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Gendering the Trans-Pacific World #3
Tikim: Essays on Philippine Food and Culture
FROM THE BOOK
What's Cooking? "The old and the new. The provincial and the pop. The slow and the fast. The past, the present, the future. That's what's cooking in Philippine cuisine. Which means that, as the most popular (people-created, people-processed and people-consumed) segment of popular culture, it is dynamic and changing, living and lively."
Writing about Food. "When one describes food, one does not use words alone, but the readers' remembering as well -- of past pleasures, savored sensations. One writes on and with the readers' palates, alluding to food tasted as children, drawing on their reservoirs of pleasure. In effect, one draws on all of the culture that shaped oneself and one's readers."
On Mangoes. “... we wager that the mango memories of many a Filipino still revolve around the fruit ripening to fragrance in Maytime; around fat golden halves dripping their juice on glistening suman in Antipolo; around mangoes peeled whole with the hands on farms and at fiestas...to drip on chin and clothes; around mangoes chilled in river water rather than in refrigerators, while the feasters-to-be swim in the rivers of childhood; around mangoes sweet because stolen from consenting uncles or neighbors; around the fruit not as commercial product, but as pledge of time and season and memory."
What's Cooking? "The old and the new. The provincial and the pop. The slow and the fast. The past, the present, the future. That's what's cooking in Philippine cuisine. Which means that, as the most popular (people-created, people-processed and people-consumed) segment of popular culture, it is dynamic and changing, living and lively."
Writing about Food. "When one describes food, one does not use words alone, but the readers' remembering as well -- of past pleasures, savored sensations. One writes on and with the readers' palates, alluding to food tasted as children, drawing on their reservoirs of pleasure. In effect, one draws on all of the culture that shaped oneself and one's readers."
On Mangoes. “... we wager that the mango memories of many a Filipino still revolve around the fruit ripening to fragrance in Maytime; around fat golden halves dripping their juice on glistening suman in Antipolo; around mangoes peeled whole with the hands on farms and at fiestas...to drip on chin and clothes; around mangoes chilled in river water rather than in refrigerators, while the feasters-to-be swim in the rivers of childhood; around mangoes sweet because stolen from consenting uncles or neighbors; around the fruit not as commercial product, but as pledge of time and season and memory."
255 pages, Paperback
First published January 1, 1994
128 people are currently reading
1650 people want to read
About the author
Doreen G. Fernandez
26 books41 followersDoreen Gamboa Fernandez (28 October 1934 – 24 June 2002) was a Filipino professor, historian, writer and critic best known for her writings on Filipino food, food culture, and the theater arts. Apart from many books and academic articles, she wrote a regular column on food and dining for the Philippine Daily Inquirer. She taught English at Ateneo de Manila University (ADMU), serving also as head of the Communication Department and moderator of the student newspaper.
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 51 reviews
October 1, 2025
It was on IG that I saw this work, and it's because of cultural curiosity that I took an interest. Tikim in Filipino is to taste test, and my palate is well-acquainted with the tastes of Philippine cuisine especially the flavors from the Tagalog and Kapampangan regions but I can still be naïve of anywhere else's, save for the choices of local fare or snacks I got to try later on during domestic travels. So here, tikman ang iba pang hain, taste what else are offered.
Published in 1994, this essay collection is in English frequently interspersed with terms and phrases in Filipino, some in other local languages. The effort in translation is evident in line as they occur, and in glossary as well. However, quite a handful escaped them (e.g. aligue, putong sulot, okoy, masabaw, pamatid-gutom). The last two parts bear full sentences of untranslated Filipino and Spanish excerpts from literatures. So ultimately, it can be said that this was put together for those who are versed in the language and context.
The social clout of the author during the decades she was writing her pieces is also very apparent. Readers, through author invitations, are taken to the hometowns of middle class and elite families to experience their food culture. As how a guest would partake in open house during fiesta, and recognize identical dishes from one table to another, it is wise here to skim, cherry pick, and skip topics already discussed prior. Else, get full early and leave no room for specials, maumay (be sick because of excess flavor) or maimpacho (suffer from indigestion). The redundancies can be expected with compiled weekly columns, but editing will certainly do it favor.
Here are my appreciated sections and tidbits from the book:
1. Street food lifestyle of Filipinos explained. It being a product of low-cash economy.
2. How the indigenous cuisine is very often inihaw (grilled), pinasingaw (steamed), nilaga (stewed/boiled). And always with sawsawan (dipping sauce).
3. Four main flavors of our food: salty, sour, bitter & sweet. Enhancers to these basic flavors are ginger and chili. An interesting 'flavor footnote': pakla of green, unripe banana used in nilupak & pinasugbo.
4. Food in Philippine Literature. Select passages from Filipiniana works depicting any of the sourcing, preparation, and/or consumption of food by characters.
5. Filipino food described as a 'cuisine of freshness', explained as improvisatory, flexible, and homegrown; based on the 'arbitrariness' of ingredients depending on the landscape and season; and measurements based not on implements but on common sense.
