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Arts and Traditions of the Table: Perspectives on Culinary History

Drinking History: Fifteen Turning Points in the Making of American Beverages

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A companion to Andrew F. Smith's critically acclaimed and popular Eating History: Thirty Turning Points in the Making of American Cuisine, this volume recounts the individuals, ingredients, corporations, controversies, and myriad events responsible for America's diverse and complex beverage scene. He revisits the country's major historical moments: colonization, the American Revolution, the Whiskey Rebellion, the temperance movement, Prohibition, and repeal, and he tracks the growth of the American beverage industry throughout the world. The result is an intoxicating encounter with an often overlooked aspect of American culture and global influence.

Whether alcoholic or nonalcoholic, carbonated or caffeinated, warm or frozen, watery or thick, spicy or plain -- Americans have invented, adopted, modified, and commercialized tens of thousands of beverages. These include uncommon cocktails, varieties of coffee and milk, and such iconic creations as Welch's grape juice, Coca-Cola, root beer, and Kool-Aid. Involved in their creation and promotion were entrepreneurs and environmentalists, bartenders and bottlers, politicians and lobbyists, organized and unorganized criminals, teetotalers and drunks, German and Italian immigrants, savvy advertisers and gullible consumers, prohibitionists and medical professionals, and everyday Americans in love with their brew. Smith weaves a wild history full of surprising stories and explanations for such classic slogans as "taxation with and without representation;" "the lips that touch wine will never touch mine;" and "rum, Romanism, and rebellion." He reintroduces readers to Samuel Adams, Thomas Jefferson, George Washington, and the colorful John Chapman (Johnny Appleseed), and he rediscovers America's vast literary and cultural engagement with beverages and their relationship to politics, identity, and health.

352 pages, Hardcover

First published November 27, 2012

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About the author

Andrew F. Smith

45 books14 followers
Andrew Francis Smith teaches food studies at the New School University in Manhattan. He has written more than three hundred articles in academic journals and popular magazines and has authored or edited seventeen books, including The Oxford Encyclopedia on Food and Drink in America, a James Beard finalist in 2005. He has been frequently appeared on several television series, including the History Channel's American Eats, and the Food Network's Heavy Weights.

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Displaying 1 - 12 of 12 reviews
Profile Image for Donna Parker.
337 reviews21 followers
January 8, 2013
This was a surprise, quite fascinating, I mean, considering I was reading about drinking instead of doing it, but still cool. When I won this from the Goodreads First Reads Program I was so thinking, gee, a history of drinking beverages, that's going to be exciting, why did I enter for that again? Turns out this was a real treat. It was concise, but still thorough. Enough details to keep it real, but without taking a wrong turn into Yawnsville. From the rum to tea to coke I was mesmerized. Cocktails to Perrier to coffee and beyond, this book fizzed with bubbling delicious facts. Kool aid to flavoured milk, sorts and energy drinks to wine, I kept thinking about what a good drinking game you could make out of this drinking book. This book chronicles the origins of beverages and tries to contemplate why we love, love, love so many beverages despite the fact that we really only need water for our true drinking needs. Not only would I recommend this book, I recommend you drink some beverages while reading it. I went with hot chocolate...didn't say what else was in it.
Profile Image for Sarah Bradley.
Author 24 books14 followers
December 30, 2021
Really did not catch my interest on any level. I gave the book to my father, who enjoys history. I'm hoping he'll like it much better.
Profile Image for Gary   Allen.
Author 10 books16 followers
October 31, 2023
A cultural (and financial) history of the liquids we Americans pour down our throats.
Profile Image for Darren.
1,193 reviews65 followers
December 3, 2012
Every so often you come across a book that you never imagined there would be a need for, yet once you start looking at it you feel such a fool for your naivety. This is one of those books.

In short, a book that looks at the individuals, ingredients, corporations, controversies and events that helped shape America's beverages during the country's relatively-short history. Starting with those who sailed over on the Mayflower and the cultural changes they were forced to suffer, in part due to their own actions, the author really seems to have been busy with his research.

