Apples Are from Kazakhstan: The Land that Disappeared

by Christopher Robbins

Closed to foreigners under Tsar and Soviet rule, Kazakhstan has remained largely hidden from the world, a remarkable feat for a country the size of Western Europe. Few would guess that Kazakhstan—a blank in Westerners' collective geography—turns out to be diverse, tolerant, and surprisingly modern, the country that gave the world apples, trousers, and even, perhaps, King Arthur.

Christopher Robbins enjoyed unprecedented access to the Kazakh president while crafting this travelogue, and he relates a story by turns hilarious and grim. He finds Eminem-worship by a shrinking Aral Sea, hears the Kazakh John Lennon play in a dusty desert town, joins nomads hunting eagles, eats boiled sheep's head (a delicacy), and explores some of the most beautiful, unspoiled places on earth. Observant and culturally attuned, Robbins is a master stylist in the tradition of travel writing as literature, a companion to V. S. Naipaul and Paul Theroux.

Genres: Travel, Nonfiction, History, Kazakhstan, Asia, Memoir, Russia

304 pages, Hardcover

First published April 1, 2008

About the author

Christopher Robbins began his career in journalism at the age of sixteen when he started writing jazz criticism for the Daily Telegraph. Since then he has written for numerous newspapers and magazines in Britain, Europe and the USA.

The Empress of Ireland won the Saga Award for wit, along with exceptional critical acclaim. In Search of Kazakhstan was short-listed for the Authors’ Club Best Travel Book Award 2008 in the UK and (under the title Apples Are From Kazakhstan) for the Best Travel Books of 2008 in the US. Air America, a worldwide bestseller when it was originally published, was made into a film starring Mel Gibson.

Reviews

[Karen · Rating 4 out of 5]

Part travel diary, story book, and history text--an engaging look at a country that unfortunately is only known in the west because of the idiotic Borat of recent years. The author spent considerable time in Kazakhstan interviewing the president, traveling to all major regions, and researching its history in depth. I particularly enjoyed learning the history of certain regions through the stories of Dostoevsky, Trotsky, and Solzhenitsyn, who all spent considerable time there against their will. The author also shares little known but interesting facts; for example, the modern day apple originated in Kazakhstan and supposedly so did tulips, which grow wild in the south. In addition, a lot of time looking to the future of this country and its role in the global economy. In short, you have to love history when it’s somebody’s story rather than just a bunch of facts and dates stuffed into a book! I highly recommend it.

[Max Berendsen · Rating 3 out of 5]

3.5 stars

Review to follow

[Sara · Rating 5 out of 5]

Now I want to visit Kazakhstan.

This book is a lovingly-written, extensively researched ode to a little-known and much-mocked nation. The author, aside from traveling to the remotest parts of this already remote country, also makes a thorough study of the Kazakh president and political history since the country's recent independence.

As a result, this book is crazy educational. "Crazy educational?" you say, doubtful and with slight scorn. Yes - it is educational, but the history, the natural resources, the tragedy of its treatment under the Soviets - is all so fascinating you'll never enjoy education so much.

The author includes backstory, such as the tale of the haughty English explorer determined to travel the breadth of the land during one of the harshest winters in memory and the time great Russian writers spent here in exile.

I hope the author makes a habit of illuminating neglected nations, because I've never enjoyed a travelogue as much as I did this one.

[Connie G · Rating 4 out of 5]

Christopher Robbin's travelogue about Kazakhstan is an engaging look at the large former Soviet state bordering the powerful countries of Russia and China. The population is composed of the formerly nomadic Kazakhs, Russians, Chechens, Germans, and others. Robbins tells us about famous people being exiled and imprisoned in remote Kazakhstan--Trotsky, Dostoevsky, and Solzhenitsyn--as he describes the various regions of the country. He also notes the extreme weather of hot summers and dangerously frigid winters.

The author was fortunate to have access to Kazakhstan's President Nursultan Nazabayev who offered comments about the country under Soviet control, and the independent nation it became. They traveled to the Aral Sea which has shrunk into a small salty sea after its waters were used for an irrigation project by the Soviets. Nazarbayev also took Robbins to visit the toxic area where nuclear bombs were tested by the Soviets. Kazakhstan has great stores of oil and minerals, and President Nazarbayev helped bring modern industry to the country. Kazakhstan is putting up modern buildings, but old Soviet-style construction is still present in many cities. While the information provided by President Nazarbayev was interesting and offered some rare opportunities to the author, the reader should be aware that the politician has been accused of corruption.