6. The collective memory of sharing food with family and friends during holidays, feasts, and occasions. Other's reminiscences forming part of yours.
7. The mention of my parents' home provinces for their Pan de San Nicolas cookies of Pampanga, and Bulacan's sweet and peppery tamales wrapped in banana leaf very different from how it is elsewhere. Both I knew and tasted.
A chico fruit trivia: The name of Mexico, Pampanga says a historian from that province that its name came from 'masicu' referring to the abundance of chico there.
8. The compelling explainer on the transculturation and indigenization of foreign influences.
Not only did this collection serve food thoughts in grandmum's lazy Susan on an antique narra table, it also revealed to me windows to occasions during my growing up at the mere mention of a familiar fare, fruits, sweets or delicacy I relished (or refused) at the time.
Published in 1994, this essay collection is in English frequently interspersed with terms and phrases in Filipino, some in other local languages. The effort in translation is evident in line as they occur, and in glossary as well. However, quite a handful escaped them (e.g. aligue, putong sulot, okoy, masabaw, pamatid-gutom). The last two parts bear full sentences of untranslated Filipino and Spanish excerpts from literatures. So ultimately, it can be said that this was put together for those who are versed in the language and context.
The social clout of the author during the decades she was writing her pieces is also very apparent. Readers, through author invitations, are taken to the hometowns of middle class and elite families to experience their food culture. As how a guest would partake in open house during fiesta, and recognize identical dishes from one table to another, it is wise here to skim, cherry pick, and skip topics already discussed prior. Else, get full early and leave no room for specials, maumay (be sick because of excess flavor) or maimpacho (suffer from indigestion). The redundancies can be expected with compiled weekly columns, but editing will certainly do it favor.
Here are my appreciated sections and tidbits from the book:
1. Street food lifestyle of Filipinos explained. It being a product of low-cash economy.
2. How the indigenous cuisine is very often inihaw (grilled), pinasingaw (steamed), nilaga (stewed/boiled). And always with sawsawan (dipping sauce).
3. Four main flavors of our food: salty, sour, bitter & sweet. Enhancers to these basic flavors are ginger and chili. An interesting 'flavor footnote': pakla of green, unripe banana used in nilupak & pinasugbo.
4. Food in Philippine Literature. Select passages from Filipiniana works depicting any of the sourcing, preparation, and/or consumption of food by characters.
e.g. 'Not yet!' Aunt Isabel called out to the boatman's son... 'We must get the sinigang ready so the fish can go directly from the water to the broth.'
—from Chapter 23, A Fishing Expedition, Noli Me Tangere by Jose Rizal
5. Filipino food described as a 'cuisine of freshness', explained as improvisatory, flexible, and homegrown; based on the 'arbitrariness' of ingredients depending on the landscape and season; and measurements based not on implements but on common sense.
6. The collective memory of sharing food with family and friends during holidays, feasts, and occasions. Other's reminiscences forming part of yours.
7. The mention of my parents' home provinces for their Pan de San Nicolas cookies of Pampanga, and Bulacan's sweet and peppery tamales wrapped in banana leaf very different from how it is elsewhere. Both I knew and tasted.
A chico fruit trivia: The name of Mexico, Pampanga says a historian from that province that its name came from 'masicu' referring to the abundance of chico there.
8. The compelling explainer on the transculturation and indigenization of foreign influences.
Not only did this collection serve food thoughts in grandmum's lazy Susan on an antique narra table, it also revealed to me windows to occasions during my growing up at the mere mention of a familiar fare, fruits, sweets or delicacy I relished (or refused) at the time.
What is Philippine food? The answer can be neither brief nor simple... One must answer: all of the above. The assimilation of these foods has not, however, been slavish. Always, it has involved indigenization, in which tastes are adjusted to the Filipino palate."
January 10, 2021
In recent years, there has been a growing interest in Philippine cuisine, at least pre-COVID, just as there seems to be a rise in Fil-Am literature in the US. This interest reached new heights in 2019 when NYT decided to do a feature on the late Doreen Fernandez, a Filipina food writer and historian.
I was one of those who picked up a copy of this collection of essays when Anvil decided to republish it again in early 2020s. I read it over the quarantine period last year, one article at a time, simultaneously with other books. The essays touched on a variety of topics, such as Philippine street food, different regional flavors and preferences, colonial influences, on fiestas, on drinking habits, and even on first cookbooks and the menu during the Malolos Congress or the inauguration of the First Philippine Republic.
I thought the writing was how food writing should be, poetic at times, nostalgic, does not clutter the sentences with adjectives but instead her magic lies in letting the process of making the dishes speak for itself: how they’re made, their sources, who prepares, who champions, and connect them with history, with the traditions, and the way the people live.
Just a note, because these are a collection of articles that were earlier published in different dailies, there were some topics that recur, but that I did not mind, the advantage of reading it across a long stretch of time is that it was okay for me to be reminded of some of her themes even if they’re supposed to be under different articles. I also noticed that a handful of prominent families were usually featured in the essays, and the mention of these families would be repeated across articles, which then hammers home the idea of how these handful of families have such big influences on shaping our culture and our development as a nation.
