On the Road with Francis of Assisi: A Timeless Journey Through Umbria and Tuscany, and Beyond

by Linda Bird Francke

On the Road with Francis of Assisi offers a unique and lively travelogue of parallel journeys: that of Francis of Assisi on his way to sainthood in the thirteenth century, and that of author Linda Bird Francke, who followed his path through the beauty of central and coastal Italy–and even on to Egypt.

Francke tells the compelling story of Saint Francis through the many places he visited. She and her husband, Harvey Loomis, used as their guidebooks medieval texts, including the first official biography of the saint, completed in 1229, just three years after he died. Theirs was not a spiritual journey but one based on admiration for a man whose legend continues to inspire and fascinate millions around the world.

From Assisi–a small Umbrian town that now draws five million visitors a year, making it second only to Rome as an Italian pilgrimage destination–Saint Francis crisscrossed Italy for twenty years. And so too does the author travel through the “green heart” of Italy to such hill towns and cities as Siena, Bologna, Venice, Gubbio, and Rome, and to the many mountaintop Franciscan sanctuaries from La Verna and Le Celle di Cortona in Tuscany to the Rieti Valley.

Along the way, Francke movingly depicts the many miracles Francis performed and draws us into the splendid beauty of the landscape that inspired the saint’s love for nature and regard for all living things. Unlike Francis, however, whose asceticism caused him to add ashes to his food to deaden its earthly pleasure, Francke and her husband indulge in the fabled Umbrian cuisine, from wild boar to the region’s famed black truffles, and the incomparable local wines.

On the Road with Francis of Assisi embraces the spirit and person of its legendary subject, and invites the reader to marvel at his spiritual intensity and follow in his footsteps through the timeless beauty of Italy.


From the Hardcover edition.

Genres: Travel, Biography, Religion, Nonfiction, Italy, History

304 pages, Paperback

First published January 1, 2005

About the author

Linda Bird Francke is an award-winning journalist and former Newsweek editor, best known as the author of Ground Zero: The Gender Wars in the Military and Growing Up Divorced. She lives in Sagaponack, New York, with her husband, Harvey Loomis.

Reviews

[Bob · Rating 3 out of 5]

Enjoyable bio of St. Francis combined with a travelogue of the author's journey through Italy in his footsteps. In some ways I often think this form is the most appropriate way to write medieval history--intertwining a modern day pilgrimage with research into the history of the locales being traveled. I love these books that work through the metaphor of the journey--a couple of others that fit this model are Rion Klawinski's Chasing the Heretics: A Modern Journey through the Medieval Languedoc (history of the Albigensian crusades) and John Freccero's Dante: The Poetics of Conversion (a reading of the Comedy).

I've developed a deeper respect for what an earth shaking presence St. Francis was (in my book he's on par with Jesus and Gandhi)--and as I read the book I continually found myself thinking of different passages in Dante that seem to clearly reference Francis, so I'll need to re-visit the Comedy to think about that some more. I've always been interested in all the stories about Francis that talk about him getting rid of clothing (starting with his nude renunciation of his patrimony in the town piazza) and the implicit comparison to the people Dante ridicules for appropriating clothing that isn't theirs. I wrote my final paper for my medieval studies minor on this topic and I'd like to study it some more.

[Victoria Noe · Rating 4 out of 5]

Francke originally wanted to write about St. Francis of Assisi and his friendship with St. Clare. But Clare was a cloistered nun most of her life, while Francis traveled widely. On the advice of her agent, she wrote a travelogue, tracing Francis' steps through his entire life.

I thought I already knew a lot about both Clare and Francis, but I knew nothing. Francke's book is marvelous, not just telling their story, but putting it all in historical perspective. She talks about each location - then and now - and honestly, by the end of the first chapter, I wanted to book a flight on Alitalia.

If you want to discover the real Francis of Assisi, not the touchy-feely friend of animals, read this book. Then let it be your guide for a trip to Italy.

[Judy · Rating 5 out of 5]

Ms. Francke does a graceful job of blending personal travel stories with the story of Francis. She is not particularly religious, just curious -so a good companion for modern trip to Italy. Influenced in part by this book, I am going to spend a week in Umbria.

