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Eating Up Italy: Voyages on a Vespa

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Fort examines Italy through its food and the people who produce it. He discovers a land where regional differences are still alive and uncovers the rich connection between history, tradition and cuisine. The enticing sum of these parts--the food, producers, ingredients, consumers and eating occasions--is nothing less than a contemporary portrait of the country.

296 pages, Paperback

First published January 1, 2004

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Matthew Fort

12 books4 followers

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5 stars
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Displaying 1 - 21 of 21 reviews
Profile Image for bookyeti.
181 reviews12 followers
November 3, 2008
Bella! Bella!

Matthew Fort’s infatuation for all things edible and Italian are wonderfully palpable in this gastronomic treasure. Heady and sumptuous as a fine red wine, Eating Up Italy: Voyages on a Vespa — part travel memoir, part specialty recipe book — recounts Fort’s journeys all over the stunning Italian countryside, while lavishly showcasing each region’s own unique culinary “nuances”.

Italy’s romance and mystique lay in its beautiful language, hearty people, culture, fascinating history…and, of course, its wide array of mouth-watering edible delights. One would be hard-pressed to find a better qualified author for the task. Fort, one of Britain’s most renowned food critic and writer, formed an enthusiasm for Italy at the tender age of 11. The love affair with the country and its cuisine has only deepened with time, as Fort, at age 50, takes a “gastronomic tour” of the beautiful country from its southernmost tip at Melito Di Porto Salvo to the northern region of Turin.

Fort brings the tastes, aromas, and regional culture of Italy directly to the reader, in stunning clarity, coupled with a signature wit. Eating Up Italy is a bonafide travelogue on its own merits — nonetheless, Fort doesn’t rest on his laurels, expecting us to take his word for it. The tried-and-true age old recipes, generously peppered throughout, involve the reader and add an inimitable richness to Fort’s personal experiences, on his travels.

From regional delicacies to every-day local cuisine, Fort’s selected recipes and instructions, layered amidst engaging anecdotes teaming with insight into the lives and food of the locals, are easy to follow and tempting to try. Fortunately, many of the recipes are ‘formalized’, using easily recognizable standard measurements, as many Italian cooking techniques are known to use vague measurements such as “a little bit of this, a little bit of that.“ Some recipes may be easier than others, as some call for ingredients that would be challenging for a typical North American ‘foodie’ to find at their local market.

The book, itself, is bound beautifully with a ‘foodified’ rendition of Venus di Milo. Its lovely thick buttery paper and dark brown ink, lends itself an “old world” feel. At the back of the book is a comprehensive index, in case a particular recipe or notation requires reference on a whim.

Truly a voyager’s enchantment and a food lover’s bible, Eating Up Italy captures the incredible country that has it all, and will have any food lover or travel enthusiast shouting “Bella! Bella!”

One can only wait with bated breath - and grumbling stomach - for Fort’s upcoming labour of love, Eating Up Sicily.
Profile Image for Peter.
721 reviews111 followers
February 11, 2016
“Happiness depends on sound sleep, orderly bowels and regular meals.”

Travelogues are not really my usual reads as I find most of the author's who write them are just not as funny as they and their publishers seem to think they are but as I happened to find this book on a train and as such cost me nothing I decided to give it a go. I am rather pleased that I did especially as it centred predominantly about food and Italian food in particular. Yummy.

Fort's leisurely gastronomic journey around Italy starts at the very South of the country wending its way North finishing in Turin avoiding the usual tourist trap of Florence, Tuscany and Rome to name a few along the way visiting instead more less frequented, by the English at least, spots. along the way he shows not just the variety of Italian food, but its deep connection with local and regional traditions.

In the South most of the landowners are really little more than subsistence farmers in tune with the land and climate making artisan foods where no corner of land,even road verges, is wasted as they produce local produce. Further North the larger International conglomerates have taking over with their mono-cultivated land but wherever he went Fort seems to have met warm, welcoming people who like to eat and talk about food. Fort concentrates on this rather than getting into the politics of the country which can only be a good thing.

