Last Monday, I arrived home after a trip to Cornwall. Not really, of course. My trip was courtesy of Dark, Salt, Clear, which, though short, fully immerses you in life in Newlyn, a small fishing village close to Penzance in Cornwall.
Like one of my favourite short story collections, The Sing of the Shore, it doesn’t romanticise Cornwall, which is perhaps the aspect I like best about Lamorna Ash’s book. Cornwall has become quite the tourist destination (I’ve been there myself), visitors hoping to get an ‘authentic’ experience of a romantic fishing village with quaint little cottages. But life in a fishing village is not quaint, and it is not romantic – it’s harsh, unforgiving, complicated, and highly depends on the whims of the weather, on fishing politics, and on the climate. Yet Newlyn keeps fighting not to turn into an empty shell of a place, filled only with rental cottages and touristy restaurants. Fishing is their livelihood and their pride.
Ash doesn’t judge or place blame when it comes to problematic fishing practices either, yet she doesn’t shy away from the subject. On the contrary, she talks to several fishermen about issues related to the climate and the fishing industry. Overfishing and global warming are keenly felt and observed by fishermen – in fact, they notice the ongoing changes much sooner and to a higher degree than those of us who live in larger cities.
She paints a rather double-edged picture of life at sea, and by the sea, as fishermen and relatives of fishermen. Crew equally dread and look forward to going back to sea, hate and love the loneliness far from land, are excited about and feel oddly in limbo when heading back to shore. Their families loathe their going to sea, yet couples sometimes find it difficult to spend longer periods of time together if trips are postponed or fishermen are forced to stay on land. Danger lurks, both in the waves, in the drinking, and in the fishermen’s very identity as fishermen – if you’re ‘stranded’ due to injuries, illness, or age, your whole identity seems to fall away, and many feel lost and depressed, some even taking their own lives. Yet the sea has an incredible pull, like a siren calling them all back out there, again and again.
I had hoped to be completely blown away by this one, but there were a few things that irked me a little bit. Firstly, I missed some sort of chronology. The chapters jump around in Ash’s time in Newlyn, mostly without any hints at the time that particular thing happens, but occasionally marked by something along the lines of “two weeks before the end of my last visit to Newlyn”. Sometimes it worked well – I liked how every third or so chapter returned to her week-long fishing trip with the Filadelfia – but more often than not it annoyed me. Second, Ash’s immaturity also got slightly on my nerves. She keeps marvelling at how someone in their start- to mid-twenties can be settled down with girlfriend/wife/boyfriend/husband, have children already or on the way, and can know what they want to do with their life and be content. It’s not *that* uncommon, even in larger cities – and it felt like an odd focus for a nature book.
On the other hand, I did like her more academic approach to writing this book, which is not necessarily something you get a lot of with nature writing; but Ash did some homework and some background reading, which ended up enriching the story. I also really enjoyed the different points of view she works into the narrative – those of fishermen, those staying behind, younger residents, older residents, a geologist, a birder, and many more besides.
Overall, a read I recommend - and an author I'd definitely pick up again.
/NK