Hard Road West: History and Geology along the Gold Rush Trail

by Keith Heyer Meldahl

In 1848 news of the discovery of gold in California triggered an enormous wave of emigration toward the Pacific. Lured by the promise of riches, thousands of settlers left behind the forests, rain, and fertile soil of the eastern United States in favor of the rough-hewn lands of the American West. The dramatic terrain they struggled to cross is so familiar to us now that it is hard to imagine how frightening—even godforsaken—its sheer rock faces and barren deserts seemed to our forebears.
       

Hard Road West brings their perspective vividly to life, weaving together the epic overland journey of the covered wagon trains and the compelling story of the landscape they encountered. Taking readers along the 2,000-mile California Trail, Keith Meldahl uses the diaries and letters of the settlers themselves—as well as the countless hours he has spent following the trail—to reveal how the geology and geography of the West directly affected our nation’s westward expansion. He guides us through a corrugated landscape of sawtooth mountains, following the meager streams that served as lifelines through an arid land, all the way to California itself, where colliding tectonic plates created breathtaking scenery and planted the gold that lured travelers west in the first place.
 
“Alternates seamlessly between vivid accounts of the 19th-century journey and lucid explanations of the geological events that shaped the landscape traveled. . . . The reader comes away with both an appreciation for the arduous cross-continental wagon journey and an understanding of the events that created such a vast and difficult landscape.”— Library Journal

 


“[Meldahl] draws on his professional knowledge to explain the geology of the West, showing how centuries of geological activity had a direct effect on the routes taken by the travelers. . . . Meldahl provides a novel account of the largest overland migration since the Crusades.”— Science News

Genres: History, Geology, Science, Nonfiction, American History, Geography, Travel

329 pages, Hardcover

First published November 1, 2007

Reviews

[David · Rating 5 out of 5]

An actual professional geologist recommended this book to me as a great book about geology for the general reader. I don’t know a lot about geology, and I agree: it’s a great book, full of interesting and well-presented information, embedded in a story with human interest. In addition, it makes you feel glad you are living now and not then (i.e., the 1850s), so it's also a great gift for anybody who mopes around with the ridiculous idea that things are worse today than they used to be.

For the book club, I roped the actual geologist mentioned above into co-leading the discussion with self. I swear, the reason was NOT because I wanted to read a book by a man for a change. Really. It is because I love to read a book where, at the end, I feel like I know more than at the beginning. This book filled this requirement admirably.

Other people apparently read because solely they wish to be entertained, which I certainly understand, and more power to them. In this day and age, I salute anyone who reads anything, for any reason, up to and including the sides of cereal boxes. Sorry, I digressed.

The author fills the first six chapters with mostly well-researched narrative history, with comparatively little geology. It draws heavily on the archived written recollections of those who actually endured the pre-railroad long trek, largely on foot, starting from or near Missouri, to California. The pioneers sought to participate, directly or indirectly, in the gold-fueled prosperity. Many of them left detailed written records of their journey (and afterwards), which are fascinating to read.

Chapter seven is a big hard slab of pure geology, which I found difficult to understand, but then again, I brought this on myself by insisting on trying to remedy my woefully inadequate education. So, I carried on, as fast as I could move my lips.

The author has a gift for striking, if occasionally bizarre, images to illustrate geological phenomenon. Here's an example from chapter nine (p. 239):

Imagine lying on your back underneath a trailer home holding a sawed-off shotgun, pointing up. As the trailing rolls away, you squeeze off a series of shots. Someone inside the trailer sees the floor-boards explode in a line of holes from one end to the other. The trailer is the North American Plate, the floorboard holes are the line of Snake River Plate-to-Yellowstone calderas, and the stationary shotgun represents a mantle plume – a column of incandescent rock rising up through the mantle. As the North American Plate slides along, the mantle plume beneath it periodically uncorks a caldera-forming eruption.

There are also helpful illustrations and photographs throughout the book to understand the concepts, including the one immediately previous. The only problem I had with the concept illustrated by this quote was: as soon as I finished patting myself on the back for understanding it, I learned that the theory encased therein (long accepted as true) has recently experienced some sawed-off-shotgun-blast-sized holes itself, and the author himself is skeptical – “When a theory fails to yield evidence of its most basic predictions, you have to wonder whether it's time to file for divorce.” Then I had to try to understand possible alternative explanations. I said silently: You brought this on yourself.

