What do you think?
Rate this book
Savage Arena
Joe Tasker lies, struck down by a tooth abscess, in a damp, bug-infested room in the Himalaya, wondering if he will be well enough to climb Dunagiri , his first venture to the 'big' mountains. He is there with Dick Renshaw to attempt to make a two-man ascent of the Peak - one of the first true alpine-style expeditions to the Greater Ranges; an attempt that forms part of this tale of adventure in the savage vertical arena of hostile mountains.Joe Tasker was one of Britain's foremost mountaineers. A pioneer of lightweight mountaineering and a superbly gifted writer, in Savage Arena he vividly describes his participation in the first British winter ascent of the North Face of the Eiger ; his first ascent of the West Wall of Changabang with Peter Boardman - considered to be a preposterous plan by the established climbing world; the first ascent of the North Ridge of Kangchenjunga ; and his two unsuccessful attempts to climb K2 , the second highest mountain in the world.This is a story of single-minded determination, strength and courage in a pursuit which owes much of its value and compulsion to the risks entailed - risks which often stimulate superlative performances. It is also a story of the stresses, strains and tensions of living in constant anxiety, often with only one other person, for long periods in which one is never far from moments of terror, and of the close and vital human relationships which spring from those circumstances. It is a moving, exciting and inspirational book about the adventuring spirit which seeks endless new climbing challenges to face, alluring problems to solve and difficulties to overcome, for it is not reaching the summit which is important, but the journey to it.
272 pages, Paperback
First published October 1, 1982
66 people are currently reading
461 people want to read
Ratings & Reviews
Friends & Following
Create a free account to discover what your friends think of this book!
Community Reviews
Displaying 1 - 30 of 53 reviews
April 2, 2022
I thought this one was going to be a bore from the 1st chapter, the sort of book that lists out the technical challenges of climbing and routes followed, i.e. for climbing purists only. There is some of that, acting as a backdrop to the true gift of this book, which is its focus on the human aspects of climbing - the camaraderie, the inner self-doubts, the petty squabbles that assume monumental importance under severe duress at altitude which disappear downhill and even the importance of small comforts in such environments: a hot cup of tea, a bit of chocolate, half a book to read or a Pink Floyd cassette to listen to.
Tasker also tried to put his finger on the 'why' of doing such things and fails to break it down, but with every success or failure knows he needs to go again, something I readily identify in my own small way with trekking.
A brilliant book to be thoroughly recommended for anyone interested in the great outdoors.
Tasker also tried to put his finger on the 'why' of doing such things and fails to break it down, but with every success or failure knows he needs to go again, something I readily identify in my own small way with trekking.
A brilliant book to be thoroughly recommended for anyone interested in the great outdoors.
October 9, 2020
This is the best book about mountaineering I have read so far, and I have read many of them. I don't know if Joe had a phenomenal memory or took a lot of notes or what, but he really goes into detail describing the times leading up to his expeditions as well as his efforts on the climbs themselves.
This book comes the closest I have seen to explaining the driving force that drives serious climbers to dangerous mountains. Tasker and his climbing partners don't just seek out tall mountains, they look to push the envelope with the hardest routes, or a winter climb instead of a summer one, or some other twist to challenge themselves to the nth degree.
He also is frank about his relationship to his climbing partners, the bickering at one moment and feelings of brotherly love at the next, the trust that has to exist with this two-man freestyle alpine climbing. I can see why they named a mountaineering literature prize after Tasker and his climbing partner Peter Boardman. I hardly think any Boardman/Tasker prize winner could be better than this gem.
We didn't just lose a great climber when he perished on Everest, we lost a great adventure writer also.
This book comes the closest I have seen to explaining the driving force that drives serious climbers to dangerous mountains. Tasker and his climbing partners don't just seek out tall mountains, they look to push the envelope with the hardest routes, or a winter climb instead of a summer one, or some other twist to challenge themselves to the nth degree.
He also is frank about his relationship to his climbing partners, the bickering at one moment and feelings of brotherly love at the next, the trust that has to exist with this two-man freestyle alpine climbing. I can see why they named a mountaineering literature prize after Tasker and his climbing partner Peter Boardman. I hardly think any Boardman/Tasker prize winner could be better than this gem.
We didn't just lose a great climber when he perished on Everest, we lost a great adventure writer also.
