Strolling Through Istanbul: The Classic Guide to the City

by Hilary Sumner-Boyd, John Freely

Available for the first time since its original publication thirty-seven years ago, this classic guide to Istanbul by Hilary Sumner-Boyd and John Freely is published in a completely revised and updated edition. Taking the reader on foot through Istanbul, the European City of Culture 2010, the authors describe the historic monuments and sites of what was once Constantinople and the capital, in turn, of the Byzantine and Ottoman Empires, in the context of the great living city. Woven throughout are anecdotes, secret histories, hidden gems, and every major place of interest the traveler will want to see. Practical and informative, readable and vividly described, this is the definitive guide to and story of Istanbul, by those who know it best.

Genres: Travel, History, Nonfiction, Asia, Middle East, Architecture, Cities

544 pages, Paperback

First published January 4, 1987

Reviews

[dantelk · Rating 5 out of 5]

İstanbul'da yaşayan herkese bu kitaptan edinmelerini öneririm. Bu kitap sayesinde sadece İstanbul'a değil, kentleşmeye, tarihe, mimariye, hatta insanlara bakış açım değişti/etkilendi. Artık seyahat edeceğim her kent için, bu detayda kitap okuma ihtiyacı duyar oldum. İstanbul, böyle bir eserin mihmandarlığında gezilebildiği için bile başlı başına şanslı bir kent.

Ancak bu bir saha kitabı. Kitabın rehberliginde yuruyunce esprisi var. Evde okunamaz. :)

Bonus: Kara surlarını yürüyecek olanlar, The Byzantine Legacy sitesinde "Theodosian Walls" başlığı altındaki haritayı kullanarak, surdaki eski yazıların tercümelerini takip edebilirler. Maalesef goodreads link vermeye izin vermiyor. (thebyzantinelegacy . com)

[Kate · Rating 5 out of 5]

If you are coming to Istanbul and have an interest in history and architecture, you can't do any better than to bring along this book. But don't get me wrong, this isn't a Lonely Planet guide: it won't tell you where the cheapest hotels are; it won't tell you where to eat the best döner; nor will it tell you that the Hagia Sophia is closed on Mondays (which it is, btw) - but it will give you an idea of Istanbul as a whole city, a place connected not only by roads but by the people who came and went, and maybe even looked from the very same spots you will go to, to marvel at the "Cit of the World's Desire." I'd also venture to say that those who are interested in Istanbul's architecture might like to read this book even without visiting the city.

Its format is also not one for a rushed tourist, who will hit only a few important locations then head on to the next city. "Strolling Through Istanbul" has a self-descriptive title: Freely and Sumner-Boyd take you on a series of strolls through the city, where you are privy to all the information that's in their (incredibly informed) heads. They act like tour guides in book form (and this is also good because you can skip ahead when necessary, too). Just be sure to get the updated version (2010, this cover) because a lot has changed since they first published the book in the 70s.

The only thing that may hold someone back from loving this book is that they authors take for granted that you know (or will learn) the technical terms related to classical architecture, such as where the pendentives are in a domed church, what an ogival arch is, or what part of a column is called the capital. If these words are unfamiliar, one should browse through the first chapter or so and make a vocabulary list (like I had to do). To be clear, though, I'm not saying that this detracts from the book: I'd prefer this to having them simplify and dumb-down things, because these words exist for a reason. I'm in favor of keeping this kind of richness in a language - and besides, if I can learn the words, then anyone can. But still, this book will probably be too much for some people - but for those who do read it, it will be rewarding.

I also had the good fortune to hear John Freely speak at the Istanbul Book Fair last year, and he's really an amazing guy. He's written over 40 books (yes, forty), most of which are about Greece or Turkey, both of which are places where he's lived and calls home. Moreover he truly loves Istanbul, and it's evident in the care he takes in writing this guide. He also seems to be somewhat of a modern-day Renaissance man: he was a physics professor at Bogazici (Bosphorus) University for a good number of years, and can still be seen around the campus now and then. All in all, I totally wish he were my friend.

All in all (for real this time), "Strolling Through Istanbul" does what a good guidebook should do: it illuminates Istanbul, and brings a richness to one's travels that perhaps one wouldn't have gotten otherwise.

