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Galapagos at the Crossroads: Pirates, Biologists, Tourists, and Creationists Battle for Darwin's Cradle of Evolution
As eloquent as it is alarming, Carol Ann Bassett’s portrait of today’s Galápagos depicts a deadly collision of economics, politics, and the environment that may destroy one of the world’s last Edens.
For millions, the Galápagos Islands represent nature at its most unspoiled, an inviolate place famed for its rare flora and fauna. But soon today’s 30,000 human residents could surpass 50,000. Add invasive species, floods of tourists, and unresolved conflicts between Ecuadorian laws and local concerns, and it’s easy to see why the Galápagos were recently added to UNESCO’s World Heritage in Danger list.
Each chapter in this provocative, perceptive book focuses on a specific person or group with a stake in the Galápagos’ natural resources—from tour companies whose activities are often illegal and not always green, to creationist guides who lead tours with no mention of evolution, from fishermen up in arms over lobster quotas, to modern-day pirates who poach endangered marine species.
Bassett presents a perspective as readable as it is sensible. Told with wit, passion, and grace, the Galápagos story serves as a miniature model of Earth itself, a perfect example of how an environment can be destroyed-- and what is being done to preserve these islands before it's too late.
For millions, the Galápagos Islands represent nature at its most unspoiled, an inviolate place famed for its rare flora and fauna. But soon today’s 30,000 human residents could surpass 50,000. Add invasive species, floods of tourists, and unresolved conflicts between Ecuadorian laws and local concerns, and it’s easy to see why the Galápagos were recently added to UNESCO’s World Heritage in Danger list.
Each chapter in this provocative, perceptive book focuses on a specific person or group with a stake in the Galápagos’ natural resources—from tour companies whose activities are often illegal and not always green, to creationist guides who lead tours with no mention of evolution, from fishermen up in arms over lobster quotas, to modern-day pirates who poach endangered marine species.
Bassett presents a perspective as readable as it is sensible. Told with wit, passion, and grace, the Galápagos story serves as a miniature model of Earth itself, a perfect example of how an environment can be destroyed-- and what is being done to preserve these islands before it's too late.
355 pages, Kindle Edition
First published January 1, 2009
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Displaying 1 - 24 of 24 reviews
December 10, 2018
This another book I read in preparation for my own trip to the Galapagos. Of the three books I read, this is the one that goes furthest into the complicated way that politics, economics, and conservation interact there. It's kind of a depressing read- you won't come away all starry-eyed about the wildlife in this one.
The author writes like a journalist. She investigates how fishermen have come into conflict with the Ecuadorian government and how tourist operator licenses get dispensed because of graft. She talks about how local government in Santa Cruz has undercut conservation efforts. She also goes into some detail about how different species in the Galapagos have been threatened or eliminated because of invasive species. She talks about the Judas goats released with trackers into the wilds so that they could find and join up with feral goat herds, which then enabled rangers to eradicate the feral goats. It was an impressive effort.
I won't lie- this book will not make you feel good about yourself if you are planning a trip. According to the author, the islands are overstrained because of tourists using resources like fresh water, generating more trash, and expending lots of fuel to move around on their exploration of the islands.
The author relates a lot of interviews that she's done with locals. She describes going to some of the same restaurants that I visited, and talks with a scuba operator that my husband used for his dive trip. I knew exactly what she was talking about when she describes the Darwin Center.
I do think that the author inserted herself and her own opinions quite a bit into the narrative. Little sentences like "He's right." after describing an interviewee's point of view. I wouldn't call her objective and this book is somewhat of a polemic. The author clearly feels passionately about the Galapagos and preserving these islands' natural heritage, and I can't fault her for that, but she's also sort of sneaky in how she puts her opinion forward as fact. Maybe it's some of my own tourist guilt coming out.