Along the way Fort encounters no supermarkets so this becomes a heart warming occasionally hilarious critique of a way of life which certainly seems to have been lost in Britain where we have lost touch of where our food actually comes from. Where shops and restaurants open their doors where it suits their customers rather than when it suits themselves but nor does he pretend that every meal that he ate was good. Interspersed throughout the book are some interesting and mouth- watering recipes that help to keep the juices running. Overall a very enjoyable read.


Profile Image for Stacey.
47 reviews3 followers
April 19, 2020
A series of vignettes loosely tied together by strips of road along the Italian countryside. At its surface, it would be easy to dismiss this work as a hedonistic and indulgent (if well-worded) sample of literary food porn, but the subtext in Fort's travelogue ripples with a didactic undercurrent.

The socio-political and economic change Italy has seen over the last century, and may well see in the next, is traceable in the small stories he details throughout his journey, and make this work core complex than it is simply indulgent. Mixed in with recipes for things you will likely be content to simply drool over are subtle jabs that may nod gently in Michael Pollan's direction as much as they pay respect to the rustic appeal of the many foods and faces he encounters.

Like a well-crafted menu, there's a little something to amuse anyone in this offering. If you've read it before, it will likely one day be worth a revisit in years to come, either for escape or to rediscover the richness of an Italy that exisits not in pasta, but in its distinct and stubborn pastorality.
Profile Image for Zanna.
676 reviews1,069 followers
January 5, 2014
The food journalist weaves northward over Italy, feasting as he goes, relying on the friendliness and hospitality of the people he meets, despite limited Italian. His account of diverse sausages and endless pasta courses is lightly seasoned with reflections on Italy's changing agricultural and political landscape, as well as amusing mishaps and hair-raising struggles with traffic, and of course, recipes for the dishes he savours along the way.

Fort paints himself as a slightly buffoonish glutton, hapless on his scooter, at the mercy of unfriendly weather and generous strangers. I didn't develop more than ordinary human sympathy with him, and as a vegetarian, struggled with disgust at some of his numerous graphic descriptions of meat and animal fat. I felt that the whole narrative lacked shape and finally fell flat, ending with a whimper in Turin. I think Fort was much happier in the friendlier, meatier South, but is too polite to say so with force.
Profile Image for IRA.
138 reviews
January 9, 2022
This was a good chronicle of how food and lifestyles change over time. Farming
and food production changes were well written about. I liked the reporting on the wide variety of "recipes" and what and how dishes and culinary themes are considered authentic changes so frequently. I also appreciated that his route seemed to me at least, not an obvious route.

It took me a little longer to read this book than I thought it would because I thought the writer described his voyage as less "fun" than I thought travelling by Vespa and eating local would have been.

Cheers to Mr. Fort for sharing his voyage and thoughts.
Profile Image for Matt.
177 reviews
August 19, 2018
I actually started this book 10 months ago. It took an excessively long time to finish, due for the most part to the fact that one day I just put it down and didn’t pick it up again until yesterday. The whole time I was determined to finish it, so it never left my currently reading list. And I’m very glad I persevered!

I honestly don’t know why it took so long to pick back up. The descriptions of both the food and landscapes of Italy are rich and delicious, the people presented in an honest and amusing way, and Fort’s way with words fairly masterful.

My main complaints were twofold- firstly, the aforementioned way with words sometimes delved into the realm of the excessive- I’m glad I read this on kindle, because I certainly made use of the dictionary feature a good number of times! Secondly, whilst the consistent Italian in the book brought a feeling of authenticity, it did require a certain level of understanding of the language in order to follow along. Food terms were only translated half the time, and whole exchanges were presented with not much nudging from the author to help with understanding. My grasp of Italian is fair for someone who’s never actively studied it, but I did struggle at points.

Overall though, it is certainly an enjoyable book, rich in description and with a real sense of each region explored by Vespa. I’m looking forward to starting “Summer in the Islands”- and I’m determined not to put this one down for a 9 month hiatus!!
Profile Image for Danielle DeSantis.
60 reviews2 followers
April 14, 2019
2.5. There are moments when he eerily and precisely captures Italian culture, but in between are lengthy lines of untranslated Italian, observations with no point, and questions that simply go unanswered when he can’t find the truth.
1,617 reviews3 followers
March 22, 2018
Light reading. Food and Vespa adventures in Italy. Lots of offal.
Profile Image for Alvin Narsey.
183 reviews1 follower
June 1, 2024
Solid 3.5, food descriptions and scenery described like a demon.
Notes made on recipes and places to eat.
Thanks Matt.
2 reviews
May 12, 2025
Very romantically written, mouthwatering a lot of the time, and lots of funny moments. It got a bit samey however.
Profile Image for Amanda.
30 reviews2 followers
July 12, 2007
This is the actual review I wrote for TCM Reviews