[Fusun Dulger charles · Rating 5 out of 5]

The book to have if you are visiting Istanbul. Forget all the other sight-seeing books, you only need this one.
I am Turkish and from Istanbul, I get a lot of foreign visitors and take them seeing all "The Must See Places of Istanbul" and I thought I knew my beloved city well.
What a mistake, after buying this book I decided to walk the suggested places and found some amazing hidden pearls.
Now, living in the USA when someone tells me they are going to Istanbul, I either lend them my copy or tell them to buy it.
A fabulous way to walk through Istanbul and discover some non-touristy charming places.

[Jennifer · Rating 2 out of 5]

Depending on your point of view, Strolling Through Istanbul is either exhaustive or exhausting. With 23 strolls that stretch the breadth of the city, it's certainly thorough, but one wonders occasionally to what point. More than once the authors draw attention to some feature of interest only to note "however, the restoration has wantonly destroyed all that was original in the structure and it is now hardly worth even a passing mention" - which kind of makes you question why they bothered to mention it in the first place. That kind of thing, along with the space spent detailing an auction that hasn't been held for years and the authors' tendency to refer to absolutely everything as "charming," makes me think this classic guide is in need of another good edit.

Mostly dry scholastic detail, there are occasional narrative jewels tossed into the openings of the chapters, but overall this guide is really only worthwhile if you're actually toting it about as you walk and consulting it every other step, which would be something of a trick given that it's about five hundred pages and not precisely lightly bound. For my money, I found the Lonely Planet to offer more versatility if not the same depth, while being smaller and lighterweight.

[Mehmet Dönmez · Rating 4 out of 5]

Freely’nin peşisıra okuduğum bu ikinci İstanbul kitabı, İstanbulun daha turistikleştiği son 50 yılda yazılmış ve her büyük eser gibi sonrasına esin kaynağı olmuş bir gezi rehberi. Epik “İstanbul: The Imperial City” ile bazı kısımlarda çok benzeşse de bu bir tarih anlatısı değil, ve bu detaylar, tarihsel figürler ancak bir yapıyla ilişkiliyse bahis konusu oluyor kitapta.

İmkanınız varsa siz benim yaptığımı yapmayın, şehri 23 paftaya bölen bu kitabı elinize alıp rotaları takip ederken okuyun kitabı, ben özellikle şehrin çok iyi bildiğim kısımlarını okurken kitabın künhüne daha çok vardım ve çok görmek istediğim ama hiç gitmediğim suriçini okurken mimari detaylarda boğuldum biraz, ki benim gibi temel mimari bilgiden yoksunsanız bazı kısımları okuması zor da olabiliyor.

Istanbul: Imperial City için de benzer bir yorum yazmıştım, bu iki Boğaziçili akademisyenin gözünden 60ların, 70lerin İstanbulu - benim istanbulum 2000lerde keşmekeş içinde, yorgun, başka bir şehirdi, ama o haliyle bile bana dokundu. Yazarlarımız şehrin geçirdiği devasa dönüşümün üzerine bu kitabı tekrar yazsalar, çıkacak eseri de bu kadar beğenir miydim, sanmıyorum.

[Michelle · Rating 3 out of 5]

An interesting take on the guidebook. The authors certainly know Istanbul well--but almost too well for a first-time visitor. The walks are fascinating but hard to follow, and if you're there less than a week you probably won't want this much depth. If you live in Istanbul, I can imagine this would be an enriching book. If you're visiting, don't let this be your only guidebook.

[جلجامش Nabeel · Rating 5 out of 5]

I planned to read this marvelous guide while taking on the same strolls in this ancient city. However, I could not do that on ground and go to every single site of great historical interest mentioned in the book, but I spent months reading it while going out in the city.