As the title suggests, Kazakhstan is the birthplace of apples and the author visited orchards growing the native variety which is no longer popular. Robbins loved the beautiful open spaces, the mountains, and the resilient spirit of the Kazakhs. The book combines humorous incidents with solid research and serious topics to form a fascinating travel book.

[GeorgeMarshall · Rating 1 out of 5]

The disturbing aspect of this book is its unapologetic hagiography of Kazakhstan's dictatorship and one party state. Even more disturbing is that virtually none of the Goodreads or wider media reviewers seem to have noticed, or seem be in the least bit concerned.

In the fourth chapter Robbins spends a mere two paragraphs dismissing the "muddled and contradictory" Western criticisms of the Kazakh government. He entirely ignores the legitimate concerns of Kazakhstan human rights and democracy campaigners and by so doing demeans their bravery.

This book is positioned as an entertaining and light read- and I would forgive its superficiality if it was just a travel book. But it is deeply political in its own way and needs to be judged by that measure. For a mere travel writer Robbins achieved remarkable (and never adequately explained) personal access to President Nazerbayev including travelling in his entourage on a long trip across the country. Robbins does nothing to betray this confidence and presents multiple cosy anecdotes from his conversation with Nazerbayev to share his wit, bravery, nation building prowess, and prove the adoration of his people. As one of the Goodreads reviews says "Mr. Robbins's description, Nazarbayev sounds like a nice enough guy who genuinely cares about his country's welfare".

Independent evaluations show that Kazakstan is a deeply repressive and corrupt one party state. The Democracy Index rates it number 139 below China, and just above the Mugabe's Zimbabwe and the Congo. Like Mugabe, Nazerbayev made himself President for Life through a scandalous revision of the constitution. Transparency International places it 131 for corruption in equally unsavoury company.

Of course it looks to Robbins as though people adore Nazerbayev- it often looks like that in dictatorships that suppress freedom of speech and critical media: Kazakhstan rates an appalling 157 in the world for the Press Freedom Index.

And then again, he's not really interested in looking deeper. I bought this book before my own visit to Kazakhstan. In my own travels there I met many people who, in confidence, expressed deep unease or outright loathing for the government. None of this is reflected in this awful book. There is so so much more to say about its long struggle for freedom and the brave people who continue to fight for their rights.

[Meaghan · Rating 5 out of 5]

This was an absolutely scrumptious travelogue/history book, chock-full of interesting tidbits and trivia. The author not only traveled basically all over Kazakhstan, but he also wrote about its history, particularly under Soviet rule, and interviewed loads of Kazakhs, including the president, Nursultan Nazarbayev. (And, from Mr. Robbins's description, Nazarbayev sounds like a nice enough guy who genuinely cares about his country's welfare.)

Although there are a lot of ethnic, linguistic and religious minorities in Kazakhstan, they all pretty much get along and there isn't a lot of prejudice or ethnic tension. I think other countries could learn something from Kazakhstan's example in that area (lookin' at you, Israel).

Robbins really makes the country come alive in his writing, and it made me want to go visit for myself and check out those enormous apples the size of a baby's head. Anyone who's into Central Asian or Russian history, or travel writing, would probably enjoy this book.

[Katerina Charisi · Rating 4 out of 5]

Εξαιρετικά ενδιαφέρον. Ταξιδιωτική λογοτεχνία πλούσια σε ιστορίες και πληθώρα πληροφοριών. Ιστορία, πολιτική, γεωγραφία, μύθοι. Τα μήλα αποτελούν απλώς την αφορμή για μια πανέμορφη διαδρομή στο χρόνο και τον κόσμο. Το βιβλίο διατίθεται δωρεάν από την καζακική πρεσβεία και υπάρχει ελεύθερο στο διαδίκτυο.

[David · Rating 4 out of 5]

On a flight from London to Moscow, Christopher Robbins sat next to a man traveling from Georgia to Kazakhstan to start a new life with a woman he met over the Internet. As they left the plane, the man commented "apples are from Kazakhstan."