Like it or not, these islands are far more populated than they once were because of tourism- that's by far the major industry on these islands. Sometimes it's done well and sometimes it isn't. Some operators are responsible and some aren't. But it will be human interest in these islands that will preserve them or doom them. I feel that more could have been said about solutions instead of making everyone who reads the book because of interest in the Galapagos feel like they're the problem and that their interest is selfish. Maybe projection on my part?
The author writes like a journalist. She investigates how fishermen have come into conflict with the Ecuadorian government and how tourist operator licenses get dispensed because of graft. She talks about how local government in Santa Cruz has undercut conservation efforts. She also goes into some detail about how different species in the Galapagos have been threatened or eliminated because of invasive species. She talks about the Judas goats released with trackers into the wilds so that they could find and join up with feral goat herds, which then enabled rangers to eradicate the feral goats. It was an impressive effort.
I won't lie- this book will not make you feel good about yourself if you are planning a trip. According to the author, the islands are overstrained because of tourists using resources like fresh water, generating more trash, and expending lots of fuel to move around on their exploration of the islands.
The author relates a lot of interviews that she's done with locals. She describes going to some of the same restaurants that I visited, and talks with a scuba operator that my husband used for his dive trip. I knew exactly what she was talking about when she describes the Darwin Center.
I do think that the author inserted herself and her own opinions quite a bit into the narrative. Little sentences like "He's right." after describing an interviewee's point of view. I wouldn't call her objective and this book is somewhat of a polemic. The author clearly feels passionately about the Galapagos and preserving these islands' natural heritage, and I can't fault her for that, but she's also sort of sneaky in how she puts her opinion forward as fact. Maybe it's some of my own tourist guilt coming out.
Like it or not, these islands are far more populated than they once were because of tourism- that's by far the major industry on these islands. Sometimes it's done well and sometimes it isn't. Some operators are responsible and some aren't. But it will be human interest in these islands that will preserve them or doom them. I feel that more could have been said about solutions instead of making everyone who reads the book because of interest in the Galapagos feel like they're the problem and that their interest is selfish. Maybe projection on my part?
June 5, 2021
Galapagos Islands used to be uninhabitable to humans, but now more humans live there than the islands can manage. But it is not only inhabitants that are having trouble living with nature, it is also tourist who flock to see the islands species diversity. Diversity that heavily influenced the idea of evolution. Diversity that is threatened by over extraction of fauna and the introduction of various invasive species. Due to the abundance of nutrient sources, the animals of Galapagos are tamer, a trait called ecological naivete or natural indifference. But that trait is a problem when their nutrient sources have changed, and others species have been introduced. The way the Galapagos Islands try to resolve their social, economic, and environmental problems will determine if the natural diversity of the islands can be sustained.
The islands live in an environmentally precarious balance. Changes in temperature by a few degrees can lead to extinction. This is an area that is hit by El Nino ad La Nina events, weather patters that heat or cool the waters. These events drastically change the circumstances of life on the islands. The vicissitudes benefit some species but hurt others, and then reserve for the alternative weather.
Galapagos Islands were found by Bishop Tomas de Berlanga and quickly became a haven for pirates. William Dampier was a pirate who wrote about the islands and influenced those who came after. Haven for pirates turned to haven for whalers. The islands started to have a stable population in the 1920s as people fled war-torn nations. More recently, most inhabitants of the islands have not been there for very long so alter their environment to fit to the environment that they were used to. Because the newcomers do not know about the ecological condition of the islands, they do not know how fragile the situation is, leading them to not following sustainable fishing and others preservation practices.
Tourism does bring in economic benefits but at a cost of environmental problems. Becoming a guide for the Galapagos Islands is an alternative path than fishing for an income. As fish populations have declined, many have become guides. But the requirement for guides was reduced which means that many guides do not know about Galapagos ecology. Those who fish have had regulations imposed to facilitate better fishing practices, but the fisherman retaliated by committing various piratical acts. The fragile ecology situation is up against fragile economic situation. Made worse by the unstable and usually corrupt politicians.
