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The Epic History of Macaroni and Cheese: From Ancient Rome to Modern America
Not yet published
Expected 3 Feb 26Today, macaroni and cheese is the ultimate comfort food, a staple of weeknight dinners, family gatherings, and Soul Food restaurants. Humble though the dish may seem, its history is filled with surprising twists and turns. Renaissance cardinals and popes dined on elaborate pasta-and-cheese concoctions laced with costly spices. In the eighteenth century, wealthy young Englishmen made macaroni a symbol of continental sophistication. Black women cooks, whose contribution has long been overshadowed, played a crucial role in establishing the dish as an American tradition from the nation’s founding through the Civil Rights Movement.
This book is a delectable history of macaroni and cheese, tracing an extraordinary journey of cultural exchange and social change. Karima Moyer-Nocchi reveals the religious, political, and industrial forces that forged its evolution alongside stories of the unsung figures who shaped the dish as we know it enslaved cooks who preserved and adapted traditions, immigrant chefs who introduced new variations, and practical homemakers looking to nourish their families with an affordable meal. She emphasizes the adaptability of macaroni and cheese, which in different times has served as both an indulgence on the elite table and sustenance to those struggling to survive, crossing borders, social classes, and cultural divides. Deeply researched and rich with enticing details, this book uncovers the creativity and resilience that brought a beloved food to our tables. The Epic History of Macaroni and Cheese also shares centuries of recipes—from ancient Roman authors to celebrity chefs, reworked for modern kitchens—that provide a hands-on portal to experience the evolution of this iconic dish.
This book is a delectable history of macaroni and cheese, tracing an extraordinary journey of cultural exchange and social change. Karima Moyer-Nocchi reveals the religious, political, and industrial forces that forged its evolution alongside stories of the unsung figures who shaped the dish as we know it enslaved cooks who preserved and adapted traditions, immigrant chefs who introduced new variations, and practical homemakers looking to nourish their families with an affordable meal. She emphasizes the adaptability of macaroni and cheese, which in different times has served as both an indulgence on the elite table and sustenance to those struggling to survive, crossing borders, social classes, and cultural divides. Deeply researched and rich with enticing details, this book uncovers the creativity and resilience that brought a beloved food to our tables. The Epic History of Macaroni and Cheese also shares centuries of recipes—from ancient Roman authors to celebrity chefs, reworked for modern kitchens—that provide a hands-on portal to experience the evolution of this iconic dish.
- GenresFoodHistoryNonfiction
368 pages, Hardcover
Expected publication February 3, 2026
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Displaying 1 - 15 of 15 reviews
November 30, 2025
First and foremost, a large thank you to NetGalley, Karima Moyer-Nocchi, and Columbia University Press for providing me with a copy of this publication, which allows me to provide you with an unbiased review.
While many would agree that macaroni and cheese is the ultimate binge-worthy food, creating a sense of comfort with those who eat it, the history of this dish is anything but simple. Food historian, Karima Moyer-Nocchi, takes readers on the long and complicated journey of the dish, including its development from Roman times, through the Middle Ages, and to how it landed on North America’s shores. In a thorough and captivating exploration, Moyer-Nocchi ensures readers are full of wonderful facts, vignettes, and even the odd traditional recipe to complete the journey. Not to be missed by those who have always wanted to know more than simply what’s on the table. Pack your forks, spoons, and something to wipe your face, as this is one trip that will leave you drooling.
Moyer-Nocchi explores the earliest mention of macaroni, which was actually a term used to describe all pastas. She explains that the Romans made use of sheet pasta in their recipes, tossing in cheese as a complement to offset the wheat-heavy nature of the staple. Honey was also used extensively, as a sweetener, making early renditions of a ‘mac ‘n cheese’ more a sweetened layer dish. Readers can see how this evolved somewhat and became a status symbol, based on the density and texture of the dish.
The Middle Ages sought to push the idea of pasta across the European continent, though meagre rations made it hard to ensure the food item was anything but plain. The Middle Ages sought not to perfect the meal, but to ensure it found its ways into kitchens both in France and Italy on the continent, as well as with the English. New cheese ideas emerged and made for some interesting machinations. European kitchens honed the pasta-making and ensured that cheese creations proved more to be thicker creams that would cover the base, usually baking it in some form of another.
The North American emergence of macaroni and cheese can be attributed to Thomas Jefferson during his time abroad. Actually, one must fete Jefferson’s cook, a slave he brought with him to the New World. Jefferson not only loved macaroni and its permutations, he sought to change its shape to the more tubular item we know well today. Moyer-Nocchi speaks at length about Jefferson’s interest in shaping the pasta and adding delectable cheeses to make it all the more exciting. As an aside, it would seem the cheese aspect of the dish was based mostly on availability, which is why cheddar became so popular when things reached Virginia. The development of the dish took on new angles as slaves used it to reflect on their own familial connections. The Caribbean captured a spicier side to macaroni and cheese, introducing chilies and even the idea of ketchup (not solely tomato-based). This adds a new and exciting depth to the story.