That sentence hooked Robbins. It hooked me, too. When I read that story in the prologue, I decided that I would have to read the rest.

Apples are from Kazakhstan. The man who established Kazakhstan as the birthplace of the apple, Valivov, was sentenced to death as an enemy of the people by the influence of his former protege -- Lysenko. Vavilov's sentence was commuted to twenty years hard labor, but he nevertheless died in a Soviet prison during an epidemic of dysentery.

These are the two sides of this book. Robbins is clearly enchanted with this country, birthplace of apples and tulips and home to the horse warriors who may have inspired the legend of King Arthur and his knights. His stories of the history of the place -- and of his own travels -- are wonderful and entertaining reading. At the same time, he relates -- dispassionately, but in detail -- stories of the misfortune brought to the land by the Soviet system. These latter are just as well written, but crushing to read.

The two parts would be good on their own. The combination is excellent.

[QuyAn · Rating 5 out of 5]

Đây là một quyển sách ấn tượng.

Ấn tượng đầu tiên là từ cái tên. Kiểu ai nghe qua xong cũng hỏi: Phải vậy thật không? Sự tò mò, suy cho cùng, luôn là một liều thuốc kích thích tốt.

Nhưng không cần quá nhiều sự kích thích để đọc quyển này, bởi tác giả là một người viết rất khéo và mang đến một sự kết hợp tinh tế, uyển chuyển giữa nhật ký hành trình, lịch sử lẫn những câu chuyện kể.
Nó không chỉ là quyển sách về Kazakhstan tươi đẹp - quốc gia có diện tích lớn thứ 9 trên thế giới, rất rất giàu tài nguyên, được chứng minh là quê hương của cây táo và có thể là cả hoa tulip, về những người Kazakh du mục hiền hoà và hiếu khách, về thảo nguyên bát ngát và núi non hùng vĩ.
Kazakhstan trong quyển sách này hiện lên như một vùng đất bị vùi trong quên lãng trong cái bóng khổng lồ và bi thảm của Liên Xô cũ, trong cái lạnh âm vài chục độ khắc nghiệt và nơi cuộc chiến âm ỉ hàng nghìn năm của một quốc gia yếu thế hơn sống giữa hai siêu cường luôn cố gắng bành trướng lẫn tranh giành ảnh hưởng - Nga và Trung Quốc.

Đọc về Kazakhstan để hiểu về sự hà khắc và phi thực tế của chủ nghĩa cộng sản dẫn đến những thảm hoạ kinh tế, môi trường, diệt chủng, đạo đức xã hội, vv. Đọc về một Kazakhstan của nền dân chủ mới mẻ và bị phương Tây cáo buộc độc tài, toàn trị để hiểu rằng một nền dân chủ thực sự không thể được xây dựng ngày một ngày hai. Cái khác biệt trong buổi ban sơ của mọi nền dân chủ, và là vận may riêng của từng quốc gia, chính là người/đảng độc tài đó có lương tâm, có đủ tài năng và có tinh thần dân tộc không.

[Lisa · Rating 4 out of 5]

I knew nothing about Kazakhstan before picking up this book and now I feel like a mini-expert. This book is about Robbins' personal travels and experiences in Kazakhstan, along with some history and politics and background on the people and culture. A fun read with great sketches throughout the book that really enhanced the read for me.

[Sportyrod · Rating 5 out of 5]

Top class travel/modern history book about Kazakhstan. This book far exceeded my expectations. I loved every page.

The author covered so many interesting topics: the steppes, traditional clans, famous/infamous people, space stations, nuclear testing, gulag, the fall of USSR, new independence, voting integrity and so much more.

Travel to each fascinating place including snippets of fun trivia such as information on the historical journeys of the few others who passed by.

The author was constantly with the locals asking questions and feeling the common sentiment. He was lucky enough to make networks that gave him personal interviews with the Prime Minister of the time. That insight was priceless, we heard of how he handled independence and avoiding financial temptations to sell off uranium and bombs, of how he set up home ownership and relocating the capital (a previously undesirable part of the country). I am actually not into politics however I felt some kind of national pride about how inspirational this leader is. I could read more about him.