The species diversity of Galapagos Islands influenced the ideas of evolution. Darwin was not the first evolutionist as there were others before him such as Jean-Baptiste Lamarck. It would take time for Darwin to consider what he learned at the islands to be valid of proof of natural selection. All these ideas that were competing with religious beliefs. But the ideas of Darwin, and learning economic reasoning from Thomas Robert Malthus, lead to the understanding of adaptation in order to survive, to the theory of evolution by natural selection.
The islands live in an environmentally precarious balance. Changes in temperature by a few degrees can lead to extinction. This is an area that is hit by El Nino ad La Nina events, weather patters that heat or cool the waters. These events drastically change the circumstances of life on the islands. The vicissitudes benefit some species but hurt others, and then reserve for the alternative weather.
Galapagos Islands were found by Bishop Tomas de Berlanga and quickly became a haven for pirates. William Dampier was a pirate who wrote about the islands and influenced those who came after. Haven for pirates turned to haven for whalers. The islands started to have a stable population in the 1920s as people fled war-torn nations. More recently, most inhabitants of the islands have not been there for very long so alter their environment to fit to the environment that they were used to. Because the newcomers do not know about the ecological condition of the islands, they do not know how fragile the situation is, leading them to not following sustainable fishing and others preservation practices.
Tourism does bring in economic benefits but at a cost of environmental problems. Becoming a guide for the Galapagos Islands is an alternative path than fishing for an income. As fish populations have declined, many have become guides. But the requirement for guides was reduced which means that many guides do not know about Galapagos ecology. Those who fish have had regulations imposed to facilitate better fishing practices, but the fisherman retaliated by committing various piratical acts. The fragile ecology situation is up against fragile economic situation. Made worse by the unstable and usually corrupt politicians.
The species diversity of Galapagos Islands influenced the ideas of evolution. Darwin was not the first evolutionist as there were others before him such as Jean-Baptiste Lamarck. It would take time for Darwin to consider what he learned at the islands to be valid of proof of natural selection. All these ideas that were competing with religious beliefs. But the ideas of Darwin, and learning economic reasoning from Thomas Robert Malthus, lead to the understanding of adaptation in order to survive, to the theory of evolution by natural selection.
June 9, 2020
Thanks to my dad for the loan of this book after my trip to the Galapagos was cancelled due to Covid 19.
The book was frightening and made me think I had missed my chance at seeing the Galapagos in all of its natural glory, but I stopped and reminded myself that it was a 10 year old book and that - if anything - the lack of tourism this year should help to reduce some of the negative impacts.
Really interesting parts of this books - overfishing, the elimination of feral goats that were decimating the tortoise population, corruption, impact of tourism, descriptions of the marine and avian life. Especially amazed at the number of guides that believe in creationism!
My issues with the book were threefold:
First, there was not much flow between or sometimes within chapters so that while there was tons of information, there was no narrative or arc to the book.
Second, there were so many persons and for the most part, it seemed like there was way too much time spent on their backstories, which for the most part, were not all that important to the overall theme.
Finally, there was repetition of facts and stories within the book - things that I am surprised was not caught in the editing.
Overall, glad I read it. Hope I actually get to go there, and my appreciation will be increased as a result of this book.
The book was frightening and made me think I had missed my chance at seeing the Galapagos in all of its natural glory, but I stopped and reminded myself that it was a 10 year old book and that - if anything - the lack of tourism this year should help to reduce some of the negative impacts.
Really interesting parts of this books - overfishing, the elimination of feral goats that were decimating the tortoise population, corruption, impact of tourism, descriptions of the marine and avian life. Especially amazed at the number of guides that believe in creationism!
My issues with the book were threefold:
First, there was not much flow between or sometimes within chapters so that while there was tons of information, there was no narrative or arc to the book.
Second, there were so many persons and for the most part, it seemed like there was way too much time spent on their backstories, which for the most part, were not all that important to the overall theme.
Finally, there was repetition of facts and stories within the book - things that I am surprised was not caught in the editing.
