Reading this was a sublime experience. It took me to a transcendent place. One of the most extraordinary books I have ever read.
In the 1960s, the traditional owners of the land south of Cherrabun Station in Western Australia, the land today known as the Great Sandy Desert, left to work in white coloniser-run cattle stations, family by family. By the 1970s, nobody was left in the desert. Two sisters, Ngarta Jinny Bent (died 2002) and Jukuna Mona Chuguna, here tell their stories and memories. They remember their childhoods and youths in the desert, and they remember their move to Cherrabun Station. Both women are and were also artists, and their paintings are included in a colour-plate section in this book.
Two white women, Pat Lowe and Eirlys Richards, have supported the two artist-writers. Ngarta's story is given in the third person, as told to her interlocutors (and possibly recorded on cassette) in the late 1980s and first published in 1991. Jukuna's story is told in the first person and published her in English translation as well as in her mother tongue, Walmajarri. She wrote it down in Walmajarri in the late 1990s. Here is the beginning of her story; I copy it here because I just find it so extraordinary to be holding in my hands a bilingual book in both English and Walmajarri.
"Kurlampal marna ngunangani jarlu yapa jilijinga. Ngajukura ngarpu parla Wirtuka ngurrara. Jularni pila nganpayijarrarlu yini Kirikarrajarti nyanayirlarni. Kurriny nganpayijarra pila pirriyani jarlu ngarrangkarni. Nyanyala pilanya paja wirnkuma. Pajanani palunyanu kujangkurrajarra manawarntirla. 'Kkir! Kkir!'"
"When I was a child I lived in the sand dune country of the Great Sandy Desert to the south of Fitzroy Crossing. My father's birthplace is near the waterhole called Wirtuka. My father got his name, Kirikarrajarti, right there. It's a name that came from the ngarrangkarni (creation time or Dreamtime). In the ngarrangkarni, two men came to Wirtuka and found the place overrun by possums. They were all fighting and biting each other, some up in the trees and others down in holes in the ground. As they fought they were hissing, 'Kkir! Kkir!'"
Life in the desert revolved around (unsurprisingly) the waterholes. Waterholes are either jila (permanent) or jumu (temporary, e.g. during the Wet season). Important waterholes are inhabited by a water serpent spirit. Each person and family comes from a waterhole, and each family group walks among a network of waterholes. If a waterhole has been left untended for a while, it silts up and needs to be re-dug. People will leave tools and food for the next visitors to come after them. (This I find so moving.) The story of young Ngarta running away from some murderous men and living on her own for around a year shows how ingrained in her upbringing was the knowledge of the location of waterholes. Not once did she get lost. She always knew where to find water. The worst that happened was that once she got to a waterhole and it had dried up, and she needed to double back, going thirsty for one night.
Since my youth in Australia, I had heard stories of the supposed cruelty of traditional Aboriginal people in leaving behind their old people to die in the desert. Ngarta especially describes in detail how at least two women were left behind in this way, but it is not at all cruel. The first woman was a young relative whose little son had died of a sickness. The woman struck her head with rocks in her grief and asked to be left behind. Her family refused and took her with them. But she kept pleading with them and finally she was left behind, with a little water. Young Ngarta is distraught and starts to cry and ask, "Why did you leave her?" But her mother told her that it was as the younger woman had wished, "and there was nothing to be done." At the next camping place, they told the others. "Everyone was crying." What strikes me is the respect for the young woman's wishes. It makes me think about today's debates around the right to determine one's own death (in UK, there is the Dignity in Dying and the My Death, My Decision campaign). What also strikes me is the sorrow and grief felt by people when children die and when another family member dies. It makes me realise how callous were the racist allegations that I heard in my youth as if indigenous people felt no love and sorrow.
At another point, an older relative asks to die, and with great sorrow her family members leave her with a little water. My father died last month, and I have been thinking a lot about when is the right time to die. I realise that when one dies peacefully, in old age, there is a sense of it being the right time, of the soul being ready and even willing to let go. My realisation sheds another light on this old Aborginal woman asking for death; life has become a burden and death is there to welcome her. All of these accounts are very moving to me.
Also interesting is the way in which several people in the two sisters' stories are able to identify individuals by their footprints. And when Ngarta escapes the two murderous men, she takes care to tread on clumps of grass so as not to leave footprints behind. People also kept in touch with each other by lighting fires and the smoke would let others know where they were and that all was OK.
I had a glimpse into a life lived so far removed from my present-day life, so far away from the Industrial Revolution and capitalism and consumer commerce and modern telecommunications and also far removed from cities, temperate climate zones, agriculture and a settler lifestyle. It made me think: what are we humans?
Thank you to the Reading Women Challenge for the prompt "Memoir by an indigenous woman". Researching the prompt made me discover this wonderful, uplifting and brain-changing book.