I hope to see more Doreen Fernandez-type of writing on our food scene. For one, I wonder how she’d think of this Instagram era of food? I wonder what she’d think about the growing influences of South Korean cooking, this fetish with steak (I’m craving now), food in the time of COVID, and the rise in social media-led food trends. This book is a feast for the senses, and it’s inspiring.
I was one of those who picked up a copy of this collection of essays when Anvil decided to republish it again in early 2020s. I read it over the quarantine period last year, one article at a time, simultaneously with other books. The essays touched on a variety of topics, such as Philippine street food, different regional flavors and preferences, colonial influences, on fiestas, on drinking habits, and even on first cookbooks and the menu during the Malolos Congress or the inauguration of the First Philippine Republic.
I thought the writing was how food writing should be, poetic at times, nostalgic, does not clutter the sentences with adjectives but instead her magic lies in letting the process of making the dishes speak for itself: how they’re made, their sources, who prepares, who champions, and connect them with history, with the traditions, and the way the people live.
Just a note, because these are a collection of articles that were earlier published in different dailies, there were some topics that recur, but that I did not mind, the advantage of reading it across a long stretch of time is that it was okay for me to be reminded of some of her themes even if they’re supposed to be under different articles. I also noticed that a handful of prominent families were usually featured in the essays, and the mention of these families would be repeated across articles, which then hammers home the idea of how these handful of families have such big influences on shaping our culture and our development as a nation.
I hope to see more Doreen Fernandez-type of writing on our food scene. For one, I wonder how she’d think of this Instagram era of food? I wonder what she’d think about the growing influences of South Korean cooking, this fetish with steak (I’m craving now), food in the time of COVID, and the rise in social media-led food trends. This book is a feast for the senses, and it’s inspiring.
July 16, 2022
I was unable to read every essay in this collection, but one entry in particular awoke such deep memories in my body that for ten minutes I was back in my Lolo's kitchen watching him gather new oil spots, feeling the heat and the sour sting of his sinigang. That's something only food-writing can do, and for that memory I extend my deepest gratitude.
May 14, 2019
This book is HARD. TO. FIND. It's out of print and the going rate for used copies online seems to be about $200! I was luckily able to get it on inter-library loan.
The volume is basically a collection of magazine columns that Fernandez wrote, I think mostly during the 1980s, with a couple of more academic articles mixed in. Like any collection-based work, it has its higher and lower points. For me, it was extremely interesting to read a Filipina writing about food for Filipina/os rather than for Americans or a global audience. Compare this book, for example, to the recent "I Am A Filipino" by Nicole Ponseca. The latter, while also great and worthwhile, spends its time covering the basics and thus doesn't dive deep on anything. In "Tikim," on the other hand, Fernandez assumes that the reader is generally conversant in Filipino food, meaning that she can go into more depth on things such as different varieties of shrimp found throughout the archipelago or traditional cooking pots. There is also a decent amount of untranslated Tagalog and Spanish (the latter from old cookbooks), which could be difficult for me at times. At its best, "Tikim" reminded me of Tamar Adler's food writing, touching both on the food itself and the role it plays in people's lives. Unfortunately, I can also see the connection to why it is out of print in the U.S.--the market for people looking for a non-introductory book on Filipino food must be pretty small! But for those in that market, it's definitely worth picking up if you can borrow it or find it at a decent price.
The volume is basically a collection of magazine columns that Fernandez wrote, I think mostly during the 1980s, with a couple of more academic articles mixed in. Like any collection-based work, it has its higher and lower points. For me, it was extremely interesting to read a Filipina writing about food for Filipina/os rather than for Americans or a global audience. Compare this book, for example, to the recent "I Am A Filipino" by Nicole Ponseca. The latter, while also great and worthwhile, spends its time covering the basics and thus doesn't dive deep on anything. In "Tikim," on the other hand, Fernandez assumes that the reader is generally conversant in Filipino food, meaning that she can go into more depth on things such as different varieties of shrimp found throughout the archipelago or traditional cooking pots. There is also a decent amount of untranslated Tagalog and Spanish (the latter from old cookbooks), which could be difficult for me at times. At its best, "Tikim" reminded me of Tamar Adler's food writing, touching both on the food itself and the role it plays in people's lives. Unfortunately, I can also see the connection to why it is out of print in the U.S.--the market for people looking for a non-introductory book on Filipino food must be pretty small! But for those in that market, it's definitely worth picking up if you can borrow it or find it at a decent price.
May 28, 2012
One of the most comprehensive overviews on Filipino culture, via the palate, that I have ever read! Love this book. You can savor it in chapters or devour it at one sitting, but there's lots of food for thought...
February 24, 2022
Iconic, as usual. No one does food history writing better than Doreen Fernandez. I love this collection but it was also hard to get through in one sitting because of how broad it is. Very interesting essays on Filipino food and culture so I'm still obsessed.