Overall, glad I read it. Hope I actually get to go there, and my appreciation will be increased as a result of this book.
August 24, 2021
The Galapagos is not the mystical place that we imagine it to be. There is a mixture of interests and beliefs all colliding on the islands. There are fishermen who illegally collect sea cucumbers, shark fins, and sea lion penises for sale on the black market. There are residents who are poorly educated and scarcely motivated to seek out a better life for themselves - let alone for the islands. And there are national park guides who don't believe in evolution at all. All of this churns within an unstable and corrupt political system in which laws are ignored and most of the money goes into the coffers on the mainland.
February 2, 2019
What a great book! The author writes clearly and moves the narrative along quickly. Each chapter is filled with great stories and experiences that put the current situation of the Galapagos into perspective. The author does not shy away from difficult topics of habitat destruction, invasive species, political corruption, and more. Anyone interested in the Galapagos should read this book. Any one planning on going to the Galapagos should read this book, though it may make you feel guilty about going.
November 30, 2024
Comprehensive, concise, and expansive. You get a taste of everything about Galapagos with this book, from its geology, to its history, to Darwin, real pirates, fishing pirates, anti-poaching privateers, travel guide, travelogue, corrupt mayors cutting down mangroves, goats, birds, more birds, a padre who left his order, overly dramatic fights between neighbors, and even a nuanced and well investigated overview of the complex political dynamics 15 years ago that made governance of the islands so difficult.
It reads like a history book at first, then a travelogue/environmental conservation playbook, then finally an investigative journal. This might not be for everyone since it does lack certain cohesion, but it's perfect for me as I'm counting down the days to making landfall.
The most interesting topic for me was the problem of governance - the fishermen (whose livelihoods are at stake) vs the National Park (who is very narrowly focused on conservation without taking the appropriate steps to take the community along). The book portrays this cat and mouse game where, in an extremely corrupt nation like Ecuador, as the fisherman are squeezed beyond their own sustenance, they begin to organize into the Fishing Mafia, leading to overfishing (depleting their own livelihoods), buying political power, importing more fishermen from mainland to increase their representative power (which also increases the overfishing), operating illegal tourism rackets, and everything in between (including actual piracy) in order to maximize their own profits (to the point where they are no longer fishermen). It's absolutely captivating!
(Read on the windy mountain/altiplano roads between Salento and Bogotá, T-3 days from Galapagos)
It reads like a history book at first, then a travelogue/environmental conservation playbook, then finally an investigative journal. This might not be for everyone since it does lack certain cohesion, but it's perfect for me as I'm counting down the days to making landfall.
The most interesting topic for me was the problem of governance - the fishermen (whose livelihoods are at stake) vs the National Park (who is very narrowly focused on conservation without taking the appropriate steps to take the community along). The book portrays this cat and mouse game where, in an extremely corrupt nation like Ecuador, as the fisherman are squeezed beyond their own sustenance, they begin to organize into the Fishing Mafia, leading to overfishing (depleting their own livelihoods), buying political power, importing more fishermen from mainland to increase their representative power (which also increases the overfishing), operating illegal tourism rackets, and everything in between (including actual piracy) in order to maximize their own profits (to the point where they are no longer fishermen). It's absolutely captivating!
(Read on the windy mountain/altiplano roads between Salento and Bogotá, T-3 days from Galapagos)
May 2, 2023
This provides a very different view of the Galapagos than we got from our small tour boat. Bassett focuses a stern eye on the damage done to the islands by settlers, tourists and even scientists and describes how much harder it is to live on islands with inadequate water, health care or sanitation than to cruise around them on a luxurious tour ship.
Frankly, I found the myriad of problems on the islands to be dispiriting and eventually put the book aside. Also, I was published over ten years ago, so it is a bit out of date with respect to the management of the islands. At least according to Wikipedia, "In July 2010, the World Heritage Committee agreed to remove the Galápagos Islands from its list of precious sites endangered by environmental threats or overuse." So, maybe there is a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel.
