The bike tour from hell!
As a fellow cyclist who has done a couple of bike tours in the US, any memoir of touring by bicycle appeals to me. Neil Peart, at that time (1990s) the drummer in a well-known rock band (Rush), is not a typical cycle-tourist, by any means, but he sure knew how to tell a good story. RIP Neil.
Between horrific "rustic hotel" accommodations with mosquitoes, grime, often no water, never any air-conditioning; hole-in-the-floor filthy "toilets" (or worse, buckets), this small group embarked on an organized bike tour in Cameroon, Africa, and saw it all. Most of it nothing I'd ever want to experience.
The roads sounded unfit for cycling in most cases; often little more than rocky, rutted paths that required walking one's steed or pedaling very slowly. The hills went on and on. The heat and sunshine were relentless. The water was sometimes scarce and often polluted, so they drank mostly Fanta sodas, and who could blame them?
Worse than the cycling conditions were some of the people they encountered along the way. The police and military presence was a constant annoyance and threat: confiscating passports, requiring excessive paperwork and explanations from the cyclists of where they were from and where they were going, and in general harassing the group of tourists. The locals were sometimes friendly but often wary and/or mean, calling out taunts of "white man" as Neil pedaled through their villages.
It's hard to believe the cyclists paid for the "privilege" of embarking on such a tour.
To be sure, there were some happy moments: occasional friendly and helpful locals, breathtaking vistas, and...not a whole lot else to brag about. Unfortunately, none of the participants really seemed to become friends, just uneasy compatriots on an adventure that was more than any bargained for.
A huge takeaway from a "tour from hell" like this is how privileged we in first-world countries are. Just to have clean, running water and flush toilets is a privilege not everyone can even dream of. In Paris afterwards, Neil appreciated every creature comfort in ways he hadn't before, as anyone would. And as I closed the book, I said a silent prayer of gratitude for all of the material comforts I take for granted in my life.
Fantastic read!