Acclaimed journalist and travel writer Lieve Joris takes us behind the gates of a Damascus family and community in the second half of 1991, and in the process, the innate tribalism of the Middle East is brought home. But so is what is the same for women and families everywhere.
Taking advantage of an easing of limitations as Syria's President Assad Père (as distinguished from his son who currently is president) curries favor with the west, Hala, a Sunni Muslim whose husband has been a political prisoner for 11 years, invites Joris, an old friend from her youth, for an extended visit. The Gulf War is just ended, The Madrid Peace Talks are underway, and Joris has not seen her friend, or been able to visit Damascus, for over 12 years. What Joris discovers, and thus gifts to the reader, is an amazingly intimate view - nay an experience - of a household of Syrian women.
Hala, a sociologist, is the family breadwinner and works in the sociology department of the university. She has worked hard and acquired a house with several rooms, a bathroom, a telephone, and a washing machine, in a neighborhood where the streets have no names and the houses no numbers, and all is behind a wall with a gate. Here she makes a home for her tomboy daughter Asma, now 11, whose entire knowledge of her father is based on regular visits to him in prison. From this house Hala copes with the demands of both her extended family and her husband Ahmed's. It is a world of women....as the men of the family have died, been imprisoned for political reasons, or have jobs in the Gulf - Qatar. And yet, even though it seems so much a world of women, the dictates of men still seem to control all. Hala long ago fell out of love with Ahmed, yet she fears divorcing him because his family would take her daughter Asma to raise. Her brother Selim returns from Qatar for a visit and to find a wife, yet he feels free to criticize and impose the more restrictive conservative Muslim beliefs observed in the Gulf Arabs on the women of his family whom he has not seen in years and will be leaving again soon.
Gradually we observe, as Joris does, Hala's endless suspicion of all but those closest to her, the belief that all are spying and reporting back to mukhabarat who spy for the government, her refusal to tolerate those belonging to different belief systems. And it really does seem that everyone is spying on everyone. You also come to recognize the fear that underlies so much of Hala's reactions. And most interesting, we see how Joris herself becomes enmeshed in the web of suspicion and fear, not feeling comfortable walking alone down the street or venturing out to explore Damascus. How accepting of the rituals and rythms of the household. And the reader also gets pulled in.
The book is structured in chapters, with each chapter covering a specific part of this extended visit: initial arrival and introduction to the family, a road trip to other cities north of Damascus, an engagement and a wedding, Joris' desert hike with other Christians to the Omayyad Palace outside Tadmor, the 1991 election, the rumors of prisoner release, and even a trip to Aleppo, which at first seems more European and open to Joris, but ultimately isn't. Joris' writing is that of an observer, a true journalist, whose own feelings and opinions rarely leak through ... until the final chapter. And then, just as the long visit reaches its end, when Joris is less a guest than a true member of Hala's family, her views burst out in tense discussions, and you realize along with Joris that Hala has grown into a different woman than the direction she was headed when they met at a conference in Baghdad 12 years earlier.
In the end, through this intimate world of Syrian women, you glean a pretty accurate view of Syrian politics and society at the end of the 20th century. That has of course all been lost by the recent Syrian war. I can't help but wish I knew if Hala and her daughter survived.