I have never been to China. Somerset Maugham visited the country over 100 years ago. Having recently read “The House of Doors by Tan Twan Eng, a fictional account of Maugham’s travels in Malaysia, I was interested to read this book from this time.
It’s a curious book. It’s made up of short 3-5 page vignettes painting various images of the places he traveled or people he met. Many of these people are consuls, vice consuls, missionaries, doctors, ship captains and their wife’s. Some of them have lived decades in China, prided themselves in never learning Chinese, had no intent to return to Britain, and in most cases, actually hated the Chinese. This strange mix of racism and patriotism made for some strange chapters.
On the Chinese side, which includes a general, a philosopher, and a woman burning money as a libation to the gods, there is a mix of exoticism and patriotism. The Philosopher speaks of how China was once a cultured place ruled by wisdom but the white man came with machine guns, wielding their power and taking control. Apart from these people, there are a lot of blue clothed coolies abiding to the elite foreigners.
One needs to remember that during this time China became a republic in 1912. However after the Boxer Rebellion of 1900, when many Christian missionaries were killed, Britain and other foreign powers invaded China. Their mandate was to protect their citizens and keep the peace. Of course no Republic wants foreign powers ruling over them. During this time of Maugham’s travels that Dr. Sun Yat-sen would come to power. Was the philosopher Dr. Sun? He never names the Chinese.
Maugham doesn’t really take sides but in his typical fashion, he gives you a snapshot of that person, only to ask “do they really see who they are?” If this is the crème de la crème of the Brits, are we not in trouble?
There is one story that does arise from all these vignettes, The Taipan. It’s about a hard working man who worked his way up the bureaucratic ladder. One day is visits the local cemetery. He know so many that died too young, too greedy, or went down the wrong path. He is gloating upon their sad demise when he sees two men digging a new grave. Who is next? He ponders who and makes inquiries back in his office.
It’s not all about the people though. He is a traveller and he is quite taken by what he sees. China is a land very beautiful and full of culture. It’s not like his native land and he understands that. I will leave you with one of the shorter vignettes:
Arabesque
“There in the mist, enormous, majestic, silent, and terrible, stood the Great Wall of China. Solitarily, with the indifference of nature herself, it crept up the mountain side and slipped down to the depth of the valley. Menacingly, the grim watch towers, stark and foursquare, at due intervals stood at their posts. Ruthlessly, for it was built at the cost of million lives and each one of those great grey stones has been stained with the bloody tears of the captive and the outcast, it forged its dark way through a sea of rugged mountains. Fearlessly, it went on its endless journey, league upon league to the furthermost regions of Asia, in utter solitude, mysterious like the great empire it guarded. There in the mist, enormous, majestic, silent, and terrible, stood the Great Wall of China.” p. 113