Every Day the River Changes: Four Weeks Down the Magdalena

by Jordan Salama

An exhilarating travelogue for a new generation about a journey along Colombia’s Magdalena River, exploring life by the banks of a majestic river now at risk, and how a country recovers from conflict.

An American writer of Argentine, Syrian, and Iraqi Jewish descent, Jordan Salama tells the story of the Río Magdalena, nearly one thousand miles long, the heart of Colombia. This is Gabriel García Márquez’s territory—rumor has it Macondo was partly inspired by the port town of Mompox—as much as that of the Middle Eastern immigrants who run fabric stores by its banks.

Following the river from its source high in the Andes to its mouth on the Caribbean coast, journeying by boat, bus, and improvised motobalinera, Salama writes against stereotype and toward the rich lives of those he meets. Among them are a canoe builder, biologists who study invasive hippopotamuses, a Queens transplant managing a failing hotel, a jeweler practicing the art of silver filigree, and a traveling librarian whose donkeys, Alfa and Beto, haul books to rural children. Joy, mourning, and humor come together in this astonishing debut, about a country too often seen as only a site of war, and a tale of lively adventure following a legendary river.

Praise for EVERY DAY THE RIVER

A Kirkus Reviews Best Book of the Year

"Stories that gleam like river stones... [a] richly observed debut." —Liesl Schillinger, The New York Times Book Review

"Jordan Salama writes with an attentiveness, and a sense of adventure, that many of us might envy; this engaging, intrepid debut promises many more wonders to come. Already he’s shown himself to be a writer with a rare (and inspiring) commitment to giving us the world.” —Pico Iyer, author of Autumn Light

“This is a born journalist."—John McPhee, Princeton University News

"From a canoe builder to a gaggle of biologists who study invasive hippopotamuses, as well as a traveling librarian and more, Salama transports you to this part of the world through new, fresh and beautiful narratives far from the negative connotations often associated with it." —Breanna Wilson, Forbes

"An unusually graceful and mature writer for one so young, Salama’s chronicle reflects excellent reportage, unfolding not unlike the film 'The Motorcycle Diaries' . . . Superb in its evocation of place and time, Every Day the River Changes deserves the widest possible audience. Salama’s is a triumph of travel literature . . . Clear-eyed yet open-hearted, journalistic but deeply humane, it is a clarifying window into a misunderstood culture . . . A privilege to read." —Bill Thompson, The Post and Courier

“A thoughtful book that impresses with its sweeping history, evocative descriptions, and fascinating stories of people living along the river . . . An engaging travelogue for the 21st century and a reminder that the best travel isn’t necessarily an epic adventure but a chance to hang out, getting to know new people—and yourself in the process.” —Erin Berger, Outside

"An impressive debut." —Emily Burack, Alma

"A moving book about social and cultural survival in the shadow of environmental and political chaos but also a deeply lyrical and astonishingly mature piece of writing . . . This stunning volume heralds an exciting new voice in narrative nonfiction." —Hannah Joyner, On The Seawall

"Rollicking . . . Salama’s account is at times mournful, inspirational, joyous, and somber. He offers a sprawling and gripping account of the people, a river, and a nation." —Jack Hartman, Princeton Alumni Weekly

"The book is more than a notable achievement in travel literature and more than a clarifying window into a misunderstood culture; it is a book of conscience and open-heartedness . . . It is a privilege to savor, if vicariously, this harvest of a promising writer’s vivid journeys." —Kirkus Reviews (starred review)

"A mesmerizing travelogue . . . Both complex and achingly beautiful, this outstanding account brims with humanity." —Publishers Weekly (starred review)

"By the time Salama ends his riveting journey, scrambling across the treacherous rocks where the Magdalena River meets the Caribbean Sea, he has already enticed readers to follow him on his next one." —Priscilla Kipp, BookPage

"Salama’s insightful observations leave readers with a deep and nuanced look at Colombia." —Booklist

"Tagging along with Jordan Salama as he makes his way along Colombia’s storied Magdalena River is a reminder that the best travel writing not only makes you want to visit a place, but feel as if you’ve been there already. Salama is a vivid writer and an intrepid explorer. Guided by the keepers of the Magdalena's history and lore, the Colombia he reveals is an epiphany." —Sue Halpern, author of Summer Hours at the Robbers Library

"If you're into armchair travel, Every Day the River Changes will have you gripping your chair arms with excitement and suspense. In his brave journeys through central Colombia, follow...

