Hangdog Days: Conflict, Change, and the Race for 5.14

by Jeff Smoot

Hangdog Days vividly chronicles the era when rock climbing exploded in popularity, attracting a new generation of talented climbers eager to reach new heights via harder routes and faster ascents. This contentious, often entertaining period gave rise to sport climbing, climbing gyms, and competitive climbing--indelibly transforming the sport.

Jeff Smoot was one of those brash young climbers, and here he traces the development of traditional climbing “rules,” enforced first through peer pressure, then later through intimidation and sabotage. In the late ’70s, several climbers began introducing new tactics including “hangdogging,” hanging on gear to practice moves, that the old guard considered cheating. As more climbers broke ranks with traditional style, the new gymnastic approach pushed the limits of climbing from 5.12 to 5.13. When French climber Jean-Baptiste Tribout ascended To Bolt or Not to Be, 5.14a, at Smith Rock in 1986, he cracked a barrier many people had considered impenetrable.

In his lively, fast-paced history enriched with insightful firsthand experience, Smoot focuses on the climbing achievements of three of the era’s superstars: John Bachar, Todd Skinner, and Alan Watts, while not neglecting the likes of Ray Jardine, Lynn Hill, Mark Hudon, Tony Yaniro, and Peter Croft. He deftly brings to life the characters and events of this raucous, revolutionary time in rock climbing, exploring, as he says, “what happened and why it mattered, not only to me but to the people involved and those who have followed.”

Genres: Climbing, Nonfiction, Memoir, History, Outdoors, Audiobook

320 pages, Paperback

First published March 1, 2019

Reviews

[Trevor James · Rating 5 out of 5]

Jeff Smoot did a fantastic job giving us the day to day of 1970s/80s climbing. Full of vivid characters, historic crags, and classic lines, you must read Hangdog Days if you like climbing even a little.

Anyone know how I can get a copy of his 600 page first draft?

[John Clark · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fantastic historical narrative about the progression from old school ethics to the modern melting pot of ethics. A lot more crack climbing stories than I expected and they are fantastic. Real tear-jerker ending.

[Michael · Rating 5 out of 5]

I’m no climber, but I am a giant nerd about Yosemite. This was a great read. A fresh take on some stories from other sources, and some new stories, for me. Really great escaping down the road with the author.

[Marlise · Rating 1 out of 5]

Very technical, not interesting for the non-climber.

[David · Rating 3 out of 5]

reasonably entertaining stories from 1970s/80s Western US rock climbing circles. Very thick on the climbing jargon and thus tough to follow if you're like me -- somewhat interested outsider who doesn't participate in climbing.

The very extensive discussion of which climbing tactics people did or did not consider acceptable reminded me of track discussions in which people get bent out of shape re "sit and kick" tactics of Mo Farah et al. vs. front-running a la the late Steve Prefontaine. In that realm it has always struck me as nonsense -- the idea is to get to the finish line first, and anyone who runs in a style that doesn't benefit her/him in that endeavor is being stupid within the parameters of the sport, whether it pleases purists or not.

I had some trouble in reading this book discerning which tactics were akin to drafting off someone else and outkicking them vs. which were like faking your data in a research project or doping in sports, i.e., pure and simple cheating.

As might be expected from a non-lucrative sport involving extreme risk, rock climbing definitely seems to attract some eccentric characters.

[Joey Allison · Rating 5 out of 5]

Sooooo good. Insightful, funny, and in-depth look into the history of climbing in the US. Growing up 40 minutes from Index, beginning my climbing journey at Vertical World (club) while also making several Smith Rock trips with family and friends each year - this book did an amazing job of colorfully describing and recreating these places. My only gripe is that it wasn't longer! And after reading the Epilogue I know Jeff could have kept going! Release the 2nd volume for us climbing junkies man!!!

Super stoked on this book. Has inspired many conversations with belay partners since reading. Loved it!

[Monica St. Dennis · Rating 3 out of 5]

I'm only new to climbing, and (so far) I've only climbed indoors, so I am 100% certain that this book was not meant for me.