My geologist friend recommended that I get a physical copy of this book, but my dwelling is already suffering from cartoon bulge lines from the excess of books contained therein, so I went with the Kindle edition. However, the Kindle does not adequately display the graphics and photographs, esp. if you need the assistance of reading glasses. Happily, downloading the book onto both the Kindle device AND the Kindle app on my tablet yielded a result that was actually superior, in my sight, to a physical book, as I could simultaneously glance at the graphic on the tablet while reading the text it referred to on the ebook reader. This entailed pushing the cat off my chest in bed and propping the tablet on my copious stomach, which served admirably, but I understand that not everyone is so fortunate.

I have questions for my geologist friend, esp. about volcanoes. Some of them may have actually been answered in the book, but I think occasionally a piece of edifying information may have gone skittering by me. For example, geologists can apparently tell that dust from far-distant and long-ago volcanic eruptions originated from one particular volcano at one particular time. How do they know?

Perhaps the only negative consequence of reading this book is that I now wish to drive from Independence, Missouri, to Sacramento, California, stopping frequently to see all of this stuff for myself, ebook reader and tablet in tow. The Long-Suffering Wife is used to going along with my whims, but I think that this will be too much, even for her.

[Larry Schwartz]

It's about the West, it's about history, it's about geology: what's not to like?

[Priscilla · Rating 5 out of 5]

2011:
Wow! I come away with a hugely improved grasp of plate tectonics, mountain building, continental drift, etc. Also with a sense of amazement about human endurance.

2024:
Back again reading sections of this terrific book. Picked it up again to better understand what I see in Colorado and (soon) Arizona. Meldahl’s use of metaphors to explain mountain-building processes is masterful. I always list this book toward the top of my list of best-ever.

[Vic Bondi · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great Book. One of the best introductions to general Geology you could find. Mixes Geology and History together in clear and engaging fashion.

[Lin F · Rating 5 out of 5]

The best combination of history and geology that I could imagine.

[Charissa · Rating 4 out of 5]

A great mix of the human history of the overland trails and the geology that formed the area they traversed. I so enjoyed learning about these people and places that make up important parts of our American history (and geography). What fun it was for our family to visit some of the places mentioned in the book! That was one of the best parts. :)

[Valarie · Rating 5 out of 5]

One of the best non-fiction books I have read in a very long time. The author couples excellent concepts in geology with mid-1800 American history covering the travails of those who sought new lives and fortunes in the West along the California -Oregon Trail. Highly recommended.

[Jonathan · Rating 5 out of 5]

I throughly enjoyed Hard Road West. The story the author tells is so captivating and intriguing. I loved every minute of reading this book! Well researched full of primary sources. J. Goldsborough Bruff's drawing are used and with the authors great writing a full exciting yet dangerous and exhilarating tale is revealed. A must read book! I will re-read this book again. Definitely a keeper to tell family and friends about!

[Matt Lybbert · Rating 5 out of 5]

I adored this book. I love the geology of the American West, as well as tales of the overland migration.

[Heather · Rating 4 out of 5]

Such a clever book - telling the geological history of the landscape alongside the social history of the pioneers crossing the Oregon/California trail. The descriptions from the pioneers of the landscapes they encountered were incredible - they hauled their wagons over terrain they didn't quite understand. Why did that stream cut its way through that hillside when it could have more easily meandered upstream with no need to cut through any giant rocks? The author describes the reasons for the layman - the answer is that the stream used to run above the rocks. I loved hearing their thoughts about the dramatic rocky outcrops - Scott's Bluff, Independence Rock, Rock City and Chimney Rock. But, most of what they saw was murk and misery - I tried to imagine myself walking alongside them during the stretch beside the miserable Humboldt River. Finally Meldahl describes how gold was formed in California and Nevada - few became wealthy and must have wondered whether the trip could possibly have been worth it. A perfect supplement to "The Oregon Trail" by Rinker Buck and the equally fabulous "The Indifferent Stars Above".

[Travis Stone · Rating 5 out of 5]

I was told by a friend that the concept of this book seemed very niche, and on the surface, it might seem like that's the case; however, I found this story of how the geology of North America influenced the brutal California trail to be a fascinating story that anybody could relate to and learn from. Well written and paced, Hard Road West has something for everyone. I came in well versed on the geology, and loved learning about the history of the trail, some might be the other way around or learn from both sides of the story.

