A personal chef monograph, and the first book, from globally-acclaimed chef Ana Roš of Hiša Franko in Slovenia
Set near the Italian border in Slovenia's remote Soča valley, in the foothills of mountains and beside a turquoise river full of trout, Ana Roš tells the story of her life. Through essays, recollections, recipes, and photos, she shares the idyllic landscape that inspires her, the abundant seasonal ingredients from local foragers, the tales of fishing and exploring, and the evolution of her inventive and sophisticated food at Hiša Franko - where she has elevated Slovenian food and become influential in the global culinary landscape.
“Being a farmer at that time did not have the same status as being a farmer today; sadly, it wasn’t celebrated as something to be proud of. Thankfully, times have changed.” Ana Roš, page 43
I never really connected with cooking beyond the joy of eating dishes prepared by people I love. Some of those meals were pure art on the plate. Through the same friends, I also discovered biodynamic wines, still almost invisible in Croatia, another reminder that we’re (Croatia) about twenty years behind Slovenia.
Ana Roš’s book is everything a coffee table book should be: big, heavy, and beautifully designed. My coffee table is always cluttered with books🤷🏻♀️, those arriving, those leaving, those waiting for their turn on the shelf, or the ones I’m currently reading (to my partner’s dismay). On the rare occasion the table is tidy, the central place belongs to Mataković’s hard-covered collection with the symbolic title Shit (GOVNO).
Let’s back to Ana Roš. The pages are a delight—breathtaking photos of dishes Slovenian landscapes, and portraits of people. The story of Ana’s life is told by several voices, including her own. I thought I’d just flip through it, but instead I got pulled into the life, growth, and bold choices of this remarkable woman.
I still remember my stay at Nebesa (stunning place) back in 2013, before I knew anything about Ana or her family, who own the place. The shared room full of books, the pantry stocked with local delicacies, hemp soap—it all left a lasting impression.
The leitmotiv of this book is Ana’s love and respect for nature, for tradition, for the mountains and rivers—for all living species, so vulnerable and unprotected from us humans. This is how the book speaks to me, how I feel its essence. “We, people from Soča Valley, deeply respect our rivers. We are almost afraid of our wild waters. Most of us do not kayak. Most of the people from the valley never fish. Most of the people from valley never eat a trout, grayling or artcic char. For us, the rivers are sort of magical, mythological places.”
This book captures that same spirit: passion, rebellion, love, and dedication. I hope Ana is doing well, and I can’t wait for her restaurant to open near to my currently home.
Very complex recipes that don’t seem that interesting (except texturally). Many contain unobtainable ingredients. Feels like more of an advertisement for the restaurant than a useful book to cook or learn from unless you’re aiming to open a 2-3 Michelin star restaurant. If I didn’t think there’s a very small audience of professional chefs that could find this book helpful, I would have rated it lower.
A journey to Hiša Franko before I can finally take my tastebuds there in person. :) If you are interested in Ana Roš, I recommend you watch the Chef´s Table episode on her (Netflix).