Путевой дневник. Путешествие Мишеля де Монтеня в Германию и Италию

by Michel de Montaigne, Мишель де Монтень

"Путевой дневник" Монтеня до настоящего времени был практически неизвестен в России. Рукопись, случайно найденную через 178 лет после смерти ее автора, впервые опубликовали во Франции в 1774 году. Настала пора предъявить "Дневник" и русскому читателю.
"Опыты" Монтеня читают и любят во всем мире, однако мало кому известно, что после своего путешествия по Германии, Швейцарии и Франции Монтень внес в два уже вышедших тома "Опытов" более шестисот добавлений и написал третий том, значительную часть которого составляют наблюдения, взятые им из своих путевых заметок. Внимательный читатель непременно обратит внимание на эту перекличку между "Дневником" и "Опытами", - книги взаимно дополняют друг друга, углубляя и расширяя понимание тех или иных фрагментов.
На русском языке произведение публикуется впервые.
Перевод с французского Леонида Ефимова

Genres: Travel, Nonfiction, History, Classics, France, Philosophy, French Literature

464 pages, Hardcover

First published January 1, 1581

About the author

Michel Eyquem de Montaigne (1532-1592) was one of the most influential writers of the French Renaissance. Montaigne is known for popularizing the essay as a literary genre. He became famous for his effortless ability to merge serious intellectual speculation with casual anecdotes and autobiography—and his massive volume Essais (translated literally as "Attempts") contains, to this day, some of the most widely influential essays ever written. Montaigne had a direct influence on writers the world over, from William Shakespeare to René Descartes, from Ralph Waldo Emerson to Stephan Zweig, from Friedrich Nietzsche to Jean-Jacques Rousseau. He was a conservative and earnest Catholic but, as a result of his anti-dogmatic cast of mind, he is considered the father, alongside his contemporary and intimate friend Étienne de La Boétie, of the "anti-conformist" tradition in French literature.

In his own time, Montaigne was admired more as a statesman then as an author. The tendency in his essays to digress into anecdotes and personal ruminations was seen as detrimental to proper style rather than as an innovation, and his declaration that, "I am myself the matter of my book", was viewed by his contemporaries as self-indulgent. In time, however, Montaigne would be recognized as embodying, perhaps better than any other author of his time, the spirit of freely entertaining doubt which began to emerge at that time. He is most famously known for his skeptical remark, "Que sais-je?" ("What do I know?").

Remarkably modern even to readers today, Montaigne's attempt to examine the world through the lens of the only thing he can depend on implicitly—his own judgment—makes him more accessible to modern readers than any other author of the Renaissance. Much of modern literary nonfiction has found inspiration in Montaigne, and writers of all kinds continue to read him for his masterful balance of intellectual knowledge and personal storytelling.

Reviews

[Valeriu Gherghel · Rating 4 out of 5]

„Le cul sur la selle”, cu fundul în șa, eseistul pornește la drum în 22 iunie 1580. Nu e singur, îl însoțește un grup numeros (prieteni, slujitori, un secretar etc.). O călătorie era, în vremea lui Montaigne, destul de periculoasă. Păduri nesfîrșite, drumuri înfundate, tîlhari. Nu era simplu. Grupul face cam 10 leghe pe zi. O călătorie la Roma dura jumătate de an (cînd era vremea bună).

Montaigne se oprește la băile termale din Elveția, Germania și Italia și bea multă apă cu gust de fier și miros sulfuros. Uneori, cîte 7 pahare unul după altul sau mai mult. Avea pietre la rinichi și spera să mai scape de dureri.

Pare interesat de tot: pipăie moaște, asistă la execuții, vizitează mănăstiri. Intră în vorbă cu cărturarii, mai ales dacă sînt teologi. Seara, la han, îi dictează secretarului (ca să nu uite, zice el) cîteva pagini (sau cîteva rînduri) de impresii „la cald”. Nu e mulțumit de scriptor și, după o vreme, îl concediază. Va nota singur în franceză și italiană.

Ajunge la Roma în preajma Crăciunului. La graniță, cărțile îi fuseseră confiscate „pentru verificare”. Printre ele, se afla și volumul de Eseuri tocmai tipărit la începutul lui 1580. Obține o audiență la papă, discută cu cardinalii, vizitează Biblioteca Vaticană, e invitat la ospețe, învață să folosească furculița. În Franța, acest instrument banal încă nu intrase în uz. Se plimbă prin oraș cu o hartă și o descriere a Romei antice: vrea să identifice vechile clădiri. Pe Capitoliu, găsește doar pietre și urme de ziduri. Nu se-apucă de săpat.

