Reflections of a Wine Merchant

by Neal I. Rosenthal

A leading importer of limited-production wines of character and quality takes us on an intimate tour through family-owned vineyards in France and Italy and reflects upon the last three decades of controversy, hype, and change in the world of wine
In the late 1970s, Neal I. Rosenthal set out to learn everything he could about wine. Today, he is one of the most successful importers of traditionally made wines produced by small family-owned estates in France and Italy. Rosenthal has immersed himself in the culture of Old World wine production, working closely with his growers for two and sometimes three generations. He is one of the leading exponents of the concept of “terroir”—the notion that a particular vineyard site imparts distinct qualities of bouquet, flavor, and color to a wine. In Reflections of a Wine Merchant , Rosenthal brings us into the cellars, vineyards, and homes of these vignerons, and his delightful stories about his encounters, relationships, and explorations—and what he has learned along the way—give us an unequaled perspective on winemaking tradition and what threatens it today.
Rosenthal was featured in the documentary film Mondovino and is one of the more outspoken figures against globalization, homogenization, and the “critic-ization” of the wine business. He was also a major subject in Lawrence Osborne’s The Accidental Connoisseur . His is an important voice in defense of the individual and the artisanal, and their contribution to our quality of life.

Genres: Wine, Nonfiction, Food

272 pages, Hardcover

First published April 29, 2008

Reviews

[Gavin McGrath · Rating 3 out of 5]

At first, an intriguing memoir but increasingly the author reveals his superiority and self-assurance. He seems to want wines to be the gifts only for the well healed and affluent. This is a shame as his own background is one hardly privileged.

He certainly dislikes Robert Parker and others.

What is definitely delightful is his collection of stories about the growers in France and Italy. They are the heroes and heroines of his book. About them the author is gracious and generous.

[Jacob Steckbeck · Rating 3 out of 5]

It must be hard to kiss your own ass while deep throating a wine bottle, yet this book is evidence it’s possible

[Alisha Niehaus Berger · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book made me laugh out loud at points--Neal Rosenthal is the most unapologetically arrogant narrator I've ever encountered. However, his knowledge is irreproachable, and his stories are fabulous windows into the world of the wine merchant and the behind the scenes stories of what we drink (or wish we could drink...it's not like I can really afford his selections!). And I truly appreciate his emphasis on a back-to-the-land (or, in his case, an "always-of-the-land") philosophy of wine: terroir, terroir, terroir, and screw messing with that. I'm glad to see another person touting the virtues of the local and the special and the "old way" versus the new and swank and made of corn. Worth a read, for sure! (If anyone ever feels inclined to buy me a bottle of Carema, I won't complain... ;))

[AGinNoCal · Rating 4 out of 5]

I've known Mr. Rosenthal for years and have relied on the wines he carries, the backgrounds he provides on the wine growers he represents, as well as his suggestions and recommendations when I've been traveling in the old world's wine countries. The book does, as some have mentioned, reflect his attitude, opinions, preferences, and prejudices, as well it should since it is, after all, a compilation of his reflections. While some might find him a bit arrogant, he has strongly held convictions and principles which have driven him and his company to hard earned success in an increasingly crowded and competitive market place. It is why one decides to rely upon him in his role as a merchant of fine wines, where a novice consumer's lack of experience and knowledge or habit of simply chasing points and labels, as many, many wine drinkers do, can easily lead one astray. Wine selling is a service, not simply a business. His palate and, I think, more importantly, his viewpoint, are consistent and based on years and years of building relationships in a world that can be foreign and impenetrable, and thus his advice and suggestions are invaluable to many of us. His company's name on the back of a bottle assures you of its quality, and the care taken in choosing it to import and sell, as well as the care taken in its distribution. I appreciated the opportunity provided through this book to visit cellars and homes into which I can only dream of gaining entry, and his tales of relationship building, and disintegration, as well as the ins and outs of the families and vineyards and villages involved, and the roles played by critics and others in the world of wine, made for very interesting reading.

[R Fontaine · Rating 3 out of 5]

Rosenthal was featured in the documentary film Mondovino and is one of the more outspoken figures against globalization, homogenization, and the "critic-ization" of the wine business.
I would agree.
His challenge is to taste beyond your normal habits.Burgundy/Bourgone is the main terrior in this authors opinion, but he tilts away from Napa
wines and their growing worldwide acceptance and, even preferance.

[Jami · Rating 4 out of 5]

If Rosenthal comes across as arrogant (a comment I noticed in other reviews), it is because he deserves to be so. He is the champion of independent, smaller production winemakers. He should be embraced in the same way we embrace I dependent bookstores. He expanded the American market. He is also spot on about the dangers of wine ratings, purchases by venture capitalists, and additives to and overworking of wines.

[Amanda · Rating 4 out of 5]

Enjoyable read for wine lovers

If you love wine you will enjoy the many short stories contained in this book. They are stories of dark underground cellars and sunny afternoons in the vineyards. It is sure to make you smile.

[Janet · Rating 3 out of 5]

Interesting book. My 5th book regarding wine that I have read recently. Not my favorite but good.

[Les Reynolds · Rating 3 out of 5]

Interesting, but these books start to sound the same.

[Kate · Rating 3 out of 5]

Review can be found here: https://youtu.be/j4K0WESvSEc

[Michael Butterworth · Rating 4 out of 5]

Neal Rosenthal might be a wine merchant, but he's not afraid to spill some tea. His 2008 memoir remains a fascinating look behind the scenes of the wine industry.