It is a book that talks to you, a storyteller of myths, legends, battles, passions, love stories, jokes, folktales, beliefs, and much history depicted in great vivid way that makes you live in each site you visit in all its details – both place and time. The authors are great historians and very knowledgeable of what they write on. I loved the sites I have been to many times much more after reading this book. This book will take you to ancient times, and make you read on Byzantium, Constantinople, and Istanbul at the same time. In this book, you can read on iconoclastic period, the Byzantine renaissance, and the Tulip Period in the 18th century. You will visit every church, mosque, library, museum, palace, and bath of interest. You will read the stories of great leaders who defend their cities, and conquerors celebrating their victories. You will read sad stories of executions, and forced conversion of many Christians under the Ottoman role, among whom Mimar Sinan who had built more than 120 establishments in Istanbul alone, and is highly praised in the book as in the Ottoman culture. You will read on the society, the mix of Turks, Greeks, Armenians, Chaldean-Assyrian, and Jews. This is a chance to discover the city, the stories of its foreign visitors and their impressions. The authors write on it with great passion and love, and I cannot imagine you not falling in love with it while reading their accounts.

It is a window on the architecture and the ways Ottoman styles blends with Byzantine and Roman ones. It is the best way to read on each place in a way that brings it back to life. I feel unable to summarize this huge book. I can say that I felt sad finishing it as if I had my trip to this culturally rich capital of two great empires.

If you want to discover the hidden treasures of Byzantine Empire, the mysterious Ottoman stories, and the repeated occupations and assaults on this city, including the Arab siege that was defeated by Constantine IV. If you want to discover the magic of the Byzantine iconography, and the charm of the Ottoman tiles, then you have to read this precious guide.

Gilgamesh Nabeel

[Achyut · Rating 3 out of 5]

This book is a good-ish guide to the old city, even if sometimes confusing and difficult to follow without google maps. The maps are not well drawn and a lot of naming is archaic. The main problem with the book, however, is how little justice it does to other parts of Istanbul that are just as good, if not better, than Fatih (old Constantinople). No mention of Kadiköy (which was my favourite neighbourhood) or even other areas like Çengelköy. 20 of 23 chapters are devoted to mosques and churches within the old city... and if that’s why you’re going to Istanbul then great. But I would spare enough time to enjoy the city vibes, parks, and people in other neighbourhoods where today’s istanbulites live.

[Kay · Rating 4 out of 5]

Dated but delightful. I only wish we'd had more time in Istanbul to devote to some of these wonderfully detailed walks. It's also the sort of guide book that is a bit on the ponderous side -- I actually didn't carry it but read things in advance and afterward. Packed full of fascinating anecdotes and historical tidbits, written by someone who knew the city inside and out, and through the ages.

[Letha · Rating 5 out of 5]

Beautifully written and engaging. This narrative is intellectually stimulating while presenting a vivid feast for the imagination! I'm inspired and ready to take a stroll through marketplaces and bazaars, gaze upon the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn, experience the sights and sounds and smells, and marvel at the architecture and history - take me away!

[Avinash Mamtora · Rating 4 out of 5]

Though I've not fully read it, would advise anyone who's about to go to this wonderful city to read it beforehand and then go back to the book each day as you wade through the archaeological marvel of this city. Alternately, if you're moving to Istanbul, the ideal thing would be to just read a chapter a day and complete the tour in the sequence that it is set out. A magical book.

[Monica · Rating 5 out of 5]

I laugh imagining actually using this to stroll through Istanbul. Perhaps one could take photocopies of the pages and carry them along. It is so dense, it is not a practical guidebook. But as a deep dive into the city and its architecture, it is immensely useful for preparing and planning a trip.

[Mafuzah · Rating 5 out of 5]

a must-read book for those who want to know about the historical buildings in Istanbul without tour guides.

[Elias · Rating 3 out of 5]

Worth reading but somewhat disappointing for me on my 5th trip back to Istanbul. Kind of stays on the surface but would be useful for someone on a first trip.

[Lauren · Rating 2 out of 5]

Had to put it down after 100 pages. Way too dry for such an engaging city.

[Abdulla · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a very useful and intriguing book. It's broken up into a series of chapters, divided into sections based on the neighborhoods/sections of Istanbul. Each chapter is designed to be followed through the course of a day, as one tours that particular neighborhood of the city.

It's very well-researched, and includes a number of interesting details. However, the chapters and descriptions are so detailed that they're virtually impossible to follow unless you're reading them while you're at each site. Additionally, because there are so many chapters and because the book is so thorough, there's not much sense of which sites to prioritize, if you're in Istanbul for a short period.