Este chemat de un „cenzor” care nu știa franceza și pusese pe altul să-i citească din carte. Binevoitor, cenzorul îi apreciază eseurile, îl laudă. Montaigne, modest, îi făgăduiește că va opera modificările cerute. Cenzorul insistă că nu a găsit erori de doctrină, că totul e OK. Montaigne o ține pe-a lui: va schimba termenul „întîmplare” (Fortuna) cu termenul mult mai potrivit de Providență și nu va mai cita din „eretici”. Capătă volumul înapoi.

Cum-necum, își face relații și primește titlul de „cetățean al Romei”. Comentează ironic: „M-am străduit totuși și am folosit toate cele cinci simțuri cu care m-a dăruit natura pentru a obține titlul de cetățean roman. N-a fost ușor, am reușit însă să înving dificultățile... Este un titlu van, dar eu m-am bucurat foarte că l-am obținut” (p.127). Pînă în aprilie 1581, rămîne la Roma, apoi pornește spre casă.

Va ajunge la Montaigne pe 1 decembrie 1581. Călătoria a durat un an și jumătate...

[Valeriu Gherghel · Rating 3 out of 5]

Redactat cînd în franceză, cînd în italiană (Montaigne exersa limba), însemnările filosofului constituie un document prețios pentru moravurile și cutumele sfîrșitului de secol XVI. Călătoria la Roma va dura un an și jumătate (iunie 1580 - decembrie 1581). În Frica în Occident, Jean Delumeau citează adesea din jurnal pentru a ilustra nesiguranța epocii și spaimele omului obișnuit. Orașele erau fortificate, înconjurate de șanțuri adînci, păzite de zeci de ostași. Întrarea în cetate era permisă pînă la căderea serii, cînd podul peste șanț se ridica. Călătorul care întîrzia era obligat, așadar, să doarmă sub cerul liber. Dacă nu avea merinde, ajuna. La 1350, într-o povestire din Decameronul, Boccaccio semnala un fapt asemănător.

Drumurile erau grele, călătorii se puteau întîlni oricînd cu o ceată de tîlhari. Un astfel de drum nu se făcea niciodată de unul singur. A porni de unul singur într-un voiaj era de neînchipuit. M-a amuzat teribil ideea lui Matteo Strukul de a-l pune pe „ereticul” Michelangelo să călătorească singur printr-o pădure, în toiul iernii, fără să fie însoțit și înarmat. Asta era posibil doar într-un roman fantasy.

Din notele lui Montaigne, am înțeles că pînă și omul cel mai înțelept poate suferi de vanitate. Ajuns la Roma, e primit de Papă (cu care nu schimbă nici o vorbă, îi sărută doar papucii), discută cu savanții chestiuni de teologie și își face relații printre notabilități. În timpul liber, trage niște sfori și primește titlul de „Civis romanus”. Știe prea bine că distincția nu înseamnă absolut nimic, dar asta nu-l împiedică să se bucure...

[David · Rating 3 out of 5]

It is a strange thing to embark reading a travel diary that is 444 years old. It’s even stranger to embark on a journey to the same place that Montaigne spent 17 months and 7 days travelling. My trip took only twenty days. It’s even stranger that this same man, Michel de Montaigne arrived on Saint Andrew’s Day (November 30) not only in Rome but also on his return to his home in Bordeaux. It’s made much stranger because that is my patron saint.

Enough of these strange comparisons. After publishing two volumes of Les Essais, he left his chateau on 22 June 1580 to see Italy, and more notably Rome. Why? Three reasons: to observe other foods, customs and places unfamiliar to him. Good enough reason to travel, isn’t it?

He left on horseback with a companion M. d’Estissac and a personal secretary. Montaigne dictated while the secretary took notes. Montaigne did go back and correct words and sections. It’s almost safe to say it came from Montaigne. He rarely says much about either men. How odd?

Back in the 16th century travel was a much slower process but still had its issues. Stopping in Mulhaus Germany he was not permitted to visit a Calvanist church because he was Catholic. In those days, the Catholics and Protestants were not always willing to get along. However he liked their sauerkraut and mustards. He does get to debate with other clergymen along the way. Always good to get other views!