Karima Moyer-Nocchi then takes the approach of how macaroni and cheese spread across North America, emerging in early 19th century cookery books and exploding onto the scene. She examines how having such a dish in one’s recipe books was a sign of stature, and could also be a selling point when female slaves went on the market. Soon, the idea of macaroni as an inexpensive dish helped develop its popularity, though the author also tackles the ‘add meat’ aspect, sure to increase cost. While the Italians had experimented with macaroni and duck, the American spin to add beef (and tomatoes) created divisions across the board. Still, it helped expand options and left those tasked with making macaroni new ideas to attempt.
America sought to make macaroni and cheese its own during the 19th century, particularly after the Civil War. With a need to jumpstart the US economy, the government sought to have wheat harvested and, where possible, processed. Manufacturing of macaroni stateside would rival Russian wheat productions and create a strong nationalistic sentiment at the agricultural base. Cheese production and refinement also increased during this time, which helped fuel an explosion in macaroni’s popularity. The relative ease with making it and the varied ways of doing so created an American play to make the dish their own, forgetting the past cultures who defined and refined the dish over many centuries.
One would be remiss not to talk about how macaroni and cheese eventually turned ‘instant’ to tackle the busy home lives of people. Women were entering the workforce in droves after the Great War and there was a need to balance home and work life. Kraft came onto the scene, alongside a few other competitors, seeking to create a more instant and non-baking version of the cult classic. Cheese also transformed from its true version into something shelf-stable or at least more available for instant use. As Karima Moyer-Nocchi discusses, this became a staple in American homes throughout the 20th century. The ownership of ongoing macaroni and cheese permutations appeared to head South, becoming a core ‘soul food’, as food historians document clearly. Karima Moyer-Nocchi adds to this narrative, but also states clearly that macaroni and cheese, however it is made, proves to be a wonderful addition to any household wanting that warm and cozy feeling.
A book of this nature is not only fun to read, but full of wonderful moments of education. Karima Moyer-Nocchi ensures the reader is able to take a great deal away from the experience, seeing the true origins and evolution of a true comfort food. She makes sure to clearly explore the roots of macaroni (pasta) and how its flirtation with cheese has evolved over time. Through chapters full of great detail and stories, Moyer-Nocchi makes a strong case for the importance of macaroni and cheese as a dish that brings significant history alongside it. Photos and diagrams help personalise the reading experience, ensuring the reader is able to follow along with all that is taking place. While the narrative can get a little dense (too much literary gluten?), it shows a clear pathway from Roman creation through to dishes seen at many a picnic or funeral wake. It is the addition of recipes throughout the book that impressed me most of all. Karima Moyer-Nocchi makes sure to massage them so that the modern reader could create them with relative ease. This also permits the attentive reader to see how things progressed over time, as well as what tweaks took place when things crossed the Atlantic. Having read some food histories before, I can attest that Karima Moyer-Nocchi is able to make a great splash in the genre and does so by educating and entertaining in equal measure. I will have to see what else she has published and whether I can devour it in short order.
Kudos, Madam Moyer-Nocchi, for a delectable and thoroughly captivating look into the world of macaroni and cheese.
Love/hate the review? An ever-growing collection of others appears at: http://pecheyponderings.wordpress.com/
While many would agree that macaroni and cheese is the ultimate binge-worthy food, creating a sense of comfort with those who eat it, the history of this dish is anything but simple. Food historian, Karima Moyer-Nocchi, takes readers on the long and complicated journey of the dish, including its development from Roman times, through the Middle Ages, and to how it landed on North America’s shores. In a thorough and captivating exploration, Moyer-Nocchi ensures readers are full of wonderful facts, vignettes, and even the odd traditional recipe to complete the journey. Not to be missed by those who have always wanted to know more than simply what’s on the table. Pack your forks, spoons, and something to wipe your face, as this is one trip that will leave you drooling.
Moyer-Nocchi explores the earliest mention of macaroni, which was actually a term used to describe all pastas. She explains that the Romans made use of sheet pasta in their recipes, tossing in cheese as a complement to offset the wheat-heavy nature of the staple. Honey was also used extensively, as a sweetener, making early renditions of a ‘mac ‘n cheese’ more a sweetened layer dish. Readers can see how this evolved somewhat and became a status symbol, based on the density and texture of the dish.
The Middle Ages sought to push the idea of pasta across the European continent, though meagre rations made it hard to ensure the food item was anything but plain. The Middle Ages sought not to perfect the meal, but to ensure it found its ways into kitchens both in France and Italy on the continent, as well as with the English. New cheese ideas emerged and made for some interesting machinations. European kitchens honed the pasta-making and ensured that cheese creations proved more to be thicker creams that would cover the base, usually baking it in some form of another.