February 6, 2021
I think people are turned off by the title - it makes it sound like bad ultra violent airport-fiction.
this is one of the most elegantly written and compelling mountaineering books, and as good as it is long. Joe tasker with his quasi-boyfriend and fellow literary-legend pete boardman went off on the ill-fated north-northwest ridge everest expedition (where they disappeared below the summit) the day after joe handed in the manuscript for this book. It remains an incredible testament to his writing capabilities and unmatched brilliance as a climber.
this is one of the most elegantly written and compelling mountaineering books, and as good as it is long. Joe tasker with his quasi-boyfriend and fellow literary-legend pete boardman went off on the ill-fated north-northwest ridge everest expedition (where they disappeared below the summit) the day after joe handed in the manuscript for this book. It remains an incredible testament to his writing capabilities and unmatched brilliance as a climber.
June 1, 2021
Точно това исках да прочета-детайлите,малките неща,да проследя всяка стъпка,вътрешната борба редом с чисто физическата борба.И описание на цялата емоция,вървяща с този всепоглъщащ стремеж към върховете.
March 9, 2021
Savage Arena and The Shining Mountain
Joe Tasker and Peter Boardman's books were staples of my early climbing reading and are both fantastic examples of mountaineering literature. Indeed, the world lost not just two of the leading exponents of small expeditions and very technical high altitude climbs but also two excellent authors.
Ironically, they are probably now best known for the mountain literature award which has become an abiding legacy, but their books and climbs deserve a big place in mountaineering history.
My history with their books falls into three sections. As a youngish climber just starting out I read them avidly. During a period of deep depression, books of any genre but especially mountain related became a staple that helped keep the black dog at bay. Now that Vertebrate Publishing have begun reprinting Pete and Joe’s books has led to the third stage, possibly more relaxed and thoughtful reading but nice to return to books that seem like old friends.
Back in 2015-2016 I spent a lot of time in and around the Cuillin. My existence was a very binary one. Either flat out physical endeavour, long hill days if the weather was even half decent or slothful days of inactivity if the forecast was poor. Good days were spent exploring the ridge, researching for the future guide book, taking photos. Long, exhausting days, the hard physicality hopefully ensuring sleep and an escape from a reality that was dark and forboding.
Bad weather meant being holed up for days on end either in the tent or car. Reading matter was always at a premium and I can remember scouring charity shops for cheap books and returning from Portree with a pile of reading material including “Savage Arena.” I think I read it cover to cover in one go, parked up in the Square Mile Car Park just before the bend down to the Fairy Pools. That time I think I was pretty much ensconced in the trusty Skoda for almost 36 hours whilst rain then snow fell. It was a time of listening to the radio, endless brews, opening windows to try and reduce the condensation. Perhaps not quite the perfect reading environment but it seemed a fitting place to devour “Savage Arena” which had so long ago provided much inspiration.
I don’t know what happened to the charity shop “Savage Arena” nor it’s predecessor but I recently got a copy of the new paperback reprint.
They are two very different books, Pete’s just covering their first ascent of the west wall of Changabang wheras Joe’s includes this but also classic chapters on the north face of the Eiger in winter, Dunagiri and an epic on K2. There’s pros and con s to each book. On the whole I prefer the writing of Joe but like the extra detail of Pete since his book is simply devoted to a single expedition.
Right from the start, Joe’s book rekindled good memories and distinct sentences were instantly recalled. Typical is, “we began to prefer the shadowy north faces of the mountains, thinking we could climb these precipices of ice coated rocks whilst we were young and save the more pleasant walls of sun warmed granite and limestone for later years.” Sadly this wasn’t to be and Joe delivered the manuscript of his book to the publishers just prior to departing for Everest in 1982. Joe and Pete were last seen at 27,000 feet making a bid for the summit.
It’s a very honest and open book. After the death of Nick Estcourt on K2 and a failed ascent of Nuptse with Doug Scott, Joe ponders motivation; “this second failure in a matter of months left me disillusioned and dissatisfied. I wondered if we did not have sufficient motivation….if we had really tried hard enough and whether other things were drawing us back.”
The book ends with an epic avalanche on K2 but, for me, some of the best written bits are not the avalanche itself but things I can more readily relate to. Thus, “I borrowed a book called Shogun and became absorbed in it’s 1,200 pages…perfect escapist reading.” Or, “I scribbled a letter to my girlfriend Maria and all that came out was the raw pain. I could not find words to pretend. ‘Hope to be home soon,’ I finished. A deceit so she would not worry.”
Savage Arena does a great job trying to explain climbers’ obsession with, higher mountains, harder routes, lighter expeditions. It’s all about pushing the, so called envelope but the book also explores relationships between climbing partners, personal relationships outside of climbing and the conflict between the two.