He was intrigued by the wonders of German water engineering but his eyes opened wide in Italy. Siena has the most beautiful plaza and Florence wins hands down as the most beautiful place (he states this twice). Even the women were most beautiful in Florence.

Rome? It has all the history and he was a historical buff. He liked it so much that he spent eight months living there. He did receive an honorary Roman citizenship (3 May 1581 )as well met the pope. Not bad for being a “tourist.” While I was at the Vatican, the pope has the flu so no chance to meet him (ha ha). I did marvel in the Sistine Chapel finding a seat on a side bench. That ceiling is divine. The crowds, not so much. The Italian guards? Plain rude.

By seeing so much Renaissance art and buildings it allowed me to place myself in Montaigne’s shoes. Many of these “new” buildings he visited were literally new, give or take 50 years (like Saint Peter’s). He visited the Pitti Palace in Florence. He was on the side of the Medici family (there was a Medici as queen) but the Strozzi’s appeared arrogant. He liked Machiavelli’s work but not The Decameron by Bocaccio (too racy for him).

He was a devout Catholic and made offerings at a shrine in Lorette on behalf of his wife Francisca, only daughter Leonora and himself. Meeting the pope was a personal highlight.

There was another factor that seems to be behind his trip. Outside of Lucca (west of Florence) there is a hot spring. The latter part of the book has our man Montaigne trying every means to help with his kidney stones. From early on he has major coughing episodes that lasted hours and endless issues with the stones and peeing. He tries everything from consuming a variety of waters to hours in the baths. The travel guide becomes a medical diary.

Then on 7 September 1681 in Lucca he gets a letter in the mail. He was elected mayor of Bordeaux. The letter dated 1 August 1581. He packs his bags and heads, south to Rome. Isn’t that the wrong direction? He sends an acceptance letter to Bordeaux, sees the baths of Diocletian (loved this place), dines with the French ambassador and finally leaves Rome on 15 October, arriving on 30 November.

Thoughts? I am writing this on a high speed train from Naples to Rome. I can’t imagine what Montaigne would have thought of travel like this? He hated travelling in a coach and preferred riding a horse. One must not forget only a man with money could spend all this time away (he does comment about costs). He enjoyed simple fare at his road side stops as much as those formal meals he had with illustrious men in palaces. Gosh, I complained about being gouged at the Uffizi.

In short, MM was a good companion for my trip.

3.5 rating

[Redsteve · Rating 4 out of 5]

Very interesting, but maybe he could talk about his hemmorroids, just a bit less...

[Selim Karlıtekin · Rating 3 out of 5]

Öncelikle 'yol günlüğü'nden çok Montaigne'in idrarıydı, dışkısıydı, düşürdüğü taştı, döktüğü kumdu, kamışındaki batma hissiydi, ve bilimum çok özel detaylara doyduğumuz bir günlük. Ananemlerle Yalova'da kaplıcalara gittiğimiz aklıma geldi, ama o 2 gündü, Montaigne 17 ay boyunca o kaplıca senin bu şifalı su benim geziyor. Kitabın ilk kısmı (Roma'ya kadar) Montaigne'in değil tuttuğu yazmanın elinden çıkma. Genel okuma için kötü bir kitap, Montaigne'i böyle tanımanızı istemeyiz, gidin Denemeler'i okuyun, Denemeler uzun derseniz YKY'den Antoine Compagnon'un Montaigne'le bir Yazından devam edin, bu kitabaysa Ortaçağ sonunda gündelik yaşam nasıldı, nasıl geziliyordu, Rönesans'ın ilk evrelerinde toplumsal dönüşüm emareleri nelerdi, enginar nasıl yeniliyordu İtalya'da, Almanya'dakinden ne kadar farklıydı merak edenler baksın. Çeviri ve dipnotlar çok iyi, Ömer bey gerçekten bir akademisyen olarak farkını konuşturmuş.

[Hessel Beijaard · Rating 4 out of 5]

Half uut. Valt toch meer te beleven tegenwoordig. Niettemin onderhoudend geschreven en voor liefhebbers van Europa die tijd aardig om te lezen.