Genres: Travel, Nonfiction, Memoir, Nature, Environment, Biography Memoir, Travelogue

224 pages, Hardcover

Published November 16, 2021

Reviews

[Brina · Rating 3 out of 5]

At age twenty one, Jordan Salama enjoyed a more well rounded look at the world around him than most people. He is a descendant of an Iraqi mother and Syrian Argentine father who met at medical school in New York. Jordan grew up immersed in the Sephardic traditions that melded these traditions together, but he also got bit by the travel bug that had been in his family for generations. While a child, his parents taught him to appreciate the natural world around him, a tough commodity for a family growing up in suburban New York. At Colombia University, Jordan received a grant to travel to Colombia- the country- for a month as part of a fact finding mission researching the nation’s flora and fauna. In Colombia, Jordan enjoyed the encounters with all the people he met and craved more, so he proposed a senior thesis in which he would research life on Colombia’s Río Magdalena. His advisor balked at the idea because Colombia was then under the control of the FARC, but she eventually signed off on his travel plans. Everyday the River Changes grew out of Jordan’s thesis, which he wrote as a twenty one year old. It explores his encounters on a river that at one point rivaled the Mississippi as a conduit for a nation’s travel, resulting in a relaxing journey through a dangerous country.

When I discovered that Everyday the River Changes had originally been a college thesis, I took it at face value as a college thesis written by an unpolished twenty one year old. At one point all of us were unpolished twenty one year olds, and I know the author improves because I read his second book, in which he details a backing trip through Argentina, searching for his family’s roots. That book was fascinating or it could have been that I was drawn to the subject matter. Here, I am reminded why I generally do not read debuts, but I admit the subject drew me in. Jordan Salama spent a month in Colombia researching the people living along the Magdalena River. Like many parts of the world, the River basin has been affected by deforestation as well as the war with FARC and the ELN, which has caused the river to be a shell of its former self. In its heyday one hundred years ago, the Magdalena saw steamboats and barges transverse the River on a daily basis. It was home to countless species of fish and trees along its banks. Today the generations of fishermen who at one point saw a river teeming with fish are fortunate to catch small bocachicos to feed their families. Jordan encountered an impoverished yet happy people; with the war with the FARC all but over, these natives no longer fear for their lives on a daily basis. The way of life along the River is all that they know. Yes, they might not have much, but this is their life, and he finds that it is more laidback and genuine then that what he is used to in the cities.

Jordan’s encounters did provide for some upbeat moments. Following the death of Pablo Escobar, the hippopotamuses from his zoo escaped into the river and have since reproduced and them some. Their presence effects the ecosystem, but Jordan went on a trip on a motobalinero determined to spot some of these animals. People living in the Medio Magdalena region note that they see hippopotamuses on a daily basis. The government has decided not to hunt these animals, the only ones in the wild outside of Africa. How Colombia copes with their increased population is an issue moving forward. Jordan also met people who create glass carvings for a living and others who devised a method of fishing attached to a kite string. He stayed two nights at the famous Pipatón Hotel, which is home to a world famous ballroom and swimming pool and saw its share of famous guests in its heyday. Today the hotel is closed because few people travel the Magdalena anymore but one hundred years ago the place must have been luxurious. Jordan also traveled to Mompox, the supposed real life inspiration for Gabriel García Marquez’ One Hundred Years of Solitude. It is obvious to me that Jordan enjoyed the book because he quotes it throughout and cites how Mompox is the actual town down to La Avenida de los Turcos as well as the swarms of butterflies. A visit to Colombia would not be complete without mention of the country’s most esteemed author.

