Detours: A Decolonial Guide to Hawai'i

by Hokulani K. Aikau (Editor), Vernadette Vicuña Gonzalez (Editor)

Many people first encounter Hawai‘i through the imagination—a postcard picture of hula girls, lu‘aus, and plenty of sun, surf, and sea. While Hawai‘i is indeed beautiful, Native Hawaiians struggle with the problems brought about by colonialism, military occupation, tourism, food insecurity, high costs of living, and climate change. In this brilliant reinvention of the travel guide, artists, activists, and scholars redirect readers from the fantasy of Hawai‘i as a tropical paradise and tourist destination toward a multilayered and holistic engagement with Hawai‘i's culture and complex history. The essays, stories, artworks, maps, and tour itineraries in Detours create decolonial narratives in ways that will forever change how readers think about and move throughout Hawai‘i.

Contributors. Hōkūlani K. Aikau, Malia Akutagawa, Adele Balderston, Kamanamaikalani Beamer, Ellen-Rae Cachola, Emily Cadiz, Iokepa Casumbal-Salazar, David A. Chang, Lianne Marie Leda Charlie, Greg Chun, Joy Lehuanani Enomoto, S. Joe Estores, Nicholas Kawelakai Farrant, Jessica Ka‘ui Fu, Candace Fujikane, Linda H. L. Furuto, Sonny Ganaden, Cheryl Geslani, Vernadette Vicuña Gonzalez, Noelani Goodyear-Ka‘ōpua, Tina Grandinetti, Craig Howes, Aurora Kagawa-Viviani, Noelle M. K. Y. Kahanu, Haley Kailiehu, Kyle Kajihiro, Halena Kapuni-Reynolds, Terrilee N. Kekoolani-Raymond, Kekuewa Kikiloi, William Kinney, Francesca Koethe, Karen K. Kosasa, N. Trisha Lagaso Goldberg, Kapulani Landgraf, Laura E. Lyons, David Uahikeaikalei‘ohu Maile, Brandy Nālani McDougall, Davianna Pōmaika‘i McGregor, Laurel Mei-Singh, P. Kalawai‘a Moore, Summer Kaimalia Mullins-Ibrahim, Jordan Muratsuchi, Hanohano Naehu, Malia Nobrega-Olivera, Katrina-Ann R. Kapā‘anaokalāokeola Nākoa Oliveira, Jamaica Heolimelekalani Osorio, No‘eau Peralto, No‘u Revilla, Kalaniua Ritte, Maya L. Kawailanaokeawaiki Saffery, Dean Itsuji Saranillio, Noenoe K. Silva, Ty P. Kāwika Tengan, Stephanie Nohelani Teves, Stan Tomita, Mehana Blaich Vaughan, Wendy Mapuana Waipā, Julie Warech
 

Genres: Nonfiction, Travel, History, Indigenous, Activism, Politics, Essays

448 pages, Paperback

First published November 8, 2019

Reviews

[Leah]

I'll be honest: this one was a bit of a slog for me.

I know this is no fault of the book's publisher, editors, or contributing authors, but this book was not quite what I expected. I had read an article online that pitched this book as an unconventional guidebook for thoughtful travelers who want to go beyond the tourist sights and learn more about Hawaiian culture. Since I was preparing for a trip to Hawaii, that sounded right up my alley. Unfortunately (for me, at least), this is not a book whose primary audience is would-be tourists looking to better educate themselves (although would-be tourists can certainly get an education from reading it.) Instead, it is primarily a book of decolonial essays written by (primarily indigenous Hawaiian) academics about indigenous Hawaiians, for indigenous Hawaiians. Almost every essay is sprinkled with a healthy dose of the Hawaiian language. Don't know Hawaiian? Well, there's a small glossary in the back, and the book's editors encourage readers to learn the Hawaiian language.

It was about the time I read this editorial encouragement that I realized Detours was not the book for me. However, I still had more than 350 pages to go before I reached the end, and I wasn't going to give up, because this book fulfilled my 2021 reading challenge category: A book by an indigenous author. So finish it I did. And I am happy to report that the book's final section was my favorite of them all, so there was some reward for my perseverance at the end of the rainbow.