[Christopher · Rating 4 out of 5]

A detailed account of Montaiigne’s tour through Switzerland, Germany, and Italy over a year and a half in 1580 and 1581. Not as polished as his essays, but with many insights into the customs and manners of the places he visited. Some of his observations influenced his later essays and provide the reader with a first-hand look at life in late Northern Renaissance Europe.

[Antonia Faccini · Rating 5 out of 5]

“Yo no he tenido mayores enemigos de mi salud que el aburrimiento y la ociosidad; allí tenía siempre alguna ocupación, si no tan placentera como hubiese podido desear, al menos suficiente para distraerme: como visitar las antiguedades, las viñas, que son jardines y lugares de recreo, de belleza singular, donde aprendí cómo el arte podía servirse perfectamente de un lugar abrupto, montañoso y desigual”.

[Simona Moschini · Rating 4 out of 5]

Premesso che l'edizione che ho letto collaziona varie edizioni originali appesantendo il testo di note sulle discordanze e sulle ipotesi testuali dubbie, è una ben strana lettura questa: come se ci fossero quattro libri, tutti qui dentro.

Intanto: scopriamo subito che il viaggio è sì in Italia, ma preceduta da parte della Germania.

Poi, i libri nel libro.
Il primo viene redatto in francese (sotto dettatura, probabilmente) da uno scrivano pagato per accompagnare monsieur de Montaigne, il cui padre riteneva che un signore non debba mai scrivere in proprio ma lasciare tale servile mansione a qualcuno pagato per farlo. Lo scrivano scrive, ma si fa una gran fatica a capire chi è "io" e chi è "lui", e ci si annoia con interminabili liste di nuove città, miglia percorse e altri dati spesso alla rinfusa.
Nella seconda parte, essendosi stufato dello scrivano o viceversa, con suo lieve fastidio Montaigne si costringe a continuare in prima persona e in lingua francese, e finalmente vediamo venir fuori il suo stile, la sua personalità, il suo humour. Peccato che si sveli in tal modo che molta noia e pedanteria che avevamo attribuito al suo dipendente, sono invece sua responsabilità.
Nella terza parte (orrore!) essendo ormai da molti mesi in Italia, pur essendo stato quasi sempre in compagnia di connazionali e non avendo preso lezioni di italiano (che d'altronde era una pluralità di lingue, come lui stesso osserva a un certo punto) ma ritenendosi abbastanza sveglio e "portato per le lingue" Montaigne si convince di poter continuare la redazione del diario di viaggio in italiano, per cui il testo si fa maccheronico, qua e là simile all'italiano trecentesco, colmo di francesismi lessicali e sintattici, di lemmi inventati in quanto orecchiati, di scemenze insomma, ma pazienza.
Per poi tornare, una volta varcato il confine linguistico della Savoia sulla strada di ritorno, all'idioma materno (e sentiamo il sollievo, ma anche il divertimento di chi ci ha provato ben sapendo di non essere completamente all'altezza).

Il contenuto, più che un diario di viaggio come lo avrebbero inteso i viaggiatori dall'Ottocento in poi, è un pot-pourri di osservazioni casuali e intenzionali su bontà o meno delle locande, dei letti, del cibo, disonestà presunte o reali degli osti, dimensioni delle città, bellezza delle donne (le italiane non gli paiono quasi mai granché di aspetto, e invano cercheremo notizie su un suo incontro con la cortigiana Veronica Franco, che a Venezia gli manda un suo libro di poesie sperando forse in un incontro).
Ci lascia quasi sempre disorientati, affaticati quasi.

Ma il grande, il pressante, il supremo argomento del volume, quello che a buon diritto potrebbe collocarlo tra le guide turistiche (in questo caso alla sezione "Terme e vacanze termali") è la visita e conseguente approfondita recensione del maggior numero possibile di fonti termali di Germania e d'Italia.
Saremmo ingiusti verso Montaigne nel giudicarlo un ipocondriaco: se parla con tanti medici (quasi sempre inutili, e viene in mente Proust), se si ferma, a volte tornandoci anche, in tutte le località termali del suo viaggio, anzi programma il viaggio in modo da passarne quante più possibili, non è certo perché malato immaginario.
Va inoltre a suo merito la capacità di osservazione oggettiva, empirica, quasi distaccata, con cui parla del suo corpo, valuta cure ed effetti, diagnosi e loro realismo, senza indulgere se non di rado a considerazioni religiose o magiche (stiamo pur sempre parlando di un uomo nato nel 1533) sulle patologie di cui soffre.
Sarebbe stato un ottimo medico, in altri tempi.