I have never read a book that made me hungry until I read Eating up Italy: Voyages on a Vespa by Matthew Fort. Eating up Italy is an entertaining and fast paced read about Fort’s travels from the southernmost tip of the mainland of Italy to the northernmost tip. What makes this different from other travelogues I have read is that Fort focuses on the food he eats along the way to truly understand the country. Eating up Italy is full of rich descriptions of everything Fort experiences, with the most focus on the experience of his meals. To make the book even more enjoyable, recipes of some of the foods Fort writes about is included at the conclusion of each chapter.

What I enjoyed most about Eating up Italy were some of Fort's clever insights and I found myself giggling at some of the situations he got himself into. I also appreciated the honest and truthful descriptions of the places Fort visited and foods he ate. There was no sugarcoating of descriptions of any foods that were not to his liking or places that were less than stellar. But even with these blunt descriptions and after finishing Fort’s story, my desire to travel to Italy and experience the country the way it was meant to be experienced has deepened.
251 reviews2 followers
February 13, 2010
Caught somewhere between a travelogue and a food diary, I didn't find that this book succeeded in either. Every time the author began telling an interesting story about the food or the people he met, he abruptly moved on. I also found it hard to imagine that someone could travel through Italy and find so many meals he disliked (not to mention comparing the food to British food, and somehow the British food coming out on top?!).

Trying to do too much, visit too many cities in a short period of time, I might have enjoyed it if he had picked one town in a region and taken time to develop the stories of the people and the food.
Profile Image for C.G.Koens.
Author 1 book31 followers
September 14, 2014
I've been reading a lot of food-related books lately, and while I enjoyed this, and Matthew Fort's tour of Italy, it wasn't as good as some of the others I've been reading.

However, that being said, I do have several pages of recipes dog-eared to try at a later date, and I'm looking forward to reading his book about his food travels in Sicily.

If you want to know more about the various food regions of Italy, I would recommend picking up a copy of this book. And should we ever make to to a tour of Italy, I'd certainly be bringing this along as a reference.
Profile Image for Bernadet.
203 reviews4 followers
November 22, 2015
Nl vertaling: Op een vespa door Italië - Een culinaire reis
Een boek dat je doet watertanden, omdat het bijna constant over eten gaat. Veel eten en lekker eten. En vriendelijke restauranthouders en kleine zelfstandigen die traditionele producten op ambachtelijke wijze en met veel passie blijven maken.
En ook al lijkt Italië en culinair paradijs, toch stoot hij er ook op slechte restaurants en middelmatige gerechten. En ook daar schrijft hij over.
Profile Image for Judy.
443 reviews116 followers
December 31, 2007
An interesting travel book by a cookery writer who sought out people producing various specialist foods by traditional methods, and has largely painted a picture of a rural way of life which is dying out. I didn't find many of the recipes particularly appealing, though, even though I love Italian food - rather a lot of offal seems to feature!
Profile Image for John Samuel.
Author 1 book10 followers
May 18, 2011
Man approaching post middle-age approaches apocalypse of old age.

Too much meat and not enough motor in my opinion. I'm kind of jealous of him tho' cos he did such an amazing trip.

If your zeal is more Vespa than veal I'd check out Peter Moore's Room with a View
Profile Image for Cherie.
3,795 reviews34 followers
December 9, 2007
D Not very good. Had so much potential, but you hear too many disgusting meat descirptions, shallow character descriptions, his English humour just isn't cutting it, I didn't have any empathy for him. The recipes included are a nice touch, though I'd never make any of them.
2 reviews
August 28, 2011
Read it while in Italy and felt the moment completely captured through this book. He got it so right.
Profile Image for Devina.
276 reviews37 followers
August 3, 2014
I couldn't finish this book; it utterly bored me. I wasn't inspired to know more about Italian food at all. It simply lacked character.
Displaying 1 - 21 of 21 reviews

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