I will end this review with these final words of advice for prospective readers: If you're looking for a book of academic essays on the evils of colonialism in Hawaii, and you can read Hawaiian, you've come to the right place. If, however, you're looking for a thoughtful, unconventional travel guide to Hawaii, it might be best to begin your search elsewhere.

[Jessica · Rating 5 out of 5]

Amazing book that should be required reading for all Americans (and any other tourist coming to visit Hawaiʻi).

We titled this book Detours because it is meant to redirect you from the fantasy of Hawaiʻi as a tropical paradise toward an engagement with Hawaiʻi that is pono (just, fitting)...While this place is indeed beautiful, it is not an exotic postcard or a tropical playground with happy hosts. People here struggle with the problems brought about by colonialism, military occupation, tourism, food insecurity, high costs of living, and the effects of a changing climate.
-Hōkūlani K. Aikau & Vernadette Vicuña Gonzalez, Editors

Absolutely loved Malia Akutagawa's essay, "An Island Negotiating a Pathway for Responsible Tourism." I wonder how their process and traditions could be applied to the other Hawaiian islands. This last quote by Hanohano Naehu brought tears to my eyes:

Our blood is Kanaka. You cannot be Kanaka. Hawaiian is our nationality . . . You see this what we standing on? This is ʻāina and it matters so much that if you love this place and you don't wanna develop it, destroy it, [or] abuse it, then we on the same team. If you eyeing this place and its resources as a money-making vehicle for yourself, we enemies. Right? And it doesn't matter what race, religion, what sex you [are]. If you love this place and you can mālama our ʻāina the way we love it and our ancestors loved it, then brah, we can be more than friends, we can be family.

Further Reading:
Recent Kauai article on responsible tourism


Pop Sugar’s 2020 Reading Challenge - A book published the month of your birthday

[Kristina · Rating 5 out of 5]

This one took me a lot longer than I thought it would…and that was probably because it was so sobering. While the premise is about how to engage with Hawaii in a way that is decolonial, I felt that the subtext was ultimately, don’t. Which…is more than fair. But of course, it is the colonizer’s responsibility to engage in ways that clean up the messes they’ve made. Bottom line…foreigners have done so much to hurt this land, and while that hurt doesn’t define it, there is a lot of work to be done to fix it. I learned so much from this book, things I wouldn’t have learned elsewhere…a very worthwhile read. Grateful the editors created it.

[Onii · Rating 5 out of 5]

Incredible scholars who identify the connections and power dynamics between a post-colonialist Hawaii to the Hawaiian Sovereignty Movement, and how a self-sustaining future lies within these Native Hawaiian methods that they used in their society centuries ago.

[Tiffany L · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is by far the best book about Hawaiian history that I've read. The stories are semi-short and written by "real" people. I've learned a lot!!

[JulieK · Rating 4 out of 5]

I appreciate the existence of this book, as someone who loves visiting Hawaii but is also aware of its colonial past and the problems of tourism. Like with any anthology, I was more into some pieces than others, but overall found it worthwhile.

[Joe · Rating 4 out of 5]

Made me think a lot about my preconceived notions about what Hawaii is as a place and my (and the US’s) relationship to it. Some big takeaways: Many people like myself go for their whole lives without questioning how or why Hawaii became part of the US, and the obvious next question of “should it be part of the US now?” definitely never occurs to us. In general I think most of the US education system flattens the relationship to “monarchy bad, democracy good” or the more nefarious “anything for national security”. It’s clear that the USA brings more harm than good to Hawaii, and especially native Hawaiians, and questioning this relationship is another small piece of undoing years of western capitalist propaganda that I was raised on. The question of how to decouple the Hawaiian economy from the industries of tourism and the all-consuming military complex is not easy, and the book doesn’t present it as such. It makes it clear that the land management practices common to the US and other western nations are harmful to Hawaii (and to the rest of the US as well, but that’s outside the scope of this book) and that self-governance is the only way Hawaii can begin to undo the effects of those practices. Hopefully the process of decolonizing Hawaii can be a template for how to reshape the US as a whole into a more equitable place, where profit and markets are the driver of any and all urban development. Community building should be at the forefront of these developments, including but not limited to ensuring that existing communities are not disrupted but are strengthened.

