Miss Dior is supposed to be a biography of Catherine Dior, the little sister of designer Christian Dior. During the Occupation, she joined the Resistance. She was eventually arrested, tortured, and deported to Ravensbrück and other concentration camps. She survived the death march from a satellite camp of Buchenwald to Dresden. She returned to France in the summer of 1945, where she lived a quiet life until her death in 2008.
I say the book is "supposed" to be a biography because that is what is announced on the back cover, in the summary on the inside flap, and in the introductive chapter of the book; on page 4, Picardie writes: "...I would tell the story of this silent woman and her unknown comrades, who had somehow survived Ravensbrück and returned to France..." However, Picardie seems to forget that this was her aim, and once Catherine is back from Germany (about at the halfway point of the book), it becomes all about Christian Dior, and Catherine becomes a very, very secondary character.
The most successful feature of the book is without a doubt the object itself. The book is beautiful. Of the 404 pages preceding the acknowledgements, 136 are used for pictures (photographs, fashion drawings, historical documents...), many of them in colour. And it is all printed on quality paper.
Picardie set herself the difficult task of writing the biography of someone who is not famous. That generally means that there are few historical documents to work with. Sometimes this lack of public information is offset by a wealth of private information when the person leaves journals, letters or such personal documents behind. But it appears this is not the case with Catherine Dior.
To remedy this lack of information, Picardie spends a lot of time describing the context. Since Catherine didn't write her memoirs or talked much about her experience in Germany, Picardie quotes the testimonies of other women who were deported approximately at the same time and suffered the same treatment. In contrast, she also describes the atmosphere of Paris during the Occupation and after. She does a very good job at describing Paris as a place of luxury for the upper classes of Parisians for whom the war was never much more than a petty inconvenience.
After Catherine's return from Germany, she seems to vanish from the book. On page 198, we are told that in the autumn of 1945, she moves to Paris to live with her lover (a married man) in her brother's apartment, and that she works as a flower dealer in Les Halles (the big market in the center of Paris). The next mention of her personal circumstances comes 115 pages later, at page 313, where it says that by 1949, Catherine and her lover had moved out of Christian's apartment to live closer to Les Halles. And that is all the information we ever get on the subject. What was her work like? What was the atmosphere of les Halles? How did the stark contrast between the abundance at Les Halles (all the food eaten by Parisians was sold through Les Halles) and the famine of the concentration camp play on her mind? What were her financial circumstances? Did she experience social difficulties because she was living with a married man in what was still a rather conservative society? How were her relations with her family members other than Christian (she had a sister and two other brothers)? Not a word is said on any of that, and it looks like Picardie made no effort to get that sort of information.
From about page 200 on, the only time Catherine appears as an individual is in the chapter about the trial of the Gestapo unit who arrested and tortured her. She testified at the trial held in 1953, and her testimony helped to convict these people. Elsewhere, she is mentioned only in relation to Christian. It is as though, for Picardie, Catherine ceased to be important when her story ceased to be spectacular (I am tempted to say "glamourous", in as much as the word can be applied in relation to torture and concentration camps). Catherine did live another six decades after the war, yet it is as though it doesn't count.
It seems that Picardie's only interest in Catherine after the war was as the potential inspiration behind the name Miss Dior (the perfume and the dress). Yet she makes clear that Catherine was not her brother's muse (page 245: "she was not a fashion muse for her brother") and that she had nothing to do with his couture house. I am left with the distinct impression that Picardie looked for Catherine where she was not (the world of couture) and was not interested in looking for her where she was (a working class Parisian dealing flowers in Les Halles).
Since most of the story told is set in Paris and concerns French people, the text is peppered with French phrases. For most of them, no translation is provided. If you are not fashionable enough to understand French, tough luck. And if you know French, you are in no better position, because you will notice mistakes. Given the number of French words in the book, the ratio of mistakes per 20-words is not bad, but the mistakes are nevertheless there. I have to say that all the phrases are well used and absolutely spot on. They all mean what they are supposed to mean, and they are not there just as ornaments. This rarely happens in books written in English, so I am happy to give due praise.
Another element that I disliked is Picardie's insistence on showing the reader that she is "communing" with her subject. She keeps referring to the ghost of Catherine and hoping that it will speak to her (it does not). She goes to various places where Catherine has been (her childhood house in Normandy, the various camps where she was held, her house in Provence...), but these trips are not so much information gathering expeditions as pilgrimages. Picardie does consult the archives, but she seems to believe that the important information she got from these visits is how she felt in these places.
Despite all the negative points, it is not a bad book. It depends very much on how you view it. As a study in contrast between the horrors of World War Two and the frothiness of the couture world in post-war Paris, this book is successful. As a biography of Catherine Dior, it is a failure.