Whilst Pete wrote a whole book about the west wall of Changabang, it was Joe’s idea and original concept. Having survived a truly epic ascent of Dunagiri with Dick Renshaw, Joe was sitting down and “I drank some liquid for the first time in four days…I would want one picture of the view just as a reminder of the ordeal I had endured. The glacier, spread about before me like a white desert, was peopled by my imagination and over it hung the massive West Wall of Changabang, a great cinema screen which would never have figures on it.”
Every generation of climbers seemingly raises the bar, pushes things a quantum leap forward but Changabang genuinely was a huge leap of faith. Up until mountaineering had been very much in the large expedition style typified by the logistical masterpieces of Chris Bonnington. Chris described Joe and Pete’s plan as “preposterous….. if you do get up, it’ll be the hardest route in the Himalayas.”
Pete had studies English at Nottingham University and this shows in his writing which is perhaps a bit more polished than Joe’s. This was describing his summit success on Everest as part of Bonnington’s expedition but could well be for a recent commercial trip; “on Everest, the summit day had been presented to me by a large systematised expedition of over a hundred people. During the rest of the time on the mountain, I had been just part of the vertically integrated crowd control, waiting for the leader’s call to slot me into my next allocated position.”
The book tells the stories warts and all and provides great insights into the two partners and their pioneering route in a new ultra light weight style. It’s a very powerful book and like Joe’s book survives the test of time. In many ways Shining Mountain paved the way for a new type of mountaineering literature. It tells a gripping story, paints the characters and the epics, very much the human side of the adventure. Previous books had largely been confined to dry facts, diagrams and tables of kit used, sponsors and analytical data enough to satisfy any accountant. From now on the protagonists and the climbing take centre stage. A few favourite quotes give a real idea of their ordeal on Changabang. “Joe’s precise, orderly approach to bivouacking and equipment made me feel muddled and clumsy like a small boy told off for touching in a china shop. Some people judge mountaineers by their speed and by the difficulty of the rock they can climb. But on Changabang the real test was more how efficiently you could put a brew on, warm your fingers or take your boots off.”
The descriptions of the climbing are superb and will resonate with any alpinist. “I was filled with urgency and determined to stay in the sun until I reached the crest. It was an invented game to pluck us from the grasp of darkness. …the gully was sheltered and, as I churned upwards with my feet, the powder snow poured straight down. The air was becoming colder but the light was warm and red. The sun was pushing me upwards as if I were soaring on particles of solar light.”
Whilst the multi day ascent is a real sufferfest, the descent is a truly harrowing experience and one I won’t spoil for potential readers.
The new Vertebrate reprints means some of the best mountaineering literature is now easily available to many readers. The only downside, I’d say, is that the original volumes had maps and diagrams which enabled the reader to relate the writing to reality.
To me, these are two of the best ever works of mountaineering literature and complement each other well. Even just the titles are really special and both capture elements of the mountaineering addiction. “Savage Arena” well describes our mountain playground, more especially the alps and greater ranges. “Shining Mountain” paints a picture of allure of a peak to be summited.
Joe Tasker and Peter Boardman's books were staples of my early climbing reading and are both fantastic examples of mountaineering literature. Indeed, the world lost not just two of the leading exponents of small expeditions and very technical high altitude climbs but also two excellent authors.
Ironically, they are probably now best known for the mountain literature award which has become an abiding legacy, but their books and climbs deserve a big place in mountaineering history.
My history with their books falls into three sections. As a youngish climber just starting out I read them avidly. During a period of deep depression, books of any genre but especially mountain related became a staple that helped keep the black dog at bay. Now that Vertebrate Publishing have begun reprinting Pete and Joe’s books has led to the third stage, possibly more relaxed and thoughtful reading but nice to return to books that seem like old friends.
Back in 2015-2016 I spent a lot of time in and around the Cuillin. My existence was a very binary one. Either flat out physical endeavour, long hill days if the weather was even half decent or slothful days of inactivity if the forecast was poor. Good days were spent exploring the ridge, researching for the future guide book, taking photos. Long, exhausting days, the hard physicality hopefully ensuring sleep and an escape from a reality that was dark and forboding.
Bad weather meant being holed up for days on end either in the tent or car. Reading matter was always at a premium and I can remember scouring charity shops for cheap books and returning from Portree with a pile of reading material including “Savage Arena.” I think I read it cover to cover in one go, parked up in the Square Mile Car Park just before the bend down to the Fairy Pools. That time I think I was pretty much ensconced in the trusty Skoda for almost 36 hours whilst rain then snow fell. It was a time of listening to the radio, endless brews, opening windows to try and reduce the condensation. Perhaps not quite the perfect reading environment but it seemed a fitting place to devour “Savage Arena” which had so long ago provided much inspiration.
