Kate McCahill takes a year to explore 10 countries in South America. She was inspired by Paul Theroux’s The Old Patagonian Express (which she carried with her) and duplicates his route with modifications, traveling by bus and cab. She does this alone she feels her partner back home drifting away.
The first part of her trip seems to be somehow planned in advance. There are homestays, English lessons and volunteer jobs. It seems that after Nicaragua and a visit from the slipping away lover “E_” she is on her own emotionally as well as in travel.
McCahill’s travelogue is like a movie of her trip. She recounts the transportation, how she finds it, how she waits, its cost and security and efficiency (mostly lack of). She similarly covers food, flora, streetscapes, landforms, markets, accommodations… This movie-view shows most in the people she meets. I can’t remember the names but the woman with the teenage sons and the man running from his wife come to mind. We see them like scenes of a film with no backstory or context. Why are they there? How typical they? Any context regarding the border guards and the park attendant in these “scenes” would similarly be welcome too.
While the prose is good to excellent throughout, I appreciated the later shorter chapters. The ones on the Bolivia mine and the landlord sisters in Argentina stand out. Here, McCahill gets as close as she gets to going deep.
There are generational and gender differences between the trip and the text of McCahill and Theroux. McCahill tells the reader about her life outside the trip. With Theroux, if he mentions it, you don’t really remember where he actually lives or if he has a family. Theroux may visit old friends, writing colleagues etc., but he doesn’t travel with them. McCahill shares not only meals but rooms and road time with other women and flirting young men she meets along the way. Theroux is a master of context. He does not just meet people, he “interviews” them. If McCahill can develop this and refine her more personal approach, she might produce modern travel classics.
This is a good book for armchair travelers with an interest in South America.