Most importantly, this author avoided the major downfall that many of his peers fall into the trap of...he did not inject himself too much into the narrative. He asks about certain topics and then focusses on the responses. There was a bit of humour to keep you interested but the story didn’t focus on getting to know the author or his feelings. Rather he observed, asked and reproduced an even view expressed by others.

I hope this author continues to write more about lesser known lands.

Note to the publisher: the book is so much better known as Apples are from Kazakhstan. That heading is so much more the core of the book and what got me interested in it.

I wish that everyone would read this book but realistically this book is probably more for those who like travel, modern history and background stories of interesting people.

[Deanne · Rating 4 out of 5]

Now feel I have to get my passport sorted out and take a trip to Kazakhstan, lots of things to see and people to meet.

[Pat · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a good travel book in that it makes you want to go and visit Kazakhstan. However, it's not your usual tourist book. There is a lot of history - both older (dating back to the Mongols from whom the Kazakhs are descended) and more recent (lots of info, both good and bad, about the Soviet era - many of the worst gulag prison camps were in Kazakhstan and this was where Solzhenitsyn spent his gulag days). There is also a much more nuanced picture of the current president of Kazakhstan than is often found in the news because of the author's ability to talk directly to the man. All in all, a very good book.

[Sophie · Rating 4 out of 5]

A very interesting book about Kazakhstan, who definitely is a very interesting country! I liked that it wasn't a history book, but that it spun the country's story and culture around anecdotes from the author's time there.

[Jo · Rating 5 out of 5]

Absolutely brilliant. Loved it, read it in two days (which is the equivalent of 'read it in one sitting', if you're the kind of person who is constantly being interrupted).

Mixture of history and travel book written by a man who became interested in Kazakhstan when he got chatting to somebody he met on a plane. He ends up spending lots of time there, even hanging out with the president, Sultan Nazarbayev. He visits the Polygon, where the Soviet scientists tested nuclear bombs, and the Aral Sea. He learns about the gulag - both Dostoevsky and Solzhenitsyn were sent into exile here.

Hmm, I've made Kazakhstan sound a bit depressing... It's not a depressing book at all - it's really optimistic, and honestly, Kazakhstan sounds great. The Soviet regime sounds bleak and miserable, but that's not a big surprise.

I have learnt so many random things - did you know apples are from Kazakhstan? And maybe King Arthur? But not Marilyn Monroe.

Anyway, I'm hoping this will finally be the start of the new grown up me, who whizzes through biographies and textbooks and encyclopaedias and so on for fun. But I've hoped that before.

[Christina · Rating 4 out of 5]

Liked what I read so far, especially since I knew nothing about Kazakhstan. (But I did know apples are from Kazakhstan!!! Thanks, MP!) Anyway, now I know slightly more about Kazakhstan, like that the first settlers were descendants of Genghis Khan, and today if you can prove you're descended from him you get to say you're part of the White Bone. Who knew? But the book was due August 14th and the library is getting mad at me, so the rest of Kazakhstan's secrets will have to wait to be revealed.

9/23 - sigh. Got suckered in and read the book in a mad dash before returning, even though it's QUITE overdue. Darn Robbins.

But this book is fascinating. Two weeks ago I couldn't have told you more than three things about Kazakhstan, but now I feel like I know the country at some real level - its past, its people and the complexities of what it means to be a country. Robbins says as much in his book, since he didn't know much about Kazakhstan either at the start of it. So, I applaud his book and my newfound appreciation for the country that King Arthur came from.

[Alexis · Rating 3 out of 5]

This is an easy-to-read and charming book. It's distinguished from the usual travelogue writing by the author's interviews with the president of the country which make up several chapters in the second half.

My favorite part of the book is the description of how Kazakhstan got its own currency, the tenge, through a covert operation!

There is a lot of introductory information about Kazakhstan, in line with the author's contention that most people know nothing about it. The book is overwhelmingly gung-ho about the country which some people might feel is a little naive but it's definitely worth it as a first look.

Another good book about the area is Ryszard Kapuscinski's Imperium, which is a kind of journalistic memoir of a number of former USSR countries. It's certainly not as easy to follow as this book if, like me, you're completely unfamiliar with these areas or their history, but you can pick up a lot and the writing is very evocative.