The North American emergence of macaroni and cheese can be attributed to Thomas Jefferson during his time abroad. Actually, one must fete Jefferson’s cook, a slave he brought with him to the New World. Jefferson not only loved macaroni and its permutations, he sought to change its shape to the more tubular item we know well today. Moyer-Nocchi speaks at length about Jefferson’s interest in shaping the pasta and adding delectable cheeses to make it all the more exciting. As an aside, it would seem the cheese aspect of the dish was based mostly on availability, which is why cheddar became so popular when things reached Virginia. The development of the dish took on new angles as slaves used it to reflect on their own familial connections. The Caribbean captured a spicier side to macaroni and cheese, introducing chilies and even the idea of ketchup (not solely tomato-based). This adds a new and exciting depth to the story.
Karima Moyer-Nocchi then takes the approach of how macaroni and cheese spread across North America, emerging in early 19th century cookery books and exploding onto the scene. She examines how having such a dish in one’s recipe books was a sign of stature, and could also be a selling point when female slaves went on the market. Soon, the idea of macaroni as an inexpensive dish helped develop its popularity, though the author also tackles the ‘add meat’ aspect, sure to increase cost. While the Italians had experimented with macaroni and duck, the American spin to add beef (and tomatoes) created divisions across the board. Still, it helped expand options and left those tasked with making macaroni new ideas to attempt.
America sought to make macaroni and cheese its own during the 19th century, particularly after the Civil War. With a need to jumpstart the US economy, the government sought to have wheat harvested and, where possible, processed. Manufacturing of macaroni stateside would rival Russian wheat productions and create a strong nationalistic sentiment at the agricultural base. Cheese production and refinement also increased during this time, which helped fuel an explosion in macaroni’s popularity. The relative ease with making it and the varied ways of doing so created an American play to make the dish their own, forgetting the past cultures who defined and refined the dish over many centuries.
One would be remiss not to talk about how macaroni and cheese eventually turned ‘instant’ to tackle the busy home lives of people. Women were entering the workforce in droves after the Great War and there was a need to balance home and work life. Kraft came onto the scene, alongside a few other competitors, seeking to create a more instant and non-baking version of the cult classic. Cheese also transformed from its true version into something shelf-stable or at least more available for instant use. As Karima Moyer-Nocchi discusses, this became a staple in American homes throughout the 20th century. The ownership of ongoing macaroni and cheese permutations appeared to head South, becoming a core ‘soul food’, as food historians document clearly. Karima Moyer-Nocchi adds to this narrative, but also states clearly that macaroni and cheese, however it is made, proves to be a wonderful addition to any household wanting that warm and cozy feeling.
A book of this nature is not only fun to read, but full of wonderful moments of education. Karima Moyer-Nocchi ensures the reader is able to take a great deal away from the experience, seeing the true origins and evolution of a true comfort food. She makes sure to clearly explore the roots of macaroni (pasta) and how its flirtation with cheese has evolved over time. Through chapters full of great detail and stories, Moyer-Nocchi makes a strong case for the importance of macaroni and cheese as a dish that brings significant history alongside it. Photos and diagrams help personalise the reading experience, ensuring the reader is able to follow along with all that is taking place. While the narrative can get a little dense (too much literary gluten?), it shows a clear pathway from Roman creation through to dishes seen at many a picnic or funeral wake. It is the addition of recipes throughout the book that impressed me most of all. Karima Moyer-Nocchi makes sure to massage them so that the modern reader could create them with relative ease. This also permits the attentive reader to see how things progressed over time, as well as what tweaks took place when things crossed the Atlantic. Having read some food histories before, I can attest that Karima Moyer-Nocchi is able to make a great splash in the genre and does so by educating and entertaining in equal measure. I will have to see what else she has published and whether I can devour it in short order.
Kudos, Madam Moyer-Nocchi, for a delectable and thoroughly captivating look into the world of macaroni and cheese.
Love/hate the review? An ever-growing collection of others appears at: http://pecheyponderings.wordpress.com/
November 27, 2025
I received an advance copy from the publisher via NetGalley.
Macaroni and cheese is good, and it turns out, many people have thought that for centuries. Moyer-Nocchi's nonfiction history of the dish is always interesting, yet is a very slow, academic-feeling read. To add some context: there are about 100 pages of citations at the end. So, this is not a casual read for just any person who likes macaroni and cheese.