[Lisal Kayati Roberts · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book checked so many boxes for me. I am not Catholic but Saint Frances has spoken to my soul for most of my life. I’ve read many books about him and pilgrimaged to Assisi. What I loved most about the “Francis” part of this marvelous travelogue is how flawed and human he was. He tried so hard to be all that Jesus Christ was and in that process he often hovered on the edge of zealotry and extremism. Of course God forgives us our humanity and so with Francis. God didn’t canonize him - people did.
I learned so much more about his life and travels through this well-written and researched journey. I especially love that the author was not religious- just curious. She was fascinated by his life and followed his footsteps to satisfy her curiosity. It was not a walk of adoration. I believe this perspective gave the story an unbiased authenticity. Her descriptions would make any reader hungry to visit Italy!

[Overbooked ✎ · Rating 2 out of 5]

Interesting concept for a travelogue, unfortunately the book suffers from very poor editing, with misspelled Italian names and loose translations, too much repetition (e.g. two whole chapters virtually the same) and the chronology of events in Francis’ life jumping back and forward.
The author spends a long time on the many legends, but provides only a feeble sense of the real man behind the saint, a superficial description of the historical setting he lived in (early 1200s), very little context for the many places the author visited, and she doesn’t explain the spiritual aspects of the Catholic religion that Francis taught (she only emphasizes the saint’s vow of poverty and austere way of life). Maybe, in the book, she could have limited the dizzyingly large number of places in favor of a more in-depth description of only a few ones, i.e. the most meaningful in Francis’ mission, and a better (in-depth) study of her protagonist?
Surprisingly, for a travelogue, there are only small black and white photographs and few maps (and no itinerary) at the beginning of the book, which made it hard to follow the author’s journey and commentary. Judging from the high GR rating, other readers have found the book useful, but for me it was not as good as I hoped.

[William · Rating 3 out of 5]

Read it because I spent a couple weeks in the region of Italy that this books describes..and yes I must go back soon..but if you read it you will soon tire of the many villages, hermitages, convents, churches and endless miracles of St. Francis..apparently he had one for every passerby and animal...but the author chronicles every one and the tour is great...if you haven't been to that part of Italy as I have ..starve yourself before you go..every meal is six courses and every sight...as the author makes clear is more beautiful than the last..if you are religious..and can emmulate St. Francis..this is your guide.

[Jane · Rating 4 out of 5]

If/when I take an extended vacation in Italy, I will take along a copy of this book, all marked up with places where I want to visit, stay, and eat! Assisi is my favorite Italian town, and after reading her chapter on that charming place I definitely need to return and see some of the less touristy sites there In her descriptions of the places Francis visited, Francke puts the reader in touch with what I believe is the 'real" Francis, not the one the tourist encounters in the huge cathedral in Assisi, where my Catholic son said in an offended tone, "Francis would hate this!"

Not a thriller of page-turner, this is a book to savor.

[Carmen · Rating 4 out of 5]

Loved loved loved this book!! Especially because I have been in most of the places the book mentions. Also after spending time in Assisi and learning more about Francesco I feel close to him and living peacefully just like he proposed.

[Jeff · Rating 4 out of 5]

I'm almost at a loss as to how to begin this. Obviously, I knew very little about St. Francis of Assisi. I thought I knew little bit, but it was mostly from legends about him and animals. Oh, and, of course, his famous prayer, "Lord, make me an instrument of Your peace . . ."

In 2004, Linda Bird Francke and her husband went on a "road trip" through Italy, retracing the steps of the great saint, following the course of his life. This book is the memoir of that trip. It is not strictly a biography, because, goodness knows, there is an abundance of biographies about both Francis and St. Clare. Initially, Ms. Francke intended this book to be about both of them, but, while Clare is featured heavily in the book, it primarily centers around Francis.

It is a delightful book, and quite inspiring, as the author gives us her impressions as they travel. The descriptions are so vivid that it is easy to picture the countryside and landscapes through which they traveled. That being said, I found myself wishing for photographs. Then I came to one of two groups of photos that are in the book. Alas, though, they are all black and white, which is greatly unsatisfying. Oh, well. At least there were pictures.