[Maggie Hannis · Rating 5 out of 5]

Each time I went backpacking in the Sierra Nevadas this summer, I looked at my surroundings and was faced with a swirl of unanswerable questions. Why are some mountains rust-colored while the rest are grey? How the hell are there fish in an 8,000 foot alpine lake? What's up with that butte over there? Were the emigrants really hauling their damn wagons through these treacherous mountain passes?
This book answered most of my questions. Highly recommend for anyone taking a road trip out West; you'll have a much more interesting time exploring the scenery with the geological context in mind.

[Jim Hart · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book was not only incredibly well written and informative, but inspiring. Meldahl's ability to link history with geology makes geological story telling even more relevant and exciting. His connection of the two fields is brilliant. Although I began to understand the intimate link between the land and the emigrants as I read each chapter, it all came together perfectly in the short chapter on contingent history. After this read, I'm inspired to explore the Oregon Trail myself.

[Cindy Dyson Eitelman · Rating 4 out of 5]

Great work of geology but I wanted more history! It took me a terribly long time to finish because I kept putting it down and couldn't pick back up. But still, it's well-written and full of cool stuff.

So I'm saving it for future reference when I finally get to travel along parts of the trail and other areas of the west. Recommended to any geology buffs for sure.

[Austin Montgomery · Rating 4 out of 5]

I got this book for my brother who is majoring in geology. He absolutely loved it and told me to give it a try. I walk away with a much greater appreciation of the West’s landscape and the geological forces which formed it. Perhaps geology is not such a drag after all.

[Naomi · Rating 5 out of 5]

A really interesting history of the California gold rush and the geology of the west!

[Nissa · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great telling of Western Geology.

[Andrea Renfrow · Rating 5 out of 5]

Excellent and fascinating.

[James Bechtel · Rating 4 out of 5]

4.5 stars. Much better than I was expecting. Excellent on geology.

[Bonnye Reed]

My Birthday gift to me

[Amy Field · Rating 4 out of 5]

At its best in chapters with detailed descriptions of the geology of North America.

[Sarah Jowett · Rating 5 out of 5]

Super amazing book, combining the geological history with the path and experience of traveling over it brings out alot of new insights.

[Tim · Rating 5 out of 5]

Wonderful mix of a history of the mid-1800's trails to the western US gold fields, and the geology of the land through which they passed.

[Erica · Rating 5 out of 5]

Starting out, I wasn't quite as thrilled with this book as I later became. I wasn't quite what I was expecting. I was thinking it was going to cover the journey of the gold seekers, but it could have just as easily been the migration of any group of people as it was generic is this sense. Actual historical gold rushers weren't even mentioned until the last chapter. But once I got over the fact that it wasn't tackling the subject in the way I was expecting, I really grew to love it.

M. gives us a step by step overview of the California trail and all the geology encountered along it. It's more a general geology review of the geologic provinces they traveled through (they- being any west bound emigrant)explaining the concepts behind the fold and thrust belt, the basin and range, the Snake River plain, the Sierra uplift, etc. The book is speckled though with writings of actual emigrants,and their observations of these features along the trail.

Although most of the geology was old hat, I was happy to have learned a few things. Most notably, I never quite grasped why the eastern Rockies, the stuff clear over in eastern Wyoming and Colorado were really there. I was happy to find the cause in these deep basement uplifts of the Laramide Orogeny. Hmmm, I wonder that we ever covered that in school? Also, surprised that I had never heard of the exhumation of the Rockies. All in all I feel like I better grasp why the Rockies are, excepting now I am wondering what the Ancestral Rockies are.
I also learned the sources of the gold that the 49's were after. I had never realized that they were blasting down old "fossil" stream channels that had drained Nevada before the Sierra had risen. On top of that there is a suture between the west side of the Sierra and an accreted terrane that hosted the Mother Load,- quartz/gold veins that filled the suture zone. I had before assumed that the load type gold was washed into the streams and that is what they were hydraulically mining.