That said, I'd glad I pushed through because I learned a lot. The roots of the dish go back to the lasagna-like food called placenta in the Roman era, but dishes of small pasta and cheese aren't chronicled until the Middle Ages. Mentions, and enjoyment, of macaroni increase from there. Many cookbook authors stole from each other to share the recipe. In Revolutionary-era America, due to the cost of importation, macaroni was a thing for the wealthy, not only because of the noodles but the use of cheese like Parmesan. It sounds like Thomas Jefferson may have literally imported a ton of stuff over decades. It was in this period that the fashionable nature of the dish also caused young male dandies to be called macaronis, like in the song "Yankee Doodle Dandy." Only later in the 19th century did macaroni and cheese became a food for all people--and special attention is given to its role within the African-American community, as the food has an unavoidable connection to slavery and plantation life.
So yes, a very fascinating book for people like me who love food histories, but don't expect a quick and breezy read.
Macaroni and cheese is good, and it turns out, many people have thought that for centuries. Moyer-Nocchi's nonfiction history of the dish is always interesting, yet is a very slow, academic-feeling read. To add some context: there are about 100 pages of citations at the end. So, this is not a casual read for just any person who likes macaroni and cheese.
That said, I'd glad I pushed through because I learned a lot. The roots of the dish go back to the lasagna-like food called placenta in the Roman era, but dishes of small pasta and cheese aren't chronicled until the Middle Ages. Mentions, and enjoyment, of macaroni increase from there. Many cookbook authors stole from each other to share the recipe. In Revolutionary-era America, due to the cost of importation, macaroni was a thing for the wealthy, not only because of the noodles but the use of cheese like Parmesan. It sounds like Thomas Jefferson may have literally imported a ton of stuff over decades. It was in this period that the fashionable nature of the dish also caused young male dandies to be called macaronis, like in the song "Yankee Doodle Dandy." Only later in the 19th century did macaroni and cheese became a food for all people--and special attention is given to its role within the African-American community, as the food has an unavoidable connection to slavery and plantation life.
So yes, a very fascinating book for people like me who love food histories, but don't expect a quick and breezy read.
September 16, 2025
Thanks so much to NetGalley for the free Kindle book. My review is voluntarily given, and my opinions are my own.
It's possible the person who left the one-star review was expecting a mac-n-cheese cookbook or maybe a coloring book? I don't know. This was extremely interesting. I just don't understand people reading non-fiction books with the word 'history' in the title and then being surprised there are historical facts in the book.
I was so shocked to learn this one food has so much history surrounding it. Loved seeing all of the different recipes that chefs have written down throughout the ages. The only thing that would have made this book better would have been to have a professional chef recreate some of those recipes and include the photos. Maybe if they ever decide to release a special edition:)
Definitely would recommend this!
It's possible the person who left the one-star review was expecting a mac-n-cheese cookbook or maybe a coloring book? I don't know. This was extremely interesting. I just don't understand people reading non-fiction books with the word 'history' in the title and then being surprised there are historical facts in the book.
I was so shocked to learn this one food has so much history surrounding it. Loved seeing all of the different recipes that chefs have written down throughout the ages. The only thing that would have made this book better would have been to have a professional chef recreate some of those recipes and include the photos. Maybe if they ever decide to release a special edition:)
Definitely would recommend this!
October 6, 2025
*This book was received as an Advanced Reviewer's Copy from Netgalley.
Everybody loves mac and cheese. Well actually I didn't as a child but I do now as an adult. Whatever, the points still stands; noodles, good, cheese, good, together good. But have you ever wondered what the origin of this dish was?
Turns out it has a long history - although we might not recognize some of the ingredients in their original form to what their modern counterparts were (nor the preparation techniques). Ranging from how wheat and noodles were even developed, to when we started adding cheese, and the different cultures who utilized these ingredients, it was a very deep dive into history.
I always love learning about food origin, although it can get a bit tedious and dry at times, especially when you take a product far far back. But there's always nuggets to glean from it. The history in this book was solid, and very thorough. What I would have liked to see more was the influence on modern times and the social commentary that is mac and cheese in the now, to show the juxtaposition (or not) of how far this dish has come. It touches on it very slightly, but we don't get into the variations and absolute explosion of types that are out there now.
It was an interesting book, but I think its audience is definitely more for food history fanatics rather than casual food history readers.
Review by M. Reynard 2025
Everybody loves mac and cheese. Well actually I didn't as a child but I do now as an adult. Whatever, the points still stands; noodles, good, cheese, good, together good. But have you ever wondered what the origin of this dish was?
Turns out it has a long history - although we might not recognize some of the ingredients in their original form to what their modern counterparts were (nor the preparation techniques). Ranging from how wheat and noodles were even developed, to when we started adding cheese, and the different cultures who utilized these ingredients, it was a very deep dive into history.