Interspersed with the descriptions of their travel, we get snippets of the life and legends surrounding St. Francis of Assisi. We visit the many hermitages that he founded, along with churches that he restored and "monasteries" that he also founded. Apparently, St. Francis was extremely charismatic, and it seemed quite easy for him to amass a great following of other men, along the way. And, of course, they eventually became the Franciscan Order.

Ms. Francke also does a fantastic job of retelling the many legends that surround the saint. Many of these are so fantastic that one wonders if they are true. I will reserve judgment on this, myself. I m not here to do that. I find myself to be inspired by the life of this great man, because of her writing in this book. I don't necessarily aspire to live in poverty, as he did. But I can see myself adapting his perspective on ownership of things. Not to the point that I own nothing at all, as was true of Francis, but the willingness to give things away. Francis was notorious for giving away new tunics of cloaks almost immediately after receiving them from other well-meaning people.

Perhaps the most astonishing legend of all is the one regarding him receiving the stigmata of Christ at La Verna, which allegedly left him to finish out his life in great pain and weakness. I knew nothing of this legend before reading this book.

Linda Bird Francke has left me with an appetite to learn more about St. Francis of Assisi, and for that I am grateful. I sincerely wish that I could follow their travel route, but seeing some of the hikes and climbs that they had to endure to get to some of these places makes me aware that, short of a miracle, that would be impossible. I will attempt, instead, to find as many visual representations as I can.

[Leanne · Rating 3 out of 5]

A wonderful "in the footsteps" kind of travelogue. This is one of my favorite genres--and I really enjoyed re-visiting the biography of Saint Francis as the author travels far and wide following in his footsteps. And wow, the friar traveled far and wide!!! Brava to the author for following him up and down Italy on his various "preaching tours," as well as all the way to Damietta when he famously tried to end the bloodshed of the crusaders in Egypt. The best part of this book is it truly follows the entire life of Francis. The writing is dull, though. Or maybe it was the lack of any personal stamp about why the author decided to write the book--is she a believer? A romantic?-- and more how it was changed. It came across as somewhat mechanical--that is, she wanted to write about St Francis and Claire but her agent suggested a travelogue and sister Claire never left her cloister so.... This book was great and I think anyone going to Assisi would love it, but it really did lack emotion or intellectual illumination of any kind.

[Mia · Rating 3 out of 5]

After several trips to Italy over the course of decades, I found this book. I have visited Tuscany and Umbria including the great cathedrals in Assisi, visited the caves with a guide and seen the famous frescos. . This little book was a chance to go back and remember that trip and other trips to that part of Italy. I was never following Francis but I crossed his path several times. For some reason I had never read the book, but it is a warm and lovely little book. I am in no way religious but the author’s motivation to understand the power of Francis and how he came to have such an important place in the Catholic Church does not require the reader to be faithful. The miracles performed by Francis are part of his story and the author presents them in a simple and respectful way. I read the book chapter by chapter over the course of a few weeks and it put me in a meditative frame of mind.

[Garnette · Rating 3 out of 5]

The author travels to the major sites connected with St. Francis’ life and travels. I knew next to nothing about St. Francis, so I found the combined travelogue/biography both entertaining and informative. I wanted something lighter and more grounded in the present than a dedicated biography. The author’s travels frequently took her off the beaten track to isolated caves and hermitages and to pilgrim destinations, providing a different perspective than the usual tourist experience. I was left with a sense of how profoundly twelfth century history continues to influence twentieth century life.

[PammyJane · Rating 4 out of 5]

The book is very well written, and interesting. However, by the end it did drag a bit and I was ready to be finished with it and St. Francis. After reading this book I am much more keen to travel in Italy again, and much less impressed with St. Francis, whom I previously knew almost nothing about.

[Nicole · Rating 5 out of 5]

If I could rate this a 4.5, I would. This book is exceptionally wonderful if you are interested in the life of St. Francis of Assisi and would either like to visit the places he lived/preached in, or are doing research on this topic. I wouldn’t say this is a casual read. Definitely keeping it in my library.

[Mike · Rating 3 out of 5]

A nicely written tour of sites associated with Saint Francis of Assisi. Written in a respectful tone while acknowledging that most source material was written by supporters who pass along charming stories.

Not for everyone, but an easy read.

[S.L. Berry · Rating 4 out of 5]

Covering the travels through Italy and a bit of Egypt during the Crusades and the ministry of St. Francis of Assisi, it’s part travelogue, history, biography, and theology though not too heavy on the last.