Siamo anzi solidali con lui, specie chi abbia sofferto anche solo una volta nella vita di calcoli, coliche renali, o anche solo cistiti, immaginandolo a cavallo, meno spesso in portantina, vagabondare da una spa all'altra, bevendo tot bicchieri al giorno, osservando quanto sudore, quanta acqua espelle, riscontrando i cambiamenti di colore delle urine, il sangue, l'espulsione di calcoli, i dolori - non senza qualche altro acciacco che si sovrappone, come un terribile mal di denti che non viene neppure identificato come tale - , solidarizziamo con quest'uomo vissuto prima del bombardamento laser dei calcoli, prima degli antibiotici, dei trapianti renali, di qualsivoglia cura efficace per i suoi mali. E immaginiamo quanti, come lui, sopportavano e pazientavano, magari illudendosi che a Baden o a Bagni di +Lucca avrebbero trovato sollievo e, finalmente, un miracolo.
Montaigne muore a 59 anni. Spero non abbia sofferto troppo.

[Markus · Rating 4 out of 5]

Cette edition est une traduction en français moderne, et tres facile a lire. Lecture comme un journal quotidien avec tous les details, meme très personnelles, des decouvertes amusantes des habitudes de vie au 15. ciecle, dans les differents pays visités, Allemagne, Suisse, Italie. A relire.

[Magnus Gridset]

Interessant nok, men kjedelig skrevet, naturligvis

[Marie Sophie · Rating 2 out of 5]

Alors, je m'excuse pour cette note mais c'est un dnf. J'ai adoré l'objet livre, et la portée historique de ces écrits est impressionnante. C'est fabuleux de pouvoir se plonger avec autant de détails dans la vie quotidienne de 1580. Par contre l'œuvre n'a pas vraiment de qualité littéraire, et c'est ce que je recherchais.

[J.C. · Rating 5 out of 5]

If you read Italian as well as French, this could be the right edition for you, as it has copious footnotes in Italian, and also includes part of the text in Italian, the part that was originally written in that language. In 1580 Montaigne began an epic journey through Switzerland, Germany and Austria to Italy, and back to his home in south-west France. It took him over a year – 17 months and 8 days, he says, although if we’re going to be picky the “8 jours” is likely to mean a week, in French parlance. I didn’t count the days, but he left on 22nd June 1580 and arrived back home on 30th November 1581.
At first I was disappointed to find that the account had been dictated to a secretary. The reading felt flat, after a couple of years spent in a GR group reading Montaigne’s own lively style in his Essais. There was enough to keep me interested, though, with the descriptions and the narrative of the Germanic areas through which they passed, until I was delighted to find that, in Italy, Montaigne picked up the writing of it himself, and immediately the style became personal, inquisitive, shrewd, evaluative and engaging, just like in the Essais. A further surprise awaited me when I got to the section he had written himself in Italian! He had said in the Essais that he wanted to learn Italian, and I’m amazed at how quickly he must have picked it up. Typically self-deprecating, he tells this entertaining tale in the Essais. (II, 12):

“Je conseillerois en Italie à quelqu’un qui estoit en peine de parler italien, que pourveu qu’il ne cherchast qu’ à se faire entendre, sans y vouloir aultrement exceller, qu’il employast seulement les premiers mots qui lui viendroient à la bouche, latins, françois, espaignols ou gascons, et qu’en y adjoustant la terminaison italienne, il ne fauldrait jamais à rencontrer quelque idiome du pays, ou toscan, ou romain, ou venitien, ou piemontois, ou napolitain, et de se joindre à quelqu’une de tant de formes.
I’ll use John Florio’s translation, which was the one I used while reading Montaigne:
“I perswade somebody in Italy, who laboured very much to speake Italian, that alwayes provided, he desired but to be understood, and not to seek to excell others therein, he should only imploy and use such words as came first to his mouth, whether they were Latine, French, Spanish, or Gascoine, and that adding the Italian terminations unto them, he should never misse to fall upon some idiome of the Countrie, either Tuscan, Roman, Venetian, Piemontoise, or Neapolitan; and amongst so many several forms of speech to take hold of one.”