I don’t know what happened to the charity shop “Savage Arena” nor it’s predecessor but I recently got a copy of the new paperback reprint.
They are two very different books, Pete’s just covering their first ascent of the west wall of Changabang wheras Joe’s includes this but also classic chapters on the north face of the Eiger in winter, Dunagiri and an epic on K2. There’s pros and con s to each book. On the whole I prefer the writing of Joe but like the extra detail of Pete since his book is simply devoted to a single expedition.
Right from the start, Joe’s book rekindled good memories and distinct sentences were instantly recalled. Typical is, “we began to prefer the shadowy north faces of the mountains, thinking we could climb these precipices of ice coated rocks whilst we were young and save the more pleasant walls of sun warmed granite and limestone for later years.” Sadly this wasn’t to be and Joe delivered the manuscript of his book to the publishers just prior to departing for Everest in 1982. Joe and Pete were last seen at 27,000 feet making a bid for the summit.
It’s a very honest and open book. After the death of Nick Estcourt on K2 and a failed ascent of Nuptse with Doug Scott, Joe ponders motivation; “this second failure in a matter of months left me disillusioned and dissatisfied. I wondered if we did not have sufficient motivation….if we had really tried hard enough and whether other things were drawing us back.”
The book ends with an epic avalanche on K2 but, for me, some of the best written bits are not the avalanche itself but things I can more readily relate to. Thus, “I borrowed a book called Shogun and became absorbed in it’s 1,200 pages…perfect escapist reading.” Or, “I scribbled a letter to my girlfriend Maria and all that came out was the raw pain. I could not find words to pretend. ‘Hope to be home soon,’ I finished. A deceit so she would not worry.”
Savage Arena does a great job trying to explain climbers’ obsession with, higher mountains, harder routes, lighter expeditions. It’s all about pushing the, so called envelope but the book also explores relationships between climbing partners, personal relationships outside of climbing and the conflict between the two.
Whilst Pete wrote a whole book about the west wall of Changabang, it was Joe’s idea and original concept. Having survived a truly epic ascent of Dunagiri with Dick Renshaw, Joe was sitting down and “I drank some liquid for the first time in four days…I would want one picture of the view just as a reminder of the ordeal I had endured. The glacier, spread about before me like a white desert, was peopled by my imagination and over it hung the massive West Wall of Changabang, a great cinema screen which would never have figures on it.”
Every generation of climbers seemingly raises the bar, pushes things a quantum leap forward but Changabang genuinely was a huge leap of faith. Up until mountaineering had been very much in the large expedition style typified by the logistical masterpieces of Chris Bonnington. Chris described Joe and Pete’s plan as “preposterous….. if you do get up, it’ll be the hardest route in the Himalayas.”
Pete had studies English at Nottingham University and this shows in his writing which is perhaps a bit more polished than Joe’s. This was describing his summit success on Everest as part of Bonnington’s expedition but could well be for a recent commercial trip; “on Everest, the summit day had been presented to me by a large systematised expedition of over a hundred people. During the rest of the time on the mountain, I had been just part of the vertically integrated crowd control, waiting for the leader’s call to slot me into my next allocated position.”
The book tells the stories warts and all and provides great insights into the two partners and their pioneering route in a new ultra light weight style. It’s a very powerful book and like Joe’s book survives the test of time. In many ways Shining Mountain paved the way for a new type of mountaineering literature. It tells a gripping story, paints the characters and the epics, very much the human side of the adventure. Previous books had largely been confined to dry facts, diagrams and tables of kit used, sponsors and analytical data enough to satisfy any accountant. From now on the protagonists and the climbing take centre stage. A few favourite quotes give a real idea of their ordeal on Changabang. “Joe’s precise, orderly approach to bivouacking and equipment made me feel muddled and clumsy like a small boy told off for touching in a china shop. Some people judge mountaineers by their speed and by the difficulty of the rock they can climb. But on Changabang the real test was more how efficiently you could put a brew on, warm your fingers or take your boots off.”
The descriptions of the climbing are superb and will resonate with any alpinist. “I was filled with urgency and determined to stay in the sun until I reached the crest. It was an invented game to pluck us from the grasp of darkness. …the gully was sheltered and, as I churned upwards with my feet, the powder snow poured straight down. The air was becoming colder but the light was warm and red. The sun was pushing me upwards as if I were soaring on particles of solar light.”
Whilst the multi day ascent is a real sufferfest, the descent is a truly harrowing experience and one I won’t spoil for potential readers.