Alcohol played a very central role in the early days and the shortage of many ingredients led to their own challenges, requiring much innovation, determination and a lot of trial and error. Non-alcoholic drinks such as coffee, tea and chocolate started to make their mark as well, with tea playing an important role in the fight for American independence later on. But things were not as universal as one might imagine and, as the book notes, because coffee, tea, and chocolate were unaffordable or unavailable on the western frontier (then just a few hundred miles from the Eastern Seaboard), colonists there made do with substitutes such as burned rye, parched beets, peas, potatoes, and a variety of herbs, roots, barks, and leaves.

Many raw ingredients that would be used for beverage production were imported and, where possible, planted to provide domestic crops. It is not possible to summarise everything included in this very comprehensive book. Split into fifteen quirkily-named chapters of Colonial Diversity; An Essential Ingredient in American Independence; Tea Parties; Tarantula Juice; Cider’s Last Hurrah; The Most Popular Drink of the Day; Nature’s Perfect Food; The Most Delightful and Insinuating Potations; Unfermented Wine; The Temperance Beverage; To Root Out a Bad Habit; Youth Beverages; Judgment of Paris; The Only Proper Drink for Man and Double Half-caf Sumatra Latte, Low-fat Soy - this book is a veritable reference tome.

You can see from the chapters that the author takes you through the years and right up to the current time with the often confusing array of coffee options and their confusing terminology that plague modern-day coffee houses. Oh for the days of a simple coffee!

This book manages to combine academic research and writing with everyday accessibility and interesting reading, so both groups of consumers will find something of interest. This is more than just a beverage book, but a great overview of historical, sociological and culinary matters. At the end of the book is a very comprehensive bibliography that can guide the reader to even more interesting sources of information should they so desire. Columbia University Press books usually have a great index too but this review copy did not possess an index so we cannot comment on that.

Books like this deserve a wider readership than they probably will get. This would be an ideal book for a newspaper or magazine serialisation that would encourage more readers to take a look as they will be hooked after just a few pages. This acts as a companion title to the author's "Eating History: Thirty Turning Points in the Making of American Cuisine" title that was equally well-researched and well-written and well worth a read in its own right.


// This review appeared in YUM.fi and is reproduced here in full with permission of YUM.fi. YUM.fi celebrates the worldwide diversity of food and drink, as presented through the humble book. Whether you call it a cookery book, cook book, recipe book or something else (in the language of your choice) YUM will provide you with news and reviews of the latest books on the marketplace. //
Profile Image for Debbie.
3,654 reviews89 followers
December 7, 2012
"Drinking History" is a look at the beverages popular with Americans through our history, from Native Americans and the colonists to the present day. The author linked various events in American history to changes in which beverages are popular to drink. It's written with a casual tone and is an easy read.

There was a minor amount of repetition as some events caused more than one beverage to catch on. Sometimes, near the end of a chapter, the narrative turned into lists of which company bought out which company over the years. I was more interested in the descriptions of the events (political and/or technological) that caused a change of drinking patterns or the creation of new beverages, and that's what made up most of the book. Overall, I'd recommend this interesting and enjoyable book.

The chapters covered: what the colonists drank and why; rum, tea, whiskey, hard cider, beer, milk, cocktails, juices, soft drinks, Kool-Aid, flavored milk, sports and energy drinks, wine, water and bottled water, and coffee. While exploring these beverages, we also learned about events leading to the Revolutionary War, the Temperance Movement, Prohibition, etc., and about people like Johnny Appleseed. We also occasionally got an old recipe telling how a certain beverage was made. There was a lot of information on how drinks were marketed to make them popular as well as surprising health concerns about various drinks and how drink producers overcame those concerns.