Frankly, I found the myriad of problems on the islands to be dispiriting and eventually put the book aside. Also, I was published over ten years ago, so it is a bit out of date with respect to the management of the islands. At least according to Wikipedia, "In July 2010, the World Heritage Committee agreed to remove the Galápagos Islands from its list of precious sites endangered by environmental threats or overuse." So, maybe there is a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel.
August 5, 2019
An easy reading overview of the many aspects of Galapagos
Essays on a variety of issues, happenings and biology of The Gálapagos islands. A must read for anyone interested in the natural history of Earth, an interest we all should have.
Essays on a variety of issues, happenings and biology of The Gálapagos islands. A must read for anyone interested in the natural history of Earth, an interest we all should have.
June 20, 2021
Crisis In Paradise
The book covers the current challenges of the Galapagos from the perspectives of an investigative journalist with a healthy history in visiting the archipelago.
The book covers the current challenges of the Galapagos from the perspectives of an investigative journalist with a healthy history in visiting the archipelago.
February 1, 2026
DNF. Reads like a travelogue, rather than a in-depth history of the island. Starts off strong, but failed to keep my interest.
May 1, 2024
Excellent. I read this book because I was visiting the Galapagos and wanted to know about the place before I arrived.
This book was published in 2009 by the National Geographic Society so it may be a bit outdated but I still found it helpful.
The author explained that the Galapagos is ever changing and the result of pirates, conservations, and corrupt politicians. Such a shame at times. She explained how goats were added to the land but over the years they ate the crops that the giant tortoises ate. Steps had to be taken. A kill program was established which some people didn't like but the giant tortoises were able to survive again. Personal note: I think my guide in the Galapagos is the son of the park ranger responsible for the kill program.
I also learned about the myth of Charles Darwin. I had thought, wrongly, that he came up with the idea of evolution. He didn´t. In fact, he only stayed in the Galapagos for a few weeks. When he returned home to England, he read about evolution from others but he was the person who published a book about evolution. Another personal note: there is a small display at the Charles Darwin Research Center about Charles Darwin. There is an explanation about his involvement with the idea of evolution that verifies what the author has written.
I enjoyed reading this book and especially visiting the islands.
This book was published in 2009 by the National Geographic Society so it may be a bit outdated but I still found it helpful.
The author explained that the Galapagos is ever changing and the result of pirates, conservations, and corrupt politicians. Such a shame at times. She explained how goats were added to the land but over the years they ate the crops that the giant tortoises ate. Steps had to be taken. A kill program was established which some people didn't like but the giant tortoises were able to survive again. Personal note: I think my guide in the Galapagos is the son of the park ranger responsible for the kill program.
I also learned about the myth of Charles Darwin. I had thought, wrongly, that he came up with the idea of evolution. He didn´t. In fact, he only stayed in the Galapagos for a few weeks. When he returned home to England, he read about evolution from others but he was the person who published a book about evolution. Another personal note: there is a small display at the Charles Darwin Research Center about Charles Darwin. There is an explanation about his involvement with the idea of evolution that verifies what the author has written.
I enjoyed reading this book and especially visiting the islands.
October 5, 2009
In Galapagos at the Crossroads: Pirates, Biologists, Tourists, and Creationists Battle for Darwin’s Cradle of Evolution there are so many culprits and plot twists that at times you may feel that you are in the midst of a soap opera. Unfortunately it is not a soap opera, but a real life war raging against the Galapagos and surprisingly one that tourists are contributing to on their Galapagos holiday.
At first glance, the Galapagos is a success story. Over 97% of the Galapagos is protected and is a national park. Only 5 of the 12 islands are inhabited. It is the only archipelago in the world that has maintained 95% of its original diversity, all very impressive statistics.