The new Vertebrate reprints means some of the best mountaineering literature is now easily available to many readers. The only downside, I’d say, is that the original volumes had maps and diagrams which enabled the reader to relate the writing to reality.
To me, these are two of the best ever works of mountaineering literature and complement each other well. Even just the titles are really special and both capture elements of the mountaineering addiction. “Savage Arena” well describes our mountain playground, more especially the alps and greater ranges. “Shining Mountain” paints a picture of allure of a peak to be summited.
January 25, 2026
A wonderful "memoir" of the inner feelings, doubts, fears and hopes, Joe Tasker experiences when he plans and actually goes on his climbs. A seemingly very honest description of his life in and on the mountains. Never mired in technical details, it is more about emotions and observations about his fellow climbers. And ok, the unwavering urge and need to climb and reach the summit. The all pervading passion. Obsessive probably.
And Tasker is well aware of that. Continuously he questions the purpose and meaning of climbing.
"The mountains are a testing ground where one is confronted by challenges which not only demand all his skill in meeting them but make him face up to his own motivation, perseverence and resilience when danger, hardship and fatigue all conspire to turn him back from his chosen objective."
"Few can explain the compulsive fascination"
In Dick Renshaw, Joe found a climbing partner just as driven as he. And later on he finds in Peter Boardman a similar attitude in mind.
Six essays of climbs. Book marked by contemplations of why and how he came to be a mountaineer.
Below a rather extensive review of these climbs. The above sums up what it is all about.
Two. It is forbidden to Walk on the Track. A winter ascent of the Eiger North Face. February 1975.
Joe talks about the doubts he has, to go up again after a first failed attempt. Weather forced them down early in the first attempt.
But they go. 6 days on the face. Having read Heinrich Harrer's book about the first succesful climb of the North Face in 1938: The White Spider and also Lionel Terray's book with a chapter of the second succesful climb in 1947: Conquistadors of the Useless I knew the route and the difficulties involved. Those climbs were in the summer. This one in the winter, which is so much more difficult.
A gripping read!
Three. It could be worse. Dunagiri(23,182ft, 7.066m). 1975.
"They wanted the uncertainty of a difficult route."(p.55).
Their first climb in the Himalaya's. Soon they were already higher than the highest mountains in Europe, higher than they had ever been, with still 5000 feet to go to the summit.
Tasker is very well aware that mountaineering is "arduous, uncomfortable, and painful"
Departure by car: Monday August 1975. From England, via Istanbul, Tehran, Iran (revolution in 1979), Afganistan (since late 70s extensive warfare), Pakistan into India, to Delhi. And from there, north, to Dunagiri.
17 pages of preparations and travel to basecamp. 24 pages for the climb and 10 pages for the way back. This gives a good insight that it was not easy in those days to get to the high peaks Especially on a low budget.
The summit push proved to be a harrowing experience. They brought food and fuel for a week. But it took them 10 days.
Pushing to the summit knowing they had not enough food and no fuel (which means, no water from snow). The ascent took longer than they had planned for.
After a short summit break they went down.
With no water and barely any food they were in a delerious state. As in a dream they decended.
It's amazing the hardships they endured and stil kept on going on further expeditions.
Four. Figures on a Screen.
the West Wall of Changabang (22,520ft, 6.864m). 1976.
"A preposterous. idea and they would not stand a chance"(p.93).
Again Joe is plagued by doubts and self-questioning; the life he is leading seemed empty and pointless without anyone to share it with. Of course he still goes.
Having read Peter Boardman's book;
The Shining Mountain: Two man on Changabang's West Wall I was curious what Joe Tasker would write about it.
It's the first pairing up of Joe and Pete. Tempers flare as they get used to esch other.
Tasker notes that it is not easy living so close together, ones life dependant upon the other. Tempers have to be kept in check.
A riveting account of an impossible climb.
Afterwards, for Joe, it's difficult to go back to normal life. For two years he was absorbed with climbing three mountains. All succesful. But now what?
Something harder, bigger?
He puts his will and motivation to climb as follows: "I was certain that I did not want to die but I knew that the risk in climbing gave it its value. The sensation of being stretched to the limit mentally and physically was what gave me satisfaction..."
As far as their relationship goes, this climb forged a bond for the rest of their (short) life.
They would go on many climbs together, till the end...
Five. "Lets Draw Matchsticks"
K2. (28,251ft, 8611). 1978.
Tasker's first big expedition style climb with renowned Mountaineers. He does not consider himself in their league. But we know he really is there already. He expresses his doubts while preparing for the trip, during the trek to basecamp.