[Leslie · Rating 4 out of 5]

"I stopped at an ATM at the corner of a street where a camel stood nonchalantly snacking on a small tree... The camel held my gaze for a moment, turned away, made a final tug at the indigestible tree, and moved on. In the meantime there was the familiar whirring sound of the ATM's electronic count, and out popped exotic, crisp tenge notes, a currency made unique in that it was introduced by stealth in a top-secret operation."

This was a fascinating read - at times fast-paced and light-hearted, and at other times a slog through Soviet history of the area, which was interesting in itself, just hard to read. Kazakhstan is one of those places no one knows anything about, but which has a rich history and culture. And... apples truly come from Kazakhstan.

[Ann Costello · Rating 4 out of 5]

Apparently, apples really do come from Kazakhstan which is, according to the author, "one of the largest and least known places on earth." Very interesting book. I learned a lot about that part of the world, most of it positive. British author and publisher in quite a dense font.

[Minna · Rating 4 out of 5]

So interesting (I love taking a peek into another culture) and informative- so informative that I felt rather ignorant about much of world history in Central Asia.
I enjoyed Robbins' writing style and how he chose to introduce the range of material.
I would recommend this book to anyone.

[bethany m. planton · Rating 5 out of 5]

I absolutely LOVED this book! Such an interesting, insightful, yet extremely entertaining read.

[Luisa · Rating 2 out of 5]

In terms of historical anecdotes this is an nice book to read, especially if you don’t know anything about the country. There’s also some interesting interviews, amongst them one with a man that survived a Gulag camp.

HOWEVER

The writer seems to think he’s making impressive and clever observations, while in fact he’s … not … Moreover, the comments he makes about the locals, and most women, are negative and rude. There also seems to be a general lack of female interviewees.

The book lacks critical thinking towards the (now ex) president of Kazakhstan: Nursultan Nazarbayev. At the time of the publication of the book the president was already 17(!!) years in power. Something that could’ve been a clear sign to the author to perhaps think critically about the president and his politics. The fact the president invites a (not so famous) Western writer who’s writing a book about Kazakhstan and who clearly stated he doesn’t know anything about the country, says enough. Just a little bit of critical thinking would help you to the conclusion that Nazarbayev clearly grabbed the chance to use this book to support his personality cult towards Western readers that, just like the writer, do not know anything about the country or its politics.

Especially reading the second half of the book was hard to get through, because it feeds into the personality cult of Kazakhstan’s (then current) president. The author *attempted* to do some form of critical research, but he failed to do so as he didnt’s seek out (enough) proper and trustworthy sources. Besides that, he repeatedly ridicules people from the West that were critical of the president. Clearly the author also fell for the personality cult and propaganda. The glorification of Nazarbayev throughout the book really made the experience of reading this book a challenge, which is why I am giving it only two stars.

[Becky · Rating 4 out of 5]

I really enjoyed this book. While there were some parts that were not so interesting to me about the more distant history of Kazakhstan, for the most part this was an interesting glimpse into a country about which I knew absolutely nothing.

A few interesting facts:

- Kazakhstan is a mix of many different ethnic groups, a lot due to the fact that so many groups of people were exiled to Kazakhstan under Stalin. According this book, there isn't a lot of conflict between these ethnic groups.

- In 1997, the capital was moved to Astana, which was pretty much in the middle of nowhere in Kazakhstan. Now a huge city has developed there. Picture in your head what you would guess this city might look like. Now do a Google image search for it. Are you surprised? I was too. That is not what my stereotype of Kazakhstan was at all.

- It gets really cold in Kazakhstan. Like really amazingly cold. I couldn't even read the descriptions of what happened to some guy who fell asleep outside without his mittens. Frostbite is a scary thing.

- In 2006, the president of Kazakhstan built the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation, a pyramid structure which has spaces for all the different religions present in Kazakhstan to come worship. It is built like a pyramid, because that shape is not tied to any major religion. (This is another interesting Google image search).

- Kazakhstan has all kinds of oil and mineral reserves which leads to tons of money coming in, so they also build things like the Khan Shatyr Entertainment Center, a giant yurt-like structure that includes a boating river, shopping center, mini-golf and indoor beach resort. So Kazakhs have a fun warm place to hang out in the brutal winters. (this will be the last time I suggest a Google image search)

- Falconry is also big in the Kazakh steppe. Falcons seem to be terrifying animals, but when trained by a falconer can be awesome hunting companions.

