A HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF THIS POPULAR ROOT
Author David A. Taylor wrote in the Introduction to this 2006 book, “American ginsengers through the centuries were happy to collect the roots to sell, but it was rare for them to chew the root themselves. And there’s still a good deal of debate among American doctors about whether ginseng does any good. Depending on who you ask, ginseng either works to catalyze that body’s vital energy, or it acts as a mild tonic and antioxidant, or it’s a fraud. Some U.S. researchers have found that certain chemicals in American ginseng may protect brain cells against degenerative conditions like Parkinson’s disease. No one denies, though, that ginseng has, at least, a very powerful effect on the imagination.” (Pg. 3)
He observes, “Ginseng, like many others, faces the possibility that it will not survive in the wild for much longer. If it doesn’t, strands of our own history will be lost. Meanwhile, every fall, American ginseng continues to get shepherded along routes that lead from forests to the world’s cities and suburbs, passing through an eclectic assortment of hands… American ginseng roots, both wild and farm-grown, are shipped to South America, Europe, and Asia… The history of this modest plant brings together Iroquois botanical knowledge and… acupuncture… fraud and folklore. Perhaps no other plant encompasses quite this range and intensity of human experience. This book is about a plant poised between the danger of the wild and the safety of domestication, and is a picaresque of what life is like for a species balancing between extinction and stardom.” (Pg. 7-8)
He notes, Ginseng’s popularity is part of a larger surge in Americans’ consumption of herbal foods and beverages: from $30 million in 1997 to over a billion dollars a year now. This trend caused concern at the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, and in 2001 it warned companies that some products with ‘novel ingredients’ like ginseng could be illegal.” (Pg. 30)
He explains, “Asian ginseng’s reputation as a mild stimulant fit well with the Taoist idea of maintaining the body’s ‘qi’… Plus, its shape corresponded with another Taoist idea, that humans mirror the universe around them… The resemblance between an odd, branchy ginseng root and the human form made ginseng promising for many human ills.” (Pg. 35)
He recounts, “Early in the twentieth century, American use of medicinal herbs declined following the 1910 Flexner Report, a searing critique of medical education in the United States that influenced medical schools profoundly. The report urged that American medical schools focus on allopathic medicine, to the exclusion of many approaches that had once been popular, including herbalism.” (Pg. 42)
He states. “Ginseng was probably used as a food before it gained currency as a health tonic. In China, tonic cuisine has a long pedigree… In Korean cooking, too, ginseng is used in chicken soups and in other dishes… Most traditional recipes call for Asian ginseng, but as experience with American ginseng has grown, many chefs have embraced it… For most Western palates, though, the root has a long way to go. Energy shakes and smoothies are a step in that direction… Despite the commercial failure of Ginseng Rush, many other soft drinks and teas have established themselves on the market, including an uncola counterpart: Ginseng Up!... In over a decade with Ginseng up!... the drink’s market [grew] steadily and leap[ed] the divide from marginal specialty shops to mainline grocery stores… Exactly how much ginseng actually went into Ginseng Up! was hard to say.” (Pg. 239-241)
He concludes, “In searching for ginseng’s secrets, we glimpse what we value as humans. Its history tells us how much people through the ages have treasured good food, good health, and wealth, but also intangibles like tradition, longevity, and even (very recently) biodiversity. People are ginseng’s predators, its dispersal agents, and in rare cases, its protectors. Right now the plant is poised at a precarious junction. In the end, we will probably grasp ginseng’s true nature only when we appreciate our own mysterious place in the natural world.” (Pg. 275)
Persons primarily interested in Herbal Medicines and Naturopathy may be disappointed in this book’s lack of discussion of the possible ‘health benefits’ that may come from ginseng, but those wanting a cultural and social history of this plant will be very pleased with the book.