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July 27, 2025i looooved stumbling upon anvil publishing's pop up booth during a recent spanish fair, getting stunned by a book art cover for a collection of gastronomical essays written by an amazing woman i've never heard before in my life. imposing strict dietary restrictions on myself the same day i started reading the said sumptuous essays. then coincidentally dating an american who fancied himself as a foodie who fell in love with me every time i spew out food facts pilfered from this amazing book.
very far from the only food literature I’ve consumed (bourdain), fernandez writes without canine teeth and a formal culinary background, but she left piercing marks just as the same. she’s informative, historical, anthropological, an empath and a great champion of our culture and cuisine. i love her like she's my second mother.
in my opinion, filipino food is highly underrated and is hastily brushed off as unhealthy—it is not. i mean it can be just as any other cuisines, but i sneer at the generalization. tikim magnificently backs up my stand.
the book is divided into four parts. one, where it introduces the local food and flavors. two, involves the people who makes the wonderful food, and the places where the culinary scene thrives. three, other gastronomical literature fernandez thought was highly influential, and the many feasts that graces the filipino table. And four, food in the context of the nation’s history, where my favorite chapter belonged: a convo with fray juan de oliver on drinking and drunkenness.
“perhaps he would have been consoled had he seen that drinking even today remains firmly a filipino social, communal activity rather than a vehicle for sin and evil. It is governed by a folk ethic for sharing and against drunkenness, in which drinkers are enjoined to think of others, not to disrupt the pleasure of camaraderie, and to bond with them as in the old days their forebears had bonded with the spirits of empowerment.”
the respect and vigor doreen had for our country’s food was affecting, her essays transcend cooking as it also profoundly touched our history and culture being reflected in our daily meals. i don’t cook so I may be wrong but literature about our food is very limited. i doubt this situation would improve in today’s digital age, but i do have seen plenty of influencers who ardently promotes our cuisine, documents the people who prepare our food, and even help in preserving the process of making our dishes and delicacies. it is a joy to witness and a joy to know that doreen played an impactful role in it—with or without the said influencers knowing it.
“the indigenous cuisine wins out in the power play if the criteria are geographical spread and breadth of market.
native food will not get written up in too many cookbooks and magazines, or featured in television. But these uncolonized foodways will steadily confirm the culture, provide documentation of what is filipino for generations of anthropologists and researchers (whose tribe increases), and assert the national identity.
in the long grind, the power belongs to the lowly. this is staying power and assertive power, although it has little flash and projection.”
very far from the only food literature I’ve consumed (bourdain), fernandez writes without canine teeth and a formal culinary background, but she left piercing marks just as the same. she’s informative, historical, anthropological, an empath and a great champion of our culture and cuisine. i love her like she's my second mother.
in my opinion, filipino food is highly underrated and is hastily brushed off as unhealthy—it is not. i mean it can be just as any other cuisines, but i sneer at the generalization. tikim magnificently backs up my stand.
the book is divided into four parts. one, where it introduces the local food and flavors. two, involves the people who makes the wonderful food, and the places where the culinary scene thrives. three, other gastronomical literature fernandez thought was highly influential, and the many feasts that graces the filipino table. And four, food in the context of the nation’s history, where my favorite chapter belonged: a convo with fray juan de oliver on drinking and drunkenness.
“perhaps he would have been consoled had he seen that drinking even today remains firmly a filipino social, communal activity rather than a vehicle for sin and evil. It is governed by a folk ethic for sharing and against drunkenness, in which drinkers are enjoined to think of others, not to disrupt the pleasure of camaraderie, and to bond with them as in the old days their forebears had bonded with the spirits of empowerment.”
the respect and vigor doreen had for our country’s food was affecting, her essays transcend cooking as it also profoundly touched our history and culture being reflected in our daily meals. i don’t cook so I may be wrong but literature about our food is very limited. i doubt this situation would improve in today’s digital age, but i do have seen plenty of influencers who ardently promotes our cuisine, documents the people who prepare our food, and even help in preserving the process of making our dishes and delicacies. it is a joy to witness and a joy to know that doreen played an impactful role in it—with or without the said influencers knowing it.
“the indigenous cuisine wins out in the power play if the criteria are geographical spread and breadth of market.
native food will not get written up in too many cookbooks and magazines, or featured in television. But these uncolonized foodways will steadily confirm the culture, provide documentation of what is filipino for generations of anthropologists and researchers (whose tribe increases), and assert the national identity.
in the long grind, the power belongs to the lowly. this is staying power and assertive power, although it has little flash and projection.”
December 24, 2021
i have a deeper appreciate for filipino foods <3
i liked how it's a collection of food stories & articles which made it easy to read small bits during my work breaks
some of it went over my head especially with names of people & restaurants but i do appreciate how she paid respects to the folks who impacted her perspective & experience
my favorite sections:
1) noodles of our (long) lives -- i love all noodles so hearing more history to how we have pancit (& other dishes) today from Chinese merchants was cool to connect
2) men in the kitchen -- "why are we so amazed when men cook, & when women can't" LOL women (& queer folks) run the world. i appreciated this small critique on gender roles & who holds the labor especially within the kitchen
3) flavors of Mexico in Philippine food & culture !!