I always love learning about food origin, although it can get a bit tedious and dry at times, especially when you take a product far far back. But there's always nuggets to glean from it. The history in this book was solid, and very thorough. What I would have liked to see more was the influence on modern times and the social commentary that is mac and cheese in the now, to show the juxtaposition (or not) of how far this dish has come. It touches on it very slightly, but we don't get into the variations and absolute explosion of types that are out there now.
It was an interesting book, but I think its audience is definitely more for food history fanatics rather than casual food history readers.
Review by M. Reynard 2025
September 25, 2025
Having a keen interest in food and recipes, I was curious to read The Epic History of Macaroni and Cheese by Karima Moyer-Nocchi. It’s an impressively researched book, full of historical information and interspersed with recipes that trace the dish from its ancient Italian origins, through French, English, and Caribbean influences, to its present day popularity in America.
Although I personally struggled a little with this book (it wasn’t quite for me) I can see how much care and scholarship has gone into it. The chapters are well structured, and the detail will appeal to readers who enjoy deep dives into food history. I especially appreciated seeing the recipes included and how they developed over time.
For anyone with a serious interest in culinary history, this will be a rewarding read.
I received an advance review copy from NetGalley.
Although I personally struggled a little with this book (it wasn’t quite for me) I can see how much care and scholarship has gone into it. The chapters are well structured, and the detail will appeal to readers who enjoy deep dives into food history. I especially appreciated seeing the recipes included and how they developed over time.
For anyone with a serious interest in culinary history, this will be a rewarding read.
I received an advance review copy from NetGalley.
Review of advance copy received from Netgalley
They put cinnamon on macaroni and cheese. And I really wanna try it.
"The Epic History of Macaroni and Cheese" by Karima Moyer-Nocchi is exactly what it says on the tin. This nonfiction follows the history of macaroni from it's earliest counterparts in Ancient Rome to the Kraft boxed stuff of the modern day. Along the way, it gives both literal recipes plucked from the past unchanged and modern iterations you could make in your own kitchen.
Sidenote: Yes, I have a Bachelors in History. No, I will not be writing this like an academic peer review. Intelligence is knowing how to write for scholars. Wisdom is knowing few want to read that on a casual blog.
First, the technical stuff. You can tell the author is a professionally trained historian by the language she uses. Instead of the definitive "these are all the things that definitely happened for a fact" style used by a lot of modern amateur historians, she employs the much more realistic approach of plausibility. "Based on the sources provided, this was plausible/probable" or "we have no sources to support this idea." She also breaks down the myths where a single historical figure is the sole reason for the dish being carried to different nations. Neither Catherine de Medici nor James Hemmings were single-handedly responsible for bringing mac n' cheese across borders. The spread of culture is rarely that distinct.
The author's bias is fairly well accounted for in the book, aside from the recipes. She mentions that she has all of them reformatted for a "reasonably well-stocked kitchen" in the modern day. But as someone who only just learned how to make the dish not from a box and has very little access to specialty stores, I have a very different definition of what a manageable recipe would be. So while she brings up the idea of cooking your way through the chapters, if you're not already comfortable with the idea of handmaking your own pasta, you'll likely be daunted by the whole thing.
Cooking anxiety aside, Moyer-Nocchi does a wonderful job of delving into more serious topics surrounding macaroni and cheese. She could have easily gotten away with making a light and fluffy food history book and downplaying the darker elements. And yet, there's deep discussions of the tariffs, poverty, and slavery that went into the dish's evolution. She gives full credit to Black Americans for making modern mac n' cheese what it is and how that happened. And thankfully, she doesn't deride the invention and propagation of the boxed variety (which I half expected, to be honest) but explains the full reasons behind it's creation without judgement.
Oh, and she explains Yankee Doodle's "He put a feather in his cap and called it macaroni," if you ever wanted to know the history behind that line.
Overall, I loved this book. It was an incredibly slow read for me (that may have been my academic brain wanting to pore over everything) but every minute was enjoyable. A great pick for curious foodies everywhere.
And yes, I will be making macaroni and cheese and putting cinnamon on it. I gotta know what that tastes like.
"The Epic History of Macaroni and Cheese" by Karima Moyer-Nocchi is exactly what it says on the tin. This nonfiction follows the history of macaroni from it's earliest counterparts in Ancient Rome to the Kraft boxed stuff of the modern day. Along the way, it gives both literal recipes plucked from the past unchanged and modern iterations you could make in your own kitchen.
Sidenote: Yes, I have a Bachelors in History. No, I will not be writing this like an academic peer review. Intelligence is knowing how to write for scholars. Wisdom is knowing few want to read that on a casual blog.
First, the technical stuff. You can tell the author is a professionally trained historian by the language she uses. Instead of the definitive "these are all the things that definitely happened for a fact" style used by a lot of modern amateur historians, she employs the much more realistic approach of plausibility. "Based on the sources provided, this was plausible/probable" or "we have no sources to support this idea." She also breaks down the myths where a single historical figure is the sole reason for the dish being carried to different nations. Neither Catherine de Medici nor James Hemmings were single-handedly responsible for bringing mac n' cheese across borders. The spread of culture is rarely that distinct.