Don't get me wrong. It was interesting stories, but it was so hard to follow -- I kept having to stop to look up climbing jargon. That might have been easier if I'd read it in print instead of listening on audio, but based on the other reviews it might not have been.

I'm looking forward to revisiting this in a few years after I've passed my 5.10a plateau and (hopefully) started climbing outdoors. I think I'll like it better once I know enough to follow it easily.

[Zoe Newcomb · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book painted a beautiful picture of the climbing scene in the 70s/80s. Wonderfully detailed stories of crag antics and adventures. Smoot immerses the reader with his stories. Very easy and enjoyable read!

[Moose_Meat · Rating 5 out of 5]

Jeff if you're reading this, give us the Directors Cut 600 page manuscript.

[Xzs · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book helped fill in some missing links and historical context of how climbing has evolved in the US. As an armchair climbing fan, I appreciated the perspective and the personalities. It took Smoot two decades to compile this volume, so there’s a rich history to unpack. Unfortunately half of the text was cut from the original manuscript and it was noticeable. Although I thoroughly enjoyed the stories of the personalities and climbs, I couldn’t help but feel disjointed reading the book. Is the book about Todd Skinner? Is it about Jeff Smoot’s extensional dilemmas? Is is about hangdogging? Is it about the evolution of sport climbing? I’m not quite sure, the book is not linear, the focus drifts from crag to crag. But then again, I suppose that’s a lot like life - life really cant fit into a 300-page manuscript and nor can Smoot’s examination of the climbers and crags that he has encountered. In the end I found the epilogue to be the most enlightening and cohesive part of the book (which is counterintuitive since the epilogue introduced the reader to climbers and concepts not covered in the main volume.). I consider the disjointed nature of this book to be a victim of the publishing world and a victim of an author who held onto his manuscript for a bit too long. Nonetheless, I enjoyed the book, and came away with insight and appreciation for the rich history of the US climbing scene. However, I do not think this book would be well received by someone unfamiliar with climbing. The uninitiated reader would be left hangdogged by the name dropping, bolt chopping and dirtbagging.

[Lydia · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book was recommended to me by an avid climber...avid enough to make me nervous. In the right climber's hands, this could be a good review of the history of climbing mainly from a Seattle, Washington perspective. Smoot covers personalities and happenings from 1979-2002. He chronicles the goal to climb a 5.14. There are written alpine guides of these places, but Smoot is working for a climbing magazine and makes it all come alive, whether he is in Index, WA, Yosemite, CA, Joshua Tree, CA or further afield in the Gunks, NY or in Europe.
The fight is over styles of climbing (old folks v. new guys), who are the best climbers with the highest mountains (Europe v. U.S.), and who can do the most daring thing the fastest without falling to his death. Oh, and ways to keep the mountains pristine--most of the best climbing places are in National or State parks. You'll recognize mountaineering equipment folks like Royal Robbins, Yvon Chouinard, living on peanut butter like the rest of them in their early days. I learned you have to be incredibly strong, with flawless technique to climb a 5.14 rated blank wall. The achievement puts you in the top 1% of climbers. Nightly pullups in your basement needed.

[Tyler Hoilien · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book to me forever to read mainly due to other things going on in my life. But I read the back half in a few days while living at Miguel’s Pizza in the Red. Reading this book about climbing at one of the best climbing locations in the world was very fitting. This book gives an excellent telling of something people have tried to tell in the past, the emergence of sport climbing in the 80’s. I think what makes this book so great at telling this story is that it was written by someone who was there. It also tells a really good story about Todd Skinner a climber who isn’t talked about enough, but this book helps explain everything you would have ever needed to know about him. Mainly just about his attitude of adventure, and how amazingly polite it sounded like he was. I love how this book focuses on climbing in the 70’s-80’s and doesn’t put one of the stone masters as the protagonist, they come up but they aren’t the main characters. This book really makes me want to go out and find the stories of Rock climbing that haven’t been told yet.

[Caroline McIntyre · Rating 5 out of 5]

I tore through this book in a matter of days, and am desperate for a second volume. Smoot told the stories of the time without overly romanticizing, or villainizing any one person or style, and transcended his own personal beliefs to write a well rounded history of a particular time and place that was incredibly formative in climbing.