4) colonizing the cuisine: the politics of Philippine foodways -- a good summary
i liked how it's a collection of food stories & articles which made it easy to read small bits during my work breaks
some of it went over my head especially with names of people & restaurants but i do appreciate how she paid respects to the folks who impacted her perspective & experience
my favorite sections:
1) noodles of our (long) lives -- i love all noodles so hearing more history to how we have pancit (& other dishes) today from Chinese merchants was cool to connect
2) men in the kitchen -- "why are we so amazed when men cook, & when women can't" LOL women (& queer folks) run the world. i appreciated this small critique on gender roles & who holds the labor especially within the kitchen
3) flavors of Mexico in Philippine food & culture !!
4) colonizing the cuisine: the politics of Philippine foodways -- a good summary
September 29, 2022
Mom saw me reading this the other day and asked me what could have possibly pushed me to pick up an essay collection on food. (I've always been the taga-kain in the family.) But Doreen Fernandez does a masterful job of tying back every dish to larger themes of culture and community, and making even the most obscure delicacies from the farthest regions of the country seem like an inextricable part of the human experience. Her food writing goes beyond what something tastes like and why it's worth trying and touches on hyper-specific memories that add a layer of emotion and nostalgia to her well-researched arguments. Although I will say that I recommend reading this over a longer period of time: a lot of the chapters have been previously published on her former column so the topics tend to overlap and get repetitive. But nevertheless, still a real gem! She is the standard!
September 4, 2023
Aside from being a prominent figure in Philippine food studies, Doreen Fernandez is also one of the best writers there is. But what I really adore from this book is the representation it presented, whilst recognizing that, like language, food can also have regional varieties. The book Tikim is not just one of those cliche food books that only talks about food and/or the eating practices of the urban people in the metro; it also gives us an overall outlook on how food changes our cultural narrative and could challenge our Filipino identities. This book should be a staple for anyone whos considering to pursue food studies in the long run. This was also my first book purhcase from Anvil and I have been loving it since.
September 27, 2022
This book made me appreciate my nanay (mother) and our family even more. They never failed to cook good food made with love and filled with passion. How I wish I had their skills too :(( or maybe, I am here to document their recipes and share them when I get old to my future family, friends, nephews and nieces! Thank you for this collection, Ms. Doreen.
Nanay, I miss when you cook me Filipino spaghetti when I'm stressed at work. This evening, I ate the last piece of lumpiang shanghai you prepared for me and Cho. It made me ugly cry but I'll be home by weekend ( ◜‿◝ )♡
Nanay, I miss when you cook me Filipino spaghetti when I'm stressed at work. This evening, I ate the last piece of lumpiang shanghai you prepared for me and Cho. It made me ugly cry but I'll be home by weekend ( ◜‿◝ )♡
August 11, 2021
This made me appreciate Filipino food and culture so much more. There really is no cuisine like Filipino cuisine ❤️ Like all my favorite non fiction, the essays read like stories, with dishes or methods of cooking, or cookbooks or recipes as the main characters.
Perhaps the most challenging part of reading this was craving everything that's mentioned 😅 at some point it would be hard to concentrate because all i could think about was kinilaw, sinigang, puto, etc 😅😅😅
Perhaps the most challenging part of reading this was craving everything that's mentioned 😅 at some point it would be hard to concentrate because all i could think about was kinilaw, sinigang, puto, etc 😅😅😅
July 6, 2024
Alongside the likes of Claude Tayag, Doreen Gamboa Fernandez is one of the only authorities of Filipino food I’ll listen to.
A true doyenne and eminence of craft and industry 💝
(The wait to get this book was WORTH!!!)
“The pastillas wrappers of San Miguel, Bulacan are an example of ephemeral, evanescent, art — not meant to last, but to be enjoyed, for the shortest moments of its existence.
Why not make the moment beautiful?”
A true doyenne and eminence of craft and industry 💝
(The wait to get this book was WORTH!!!)
“The pastillas wrappers of San Miguel, Bulacan are an example of ephemeral, evanescent, art — not meant to last, but to be enjoyed, for the shortest moments of its existence.
Why not make the moment beautiful?”
December 30, 2020
her writing is so easy to consume and it’s truly a pleasure to read something about filipino culture written so lovingly & proudly. feels good.
tsaka nakakagutom yung ibang mga binabanggit niyang pagkain, naghanap tuloy ako ng arrozcaldo nung nakaraang araw.
special mention sa essay niya na pinamagatang “a conversation with fray juan de oliver on drinking and drunkenness”, na merong gantong mga sipi:
(kahulugan daw to ng “cayamoan”, gluttony)
tsaka nakakagutom yung ibang mga binabanggit niyang pagkain, naghanap tuloy ako ng arrozcaldo nung nakaraang araw.
special mention sa essay niya na pinamagatang “a conversation with fray juan de oliver on drinking and drunkenness”, na merong gantong mga sipi:
“catacauan, sa pagcain, at sa pagynom, siyang ycalimang ponong casalanan”
(kahulugan daw to ng “cayamoan”, gluttony)
“magaling pa ang ouac at nacapagyyngat sila nang canilang cataoan sa dongmodolit sa caniya”
January 7, 2008
I think because this book is a collection of essays and columns written over long periods of time and published in many different places, this makes the book as a whole a little redundant. Still, it's the most comprehensive and historical body of work I have read on Filipino foodways, and that also turns a pretty good critical eye towards colonialism, gender roles/expectations, and mass media.