The highlight of this trip might have been his encounter with Biblioburro who through worldwide exposure has brought literacy to an entire region. Literally a traveling library in a remote region, a teacher with a dream brought books to his students via the backs of two burros Alpha and Beto. His project was picked up by the nightly news and his since grown to over seven thousand books housed in a regional library, which is more than many libraries that I have entered. All good things must come to an end, and Jordan ended his journey at the Caribbean Sea where the Magdalena meets the sea. He walked out on jetties, encountered kite fliers, and caught fish, an activity he does even when home in New York. All along the River the people he met appeared genuine. They were interested in American music and culture and lived life to the fullest according to their means. This included kids flying kites and a teaching carrying books on a burro, anything to improve the life in a country proud of its heritage. With the war with FARC all but behind them, it will be interesting to see how life along the Magdalena improves in the coming years.

Jordan Salama is carving out a career as an up and coming journalist. He has since published a more polished book about his family history, which I found fascinating. As he is still in his twenties, I would only expect his career and writing to improve over time. He has carved a niche for himself as a South American travel writer, but I am interested to see what project he undertakes next. Everyday the River Changes is an example of writing by a young, debut writer. The concept is compelling but the writing is basic, written by a twenty one year college student. Jordan Salama has brought to light life along the once bustling and beautiful Río Magdalena. While not a hot tourist spot today, it can hopefully be preserved to be enjoyed by future generations.

3.5 stars

[Louise · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is the story of this ever changing river. It shows how the ecological forces along with the economic and political situations of the time changed the riverside communities. While the importance of this book is in the reports of the people he meets, there is a rich description of the flora, fauna and climate.

Salama begins his journey near the river’s source and follows its northward flow to the Caribbean Sea. He travels by foot, bus, train, boat/canoe, automobile and a motobalinera (a cart pulled along a railroad track by a motorcycle).

While the chapters are named for the cities /towns he visits, the lasting impressions are of the people. He spends time with biologists (including volunteer turtle preservationists), boat captains and pilots, a canoe maker, jewelry maker, a female adventurer who traveled through Colombia alone by canoe and foot, and more.

He goes on a hippopotamus control mission with a small staff that attempts to manage a dangerous population over 100 that has spawned from the two that escaped from Pablo Escobar’s zoo. There is the fascinating interview in Barrancabermeja, an unusually wealthy (oil) town, with a US educated Vietnam Vet who dedicated the better part of his life to a hotel that will be closing now that the river is no longer navigable at this point. He hikes trails with a librarian and his two donkeys, Alpha and Beta, who deliver books and stories to children in remote locations.

The aura of violence, past and present, haunts. The FARC (right wing extremist who kill priests, schoolteachers – almost anyone they want to label “leftist”), the ELN (the revolutionaries), the private militia (theoretically protecting property) and the governments troops and police have peace at this time, but remain armed and dangerous. Almost everyone he has spoken with has seen bodies and body parts floating down the river. The people of one town, Puerto Berrio, brought them ashore for proper burials and its citizens have adopted them with honor. A year after his visit, Salama learned (via Facebook) of the murder of one of his colleague hosts, Luis Manual Salamanca.

Salama finds that residents of the river towns feel that the magic and the realism of Gabriel Garcia Marquez "reflect the true stories of their lives". . Salama notes the themes of Marquez when he finds them.

The trip ends with a beautifully written description of the unusual fishing colony on a jetty dividing the river from the sea before the two impressive bodies of water join in a fury.

How do the date(s?) of the trip reconcile with the 4 weeks subtitle? Most of the travel seems to be 2016, but there is a reference to 2018. The copyright page says “this book reflects the author’s recollections of experiences over time…. small portions of this book have appeared in different form..” If this is a consolidation of several years of travel, the subtitle is misleading. Whatever the dates are, most content appears to be 6 years old, meaning an epilogue is in order. The epilogue could cover the author’s observations the results of the frequently referenced 2016 peace agreement and progress (if any) on the river development plan. Despite this "gap", this is a very good book.

[Kirsten · Rating 4 out of 5]

I was drawn to this book by the second to last chapter about the Biblioburro, but I really enjoyed all the chapters preceding that one, too. A compelling read about a place I've never heard very much about, except the drug wars of the 1980s and 90s. And, of course, Gabriel Garcia Marquez's One Hundred Years of Solitude. Now I want to reread it with all of this rich Colombian history in mind. And I didn't realize this was THE bibioburro. The first traveling book burros--alfa and beta. Great travel writing.

