This delightful and well-written memoir tells the story of a woman, English born and bred, never straying very far from her home village, who found herself suddenly uprooted and transported to the Sultanate of Oman. When Charlotte Smith agreed to follow her husband in the wake of a new job, she knew that she and her family would encounter a world radically different from the one they had always known, but she was not quite prepared for how different it would be. She did, however, know that it was a Muslim country, and that did concern her greatly, though not for reasons of religion or ideology. No, her concerns were much more practical—where was she going to buy wine, and, perhaps more importantly, as an animal lover, how was she possibly going to survive without pets? After all, the Quran requires all strict Muslims to abstain from alcohol and to revile dogs as unclean creatures.
Fortunately, when she arrives in Oman she discovers the Sultanate to be much more progressive than its backwards neighbors. Sure, homosexuality is still illegal (3 years in the pokey if you are not discreet, but better than death) and don’t go around dissing either the Prophet or the Sultan, but it possible to get a permit to buy booze and no one minds if you responsibly keep a pet. After Smith receives her liquor-purchase permit from the government, she discovers that liquor stores in Muscat (the capital) are very much like sex shops used to be—windows shuttered against prying eyes and doors tightly closed, but inside containing a wonderland of adult pleasure. As for dogs and cats (mogs or moggy), she ends up not only owning wonderful companions, but actually working in a Muscat veterinarian’s office and running a pet adoption service for trays and abandoned animals.
Once Smith moves beyond the confines of her own family and the problems of running a household in a foreign land and enters the world of dogs and mogs, we are presented with some of the most heart-warming, and heart-breaking, stories you’ll ever read about our animal friends. At one point in the memoir, the veterinarian in charge declares angrily: “I love animals, it’s people I can’t stand!” It’s something that I (along with Mark Twain and James Thurber) have known for a long time, but, through Smith’s clear and impassioned writing, you, too, might find yourself drifting to that point of view.
Smith’s memoir begins in the early 21st Century and concludes in the middle of 2013, a period of great change and turmoil in the Middle East and North Africa. Since some of the political and economic events do affect the lives of her family, they are referenced now and then, but only tangentially. She rightly keeps her focus on the small picture, the lives of her friends and family, and, especially, the dogs and mogs she meets and is sometimes able to help.
This book will appeal to those who enjoy biographies, memoirs or accounts of travel in foreign lands. But I think the real appeal will be for dog and cat fanciers, especially those who think that any effort made to make the lives of dogs and cats better is never a wasted effort.