The author's bias is fairly well accounted for in the book, aside from the recipes. She mentions that she has all of them reformatted for a "reasonably well-stocked kitchen" in the modern day. But as someone who only just learned how to make the dish not from a box and has very little access to specialty stores, I have a very different definition of what a manageable recipe would be. So while she brings up the idea of cooking your way through the chapters, if you're not already comfortable with the idea of handmaking your own pasta, you'll likely be daunted by the whole thing.
Cooking anxiety aside, Moyer-Nocchi does a wonderful job of delving into more serious topics surrounding macaroni and cheese. She could have easily gotten away with making a light and fluffy food history book and downplaying the darker elements. And yet, there's deep discussions of the tariffs, poverty, and slavery that went into the dish's evolution. She gives full credit to Black Americans for making modern mac n' cheese what it is and how that happened. And thankfully, she doesn't deride the invention and propagation of the boxed variety (which I half expected, to be honest) but explains the full reasons behind it's creation without judgement.
Oh, and she explains Yankee Doodle's "He put a feather in his cap and called it macaroni," if you ever wanted to know the history behind that line.
Overall, I loved this book. It was an incredibly slow read for me (that may have been my academic brain wanting to pore over everything) but every minute was enjoyable. A great pick for curious foodies everywhere.
And yes, I will be making macaroni and cheese and putting cinnamon on it. I gotta know what that tastes like.
Review of advance copy received from Netgalley
Thanks to NetGalley & Columbia University Press For the ARC!
Karima Moyer-Nocchi’s The Epic History of Macaroni and Cheese offers a delightful selection of recipe curios, but the surrounding history is unforgivably dry—leftover tidbits and scraps that can’t even fill out a casserole dish.
What does macaroni mean?
Every good food history wrestles with a variation of that question (sans “macaroni”), and it’s always a delight to see how a seemingly insignificant meal can serve as edible ethnography, carrying entire histories of culture, trade, politics, and race in every bite. I think of Russell Fielding’s Breadfruit, another book in this series, as an excellent example of how an author can expand one’s appetite for knowledge even as they feed it. Unfortunately, macaroni just isn’t as “epic” as breadfruit, and although Moyer-Nocchi’s scholarship is thorough, one can’t help but feel that she is straining to craft it into a coherent whole.
First, the early history of macaroni, at least as it’s presented here, feels like semantic pedantry more than etymological exploration. What they called macaroni isn’t what we call macaroni, so what exactly is macaroni? Likewise, the more recent history is interesting but uninterpretable, offering little more than factoids that would feel at home on the back of a box of Kraft. Did you know Thomas Jefferson hand-wrote a recipe for macaroni? Cool! On the one hand, it’s admirable that Moyer-Nocchi has the integrity to carefully caveat the information she includes, but there are so many maybes, it’s plausibles and we can’t say for sures that the book’s academic rigor starts to feel a little silly—macaroni and cheese might be an engaging tangent but an inadequate subject.
All that said, the book shines in one regard—the recipes themselves. Moyer-Nocchi has exhaustively collected hundreds of years of variations on macaroni and cheese, and each one is presented in both its original form and a modified, kitchen-friendly version. There’s such a range of ingredients, cooking practices, and levels of detail that gastronomy speaks where history doesn’t. It’s enough to make me wish The Epic History of Macaroni and Cheese had been a historical cookbook instead of a history with recipes, and that might be the best way for would-be readers to approach the book. After all, maybe we don’t need arguments for why macaroni is important; maybe we just need to taste why it’s been a comfort food for so long.
Karima Moyer-Nocchi’s The Epic History of Macaroni and Cheese offers a delightful selection of recipe curios, but the surrounding history is unforgivably dry—leftover tidbits and scraps that can’t even fill out a casserole dish.
What does macaroni mean?
Every good food history wrestles with a variation of that question (sans “macaroni”), and it’s always a delight to see how a seemingly insignificant meal can serve as edible ethnography, carrying entire histories of culture, trade, politics, and race in every bite. I think of Russell Fielding’s Breadfruit, another book in this series, as an excellent example of how an author can expand one’s appetite for knowledge even as they feed it. Unfortunately, macaroni just isn’t as “epic” as breadfruit, and although Moyer-Nocchi’s scholarship is thorough, one can’t help but feel that she is straining to craft it into a coherent whole.