Back to the story. Montaigne was impressed with the cleanliness and order of the Swiss cantons, the German states, and he loved the Austrian Tyrol -the descriptions took me back to my childhood, reading the Chalet School books! He tried the baths wherever he found them, particularly near the end of his journey, as he suffered dreadfully from stones in the kidneys and the urethra, throughout the journey. He loved the ordered fountains and ‘canal’ systems of Germany, the landscape of The Tyrol, and while in Italy very much appreciated the artistic landscaping of a more rugged country by such figures as the Cardinal of Florence. He also appreciated that such gardens were accessible to the public.
It has been remarked that he didn’t comment on, and perhaps was less interested in, the paintings and sculptures of Italy, particularly in Rome, and especially the work of Michelangelo, who had died only seventeen years previously, in February 1564. Whether he knew these works or not remains a question, but he certainly felt that in the case of the Cardinal’s gardens and fountains, which he did very much admire, he decided not to write about them because books on them were already available:

« J’y considerai toutes choses fort particulieremant; j’essaïerois de le peindre ici, mais il y a des livres & peintures publiques de ce sujet. ».

The highlight of the book is, of course, the time he spent in Rome, where, in contrast to his respectful observation of Protestantism in the Germanic lands, he felt free to enjoy the pomp and glory of the Papal Mass. He was in Rome for Christmas and Easter, and he found much to comment on in the various Masses, and many pertinent observations to make on the people attending. He admits to finding it difficult to understand the flagellants, and was at first impressed by their Christian altruism, expressed by one flagellant,
“Basta, disse che fo questo per li lui peccati, non per li miei.”
(Enough, he said, I do this for his sins, not for mine),
but realised that many of the flagellants hired themselves out for this purpose.

There was much that was strange to him but his attitude was always one of enthusiasm and delight in learning about different customs. He was impatient with French travellers moaning about not having everything (food and accommodation) just like it was at home!

« Je disois des commodités de Rome, entr’autres, que c’est la plus commune ville du monde, & ou l’etrangeté & difference de nation se considere le moins ; car de sa nature c’est un ville rappiecée d’ etrangiers ; chacun y est come chés soi. »
(I would say of the admirable features of Rome, among many, that it is the most universal city in the world where foreignness and difference of nationality are considered less than anywhere, as by its nature it a city patched together with foreigners; everyone is at home there).
Actually I would love to have been a fly on the wall when the Russian Ambassador was looking on disparagingly at the Papal processions and counting how many horses there were as opposed to the “thousands” they would have had in Russia!

There is so, so much more I want to say about this important record of 16th century Europe, including that on the way home he popped in (as you do) on Mme de Lafayette, author of ‘the first psychological novel’, La Princesse de Clèves . I can’t omit a couple more things, though.

In Rome his Essais were taken from him under Church censorship. However, on leaving Rome he was told by the ‘Master of the Holy Palace’ and his ‘companion’ to take no notice of the censure of his book due to some Frenchmen considering that there were ‘sotises’ in it (foolish statements), as these two high-ups in Rome respected his intention towards, and affection for, the Church, and thought so highly of his frankness and good conscience that they left him to make any changes that he thought appropriate for the next printing, especially with regard to his references to “Fortune”. We who studied the essays in the Montaigne group on GR certainly had our work cut out to distinguish between ‘fortune’ as fate, chance or the role of the divinity.

The other thing I can’t miss out were his efforts, over some time, to obtain the citizenship of Rome, “ne fut-ce que pour l’antien honur, & religieuse memoire de son autorité. . . C’est un titre vein ; tant-y-a que j’ai receu beaucoup de plaisir de l’avoir obtenu. » (transcribed in Essais III, 9, where Montaigne does not write that this ‘bulle’ was sought after at length by himself).
A translation would be “if it was only for (Rome’s) ancient honour, and in keeping with her religious authority . . . it’s a vain title; however it gave me a great deal of pleasure to have been given it).