August 12, 2021
Doreen Fernandez takes us on a delightful journey in her essays about Filipino food, may it be indigenous, indigenized, or foreign. She takes us to both past and present and to different places in the Philippines, all the while maintaining a warm and straightforward tone. She writes about how our street food came to be, the different varieties of vinegar used in cooking, our obsession with durian and mangoes, haute cuisine, why many chefs are men, the wonders of kinilaw and noodles, defunct restaurants in Metro Manila, the flavors of regional cuisine, the many dishes prepared during Christmas and town fiestas, Mexican and French influence in our food, (my personal favorite) a historical perspective on why men go drunk, among others.
Clearly, this is a book that you should read when you're not hungry as her descriptions of food can make you crave dishes you already know and just knew/read about. She fills your head with information and anecdotes plus she makes you fully appreciate our food which, more often than not, we take for granted. I never thought kinilaw and pansit have so much stories to tell.
She also makes you nostalgic for the old times when life was simpler and we can merrily eat and celebrate together without the distractions of the current world (e.g. gadgets, stressful work). I used to remember fiestas where we could easily go from one house to another, full of celebratory spirit and of course, so many food. I was so consumed with cravings for new food that, after reading this book, the first thing I did was to buy 'puto bumbong', a delicacy I've heard so much about but haven't tried yet. It was glorious.
I appreciate her efforts in making me learn something new, appreciate the richness of our local fare, and, most importantly I think, be nostalgic on times lost but hopefully we will find again.
Clearly, this is a book that you should read when you're not hungry as her descriptions of food can make you crave dishes you already know and just knew/read about. She fills your head with information and anecdotes plus she makes you fully appreciate our food which, more often than not, we take for granted. I never thought kinilaw and pansit have so much stories to tell.
She also makes you nostalgic for the old times when life was simpler and we can merrily eat and celebrate together without the distractions of the current world (e.g. gadgets, stressful work). I used to remember fiestas where we could easily go from one house to another, full of celebratory spirit and of course, so many food. I was so consumed with cravings for new food that, after reading this book, the first thing I did was to buy 'puto bumbong', a delicacy I've heard so much about but haven't tried yet. It was glorious.
I appreciate her efforts in making me learn something new, appreciate the richness of our local fare, and, most importantly I think, be nostalgic on times lost but hopefully we will find again.
April 7, 2025
This book is a collection of essays by Doreen G. Fernandez published in many Philippine publications. I started reading this back in September, a couple of essays at a time, in between books. It is wonderfully written and tugs at your heart, especially if you're like me who loves reading about food so much. Every essay makes my heart full. It makes me proud to live in this country with a rich and varied cuisine and culture. I will surely reread this book time and time again.
This book evokes so many childhood memories living in our small, provincial town. It made me so happy reading about our street food. Who knew we had so many kinds? There's the "walking" street food — food that is carried, pedaled, and barked throughout the streets, weaving in between traffic, like peanuts or taho. There's the "sitting" ones like banana cue, camote cue, and rice cakes. There are those found early morning at the market or at the churchyard. There are also those found near schools. There's so many I can't name them all!
Then there's fiesta food, restaurant food, and everyday meal food. Some are indigenous while some brought about through colonization but have been thoroughly indigenized. There also some brought about through trading and immigration. I love that the author also explores the different pathways of how certain food came to be.
I also discovered things that I never knew before like how each region have different kinds of wine fermented from native fruits of that region. This book also pays tribute to mothers and housewives because "who can really think about food without thinking about their mothers?".
Tikim is just a taste in English. The essays here in the book are just to give us a taste. There is more to explore. I am so glad to have meet this book.
This book evokes so many childhood memories living in our small, provincial town. It made me so happy reading about our street food. Who knew we had so many kinds? There's the "walking" street food — food that is carried, pedaled, and barked throughout the streets, weaving in between traffic, like peanuts or taho. There's the "sitting" ones like banana cue, camote cue, and rice cakes. There are those found early morning at the market or at the churchyard. There are also those found near schools. There's so many I can't name them all!
Then there's fiesta food, restaurant food, and everyday meal food. Some are indigenous while some brought about through colonization but have been thoroughly indigenized. There also some brought about through trading and immigration. I love that the author also explores the different pathways of how certain food came to be.
I also discovered things that I never knew before like how each region have different kinds of wine fermented from native fruits of that region. This book also pays tribute to mothers and housewives because "who can really think about food without thinking about their mothers?".