This would not be a happy climb. Disaster struck and they decided to abandon their attempt on K2. This chapter ends with the resolve to come back. To try again. Showing their dedication to the mountains. Their way of life.
Six. In the Treasure House of the Great Snow.
Kangchenjunga. Third highest mountain.
28,169ft, 8.586m.
1979: The third ascent on 16 May, and the first without oxygen, establishing a new route on the North Ridge.
Now we're back to a smaller expidition. Four members among which is Peter Boardman. Who wrote about this very climb in his book Sacred Summits
(frequently I reread passages to see how Boardman experienced certain episodes)
Joe has a very personal and honest approach in recounting his expeditions. We are privy to his emotions, doubts and fears as he climbs higher and higher. He is quite philosophical about the meaning and purpose of climbing: "I no longer knew what the motivation was which would enable me to put one foot in front of the other when there was only pain and shortage of air and no fun or enjoyment."
But he goes on.
It took them two weeks to climb the steep wall to the North Ridge; this was Camp 3, at 22,500ft. To the summit it was ca. 5700ft more. (Basecamp was at ca. 16,800ft)
And on they go. After storm delays they finally set out for the summit on May 15. 1,5 months after reaching base camp they finally are ready for the final push.
The last push to the summit takes forever. At 4pm they are 300ft ftom the summit a they know they will not make it back before dark to their closest camp. Here is when summit fever kicks in: "But the altitude or ambition or the innate drive which had borne us so far precluded rational decisions."
They stayed on the summit for 45 minutes and then returned. "Darkness covered the mountain and the snow started."
Peter Boardman described summit feelings as follows: "their lure endures for ever and their is no escape, for summits match dreams."
Seven. "Apocalypse"
K2. (28,251ft, 8611). 1980.
Another attemp. It's never enough. Always further and more difficult. In his own words: "The ascent [of Kangchenjunga] might not have brought peace of mind but it did bring confidence to go on further, to take on something new and more difficult."
And to put it another way, the journey is the most important: "...as a mountaineer the essence of life is in the struggle, the contest against great odds."
So it's K2 again!
This proved to be an immense struggle. They reached 26,500ft when disaster struck. An avalange during the night in camp 6 forced them to go back. A three day struggle in a snowstorm followed. They barely made it down.
Tasker admits that the route was extra ordinarily difficult. So he gave those early mountaineers their due. They followed the route that was used by the first climbers: the Abruzzi Ridge.
(for an in depth history of the attempts and climbs of K2, see K2. Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain
In spite of these hardships they try a second time, but severe weather once again thwarted their attempt. And now they decide to go home.
Postscript
No regrets though. They knew they had tried to the utmost. And whatever had been lacking; it was not anything in themselves. They knew they would try again: "We had done everything we possibly could to climb it. We had pushed ourselves to the limit mentally and physically and stayed at that limit for so long that we scarcely had strength left to drag ourselves back to normal life."
And again he stipulates that the journey is more important than reaching the summit. It was an extra ordinary experience.
It is really clear that these guys are addicted: "visiting the mountains had come to be a way of life."
Tasker smoothes this over as follows: "...we were only taking risks because the end we hoped to reach seemed worthwhile - reaching the top ... purely by our own efforts ...the risks are only run because one believes the correct calculation has been made...".
And, yes. They are highly accomplished. But still. Risk: Exposure to danger. Mountaineering is dangerous. This is all the more tragic, knowing that 2 years later Joe Tasker and Peter Boardman died on yet another unclimbed ridge. This time on Mnt Everest.
A fascinating read.
written: 1982.
Joe Tasker: 1948 - 1982
== Both Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker disappeared in 1982 on the then unclimbed North-East Ridge of Everest at 27,000ft.
They were last seen on May 17, during their summit attempt, at 9:00pm at the foot of the Second Pinnacle at 8,250m having been climbing for 14 hours.
And Tasker is well aware of that. Continuously he questions the purpose and meaning of climbing.
"The mountains are a testing ground where one is confronted by challenges which not only demand all his skill in meeting them but make him face up to his own motivation, perseverence and resilience when danger, hardship and fatigue all conspire to turn him back from his chosen objective."
"Few can explain the compulsive fascination"
In Dick Renshaw, Joe found a climbing partner just as driven as he. And later on he finds in Peter Boardman a similar attitude in mind.
Six essays of climbs. Book marked by contemplations of why and how he came to be a mountaineer.
Below a rather extensive review of these climbs. The above sums up what it is all about.
Two. It is forbidden to Walk on the Track. A winter ascent of the Eiger North Face. February 1975.
