy and I was left with the sense of what a huge black waste the Nazis made.

[Meghan · Rating 3 out of 5]

Disappointing book, especially as I had been looking forward to reading it for awhile; it does, after all, combine two things I love – wine and war . . .I mean wine and France. The book does include some truly interesting anecdotes about wine and winemakers in France during the Second World War. Otherwise I found the writing style annoying - especially the bland declarative sentences which serve as an opening to each chapter, and the cheesy made-up/dramatized dialogue, which didn't ring true (although I suppose it may have been - yikes). Also ended up skimming the last 100 pages - something I rarely do. Overall, more anecdotal than historic fact (not necessarily a bad thing, just don't expect anything too rigorous), and don't look too closely at the map of Occupied France on the inside cover if historic/geographic errors bother you . . .

[Paul · Rating 3 out of 5]

This book is a fairly standard World War II home-front narrative, focused on the view from wine-producing regions of France. As can be expected from a wine-focused narrative, it had just enough hints of enophile nonsense in its boquet (see what I did there?) to put me off quite a bit, but there were some redeeming anecdotes in it.

It did somewhat remind me of a better book, A Foreign Fiekd by Ben Macintyre, which is the story of stranded Americans hiding from the Germans during World War I. It has a similar rustic, dangerous quality to it, if you liked this book, you'll probably like that one, and if you didn't like this book, you might still like the other.

[Kismet · Rating 4 out of 5]

This nonfiction book tells how French winemakers protected their wine and vines from the Nazis during WWII. It took me a few chapters to get into the story because it was difficult for me to keep all the French names straight, and I was too focused on understanding what part of France was being described. Once I let all that go and read it only for the stories, it became interesting (and eventually it was very easy to keep who, where and when straight). This is an interesting part of the history of WWII. I understand a little bit more about the French, and definitely want to read more about France during WWII.

[Jeff · Rating 3 out of 5]

An interesting look at the French wine industry during WWII. Provides some insight into how people cope with an occupation, what it means to resist and collaborate and the attitudes of an occupier when the combatants are neighbors.

However, it is a bit light on history when the authors drift from the main topic, making some rather odd assertions (like the impact of mistresses on foreign and defense policy) with no analysis. I would guess this is more a defect of the type of history this is: easily accessible, pop-history as opposed to a scholarly work.

[Sandra D · Rating 4 out of 5]

Lively, engaging story of French winemakers' efforts to protect their legacy and livelihood from greedy Nazi invaders, though probably of more interest to oenophiles than others. Ironically, my favorite wine is a nice dry Riesling from Germany.

[Nicki · Rating 2 out of 5]

This book had some very interesting stories in it. Unfortunately, the author jumps around a lot, especially back and forth through time. I got so frustrated with the jumping that I put it down twice and I don't know that I have the patience to finish the book.

[Bonnie Walker · Rating 3 out of 5]

This was an interesting enough book but it really never had me where I couldn't put it down. Since the story never really pulled me in I felt lost sometimes among the many people discussed in the book.

[Amy · Rating 4 out of 5]

I'm not much for nonfiction, but this goes down easily. Informative, by turns light-hearted and moving (that ending line, though!), and may have inspired me to drink a bit more than I ought this week. Vive la France!

[Lindsey Geddes · Rating 5 out of 5]

My favorite WW2 history! This is my third time reading! Great research & Story. Well written. You don’t need to know anything about wine to enjoy