[Brenda · Rating 4 out of 5]

What an intriguing book! I chose to read it as my desire was to learn more about Colombia's history and culture, knowing there is much more to it than its reputation for conflict and drugs. What a great decision! The young author traveled by several modes of transportation (whatever was available) from the Andes down Rio Magdalena and encountered many fascinating people and learned about myths, traditions, lagoons, angry winds, sediment, oppressive heat, topography, exotic food and animals, staying safe, river reliance and rhythms of river life, refugees, thievery, Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC), riverbed "highways", modern-day nomads, scary bridges, resilient people and remarkable hospitality. Colourful descriptions of wooden boats, intricate filigree crafts, river turtles, wild fruits and the river singing are very immersive and powerful. Not only did the author learn about the river's past but also the present. The book is divided into three parts, the Upper, Middle and Lower Magdalena.

The book is divided into three parts, the Upper, Middle and Lower Magdalena. Amongst my (many) favourite stories include filigree crafts, fishing with kites and the biblioburro (love this!) as well as learning about the determination and strength of those who live(d) in fear of guerillas and sometimes dangerous creatures. The author's descriptions of life are vivid as are his connections to his ancestors in whose footsteps he may have walked. Many residents call Colombia Paradise...my Colombian friend would agree!

Up for an adventure? Read this riveting book about the twists and turns of a mighty river and those it sustains. What a great pleasure it is to learn more about this region of the world!

My sincere thank you to Catapult and NetGalley for the privilege of reading this wonderful book.

[Barbara Saunders-adams · Rating 5 out of 5]

Reading Jordan Salama’s book, Every Day the River Changes, is like being taken by the hand to share his adventures down the magical Magdalena River in Colombia. With warmth and keen observation of the landscape and those living off the once bountiful river, Salama’s descriptive language and spot-on portraits of the people he meets will captivate you.

Coming from a unique Jewish background - Jordan’s mother was born in Bagdad, Iraq. Her family narrowly escaped the Jewish purge of the 1970’s. His father’s family, originally from Syria, was exiled to Argentina - Jordan was inspired by the Jewish art of storytelling and depictions of survival in often hostile environments. Through the Wildlife Conservation Society and Princeton University, Salama had the opportunity to traverse the Magdalena River for four memorable weeks.

Salama holds a mirror up to the people struggling to survive as their life source, the Magdalena River, is depleted by the environmentally destructive forces of “progress”. On his journey from the source of the river in the Andes mountains to its southern reaches in the Caribbean, Jordan talks with Colombians from all walks of life - children, fishermen, canoe carvers, boat captains, ecologists, managers of defunct hotels, old people “who could look at the river and see what it once was”, a ninety-five-year-old master jeweler and a teacher who delivers books to rural children on a donkey he calls the “Biblioburro”. These are stories of courage and survival. Hovering in the background is the specter of drug cartels and internecine fighting.

Salama manages to look at Columbia and the Magdalena River with the glass half full. It’s a testament to his generous spirit and keen insight.

Barbara Saunders-Adams
New Paltz, NY

[Jifu · Rating 3 out of 5]

(Note: I received an advanced reader copy of this title courtesy of NetGalley)

I usually enjoy any book that can take me on a trip where I can experience and learn about a new corner of the world, and Jordan Salama’s Every Day the River Changes happily proved to be no exception to that personal trend.

Prior to picking it up my knowledge of the Magdalena was more or less limited to “a river in Colombia.” I genuinely had no idea that it was in fact the main river, and held the majority of the country’s population within its surrounding river valley. That of course was the very tip of all that I was able to experience through this title. Salama covers quite a lot, and provides coverage on subjects including (but not at all limited to) the growing population of feral hippos originally descended from Pablo Escobar’s personal zoo animals, to the glory days of riverboat transport and traffic before the disruptions of war, the significant erosion challenges facing much of the river, and the man behind the famed Biblioburro library system. For some of the topics he covered and people he interviewed, I wish he devoted a bit more time and attention to in exchange for those I found a little less interesting. However, never did I find myself stopping and skipping ahead to the next chapter to see if the next stop along the river was able to hold my attention better. As aforementioned, my knowledge of the Magdalena and those living around it was almost nil, and so almost everything that I encountered in this book as I traveled via Salama’s words was something new. From start to end I consistently remained absorbed by this informative snapshot of a river and also a country.