Joe talks about the doubts he has, to go up again after a first failed attempt. Weather forced them down early in the first attempt.
But they go. 6 days on the face. Having read Heinrich Harrer's book about the first succesful climb of the North Face in 1938: The White Spider and also Lionel Terray's book with a chapter of the second succesful climb in 1947: Conquistadors of the Useless I knew the route and the difficulties involved. Those climbs were in the summer. This one in the winter, which is so much more difficult.
A gripping read!
Three. It could be worse. Dunagiri(23,182ft, 7.066m). 1975.
"They wanted the uncertainty of a difficult route."(p.55).
Their first climb in the Himalaya's. Soon they were already higher than the highest mountains in Europe, higher than they had ever been, with still 5000 feet to go to the summit.
Tasker is very well aware that mountaineering is "arduous, uncomfortable, and painful"
Departure by car: Monday August 1975. From England, via Istanbul, Tehran, Iran (revolution in 1979), Afganistan (since late 70s extensive warfare), Pakistan into India, to Delhi. And from there, north, to Dunagiri.
17 pages of preparations and travel to basecamp. 24 pages for the climb and 10 pages for the way back. This gives a good insight that it was not easy in those days to get to the high peaks Especially on a low budget.
The summit push proved to be a harrowing experience. They brought food and fuel for a week. But it took them 10 days.
Pushing to the summit knowing they had not enough food and no fuel (which means, no water from snow). The ascent took longer than they had planned for.
After a short summit break they went down.
With no water and barely any food they were in a delerious state. As in a dream they decended.
It's amazing the hardships they endured and stil kept on going on further expeditions.
Four. Figures on a Screen.
the West Wall of Changabang (22,520ft, 6.864m). 1976.
"A preposterous. idea and they would not stand a chance"(p.93).
Again Joe is plagued by doubts and self-questioning; the life he is leading seemed empty and pointless without anyone to share it with. Of course he still goes.
Having read Peter Boardman's book;
The Shining Mountain: Two man on Changabang's West Wall I was curious what Joe Tasker would write about it.
It's the first pairing up of Joe and Pete. Tempers flare as they get used to esch other.
Tasker notes that it is not easy living so close together, ones life dependant upon the other. Tempers have to be kept in check.
A riveting account of an impossible climb.
Afterwards, for Joe, it's difficult to go back to normal life. For two years he was absorbed with climbing three mountains. All succesful. But now what?
Something harder, bigger?
He puts his will and motivation to climb as follows: "I was certain that I did not want to die but I knew that the risk in climbing gave it its value. The sensation of being stretched to the limit mentally and physically was what gave me satisfaction..."
As far as their relationship goes, this climb forged a bond for the rest of their (short) life.
They would go on many climbs together, till the end...
Five. "Lets Draw Matchsticks"
K2. (28,251ft, 8611). 1978.
Tasker's first big expedition style climb with renowned Mountaineers. He does not consider himself in their league. But we know he really is there already. He expresses his doubts while preparing for the trip, during the trek to basecamp.
This would not be a happy climb. Disaster struck and they decided to abandon their attempt on K2. This chapter ends with the resolve to come back. To try again. Showing their dedication to the mountains. Their way of life.
Six. In the Treasure House of the Great Snow.
Kangchenjunga. Third highest mountain.
28,169ft, 8.586m.
1979: The third ascent on 16 May, and the first without oxygen, establishing a new route on the North Ridge.
Now we're back to a smaller expidition. Four members among which is Peter Boardman. Who wrote about this very climb in his book Sacred Summits
(frequently I reread passages to see how Boardman experienced certain episodes)
Joe has a very personal and honest approach in recounting his expeditions. We are privy to his emotions, doubts and fears as he climbs higher and higher. He is quite philosophical about the meaning and purpose of climbing: "I no longer knew what the motivation was which would enable me to put one foot in front of the other when there was only pain and shortage of air and no fun or enjoyment."
But he goes on.
It took them two weeks to climb the steep wall to the North Ridge; this was Camp 3, at 22,500ft. To the summit it was ca. 5700ft more. (Basecamp was at ca. 16,800ft)
And on they go. After storm delays they finally set out for the summit on May 15. 1,5 months after reaching base camp they finally are ready for the final push.
The last push to the summit takes forever. At 4pm they are 300ft ftom the summit a they know they will not make it back before dark to their closest camp. Here is when summit fever kicks in: "But the altitude or ambition or the innate drive which had borne us so far precluded rational decisions."
They stayed on the summit for 45 minutes and then returned. "Darkness covered the mountain and the snow started."