Tikim is just a taste in English. The essays here in the book are just to give us a taste. There is more to explore. I am so glad to have meet this book.
March 25, 2022
I had been searching for this book for nearly a decade, as the first publishing of Tikim was in 1994. And then the revised and updated edition came out in 2020 so I was able to get it immediately once it reached National Bookstore shelves.
It's a compilation of Doreen's writings over 10 years doing columns for the Philippine Inquirer and other publications. Essay after essay, you'll find her either writing about a specific restaurant on Roxas Boulevard in Manila that's no longer open or something more contemporary or "evergreen" like the different food influences from Mexico to the Philippines, the latter essay goes on for almost 20 pages.
I think there's an essay for everyone in this book. I'm not into essay compilations but Tikim had me reconsidering. There were times when I'd skip an essay because it was about, say Valentines Day, because she had to write a timely article at some point. But then she'd have a more personal essay all of a sudden about growing up with her lola and having Noche Buena. I never grew up having Noche Buena, but it was nice to have a glimpse at her life when she was younger.
She continually wrote for periodicals and their general audiences, and she put in the effort to travel, learn, and most importantly eat her way through those 10 years. In doing so she left behind a legacy of Filipino food writing probably unprecedented even up until today. "If one can savor the word, then one can swallow the world," she writes. Thank you Mam Doreen, we can continue to savor your words for generations!
It's a compilation of Doreen's writings over 10 years doing columns for the Philippine Inquirer and other publications. Essay after essay, you'll find her either writing about a specific restaurant on Roxas Boulevard in Manila that's no longer open or something more contemporary or "evergreen" like the different food influences from Mexico to the Philippines, the latter essay goes on for almost 20 pages.
I think there's an essay for everyone in this book. I'm not into essay compilations but Tikim had me reconsidering. There were times when I'd skip an essay because it was about, say Valentines Day, because she had to write a timely article at some point. But then she'd have a more personal essay all of a sudden about growing up with her lola and having Noche Buena. I never grew up having Noche Buena, but it was nice to have a glimpse at her life when she was younger.
She continually wrote for periodicals and their general audiences, and she put in the effort to travel, learn, and most importantly eat her way through those 10 years. In doing so she left behind a legacy of Filipino food writing probably unprecedented even up until today. "If one can savor the word, then one can swallow the world," she writes. Thank you Mam Doreen, we can continue to savor your words for generations!
August 1, 2021
I appreciate these essays for the time and effort Doreen Fernandez has given to articulate the culture, diversity, and history of Filipino food. It's honestly innovative for her time and very respectful to all the different cultures she decided to represent. I thoroughly enjoyed this collection for what it is: an articulation of a lifestyle and culture of food that is almost impossible to unify.
There is much left to be desired because of how much has changed in the conception of Filipino cuisine, but I don't think that burden is to be placed on Fernandez. I think she has done her best with the resources that she had at the time, so I honestly applaud her for the work she has done.
There is, of course, also the conversation about how some articles are obviously written by a person of high socio-economic status, written for the same kind of people, but I think that goes for most books, especially written in the 90s, given what access people had to publishers. I think Fernandez has, again, done very well to use what privilege she had to write about all kinds of Filipino food experiences, that occur and have occurred to the Filipino people, no matter the social class.
Overall, I think it's a pleasant and illuminating read on Filipino food culture, and I think it is a challenge to continue what Fernandez has done for our culture and history by documenting these mundane but important facets of our lives.
There is much left to be desired because of how much has changed in the conception of Filipino cuisine, but I don't think that burden is to be placed on Fernandez. I think she has done her best with the resources that she had at the time, so I honestly applaud her for the work she has done.
There is, of course, also the conversation about how some articles are obviously written by a person of high socio-economic status, written for the same kind of people, but I think that goes for most books, especially written in the 90s, given what access people had to publishers. I think Fernandez has, again, done very well to use what privilege she had to write about all kinds of Filipino food experiences, that occur and have occurred to the Filipino people, no matter the social class.
Overall, I think it's a pleasant and illuminating read on Filipino food culture, and I think it is a challenge to continue what Fernandez has done for our culture and history by documenting these mundane but important facets of our lives.
May 26, 2020
I only read this because I was curious to know the histories behind Philippine cuisine, and how different things were back in the 90's, but this book changed my perspective on Philippine Cuisine completely. Throughout my life, I've always questioned what qualified as "authentic Filipino cuisine" since almost everything we ate was adapted from various cultures. I was also the type of person who disliked eating Filipino food outside home. But this book really touched me, and made me appreciate and be proud of Filipino cuisine, from how it came about to how it was finally served on the table. I can't help but pray that our current pandemic would be over so that we could all have a gastronomical Filipino feast with our loved ones.
My concern with this book was that it probably wasn't meant to be read continuously, since after all, it was a collection of essays. Yet, I still chose to read it continuously, which led to me finding some parts being repetitive and boring. I also wish there were pictures of the food she was talking about, or at least have a reprint of this book with pictures.
I'd recommend Filipinos to read this book, or maybe just some of the essays.