For fellow travelogue fans - this is definitely a title to keep an eye out for.

[Zibby Owens · Rating 5 out of 5]

The Río Magdalena is a river in Columbia and is one thousand miles long. This tale of an adventure following a legendary river that not many knew about. The author looks into understanding the vastly diverse and beautiful country along the river. He goes back and travels the entire length of this river from source to sea and spends time with the people who live along its banks.

This book tells the story of a young person's journey down a river, not just physically but also figuratively, in the sense of an academic development from start to finish. He gives descriptive language and in-depth portraits of all the people he met along the way. I especially loved the story of the Biblioburro in Colombia, a schoolteacher named Luis Soriano who delivered books to kids on two donkeys, Alfa and Beto. A real-life story of a local hero who lifted a whole community with literacy and levels.

To listen to my interview with the author, go to my podcast at:
https://www.momsdonthavetimetoreadboo...

[Mainlinebooker · Rating 3 out of 5]

Jordan Salama has an interesting background. His educated parents and their parents had a complicated history of migration. His father was a Syrian Argentinian Jew and his mother a Syrian Jew. Jordan's wanderlust did not fall far from the apple tree. What started out as a college thesis soon became much more as he attempted a 4 week excursion to Columbia traveling the 950 mile Magdalena River by boat, truck, bus or a contraption called a motobalinera. What had me interested when I read the book description was his interaction with old people along the way, their professions and their history. However, I found the book lacking. There were interesting discussions along the way but I found the writing simplistic with a plodding style. I wished that he produced more illustrative pictures. An example is his talking about the megalithic statues of Indigenous people of the Columbian Massif. It wasn't until I did further web research did I discover a true appreciation of these icons. In fact, though my favorite part was the people, he needed to flesh out their personhood and give us an in depth peak at their life along the Magdelana. It certainly was ok, but not my favorite travelogue.

[Eden · Rating 3 out of 5]

2022. bk 31. Columbia remains pretty much a mystery to me. I've read bits and pieces through the years that described the beauty of the country or the maddening times of terror. This is a young man's journey over several trips along as much of the length of the Magdalena river as he can make. He has many interesting encounters along the way. As a native speaker of Spanish (parts of his family come from Argentina), he would use some personal contacts, but more frequently a friend of a friend of a friend to get to where he was going and to learn more about the area. He is aware of the terror of the past, but seemingly feels that it won't touch him directly. If it did, he doesn't tell us. Instead he tells the stories that have been left behind, the bodies in the Magdalena, one of his first friends being set up for assassination, and above all the river, the swift moving, polluted river. I finished this book feeling like I now know more about Columbia, but also very saddened that a land with so much promise has a people that struggle to survive and to protect the land they love.

[Hannah Cohen · Rating 5 out of 5]

Amazing writing and a great story!!

[Catherine · Rating 4 out of 5]

Beautifully written and so fascinating! Learned a ton.

[Bruce · Rating 4 out of 5]

An excellent first effort. Look for more from this young man. Paul Theroux's protege perhaps.

[Amy · Rating 4 out of 5]

Wonderfully written and just fascinating!!!

[Josephine Kwok · Rating 3 out of 5]

Absolutely insane that he did this, strong end

[Mac · Rating 3 out of 5]

Decent. Drags in parts - some places are just intrinsically not that interesting, to be mean about it - but the back half, for me at least, picked up nicely.

[Emily · Rating 5 out of 5]

a well told story of the people of Columbia, the challenges they face, and the history of the country that has shaped and been shaped by the Magdalena River.

[Ellen Ulken · Rating 4 out of 5]

The Magdalena River runs through the heart of Colombia for almost 1000 miles. Salama follows its path from its source in the Andes mountains to the place in the South where the muddy brown waters converge with the deep blues of the Caribbean Sea. In the book he writes of his journey–dangers and hardships–and tells stories of the land and its people, beginning with an era of prosperity in the river towns, to the depletion of the land and its riches and the reign of the Ward Lords who killed and threatened inhabitants. Now, relative peace is in place, but fish are fewer and people are hungry for food and the remembered bounties. Restorative efforts are underway to revitalize the river system. We read with interest and empathy as Salama reveals the ecological and sociological ramifications in vibrant prose.