[Elke · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book needs to be mandatory reading before anyone ever books travel to Hawai’i! I will admit to already having a deep affinity to Hawai’i, the indigenous folk, the interconnectedness of her people to the land and sea, the cultures and history before ever reading one page in here. But the rich sharing of her little told stories; the stories of the land, the language, the song, the spirit, and the gut wrenching abuse and betrayal brought to her by colonialism emotionally moved me through each chapter. It’s not, however, just a book about the past, but instead a sharing of the stories as a way of moving forward, working towards decolonization, and restoring ea (life, breath, sovereignty.) It highlights decolonial projects taking place, and acknowledges the work of “restoring ea is ongoing, collective, and generative.” This collective work is just a fraction of unearthed stories to share. There is much more work to do.

My only real criticism is I wish the book included a pronunciation guide for all the beautiful language that was shared.

[Robert Patterson · Rating 4 out of 5]

Powerful well curated collection of essays on 'decolonizing' Hawai'i pragmatically and conceptually.

Sharp varied topics ranging from colonial abuses, native legal rights, historical issues, tourism, economic/food security/insecurity + more arranged in a brilliant tour guide of the islands. Suitable for "tourists" , "locals" and ultimately all visitors or peopel to remind us to connect with the land, people, places. Extend this practice to all places. We are carers of place for the next generation.

Does not fall into victim tropes, identity politic swindles, or post modern bullshit. Instead a practical engaging perspective narrated by historians, activists, lawyers , guides, more.

Ultimately just an introduction - each essay just a gateway into entire range of other topics.

Recommended.

Mahalo.

[KT · Rating 4 out of 5]

A good collection of essays critical of the colonialism negatively impacting Hawai'o that redirects the reader from the tourist fantasy of Hawai'i as a tropical paradise to Hawai'i as it is, by decentering the tourist, rather than an exotic postcard or tropical playground with happy hosts, it is home to people struggling with the problems brought about by colonialism, military occupation, tourism, food insecurity, and the effects of climate change. Thus, an important underlying assumption of this book, centred on decolonialisation, is that not all knowledge, information, or access to places is open and available to everyone

Instead an emphasis is placed on loving a place without developing, destroying or abusing it

[lisa · Rating 5 out of 5]

Read while deciding whether it was OK to visit Hawaii.

"We refuse to be ghosts, but we still haunt" -- from "Princess Ka'iulani Haunts Empire in Waikiki" by Stephanie Nohelani Teves

"If you love this place and you can malama our aina the way we love it and our ancestors loved it, then brah, we can be more than friends we can be family" -- Hanohano Naehu. This quote was referenced in several chapters, namely "An Island Renegotiating a Pathway for Responsible Tourism" by Malia Akutagawa, and "Welcome to the Future: Restoring Keawanui Fishpond" by Kalaniua Ritte, Hanohano Naehu, Noelani Goodyear-Ka-opua, and Julie Warech.

[Joel · Rating 5 out of 5]

I'm grateful that I was able to read it this preparation for moving to Mānoa for a graduate program. This incredible resource gathers a wealth of resources on decolonial thought in the area. It offers the true history of this land and brings to light the damages done by the US, the military-industrial complex, the tourism industry, and on. Any one of these essays could serve as an excellent standalone to better understand the region. This should be required reading for anyone visiting or moving to Hawaiʻi.

[Lenore Marentette · Rating 5 out of 5]

If you plan to visit or move to Hawai'i, you should read this book (more like a collection of essays). It provides critical insights into the land and its history from the viewpoint of the Kanaka Oiwi--the indigenous people of Hawai'i. Much of the pieces will make haoles (like me) uncomfortable because it is vastly different from the paradise myth cultivated by the tourism industry. But it is information we need to learn and understand.

[Rosie · Rating 4 out of 5]

A useful and wide-ranging primer on Native Hawaiian efforts to reclaim sovereignty that covers ecology, art, history, cultural protocols and social justice. I enjoyed the articles on reviving traditional house and heiau building, the use of Kaho'olawe for revitalizing Native Hawaiian practices, and the struggle for control over Mauna Kea. This book provides an opening to understanding important issues in the Hawaiian islands for locals and tourists alike.

