To travel, then, is to do, not only to see. To travel best is to be of the sportsmen of the road. To take a chance, and win; to feel the glow of muscles too long unused; to sleep on the ground at night and find it soft; to eat, not because it is time to eat, but because one's body is clamoring for food; to drink where every stream and river is pure and cold; to get close to the earth and see the stars–this is travel.
Mary Roberts Rinehart is best known for her pioneering and very successful mystery novels, but she also wrote some nonfiction, including a pair of travel books about trips she took in Glacier National Park. This is the first, the account of her 1915 journey across the park by horseback as a member of a party of 42, led by outfitter and dude rancher Howard Eaton.
She enjoys the natural beauty and physical challenges of the ride and is also a great observer of the foibles of the adventurers, including herself: I cannot cast for trout. I do it, but my technique sets the boat to rocking and fishermen to grinding their teeth. There are some interesting cameos, as Eaton was a friend and North Dakota neighbor of Theodore Roosevelt, and famed Western artist Charlie Russell was one of Rinehart's fellow travelers on this trip.
She occasionally steps back and comments on the Park in the big picture: Now and then the United States Government does a very wicked thing. Its treatment of the Indians, for instance, and especially of the Blackfeet, in Montana. But that's another story. The point is that, to offset these lapses, there are occasional Government idealisms. Our National Parks are the expression of such an ideal.
I enjoyed the free LibriVox audiobook read by Laura Victoria and probably will listen to the later Tenting To-Night; A Chronicle Of Sport And Adventure In Glacier Park And The Cascade Mountains, also.