- And while this isn't interesting in the same way as the other facts, the brutality of Stalin and the gulag system has left a mark on Kazakh history and many Kazakhs. The power of the human spirit and body to survive such utter brutality and hopelessness is astounding.

[Keval · Rating 4 out of 5]

The reviews for this book claimed it is hilarious and fascinating. I couldn't agree more.

I like Robbins' writing style and I love the fact that a map of the country is printed in the copy I picked up. It gives some perspective about what he describes, and goes a long way in giving one a sense of where exactly specific places he's at are.

Part travel, part memoir, but fully educational! There's so much about this country that people don't know -- its history, politics, economy, etc. I, for one, would have dismissed President Nazarbayev as yet another despot, but Robbins seems to suggest the guy is genuinely interested in the well-being of his country and his people. However, I'd have liked to know a bit more about other socioeconomic markers -- the level of poverty, for example.

Apples Are From Kazakhstan was on my to-read list for a couple of months, and I'm glad I have read it. The book is one of the few I have thoroughly enjoyed in recent weeks, so coming to the end of it was a bummer.

On the bright side, I cannot wait to visit Kazakhstan. :)

[librarian4Him02 · Rating 5 out of 5]

I picked up this book because our Church has a sister church based in Almaty. When I saw this book appear on my library's "new books" list, I was immediately intrigued.

During a flight from London to Moscow, the author of this book met a man who told him, "Apples are from Kazakhstan." Robbins was intrigued and a couple years later, journeyed to the country to learn its history and culture. Robbins interweaves Soviet/USSR history with stories about Kazakh peoples. He creates a readable experience that brings to life a country that virtually disappeared during the Soviet regime. Since achieving independence nearly 10 years ago, Kazakhstan has come a long way. There is now more hope and a brighter future ahead for this country.

This book gave me a better grasp of the country where our sister church is located. I highly recommend this book to fans of Soviet history or who like to travel to different places by way of books.

[Wade · Rating 4 out of 5]

I read the original British edition of this book published as In Search of Kazakhstan. In that edition, the author mentions that he much prefers the Apples title, which I see he finally got in the American version. It's a great read, especially for the historically minded. I agree with lots of the positive points made by other Goodreads reviewers. The ideas and viewpoints taken from the presidential interviews are unexpectedly interesting and full of surprises, though Robbins may have been a little too credulous.

[Ian · Rating 4 out of 5]

I really enjoyed this book that completely debunks the crass cultural stereotyping of Borat. It is however a lot more serious than the GR synopsis makes it out to be. As well as finding some very funny cultural stories, explaining the roots of the nation and describing some stunning scenery and animal life, the bulk of the book concerns politics and recent history. What is facinating and enlightening is the fate of Kazakhstan post the creation of the Soviet Union and its politics post independence.

[Deniss Ojastu · Rating 5 out of 5]

As a person who lived and travelled around Kazakhstan for a year, I found this book highly familiar, educating and hillarious. Robbins has a great talent of going from small but significant details he had observed to the broad perspective on the history, economics and societal development of the country.

I particulalrly enjoyed biographical accounts of people related to Kazakhstan, such as Trotsky, Solzhenitsyn, Nazarbayev, even Gorbachev and Yeltsin. Robbins manages to bring out controversies related to both all these individuals as well as the country as a whole.

[Rob Hellewell · Rating 5 out of 5]

A worthy tribute to one of the world’s least understood countries. Kazakhstan is equal parts desolate, harsh and beautiful, yet capable of bringing out the very best in humankind. I enjoy so much about this amazing country, from the incongruity of Astana’s architecture, the endless steppe and the ancient streets of Almaty.

[Sarah · Rating 5 out of 5]

A fantastic blend of storytelling and facts. After visiting Kazakhstan myself I was especially interested in the historical background of this hidden gem of a country, which most people (myself included) only know from the movie Borat. I highly recommend this book for anyone with an interest in USSR history or broadening their knowledge of Central Asian culture. Or just fans of good writing :)