[Melissa · Rating 5 out of 5]

Intriguing read. I loved the format of traveling with stories from locals met along the way. The stories were touching, some sad, some happy. I think this should be a read for everyone to understand how bad environment affects everyone and everything. My favorite stories from this book include the hippos, the band Oasis, and the traveling library. I still feel that cat and rattlesnakes pain too!

[Larry · Rating 4 out of 5]

The Magdalena River flows through the heart of Colombia. It was once the lifeblood of the nation, a source of trade and transportation as well as tourism and leisure activities. Now, Jordan Salama makes a four week journey from the river’s source in Quinchana to its mouth at Barranquilla on the Caribbean coast. However, not much time is actually spent traveling on the river which today is an oppressively hot, dangerous, filthy, unnavigable waterway. Rather Jordan employs various other means of transportation to make his way downriver. The region's recent past is horrifically violent, and we hear of the drug cartels, the paramilitary groups, the corrupt police and armies. Kidnappings were a way of life, as well as murders and massacres. Families were dragged out of their homes and executed in the streets. There were sections of the river where corpses used to regularly float by, alongside the boats, the logs and the garbage.
It’s really the villages, the people he meets and the stories they tell that make this such a fascinating book. Overall life on the river has become less dangerous, but other factors such as deforestation and climate change are having a serious impact on those who continue to call the Magdalen their home.

[RMazin · Rating 4 out of 5]

Jordan Salama takes a journey down the Magdalena River in Columbia. Wherever he goes he is observant, welcomed and welcoming. He is not judgmental and wants to learn about the people and their environment. What was the river like in its glory days? What is the effect of current conditions on the river, now impacted by environmental factors? What was it like living along the river with so many competing political factions, and drug cartels? Saldana meets people who may seem to fall within stereotypes of bucolic river dwellers, but there is always an edge of the unexpected to them: craftspeople with old world skills; river navigators who intimately know currents and fishing areas; business ex-pats; a librarian bringing books to the off-the -track areas by donkey; environmental “warriors” concerned about the river and its future. Although this journey is along one river, Salama’s message about the vital links of people to the land and river easily serve as a global message to all. Hope this author continues to travel and share his adventures. Recommended. Thanks to Netgalley and the publisher for providing this title.

[Crowleybob Crowley · Rating 4 out of 5]

I read this to learn more about Columbia as I am traveling there in a few weeks. And a beautifully written travelogue is, for me, the very best way to learn about a place. You don’t have to physically travel to Columbia; Jordan Salama will take you with him on his journey down the Magdalen.

[Megan · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book is a great read for anyone who loves travel writing and learning about the way people live in other parts of the world. Jordan (I believe in his early 20’s) visits Columbia to write a story about his journey through the Magdalena River. He runs into people from all backgrounds and hears stories about nearby surrounding towns. My favorite was the story about the drug king-pin Pablo Escobar putting a zoo in his backyard. After his death, the 4 hippos wandered off and begun reproducing. There are now about 100 hanging around the river. So interesting! I would love to see that.

Jordan writes- “Ahorita” had already easily became my least favorite expression in Colombian Spanish, as it could mean anything from “right now” to “a little while from now” to “a little while ago.” It was one of the many things that made public transportation nothing short of a comical affair in the country.”

Luis Eduardo says about his jewelry business- “I’ve been learning since I was little. You do the work for your heart, not for the money. My father does it, my uncles, my cousins.”

Jordan- “Traveling in this way, and trading in stories, is inevitably a journey of selection- it was not lost on me that for each voice I heard, many others would be left out. That each place I chose and every person I met would say indelibly influence where I’d go next.”

One thing I really wish he went more into is how home ownership works. He said some people slept in shacks along the railroad track and others had homes that were 2 hours from their neighbor. I really want to know how they pay mortgage or taxes. Are the homes owned free and clear? Because if people are barely getting by to find food, do they have any other expenses. How does the city collect money if they don’t have internet to pay the bills, stamps, checkbooks??? Do the elders have social security? How are they paying for their house? I guess that side of things would help me understand their world a little better.