My concern with this book was that it probably wasn't meant to be read continuously, since after all, it was a collection of essays. Yet, I still chose to read it continuously, which led to me finding some parts being repetitive and boring. I also wish there were pictures of the food she was talking about, or at least have a reprint of this book with pictures.
I'd recommend Filipinos to read this book, or maybe just some of the essays.
November 20, 2022
Still getting into the habit of rating books I read! Anyway, this book serves as my personal bible (being currently fixated on food anthropology) and I really hope to get my hands on a physical copy someday.
Ms. Fernandez, bless her soul, had an incredibly poetic and strikingly vivid way of describing Philippine food and the culture and traditions that surround it- all while using familiar and easy-to-understand descriptors to evoke the same feeling you'd have if you were experiencing all of it for yourself. It's clear that every sentence was written from her heart, that this truly was something she loved, and that's the reason why I keep coming back to this book. I struggled to move it from 'currently reading' to 'read', because I do love opening this up every now and then to remind myself of why I adore my culture's food (though the country itself not so much) and why it's incredibly important that this book exists at all.
Ms. Fernandez, bless her soul, had an incredibly poetic and strikingly vivid way of describing Philippine food and the culture and traditions that surround it- all while using familiar and easy-to-understand descriptors to evoke the same feeling you'd have if you were experiencing all of it for yourself. It's clear that every sentence was written from her heart, that this truly was something she loved, and that's the reason why I keep coming back to this book. I struggled to move it from 'currently reading' to 'read', because I do love opening this up every now and then to remind myself of why I adore my culture's food (though the country itself not so much) and why it's incredibly important that this book exists at all.
September 13, 2022
My taking so long to read this is not a reflection on how engaging it is. I am guilty of making comments about my own comfort foods being "full of oil and salt," and (though it only comprises a marginal part of the book) I am grateful for Fernandez's insights into why Filipino food (in recent decades) have become increasingly oily and salty.
The Philippines is a large and diverse country, and I was baffled by the number of dishes she named with which I was totally unfamiliar. Reading about food is new territory for me, and Fernandez's blend of culinary history, food reviews, and cultural remembering made me think of food, family, and love in exciting ways.
RIP to when I was going to spend the summer of 2020 studying in the homeland.
The Philippines is a large and diverse country, and I was baffled by the number of dishes she named with which I was totally unfamiliar. Reading about food is new territory for me, and Fernandez's blend of culinary history, food reviews, and cultural remembering made me think of food, family, and love in exciting ways.
RIP to when I was going to spend the summer of 2020 studying in the homeland.
February 16, 2023
I am bewildered by the amount of praise Fernandez gets for these essays. After reading the first three essays, one begins to notice how she repeats herself excessively and unnecessarily, page after page. Save for 10 to 15 pages, her prose is painfully plain, not in an aesthetically minimalist mode, but in a mediocre and generic style. Frankly the book reads like a compilation of high school students' essays on Philippine food and their uninspired postcolonial reactions. If this is the classic of Philippine food writing, then I do not want to imagine what the rest is like.
October 7, 2025
My love for food began in our family’s kitchen. Whenever there are special ocassions, gatherings, every member of the family is required to bring a dish. Both sides of the family are like this (dad and mom side). I never thought of the origins but I wanted to replicate and know the recipe of the dish.
My love for food and history were kindled because of ms Fernandez. She’s one of the best and the pioneered culinary history in the Philippines. I enjoyed re reading the essays in this book, thank goodness that her works are lovingly compiled in this book.
My love for food and history were kindled because of ms Fernandez. She’s one of the best and the pioneered culinary history in the Philippines. I enjoyed re reading the essays in this book, thank goodness that her works are lovingly compiled in this book.
April 28, 2022
A collection of essays by Doreen Gamboa Fernandez, food is presented without the usual shower of adjectives incorporated to it. Instead, she told stories and history attributed to the famous dishes and food scenery in the country. This classic book “Tikim” is a must read to get to know the culinary scene of the Philippines and at the same time know more about the culture and traditions of its people.
December 5, 2021
Doreen Fernandez makes use of her privilege to document Filipino food culture (though occasionally too academically. Weekly columns must have been challenging). First few essays are the most compelling; the last essay, on food and colonization, seems to be the type of synthesis one would submit for a foodwriting class (theme: national identity; grade: B+).
February 6, 2024
I enjoyed learning about the history of the Philippines through their food culture and the historical influences. I recommend reading this book if you have been staying for a long-time in the Philippines (and tried a lot of their local dishes) or if you are Filipino, otherwise you might have a hard time relating as the author makes a lot of assumption about knowing Filipino food.
May 25, 2020
I'm glad that Anvil Publishing reprinted the book! I've been longing to read this work and now I understand why this became a food literature classic. I love how Filipino cuisine and culture are intermingled to one another (as they should be) in every essay.
April 4, 2020
Nice book, very clear content!!
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September 29, 2021very entertaining and interesting essays about filipino food and culture that made me hungry & made me appreciate our own native food some more
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