This book is not particularly suitable for non climbers due to jargon and lack of in depth explanation, which I think is part of its delight. Having climbed in these places, knowing the particular routes, being able to conjure the faces and voices of the subjects gives greater depth to the narrative. Reading it feels like a sort of right of passage for any rock climber, and this homage to a moment should be required reading.

[Neko · Rating 5 out of 5]

this book was absolutely enthralling. it felt like a long form mountain project forum argument that i couldn't stop reading. it made me feel so grateful for my community, and especially to be surrounded by a lot of older climbers who are so willing to talk about the early days.
i felt like the way he addresses gender disparity in climbing was a little incomplete== there was a section where he spoke about it at the end, but i wished his acknowledgement of female climbers throughout the history of the sport was dispersed throughout the book, not confined to a single chapter.
this is it--im finally gonna buy some rps.

[Erik Laing · Rating 4 out of 5]

As a climber who came of age in the 90s, with plentiful choices of gyms, it never seemed to me that there was much of another way. As a climbing guide at youth camps I college, I was well familiar with the writing of John Long, and names like Lynn Hill, Ron Kauk and others, but this book brings to light a lot of what was happening prior to then and how we got to where we are today.
The characters really make the story, and there are some REAL CHARACTERS in Smoot's book.

[Truth Devour · Rating 5 out of 5]

Rulz Schmulz

Listening to the good old days of these adventure seeking, life living rock climbing super stars is a joy. I truly love that early on in life they knew that this one thing, their obsession with the challenge of conquering great big walls was what they wanted (perhaps needed) to do.

I'm living vicariously through the details of the escapades described & loving every page.

[Shane Brelinsky · Rating 5 out of 5]

I loved this book. I’m a climbing history nerd but wanted more than the standard “he climbed this and she climbed that” narrative. Smoot’s story telling is incredible and captivating. I was in the back of a classroom at school when I finished this book and I’m pretty sure I had to hold back tears. Legends of the game we call climbing and their interpersonal relationships and competition… what else could you want.

[Carla · Rating 3 out of 5]

Listened to the audio book - didn't really like the narrator.

I generally enjoyed the book, but found the jargon a little distracting, particularly when the author all of a sudden started explaining terms at the end of the book.

[Cody Oldham · Rating 2 out of 5]

I can understand many people will like this book a lot, it just wasn't for me. Seemed like collection of routes, rating and people. This is fine but it was very long for that. I did like the trad/sport discussion but I did disagree with the author's argument.

[Craig Randall · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book bridges the gap where “Valley Uprising” ends and “Free Solo” beings — a chronicle of the modernization of rock climbing from trad to sport. Phenomenal account.

[Christopher Elliott · Rating 3 out of 5]

Could have been shorter. Rehash of the Robbins-Harding era of Yosemite climbing seemed out of place.

[Zach · Rating 4 out of 5]

A fun history of climbing that makes me want to take a spontaneous road trip.

[Andrew Jones · Rating 3 out of 5]

Fun read. Good history and stories.

[Tobias Mcevoy · Rating 4 out of 5]

Great climbing memoir—maybe my favorite. Probably not intended for general public audience though, no explanation of climbing systems or lingo … which is probably why I liked it so much.

[Sydney Austad · Rating 4 out of 5]

OH THE DRAMA

[Casey Vavrina · Rating 3 out of 5]

Good insight into the history of US Sport Climbing. It is often repetitive and jumbled as if separate articles/writings were pieced together, which wasn't great, but overall it was enjoyable to read.

[Nick · Rating 5 out of 5]

Awesome read! This book introduces thrilling stories, detailed personal accounts, and new characters not seen in many other climbing memoirs.

[Austin Freking · Rating 3 out of 5]

Fun discussion about the advent of modern sport climbing. Lots of fun insight into climbing history.

[Levon Brunello · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great perspective. Amazing stories

[Nick Patilsen · Rating 5 out of 5]

Easily one of the best books I have ever read, and one that makes me wish to have been born in a different time