Overall, a really good read. Well written, though at first, I though he was too into trying to copy McPhee in style. Even the cover says, "Fans of McPhee will find many familiar pleasures.." But I think he finally got into his own style and pulled out a great book. Could have been made better had he brought the actual personalities into it a little bit more...they were really only sidecars to the journey. Had the people had motives to get across the west, and stories to tell, it would have brought a little more depth to the story. Instead they seemed to be generic emigrants, commenting from their journals only on the topography of the land.

[Chris Gager · Rating 4 out of 5]

I'm picking this up from the Bath library today. I ordered it based on a recommendation in a magazine article(I think). Supposed to be a great book. I hope I can hack the geology... Day one: So far the science is do-able and the rest is fascinating. I've been across the continent a few time by car and train taking various routes except the most northern. I recommend the train trip between Oakland(Emeryville)and Denver on the Zephyr. It's beautiful and follows a lot of the route(s) described in this book. Day two and about halfway through. Lots of maps and diagrams help to tell both stories: travelers and landscape. I just finished a chapter with lots of geology and it was kind of a slog but now I'll be back with the wagon trains for a while. I like that better although the geology will probably go smoother now that I've learned some of it. The story of the planet in general and more specifically the Rockies is interesting but it's - you know - science. All finished now as of a couple of days ago. The geology continued to be borderline readable for me but I was able to understand enough of it to "be" where the author wanted me to be and that was to understand both stories. Still, I wouldn't call it a "great" book. If there'd been any Humane Society presence out West at the time they'd have been thoroughly appalled at the animal suffering and death. All in the name of "progress".

[Robert · Rating 4 out of 5]

More science than history, Meldahl conveys the geological formation of the American West from the perspective of the mid-nineteenth century emigrants who traversed it during the great American migration. Unable to explain it for themselves, those seeking gold in California found the formations of rock and cutting rivers both divinely beautiful and devilishly encumbering for their covered-wagon parties. Meldahl explains why the trail was so difficult for the emigrants in terms of the tectonic forces that shaped the route. The book is full of photographs, maps and drawings that justify the dramatic undertones of the emigrant’s accounts. Also, Meldahl explains the dynamics of geology and loosly explains how eons of compression, expansion, uplift and erosion have not only shaped the events of America’s very recent past (accumulation of gold in the Sierra Nevada foothills) but will also continue to sway our future. Meldahl only passively, and to the dissappointment of the reader, suggests that the events of the Civil War et al could have been drastically altered without the bravery of so many fortune seekers. Overall, a fascinating read for someone light on geology who wants to know more about the intent behind the raw beauty of nature.

[Linda · Rating 5 out of 5]

Loved this book! Has plenty of maps and diagrams and Meldahl finally made a couple of my favorite geological topics understandable. Geology has to do with landscape, and the tough landscape of the West severely affected the wagon trains to the California Gold Rush. He summarizes their travels well and provides nuggets from their diaries. I always enjoy pioneer tales, but who knew the number of dead animals caused a stench mile after mile. After a Nevada roadtrip paralleling part of their trail, I can't imagine walking even a mile across that dusty, upheaved ground. Long live the Laramide Orogeny!

[JMM · Rating 5 out of 5]

Meldahl intertwines geologic history with accounts from early travelers to the west to show in fascinating detail how the emigrant experience was shaped by forces millions of years in the past. Many of the concepts were new to me so I had to do some careful reading but the author's clear style combined with generous and detailed illustrations helped me understand. I look forward to someday taking this book along on a road trip of the west to reread and see for myself the features of the landscape that the author describes.

[K.A. Krisko · Rating 4 out of 5]

I read this as the first in a stack of western emigrant history books when I got hooked on the time period recently. I figured I'd start with the geology and then move to the people...I really came out with a much clearer understanding of why the emigrant routes went the ways they did, what the obstacles were, and why things tended to fall apart where they did. If you're a fan of John McPhee this should be right up your alley. On the other hand, it's not fast reading (at least not for me). Plan to take some time with it.

[C. · Rating 5 out of 5]

Very informative and easy read about the Oregon-California Trail,the gold rush,and the geology of the western U.S.

I was very pleased with what an engaging read the book "Hard Road West: History and Geology along the Gold Rush Trail" is. Very well written,and the personal accounts from the emigrant's diaries added to my reading pleasure,as did the black & white maps and hand drawn sketches.Read in one sitting.

I enjoyed this book very much and highly recommend it for those interested in this period of American history.