One last mention - south of Rome he comes upon a place called ‘Narni’ – ‘Narnia’ in Latin! And in Terni, a nearby village, is a statue of a lion! This, like Rome, is a beautiful place. I love Montaigne's disarming note here:

« de melancholie, qui est ma mort, & de chagrin, je n’en avais nul’occasion, ny dedans ny hors la masion. C’est ensein une plesante demure, & puis argumanter par-là, si j’eusse gouté Rome plus privémant, Combien elle m’eût agréé ; car, en vérité, quoique j’y aïe emploïé d’art ety de souin, je ne l’ai connue que par son visage publique, & qu’elle offre au plus chetif etrangier.»
(I had no opportunity, either out of doors or within, for melancholy, which is death to me, or of distress. It is thus a very pleasant place, and one must remember how much more Rome would have agreed with me if I had been able to get a real flavour of the city; for, truth be told, although I made every effort, I only knew Rome by her public face, and what she offers to the most paltry stranger.)

Thanks to Duolingo, I was able to attempt the occasional bit of Italian, but am aware of how much I must have missed by not been able to read the lengthy footnotes. Recommended for a group read or for someone fluent in French and Italian.

David’s review, written while he was travelling in Italy (!) is here:
https://www.goodreads.com/review/show...

[Renata · Rating 5 out of 5]

Diario di viaggio stupendo.

La mia valutazione, tuttavia, è molto condizionata dalla ammirazione cresciuta in me, via via leggendo, per Michel de Montaigne, che intraprese un lungo viaggio a cavallo verso l'Italia, nonostante fosse in quel periodo di salute cagionevole.

La lettura, a un certo punto del diario, si fa difficoltosa e, a parer mio, meno piacevole, perché il Montaigne ebbe l'ardire di cominciare a scrivere in italiano, lingua che ancora non padroneggiava alla perfezione.

La malattia di cui soffriva era il cosiddetto "mal della pietra" (calcolosi renale) che lo costringeva spesso a letto per via di numerose e dolorose coliche renali. La cura per porvi rimedio è, secondo Montaigne, bere tantissima acqua termale e prendere dei bagni presso le terme.
Tuttavia, i rimedi medici cui faceva affidamento, si basavano su metodi empirici, e non sembravano dargli giovamento, soprattutto presso i bagni di Lucca.

Il suo viaggio è quindi scandito da svariati malanni, che vanno appunto dalle coliche, al mal di testa e alle indisposizioni di stomaco.

La tempra esemplare di quest'uomo sta nell'accettare remissivamente e docilmente (ma mai passivamente) la malattia, e nel continuare a vivere e a viaggiare.

La sua voglia di vivere ed esplorare ci regala ammirevoli pagine su Roma, Firenze, Pavia, Lucca, Siena e Loreto, delle quali ci regala sue considerazioni e dettagliate descrizioni di antichità, santuari, chiese, palazzi rinascimentali, usi e costumi degli abitanti e curiosi aneddoti sul modo di vivere e di pensare di cortigiane e prostitute.

[Anie · Rating 4 out of 5]

This was definitely a fun, fun read. It's written partially by Montaigne, and partially by a servant who was recording day-to-day goings on; the parts by Montaigne are infinitely more interesting and well-written (which is perhaps not surprising, given that Montaigne was certainly a trained writer at that point). Both parts, however, are incredibly good to read, just for their detailing of the little day-to-day elements and observations on travel; the journal follows Montaigne and his retinue from France through Austria and Germany down to Rome, and then from Rome back to France. It's always fun to see the parts of travel that don't change, and also to see those parts that do when you're comparing 16th and 21st century travel.

Warning, though: Don't read this if you don't want to be bitten by the road trip bug.

[Thomas · Rating 5 out of 5]

Von den etwas zu ausführlich geschilderten Nierensteinbeschwerden abgesehen, die einem freilich den sehr subjektiven und ehrlichen Charakter dieser Aufzeichnungen noch mehr verdeutlichen, ist es ein abwechslungsreiches und amüsantes Vergnügen, quasi hinter dem Herrn de Montaigne auf seines Pferdes Rücken durch Ostfrankreich, die Schweiz, Süddeutschland und Italien zu reiten, vor allem aber durch das späte 16. Jahrhundert. Der genaue und skeptische, aber immer offene und tolerante Blick Montaignes ist eine Offenbarung auch für den heutigen Leser, eine echte Schule und ein Maßstab dafür, wie man selbst auf Andere und vor allem auf Fremde schaut. Montaigne lesen heißt einen Freund und ein Vorbild finden, ohne deshalb eine rosarote Brille aufsetzen zu müssen.