[Greg Windeler · Rating 5 out of 5]

The author beautify describes wines and makes you salivate while turning the pages.
It was a fun read winding through the various towns, cellars, and roads throughout Europe and meeting the colorful winemakers along the way. At the end of this book, I had a deeper appreciation for wine industry including the grapes, appellations, and winemakers. I now have a list of new grape varietals to try!

[Amy · Rating 5 out of 5]

I'm going through a fascination with wine. But, I still can recommend this book to anyone because it's by someone who is passionate about his work and really it's about authenticity in an increasingly facile world. Rosenthal wants the wines he imports to taste of place, to whisper of the foxes that den near the vines, the pollen of the nearby flowers, the minerals that flow up from the soil, the sun that falls on the grapes and is stored in their sweetness. This is a fascinating tale of a man's adventures looking for these wines which he describes as decreasingly available as more and more producers abandon traditional wine making techniques in favor of modern ones in the name of profit and also to pander to modern soda influenced tastes and the large blind tastings attended by reviewers who award more points to bold high alcohol profiles over subtle, nuanced, and sophisticated ones.

[Courtney · Rating 3 out of 5]

Try to read this book when you have access to some good wine because similar to the movie, Chocolat, it made me want to sample the subject of the story as I was reading it. Unfortunately I read most of it on a plane where the wine selection was "red or white." In short, Neal Rosenthal gives you an insider's look at the insular and intriguing world of small wine producers in France and Italy. He takes you behind the cellar doors where we would have no entry otherwise, and he makes you a believer in the concept of terroir and of doing things the right way. He creates some interesting characters and addresses the concepts of friends vs. business and family conflict, but after a while the stories seem to blend together and I found myself skimming the last several chapters because I felt as though I'd already read them. Nonetheless, the book is an educational and entertaining look at the challenges and rewards of finding fine wine through a disciplined and pure method.

[SKIM · Rating 4 out of 5]

An enjoyable read for those interested in the niche topic of the wine merchant business or for anyone who has enjoyed a Neal Rosenthal distributed wine (mainly Burgundies, southern Rhone, and northern Italians) at a restaurant or from the wine shop.

Neal Rosenthal recounts his 40-some years in the wine distribution business and does a good job conveying his philosophy that has served him well in the business: believing in the vineyard practices of his producers, building trust with his suppliers and customers, and how thinking long-term rather than just trying to incorporate the latest winemaking fad to turn a quick buck.

[Jason · Rating 4 out of 5]

In the late 1970s, Neal Rosenthal decided he wasn't cut out to be a lawyer and decided to travel to Burgundy with the dream of becoming a wine importer. The book is an educational, entertaining, and often humorous memoir of the people and estates he encountered on his path to success. If you enjoy this book, I'd highly recommend the conceptually identical _Adventures On The Wine Route_ by Kermit Lynch. Both books feature the obligatory rant against the "tyranny" of the 100 point rating system and its practitioners. Neither author purveys the types of wines that generally garner the highest scores from the critics, it should be noted.

[Frances · Rating 3 out of 5]

I read this book in anticipation of a Wine Book Club meeting next week at Brooklyn Wine Exchange. They had a wine tasting session with the author in advance, when I was through only the first four chapters. I found the stories of his relationships with the various growers/wine-makers warm and entertaining. I also really liked his philosophy, which fits so well with our current interest in knowing more of the specifics of from where our food comes. I look forward to enjoying more of his wines in the future and to keeping the book as a reference for future purchases.

[John · Rating 5 out of 5]

I have read many books about wine, and this is the one I have liked the best. He brings us inside the plants and the souls of many small wineries in France and Italy and, in so doing, allows us to see the passion of the wine-makers. This is not a book about wineries with large scale production or those with the desire to make wine that "appeals" to the masses. Once finished, one likely will try to hunt down wines made by the vintners he discusses.

[Jeremiah · Rating 3 out of 5]

Reflections was a fond journey upon memory lane. As someone new to the wine world I found it to be a refreshing narrative of relationship and history. The book is full of poignant language revolving around food and wine which reads like poetry. At times, Neal Rosenthal gets caught up in naming of years of wine and quite frankly, the condescending aspects of wine culture. But, all in all, an enjoyable, quick read.

[Mary · Rating 4 out of 5]

Travel, wine, people, business. This has a bit of everything and is well written. Each chapter is a little escape to a different place. I am enjoying this one immensely. He may be a bit immodest about his talents, but it does make good reading.

[Carrie · Rating 4 out of 5]

I was eager to read Rosenthal's book after taking a wine tasting class with him recently, and the book didn't disappoint. He's sometimes absurdly full of himself, but for good reason, and I'm now even more of a devotee to his style of wines (grower-produced, unfiltered, evocative of terroir).

[Emma Grayson]

book 10
similar adventures to kermit lynch book but also discusses time in italy and CA, he complains more about the people and negative stories though so i didn’t love this book but his anecdotes on loyalty gave me respect for this importer

[Michelle · Rating 2 out of 5]

I was looking forward to reading this but it was too preachy for me.

[Joelle · Rating 4 out of 5]

It's taking me a bit to get into this one. A little drier than most...

[Darcy Dahl · Rating 5 out of 5]

Preaching to the choir. "amen"

[Chris · Rating 3 out of 5]

He is very silly, and I am enjoying the book. Mostly I like to drink his wines.

[Phil · Rating 3 out of 5]

Good read on traveling through France and dealing with the wineries, looking for the best to import. can be a bit dy in spots, but overal OK. 88 points on the Wine Spectator scale.

[Michele · Rating 3 out of 5]

wine book club! i got to meet him last week and he was lovely and wine snobbish in all the right ways.

[Cara · Rating 4 out of 5]

Very interesting if you have a little background in wine.