I received this book as an eBook review copy from the publisher through NetGalley.
Profile Image for Birgit.
Author 2 books9 followers
November 18, 2012
Who knew how big the impact of beverages on American culture really is? In his book Drinking History Andrew F. Smith introduces the reader to a history of drinking in the United States, from Colonial times, when beer ran out and colonists had to make do with plain water, straight to today's low-fat soy latte from the nearest coffee-shop of your choice.
I've always been drawn to books that explore the history of things, probably because history class back in school has been rather dull, and looking at our past from a slightly different angle is something that accommodates my curiosity more than the apparent lack of enthusiasm my history teachers showed.
As far as factual information goes this book has it all - each chapter brings you some historical background, dips into how certain beverages were produced, shares how people's tastes changed over the years, and obviously major events such as the Prohibition are in the spotlight too.
Sadly, my interest in the doubtlessly fascinating topic, and my appreciation for a presentation of facts in a brief and succinct format, collided with the writing style which is bordering heavily on school book charm. I expect my non fiction fare to be a bit more lively and a little less dry, and hadn't it been for the segments on typical American beverages, eg Root Beer or Dr. Pepper, which I personally found the most interesting, my verdict would have been less favorable.
In short: Shaken, but definitely not stirred!
Profile Image for Ira Therebel.
731 reviews47 followers
February 17, 2013
I will never look at anything I drink the same way again. A great book that shows us how history has affected drinking and how drinking has affected history.

It is broken down into 15 chapters, each is about a specific kind of a drink. There are some repetitions because some historical events involved more than one drink. This didn't bother me though, it didn't feel like too much repetition and also helped one to remember the information from the book better.

I think I liked the beginning more, because these drink chapters were more about history, while at the end there was more about development of certain companies. It was nonetheless still good and gave us a look at the American culture of the time.

My main complaint is about the milk chapter. There was a section about milk in the present and I wish it included two things. One, the fact that milk is considered to be less healthy now (even in a Harvard study it says that even though it is a good source for calcium, there are better ones now). And also about a major issue of cows in factory dairy farms these days. I didn't expect some big animal rights speech, but since it is a big issue these days I think they deserved a few sentences in "present" section. Could be in the same neutral tone as the description of the horrible mistreatment of cows in the past.

I really liked this book. Now my favorite drinks, lager, even seem to taste better.

* I received the book for free through Goodreads First Reads.
Profile Image for Donna.
1,055 reviews57 followers
January 16, 2013
The subject is fascinating and I've enjoyed learning about how the background of these beverages tie in with broader American history and culture. The level of detail sometimes felt uneven though, as the author would give a ton of info about certain aspects and then gloss past things that I'd personally have found more interesting.

I've been reading this a section at a time and taking breaks along the way. That makes the somewhat dry tone a little more palatable for me, and it also keeps me from being frustrated by the occasional repetition that happens when the chapters tread back over some of the same ground.

My slow approach does mean that I'm only three quarters done with it. But since my opinion on the book has been fairly consistent throughout, I decided I was far enough along to write the review.

(I won this book in a Goodreads Giveaway.)
Profile Image for Mary.
322 reviews11 followers
January 5, 2013
I received this book as a giveaway and no compensation was offered for my review. I found this book really interesting. It is a little slow going in the beginning, but it was very interesting to learn how beverages affected our history, including politics and the economy. It not only outlines how alcohol shaped our country, it covers soda, Kool-aid, bottled water, energy drinks, coffee and teas and the impact of these beverages. I recommend this book to anyone who enjoys reading about history.

















Profile Image for Liz .
601 reviews2 followers
January 13, 2013
This is a very informative book that tells about event in our history and how they led to changes in the beverages we drink. It has something for everyone and can be read straight through or pick a favorite beverage and read that chapter. I won this book in a Goodreads Giveaway and look forward to sharing it with other readers. I am also interested in Andrew Smith's book, Eating History.
32 reviews
March 1, 2013
I won this book in a FR giveaway. I love reading about the history of things, as well as food, so I was really looking forward to reading this book. However, although the book was definitely interesting with an amazing amount of information, I found it a bit of a chore to read. It's definitely a little boring at times. I just didn't find the author's words very compelling.
Profile Image for Vikii Chambers.
10 reviews
January 5, 2014
Very interesting material. Not my usual literature, but worth a read if you are interested in this kind of thing.
I didn't read every page, but flicked through and read the chapters that I personally found intriguing
Displaying 1 - 12 of 12 reviews

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