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224 pages, Hardcover
First published December 1, 2003
No one who hasn't been here can claim to be more than half human or any sort of European. It is free, open, intellectual in the best sense, and ironic in its magnificent pathos. Every cab driver here is wittier than any one of our authors. We really are a miserable lot. Here everyone smiles at me …. I feel at ease with everyone, even though we continually misunderstand each other when we talk about practical things, just because we understand each other so perfectly on every subtlety and nuance. … The cattlemen with whom I eat breakfast are more aristocratic and refined than our cabinet ministers; patriotism is justified here, nationalism is a demonstration of a European conscience, every affiche is a poem, court announcements are as elegant as our best prose, cinema billboards display more imagination and psychological insight than do our contemporary novels, the soldiers are like whimsical children, the policemen witty editorial writers.The fact that there was a German audience back home for such critical commentary reminds us that not all of post-war Germany awaited hyper-nationalistic fascism with enthusiasm.