First, the early history of macaroni, at least as it’s presented here, feels like semantic pedantry more than etymological exploration. What they called macaroni isn’t what we call macaroni, so what exactly is macaroni? Likewise, the more recent history is interesting but uninterpretable, offering little more than factoids that would feel at home on the back of a box of Kraft. Did you know Thomas Jefferson hand-wrote a recipe for macaroni? Cool! On the one hand, it’s admirable that Moyer-Nocchi has the integrity to carefully caveat the information she includes, but there are so many maybes, it’s plausibles and we can’t say for sures that the book’s academic rigor starts to feel a little silly—macaroni and cheese might be an engaging tangent but an inadequate subject.
All that said, the book shines in one regard—the recipes themselves. Moyer-Nocchi has exhaustively collected hundreds of years of variations on macaroni and cheese, and each one is presented in both its original form and a modified, kitchen-friendly version. There’s such a range of ingredients, cooking practices, and levels of detail that gastronomy speaks where history doesn’t. It’s enough to make me wish The Epic History of Macaroni and Cheese had been a historical cookbook instead of a history with recipes, and that might be the best way for would-be readers to approach the book. After all, maybe we don’t need arguments for why macaroni is important; maybe we just need to taste why it’s been a comfort food for so long.
December 5, 2025
When I saw this book on NetGalley, my first thought was, 'I had no idea macaroni and cheese had an epic history.' My next thought was that I really wanted to read it. It did not disappoint. You might wonder what could be so important about the history of any food, but as the Curator of Food History at the National Museum of American History, Paula J. Johnson points out in her foreword, ' As culinary historians understand, tracing the history of foods and foodways across time and space reveals intricate threads of history--trading networks and technologies of transport, cultural diasporas resulting from conflicts and disease, the influence of religion and education, and ideas about gender, race, and class that underlie relationships and fuel the dynamics of power.' (p ix-x) The history of macaroni and cheese addresses all of these issues and more. The author sets the record straight on some myths surrounding this dish, provides modernized versions of old recipes that illustrate the evolution of the dish itself and attitudes towards it, shows how various peoples and ethnic groups put their own spin on the dish, discusses the ways in which recipes were copied, and shows how food technology impacted the ways macaroni and cheese was produced by both individual home cooks and food companies. It's a fascinating history. I'll never look at mac and cheese the same way again. If you're interested in culinary history, cultural foodways, issues of gender, race, and class, this book is for you. I'm already recommending it to people I know.
I thank NetGalley, the publisher, and the author for a digital review copy.
I thank NetGalley, the publisher, and the author for a digital review copy.
October 13, 2025
I love macaroni and cheese, but I hate to cook. Maybe that influenced my feelings about this book.... At the outset I was a little confused about where the term 'macaroni' even came from, the first chapter left me a little befuddled.
I took a few interesting things away from the book.
The first cheese used with something we'd recognize as pasta was Parmesan, which has a much stronger flavor than the cheeses that are used in the dish today.
Pasta with butter and cheese used to be a dish of the upper crust, because butter and cheese were usually inaccessible to the impoverished. This is ironic given that in the 20th century, with the creation of processed cheese in the US, mac and cheese became THE meal of those living on very low incomes.
"She who owns the cook doesn't own the recipes" = the elevation of mac and cheese in white southern cuisine relied on old recipes published in antebellum cookbooks because the plantation mistresses didn't work in their own kitchens, and the enslaved cooks didn't use cookbooks. Black chefs in the US took their culinary experience with them into freedom and in many cases did well with it.
If you're interested in culinary history and the fine details of different recipes you may enjoy this more than I did.
Thanks to NetGalley for letting me read an advance copy of this book.
I took a few interesting things away from the book.
The first cheese used with something we'd recognize as pasta was Parmesan, which has a much stronger flavor than the cheeses that are used in the dish today.
Pasta with butter and cheese used to be a dish of the upper crust, because butter and cheese were usually inaccessible to the impoverished. This is ironic given that in the 20th century, with the creation of processed cheese in the US, mac and cheese became THE meal of those living on very low incomes.
"She who owns the cook doesn't own the recipes" = the elevation of mac and cheese in white southern cuisine relied on old recipes published in antebellum cookbooks because the plantation mistresses didn't work in their own kitchens, and the enslaved cooks didn't use cookbooks. Black chefs in the US took their culinary experience with them into freedom and in many cases did well with it.
If you're interested in culinary history and the fine details of different recipes you may enjoy this more than I did.
Thanks to NetGalley for letting me read an advance copy of this book.
November 2, 2025
Thank you Netgalley, Columbia University Press, and Karima Moyer-Nocchi for sending me this advance review copy for free. I am leaving this review voluntarily.
This wasn't what I expected from reading the blurb at all.
I thought it was going to be a history rich cookbook, but instead it was more like a very dry college textbook. It was very well researched, and went incredibly in depth. There were only a handful of recipes scattered through the book, and the writing style for the recipes was not uniform in the slightest. Unfortunately there were also very few photos, and none of the finished food. I have no idea what most of these types of Mac n Cheese are even supposed to look like.