[Ann · Rating 3 out of 5]

Like the author, I would have liked this to be a story of steamboats and bustling riverside towns, of exotic sights and sounds and smells, of a joyous melting pot of indigenous, Spanish and cosmopolitan influences. Yes, that's what happens to readers who count "Love in the time of cholera" among their favorite books!

The reality, anno 2019, is much less festive. Between decades of drug and guerilla wars, deforestation and pollution, the Magdalena has lost its value as an artery for travel and commerce. Fishing has gone down, and any attempts to revive the local economy and culture seem to be stymied by bureaucracy and corruption. Things have improved since the Pablo Escobar years, when corpses floated down the river on a daily basis, but still...

Books like this follow a pattern : a little description of nature, a little bit of history, a bit of local color, an encounter with a local, preferably an occasional moment of awareness of danger and mystery. All of these elements are represented here. Among the local color : a town that has lovingly buried the anonymous corpses collected from the river banks, almost to the point of developing some type of local cult to these bodies that stand in for their own disappeared loved ones. A master artisan making intricate filigree jewelry - a technique imported centuries ago from Spain and Arabia. A conservationist releasing young turtles back into the river. And of course, the travel "must", an encounter with one of the hippopotamuses that escaped from Pablo Escobar's hacienda and found new homes in one of the Magdalena's tributaries.

The author was still a college student when he made the trip that is the basis for this book, but this is classic travel writing, not an account of wild parties and impromptu decisions. I would almost say : a little on the tame side. But not everyone can be Bruce Chatwin.

[Steve Barrett · Rating 3 out of 5]

Salama takes on a unique locale forEvery Day the River Changes: the Magdalena river running through Colombia. It's an area I knew nothing about, and it was interesting to learn about the history and geography of the region.

The most colorful part were the accounts of the river's heydays in the 1940s and 1950s, when the cities were wealthy, and river cruises carried passengers on holiday. Sadly these same cities are much less interesting today, resulting in some sections of the book that simply aren't that great to read.

The first section of the book focused on the Upper Magdalena - the part of the river high in the mountains. The local people tell stories of the ferocious weather, especially leading up to the lake that is the river's source. I was disappointed that Salama did not brave the trip up to that lake, as I felt he missed a great opportunity to add adventure and intrigue into his journey. I'm reminded of Thubron's The Amur River, which in fact was what inspired me to pick up this title. On that journey Thubron trekked for days on horseback to find the source of the river in remote Mongolian swamps.

I was also a little surprised to hear no mention of food, given how much time the author spent in cities and towns. Food is such an important part of any culture and I can't help but feeling that Salama missed a beat here. He even mentioned scoffing at a fermented milk beverage at one point - a sort of reverse Bourdain moment.

With the above in mind, I have to give Salama credit for picking a relatively less-written-about area and trying to get to know it deeply and build a meaningful narrative about the experience. Three stars.

[Jane · Rating 4 out of 5]

I agree with one reviewer who predicts that Jordan Salama will be heard from again. Salama is a recent Princeton graduate of Argentine, Syrian and Iraqi Jewish descent, whose interest in Columbia was initiated by his childhood piano teacher. He decides to travel the length of the Magdalena River for his senior thesis. He follows the river from its source high in the Andes to its mouth on the Caribbean coast and along the way he meets and writes about the people he meets, including the family of that piano teacher. Salama was a student of John McPhee at Princeton where he obviously learned at the feet of a master non-fiction writer. He notices everything and weaves into his writing the recent history of Columbia and the status of the environment. He has carefully prepared for this trip by finding people who will help introduce him to each stop along the river, but they are willing to talk to him about their lives and their deepest concerns because of his genuine interest and sincere desire to learn as much as possible about the river and the country. Salchi, one of the people he meets along the way tells him: "This river...there's something special about it. It teaches you tings, every day it teaches you. Every day the river changes. You can never say you know the Magdalena."