However, in Galapagos at the Crossroads, Bassett introduces us to villains that come in all shapes and sizes that may result in the demise of the pristine Galapagos. Villains that come in the shape of politicians, economics, overpopulation, rioting fishermen, shark finners, unsustainable fishing practises, lack of law enforcement, law of laws, lack of educated local citizens, creationist guides who lead tours of the Galapagos without mentioning evolution, tourism and with tourism the constant threat of invasive species not to mention the already present invasive species. Whew, that’s a long list! For more on this book go to: http://hubpages.com/_soci/hub/Galapag...
At first glance, the Galapagos is a success story. Over 97% of the Galapagos is protected and is a national park. Only 5 of the 12 islands are inhabited. It is the only archipelago in the world that has maintained 95% of its original diversity, all very impressive statistics.
However, in Galapagos at the Crossroads, Bassett introduces us to villains that come in all shapes and sizes that may result in the demise of the pristine Galapagos. Villains that come in the shape of politicians, economics, overpopulation, rioting fishermen, shark finners, unsustainable fishing practises, lack of law enforcement, law of laws, lack of educated local citizens, creationist guides who lead tours of the Galapagos without mentioning evolution, tourism and with tourism the constant threat of invasive species not to mention the already present invasive species. Whew, that’s a long list! For more on this book go to: http://hubpages.com/_soci/hub/Galapag...
January 14, 2011
I am reminded of the line from The Adventures of Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension — no matter where you go, there you are. The writer is dragging all the baggage of what environmental writing is supposed to be along behind her. She's at her best, her most interesting, when she's writing from personal experience about going out with scientists and photographers while they worked. The tortoises in the mist, the waved albatrosses, the green sea turtles. But she feels compelled to throw in statistics from the UN Panel on Climate Change, that though everyone agrees they have their hearts in the right place, their numbers have been discredited. She interviews ecoterrorists. She hates tourists that don't come as part of a volunteer work program.
A mixed bag of the good and the expected.
A mixed bag of the good and the expected.
February 26, 2010
This is an interesting (if a little repetitive) book about all the things that are going wrong in the Galapagos. Yes, tourism's one factor, but I refuse to feel guilty about my trip there this summer when corruption and inefficient enforcement of laws are the bigger problems.
Can't wait to see those boobies dance! Dance, boobies, dance!
Can't wait to see those boobies dance! Dance, boobies, dance!
November 13, 2011
Hmm, maybe I should have read this before we booked our trip to Galapagos...that being said, good stuff to know, not being covered by any other contemporary writings. The chapters read a bit more like stand alone essays so you can dip in and out so some repetition if you read right through. Great bibliography.
May 2, 2018
We published an excerpt of the book in Issue 4 of SR< and I was so impressed by Carol Ann that I asked her to come read at Arizona State University. She was truly wonderful! This book is a well researched, thoughtful, insightful, educated and careful look at the state of one of the earth's most important regions.
October 3, 2009
Everyone should read the introduction of this book to get a great overview of what is going on the Galapagos right now. I like how the book gets to big-picture problems and ideas through stories about individuals. It got a little repetitive in the middle, but overall a good read.
May 11, 2015
As my mother said, "depressing". But also a great overview of the dangers facing the Galapagos for any prospective visitor, though repetitively at times. Recommend to anybody with a Galapagos trip in their future.
June 8, 2017
Very interesting book. Good insight to the issues they have had to save the original enviorment of the islands. A great read prior to visiting the islands, which I did in Nov 2015. Great adventure
August 9, 2009
Ultimately worthwhile to read before a trip to the Galapagos...I just didn't have patience for the pockets of cheese in the writing.
June 14, 2014
I enjoyed it but didn't finish it. Good information, but not amazing. Too many descriptions of people's physical attributes.
November 30, 2015
Great subject-matter, but repetitive and uninspired writing held it back. None of the poetic glee of older popular science while bogged down in environmental preachiness.
October 6, 2012
great vignettes of the struggles to maintain the sanctity of the beautiful creatures in the islands
Displaying 1 - 24 of 24 reviews