However, if you're in the city for longer than a week, *or* you have a really strong interest in history/architecture, I'd very much recommend this book. Because most sites in the city don't have plaques or signs detailing their history, this book comes in handy. You should get the Kindle edition, unless you're willing to carry around a full book.

[jm · Rating 4 out of 5]

Out of laziness, I only managed to do about half of this. Still, I wish there were travel guides like this for more cities. The majority of the walks was great fun and the author conveys his passion in a way that even I can get excited about where a certain marble came from. There's plenty of interesting information about what life used to be like and it's interesting to see how the city changed since the last update of this book. On the downside, it does end up being very heavy on mosques, and while there's plenty of beautiful ones, I wouldn't recommend doing multiple strolls in a few days like I did towards the end of my time in Istanbul.

[David Suttles · Rating 3 out of 5]

If you’re looking for an exhaustive verbal (no photos, just a few diagrams) description of the architecture of every mosque of note in İstanbul this is the book for you! That’s what about 90% of this book is. For that content, if that’s where your interest lies, it’s great. If you’re looking for something more evocative of the history and feeling of the city, look elsewhere. I was hoping for something like Jan Morris’s “Venice” but about İstanbul - this definitely isn’t that.

[Ege · Rating 4 out of 5]

İstanbul'un tarihi semtleri, mekanları ve eserleri hakkında aşırı detaylı ve kapsamlı bir kaynak. Görüp geçtiğiniz dikkatinizi vermediğiniz yerler için bile o kadar detaylı bilgiler var ki. Genel olarak rehber kitaplarından daha farklı kesinlikle, elime alayım İstanbul'u gezerken okuyayım da genel bilgi sahibi olayım diyeceğiniz türden bir kitap değil.

[landr · Rating 5 out of 5]

As advertised, this book is a great guide for those who want to stroll through this beautiful city. The book is fun to read. The authors expertly weave together the geography, culture and history that make Istanbul such a fascinating place.

[Norm Boese · Rating 3 out of 5]

Good as an overview of the city. Useful while I was on a trip to Turkey

[Nicholas Pink · Rating 4 out of 5]

Friend loaned before my trip to Istanbul. Good as a way to see the history of the city and how the modern world has been built on top of the old.

[Robert · Rating 5 out of 5]

A remarkable guide to the Byzantine and Ottoman monuments of Istanbul, broken up into afternoon-sized adventures.

[Ricardo Ribeiro · Rating 1 out of 5]

Boring, dry. This is, I believe, how school lessons were teach 60 years ago. And for good reasons they aren't anymore. Because there is no motivation or appeal in this scholastic sterile prose. The authors may have extensive knowledge on the subject, but they have no clue on how to pass it to readers. Or on how to write.

[David · Rating 3 out of 5]

I took this with me a few years ago, and although well-written and entertaining it is a bit out of date, so some of the routes literally lead up blind alleys. Good on the Byzantine monuments such as churches, and on the older mosques.

[HadiDee · Rating 2 out of 5]

A wealth of information (quite frankly too much), and a writing stlye that is a little dry and very even toned made this very difficult to read. Not one of the guidebooks I'm going to take with me.

3* for the reserach and info
2* for the writing
1* for making Istanbul feel so flat.

[Ros · Rating 5 out of 5]

I first started to read and use this book in the 1970's when it was first published. It is a great book that helps you discover the hidden parts of Istanbul as well as the major tourist sites such as Haghia Sophia, the Blue Mosque etc. I now have it on my Kindle!

[Pierian · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a fantastic guide to the monuments and history of Istanbul. I would have liked more notes on day-to-day life, culture, and social history of the Istanbul's neighborhoods to round out the experience of "strolling through" this vibrant city.

[Courtney · Rating 4 out of 5]

If you're going to spend any longer length of time in Istanbul, take this book. Freely and S-B have exhausted the city's history in their tours of major and minor places.

[Nadia.. Carey · Rating 5 out of 5]

i love detailed travel history books..and this one is full of travel,and also history and i hope to visit Instanbul someday..