The text was dry, and it took some time to work through the book. I did enjoy it, but I think I would have liked it much better if there were more photos to break up the text, and also helped to understand visually what we were learning about. It read more like a dissertation than it did a nonfiction book that most people would enjoy.
For me, this one was a pass.
This wasn't what I expected from reading the blurb at all.
I thought it was going to be a history rich cookbook, but instead it was more like a very dry college textbook. It was very well researched, and went incredibly in depth. There were only a handful of recipes scattered through the book, and the writing style for the recipes was not uniform in the slightest. Unfortunately there were also very few photos, and none of the finished food. I have no idea what most of these types of Mac n Cheese are even supposed to look like.
The text was dry, and it took some time to work through the book. I did enjoy it, but I think I would have liked it much better if there were more photos to break up the text, and also helped to understand visually what we were learning about. It read more like a dissertation than it did a nonfiction book that most people would enjoy.
For me, this one was a pass.
Review of advance copy received from Netgalley
This book is detailed and methodical, beginning at the beginning - the Middle Ages in what would become Italy. it places it's history of mac and cheese is a much, much broader context, acknowledging the important role food history has, and showing how the history of things we know about should include food, but that's often ignored. the context includes religion, class, colonialism, empire, gender and other things two. the author describes one section of the book as 'painstaking' but the who book is detailed and very, very thorough. Whether that is what you, as a reader, are looking for is subjective. For me is was a bit too much. I think I was looking for something rather more like the Object Lessons series, rather than something quite this detailed. It's a cute bonus that the historic recipes are translated to make them cookable today.
Thanks to NetGalley and the publisher for the eArc in exchange for an honest review.
Thanks to NetGalley and the publisher for the eArc in exchange for an honest review.
November 2, 2025
#TheEpicHistoryofMacaroniandCheese #NetGalley
Density is a desired feature in your mac and cheese, but it shouldn't be as prevalent in a book about the beloved side dish. Arguably, a mac and cheese foodie craves a perfect blend of cheese with pasta. Undercooked or overcooked pasta will taint the experience.
In this instance, felt that the author fixation on minute detail overtook the readability of a potentially good book. The title's pretty transparent in that it will cover a wide span of history. Still, that does not mean hurling facts at the reader sacrificing a pleasant read. Found overly lengthy sentences from the start and held out hope that as the book progressed, the style was an anomaly. It wasn't.
This ARC was provided by the publisher, Columbia University Press, via NetGalley in exchange for an honest review.
Density is a desired feature in your mac and cheese, but it shouldn't be as prevalent in a book about the beloved side dish. Arguably, a mac and cheese foodie craves a perfect blend of cheese with pasta. Undercooked or overcooked pasta will taint the experience.
In this instance, felt that the author fixation on minute detail overtook the readability of a potentially good book. The title's pretty transparent in that it will cover a wide span of history. Still, that does not mean hurling facts at the reader sacrificing a pleasant read. Found overly lengthy sentences from the start and held out hope that as the book progressed, the style was an anomaly. It wasn't.
This ARC was provided by the publisher, Columbia University Press, via NetGalley in exchange for an honest review.
September 12, 2025
Netgalley ARC- I love history and I love mac and cheese so this seemed like a great combination just like macaroni and cheese. However, this was as dry as uncooked pasta. The research is evident, but the passion for a dish that is for some their whole childhood, isn't. It felt more like they were writing a history paper and tied in macaroni and cheese where they could. The few recipes throughout are used to illustrate how they tie in the mac and cheese. They are as dry as the research. I'd skip this one and just read the Kraft box.
December 10, 2025
Macaroni and cheese is the ultimate comfort food. Food historian Karima Moyer-Nocchi takes us on a historical journey of the dish, from Roman times, through the Middle Ages, and into North America.
The word “macaroni” was a term used to describe all pastas. From Catherine de' Medici to Thomas Jefferson, we see how each culture gives the dish a new outlook.
Although a well-researched book, and unlike a good plate of macaroni, the writing is a little dry. There is no passion to the book, just the information assault of a research paper.
Thank you to Netgally for the eARC.
The word “macaroni” was a term used to describe all pastas. From Catherine de' Medici to Thomas Jefferson, we see how each culture gives the dish a new outlook.
Although a well-researched book, and unlike a good plate of macaroni, the writing is a little dry. There is no passion to the book, just the information assault of a research paper.
Thank you to Netgally for the eARC.
September 22, 2025
The book was interesting to read. I learned some interesting history of Mac n Cheese and want to try some of these recipes but it really felt like just a research paper and not a book.
Special thanks to NetGalley for the ARC to review in exchange for my honest feedback.
Special thanks to NetGalley for the ARC to review in exchange for my honest feedback.
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