[Larissa Langsather · Rating 3 out of 5]

Good, informative, and really added some flavor to my Lenten reading this year.

[Kathryn · Rating 4 out of 5]

Excellently written book about an interesting person.

[Vickie · Rating 4 out of 5]

Combination biography and travelogue Both were interesting.

[Joe · Rating 4 out of 5]

I wish I'd read this book before visiting Assisi in 1997, as Francis' home city is just one part of the many adventures he undertook. If I ever go back, this book is a wonderful guide for trips around central Italy.

When the author says "on the road", she means literally. Linda Bird Francke and her husband start in Assisi and use medieval texts and modern biographies to find the roads, paths, homes, and churches that Francis visited during his lifetime. Along the way, the reader is treated to the hills, valleys, and food of Umbria, Tuscany, and beyond. The well written narrative includes large castles, small caves, mountain top grottoes, and many local shrines that continue to inspire residents and pilgrims. Although not a religious book per se, one can't help being caught up in the spiritual revival that Francis inspired.

Highly recommended for admirers of Francis and armchair travelers craving Italy.

[Brittany · Rating 4 out of 5]

Travelogue-style biography of St. Francis. The travelogue was a fun way to get the biography and geography of St. Francis all rolled into one. I had fun following along with Francke's and her husband's journey. I read this as my own personal supplement to the children's St. Francis books I read to my kids as part of this year's Medieval homeschool adventure. I needed something a little more mature than picture books, although those were great too :)

I actually lost the library book for several weeks and when I found it I had to turn it in before I could finish it. But I really enjoyed what I read. Now we have moved on to a different component so I might not be finishing the book. Too much to read! Too little time!

[Jennifer Rundlett · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book was a lovely way to become familiar with the larger than life legend of Francis of Assisi. I have since read other books on Francis but I always enjoying coming back to this travelogue style of writing. You really can see, feel and even taste this region of Assisi while you hear all the lovely tales that surround this great man.

[Minako Morin · Rating 4 out of 5]

Very enjoyable, thorough biography, with a touch of travelogue. I expected something a little more deep or profound in term of style, not because the subject is Francis but because the author is a former editor of Newsweek. She writes in a surprisingly light-handed, easy-to-approach everyday language. Sometimes it felt too light, considering what she was writing about.

The copy I had was a first edition, and I noticed quite a few editing errors.

[Christine · Rating 3 out of 5]

An interesting travel log as well as historical reference about the life of St. Francis and St. Clair. Since we are hosting an Italian exchange student from Rome it's fun to read about his ancient country seeped in so much history. The life of St. Francis is quite intriguing. It was a bit slow though and I did skip over a bit.

[Ryan · Rating 3 out of 5]

It's a good read if you want to kind of travel along with St. Francis, as the title suggests. It made me want to read an actual biography of this humble man and grow in admiration for him. An easy read that is goes back and forth between the present perspective of where Francis traveled and to the legends and stories surrounding him.

[CX Dillhunt · Rating 3 out of 5]

A fun read; great mix of 2004 travelog with the travels, prayers, exploits and monastic life of St Francis & his followers...the author is down to earth, has a genuine feel for the St Francis and a good sense of humor as she drives criss crossing Italy following the walking Francis. I think worth reading before/after traveling to Italy. Well documented.

[Heather Bolwar · Rating 5 out of 5]

In preparation for my upcoming trip to Assisi, I'm perusing this tome.--Back from my trip. This book was a fantastic read to take along with me! The author's writing style is such that the info about St. Francis and the areas he visited is not at all dry or textbooky. Quite the contrary. I would read this one again in the future, and it was an awesome travel companion for my trip!

[David R. · Rating 3 out of 5]

The author takes a walk literally in the footsteps of St. Francis, from his beginnings in Umbria, to his ill-fated crusade in Egypt, and throughout the many stops where he lived, preached, and reportedly worked miracles. The book gives a modern flavor to these locations, but it's not especially interesting always to know what she ate for lunch there. A so-so travelogue as they go.

[Rob & Liz · Rating 3 out of 5]

Intend to read and learn more about Tuscany and the Journey of Francis of Assisi. What I'd call a good travel book.
Rob