[Andy · Rating 2 out of 5]

I can't write a review that captures my opinion of this book better than the one Leah wrote, so I won't try. I'll simply echo that this is a book to learn about the problems brought about by colonialism; it's not much of an alternative guidebook.

I'll also advise you to wear your readers. Microscopic print in this one...

[Cherie · Rating 4 out of 5]

I started this book before I moved here, and didn't get too far. But finishing it while living here, wow. I get so much more out of the book now that I live here, that I know the places. This book has a critical look at both the colonial past and present, how messed up things are, real history, and so much more. Should be required reading for all Hawai'i residents.

[Meredith · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book is life changing. It took me months to read it all, but I feel like it opened my eyes not only to history I didn't know, but I see everything through a new lens because of how well this book exposes the colonialism and military occupation behind every facet of America.

[Jeanine · Rating 4 out of 5]

Required reading for anyone stepping off a plane in Hawaii

[Suzy Kopf · Rating 5 out of 5]

Powerful collection of essays from the perspective of native Hawaiians. I only wish there was an updated edition to read post pandemic!

[Laurie · Rating 4 out of 5]

I read a bit of this before our trip in 2023. The library has a copy.
Interesting for some history and how to think about comtemporary Hawaiians.

[Sara G]

Informative and thought-provoking. Brings historical context into the contemporary space.

[Isa Ramirez · Rating 5 out of 5]

Detours presented an incredibly important lesson on Hawai’i and colonialism. I interlibrary loaned a copy at my local library and am looking forward to owning a copy of my own in the near future.

[Jason · Rating 4 out of 5]

(2020 - #28)
1) Remembrance
2) Cultural archaeology
3) Political, poignant, powerful
Enjoyment: 4

Let us hope this book is a beginning for more books like this. It deserves a sequel and then some. Significant and thoughtfully arranged essays. Varied topics flow well and resonate through the progression of what it has to teach.

There are necessary truths here that need to be made visible. Beautifully realized, with metaphors that abound and prickle. This book is many things all at once: activistic, educational, inspirational...It also may offend in its interrogation and subversive tendencies. If some essays feel unwelcoming, ask why you may feel this way and then continue reading.

Quotes:
"This book is a guide to Hawaiʻi that does not put tourist desires at the center. It will not help re-create the discovery narrative. It will not help people find paradise. It does not offer solace in a multicultural Eden where difference is dressed in aloha shirts and grass skirts. The book is meant to unsettle, to disquiet, and to disturb the 'fact' of Hawaiʻi as a place for tourists. It is intended to guide readers toward practices that disrupt tourist paradise." -p.2 (Introduction)

"While this book is a guide, it should not be construed as a blanket invitation. Not everyone who reads this book will be invited or allowed to go to all of the places that are described. Some places and knowledge have been left out altogether because they are not meant for outsiders." -p.2

"Unless we actively work to dismantle this infrastructure and refuse the tourist imaginary, we will (wittingly or unwittingly) contribute to reproducing the occupation and colonization of these places, people, and practices." -p.3 (Introduction)

"Aloha is the audacity to feel. Pleasure as well as pain. Play as well as torment." -"Aloha is Deoccupied Love," Revilla and Osorio, p.129

"Aloha is a capacious and generative force of revolution." -"Aloha is Deoccupied Love," Revilla and Osorio, p.130

"We cannot control the winds, but we can always change our sails. When we change our sails, we often arrive not necessarily where we think we need to be, but exactly where we are supposed to be. The winds and other signs from the universe carry the voices of our ancestors, teachers, and navigators, who speak to us, if we will listen. They have taught us how to exist in the world today and sail with Indigenous wisdom while engaging twenty-first century connections as we reflect, observe, and live." -"We Never Voyage Alone," Furuto, p.362

"The children know who they are and where they come from, and they are writing their own histories in pulsating beats. We must listen to the construction of their words and songs to hear messages of equity, justice, reverence for life, and love of humankind." -"We Never Voyage Alone," Furuto, p.366