[Elisabeth (Bouquins & Books)]

Salama travelled along the Magdalena river in Colombia from its source to its delta. One summer, while he was still a student at Princeton, he took four weeks to explore Colombia along its most important river and gather the stories of people living near it. The result is an interesting portrait of modern day Colombia. Salama does not dwell on the past, but at every stop he tried to interview the oldest person in town, to learn how the river changed over time. We see that human intervention (deforestation of the river banks, building of dams, pollution...) made the river that was once the backbone of transportation in Colombia an unnavigable waterway; we see that fish that was once plenty is now scarce; we see that the river that brought food and was a source of life became a graveyard for anonymous casualties of the civil war. But we also see hope, because of the new peace treaty between FARC and government, because of conservation efforts, because of the people who live along the Magdalena.

The one fault of the book is that it is quite short, at about 200 pages. How can one tell the story of a river that is 1500 km long in so short a book? I guess I am saying that I would have taken more of it.

[Chad · Rating 3 out of 5]

This wasn't quite what I had hoped in terms of the stories of the people along the river. I got the sense that this was a relatively quick trip to all of the spots on the river, so there aren't relationships developed with the individuals. Rather, they are interactions and a sharing of snippets of those individuals' life stories. It's good--but not at the level of connection you get from some travel writing.
I was also interested in my reaction to the focus of this book on change. It charts the evolution of the Magdalena across Colombian history, and the impact it has on people. I was struck by how in this moment we are so aware of the change in our world. In other times of my life, I'd say that years could fly by and it wouldn't be until I was forced to pause and reflect that I could see the changes that had happened. But in this pandemic world, change is such a part of our every day lives. Our routines, normalcy, and planning cadences have all been upended. We not only look at recent events and the way in which they changed, but it is also how we think about our futures--the ways in which we will change and adapt to the current world.

[Lori Rooney · Rating 5 out of 5]

Traveling Colombia, whether in person or through the eyes of Jordan Salama, the author of Everyday the River Changes, is an adventure. If you’re familiar with the magical realism of Gabriel Garcia Marquez then the specialness of his Colombian homeland described in Salama’s travelogue is not surprising. Reading the book I felt myself transported along his journey down the Magdalena River. Forty years ago while in my twenties, I also traveled in this country of incredible beauty and warm-hearted people. At this point in my life those type of travel experiences are not likely to happen again. Fortunately, I now have this book to serve as a reminder of that time.
I highly recommend reading Everyday the River Changes to anyone planning their own travels off the beaten path and to those wanting a connection to their own reminiscences of being an intrepid young adventurer. All readers can serve as witnesses to how the changes in Colombia and on the Magdalena reflect the changes and uncertainty currently happening to our planet.

[Kristin]

I read the author's newer book first, and heard of this one from that-- Stranger in the Desert: a family story. As such, this one struck me as a very rough draft of that one. I read Stranger in the Desert in full and really liked it even though I was lulled heavily to sleep the whole time, but couldn't stick with this one. It's pretty, as an account of a free young man idyllically traveling around South America without any responsibilities waiting for him on any horizon-- but there's no central thesis, driving purpose, or motivation for it, and such privilege is honestly hard for a working American adult to read, from envy. Rather than even slice of life, it's slice of place. You can drop down into the text and read a sentence here and there and be in a place, like the text version of a coffee table book of just photos. But I like that Stranger in the Desert ties all of it together into something bigger with a purpose, so that we as the reader can deal with the fact that someone is able to just bum around a beautiful continent all day drinking mate' and having lovely adventures.

[Louise · Rating 3 out of 5]

Before reading this book I naively assumed the young author had made his journey down this major Colombian river (the one featured in Gabriel Garcia Marquez' "Love in the Time of Cholera") by boat, and that it would include observations on the indigenous peoples and unspoiled nature. But the reality is most of the river is no longer navigable, silted in by decades of deforestation and full of trash, and also a dumping ground for bodies left by guerillas and militias during the decades of violence. But the author makes the arduous journey along the river from the headwaters to the Caribbean by various other sometimes makeshift conveyances, visiting villages and towns of various sizes and roughness. Along the way he describes the rugged terrain, meets many kind people, sees how they eke out a living, and learns the stories and history of the area.