[Johnny Old Books · Rating 4 out of 5]

I enjoyed this book quite a lot. I got a kick out of "national characters" which have not changed too much in 200 years. A modern writer might not note how wind, smoke, or water was used to turn meat on the spit, but it is interesting to me. Overall an interesting travelogue with amusing digressions. Poor Michel though, taking the waters as a cure for kidney stones.

[Alain]

Une livre ?tonnant o? l'on d?couvre l'auteur des Essais sous un jour nouveau.
Montaigne nous livre au jour le jour les d?tails de son voyage en Italie de juin 1580 ? novembre 1581, m?me les plus intimes.
Relisez les Essais apr?s ce voyage, elles s'?claireront de feux nouveaux.

[Philippe Billé · Rating 3 out of 5]

http://journaldoc.canalblog.com/archi...

[Vlad Copil · Rating 3 out of 5]

Incroyable qu'il n'aimât pas Florence

[Emre Tarduş · Rating 4 out of 5]

Muhtemelen, ilk önce Montaigne'in denemelerine baksam daha düzenli bir okuma olacaktı ama Yol Günlüğü metninin de her ne kadar bir okur kitlesine hitap etme amacı taşımasa da okura söyleyecek cümlelerinin olduğunu düşünüyorum. Burjuvalaşan nesilleri tanımak için, Montaigne bence çok uygun bir isim. Metinde "Mösyo de Montaigne âdeti olduğu üzere, bilgi almak amacıyla hemen bu kentte bir din alimi aradı ve buldu" diye devam eden cümleye kahkaha attım. Belki de sadece bana öyle geliyordur ama bu bence bilgiye karşı aşırı bir açlık, Kral Oidipus vari bir soruları ben sorarım kibri. Benim bakışım ise hem Montaigne'in konusu hem de hakikat arayışı için ansiklopedik bilgilerin zannedildiği kadar yeterli olmadığı yönünde. Sağlık alt başlığında sıkıcı detaylar var bu da es geçilmemeli. Ayrıca Ömer Bozkurt'a titiz çalışması için teşekkür ederim.

[Miguel Luna · Rating 4 out of 5]

Una mirada única a la Europa renacentista con unas observaciones de primera mano, que, de no venir descritas en el diario, se habrían perdido para siempre, pues con frecuencia el autor se enfoca en aspectos cotidianos y populares que la historia con frecuencia deja de lado.

[Mircea Băduț]

Lectura îmi oferã o experiență uimitoare: devin martor la o "secțiune" prin Europa anilor 1580-1581. Prin aceastã incursiune virtuală aflu aspecte surprinzătoare de istorie, politicã, antropologie, urbanism, administrație publică, economie, gastronomie, ș.a..

[Дмитрий Нечаев · Rating 5 out of 5]

Чудесный дневник (у Гете куда скучнее), когда-нибудь надо будет проехаться по этому маршруту

[Carlos Collarte · Rating 2 out of 5]

El Diario de viaje de Montaigne podría haber sido un breve texto sobre la Europa donde se dan las luchas de religión y acaba siendo un compendio de como expulsar piedras del riñón y deposiciones.

[Célia · Rating 2 out of 5]

Ravie d'avoir lu les histoires de coliques d'il y a 500 ans

[Justine K Drennan · Rating 3 out of 5]

Come for the transalpine journey, stay for the detailed descriptions of the many and various kidney stones that Monsieur de Montaigne has lately passed through his prick, ranging from bloody to gray, fine as sand to pine-nut-sized.

[Andrea Puig · Rating 4 out of 5]

Del 22 de junio de 1850 al último día de noviembre de 1581, Montaigne conjugó la errancia del pensamiento con la del cuerpo y la mirada, recorriendo llanuras, trigales, viñedos, plazas, mientras refrescaba su palabra en las aguas, siempre presentes en su diario, de fuentes musicales, termales o nacimientos. Su pluma recoge historias que despuntan entre el fervor de una procesión, la exhibición social en carruajes o la ostentación de los palacios que visita, parte del camino de ruina y renovación que persigue.

Reflexiones sobre la religiosidad de los pueblos, explicaciones sobre las costumbres alimenticias de los pueblos visitados y los personajes que le acogen en cada estación constituyen las páginas del diario, que transcurre entre el italiano y el francés, nutriéndose de sus ensayos o siendo germen para sus escritos posteriores, que al final brotaría entre las paredes de su torre circular.