Peter Boardman described summit feelings as follows: "their lure endures for ever and their is no escape, for summits match dreams."
Seven. "Apocalypse"
K2. (28,251ft, 8611). 1980.
Another attemp. It's never enough. Always further and more difficult. In his own words: "The ascent [of Kangchenjunga] might not have brought peace of mind but it did bring confidence to go on further, to take on something new and more difficult."
And to put it another way, the journey is the most important: "...as a mountaineer the essence of life is in the struggle, the contest against great odds."
So it's K2 again!
This proved to be an immense struggle. They reached 26,500ft when disaster struck. An avalange during the night in camp 6 forced them to go back. A three day struggle in a snowstorm followed. They barely made it down.
Tasker admits that the route was extra ordinarily difficult. So he gave those early mountaineers their due. They followed the route that was used by the first climbers: the Abruzzi Ridge.
(for an in depth history of the attempts and climbs of K2, see K2. Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain
In spite of these hardships they try a second time, but severe weather once again thwarted their attempt. And now they decide to go home.
Postscript
No regrets though. They knew they had tried to the utmost. And whatever had been lacking; it was not anything in themselves. They knew they would try again: "We had done everything we possibly could to climb it. We had pushed ourselves to the limit mentally and physically and stayed at that limit for so long that we scarcely had strength left to drag ourselves back to normal life."
And again he stipulates that the journey is more important than reaching the summit. It was an extra ordinary experience.
It is really clear that these guys are addicted: "visiting the mountains had come to be a way of life."
Tasker smoothes this over as follows: "...we were only taking risks because the end we hoped to reach seemed worthwhile - reaching the top ... purely by our own efforts ...the risks are only run because one believes the correct calculation has been made...".
And, yes. They are highly accomplished. But still. Risk: Exposure to danger. Mountaineering is dangerous. This is all the more tragic, knowing that 2 years later Joe Tasker and Peter Boardman died on yet another unclimbed ridge. This time on Mnt Everest.
A fascinating read.
written: 1982.
Joe Tasker: 1948 - 1982
== Both Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker disappeared in 1982 on the then unclimbed North-East Ridge of Everest at 27,000ft.
They were last seen on May 17, during their summit attempt, at 9:00pm at the foot of the Second Pinnacle at 8,250m having been climbing for 14 hours.
May 2, 2020
Though not as good (in my humble opinion) as his mate Peter Boardman’s The Shining Mountain, Joe Tasker’s Savage Arena is a compelling memoir retracing the key steps of an alpinist who spent over two decades at the cutting edge of the sport.
A pioneer of lightweight techniques brought to the greater ranges, one of Mr. Tasker’s greatest achievement was of course the first ascent of the west face of Changabang (with Mr. Boardman.)
In this book he recounts some of his most prodigious feats and shows us a glimpse of the man behind the summits.
Many good tales in here that are well worth a read!
A pioneer of lightweight techniques brought to the greater ranges, one of Mr. Tasker’s greatest achievement was of course the first ascent of the west face of Changabang (with Mr. Boardman.)
In this book he recounts some of his most prodigious feats and shows us a glimpse of the man behind the summits.
Many good tales in here that are well worth a read!
August 30, 2016
What a great mountaineering book... so many tight spots that are stressful to read... drop offs all around... Joe climbs some of the tallest mountains in the world in this book... before his death on the everest climb some years later after this book takes place.
March 5, 2017
For those who wonder why anyone would want to suffer the pain and misery of going up mountains, this is the book to read.
December 17, 2017
Read a few years ago and no longer remember except that it was largely enthralling.
February 21, 2024
Не ми хареса толкова, колкото предишните книги в жанра, но пак ме пренесе на височината, на която исках да бъда. Езикът беше по-техничен за вкуса ми, но предполагам, че е абсолютно точен и разбран за хората, които по-професионално се занимават с планинарство. Нали се води почти като наръчник за тях :)
September 11, 2014
In this book, Tasker tells the story of 5 of his mountaineering exploits. From his youthful forays in the Alps, to his first attempts in the Himalayas, up to his two attempts in K2 and Kangchenjunga.
All the accounts are written with great detail, and you feel that Tasker is holding nothing back. He's honest with his impressions of his fellow climbers, the area he's in, and his own anxieties and joys during the trips. I especially enjoyed the early parts of the book as it showed the vulnerable side of beginning mountaineering, the fear and anxieties that are attached to that. As the book progresses, you get a feel for how he, and his regular climbing companions become more and more confident in their abilities and fear manifests itself in different ways. It moves from a fear of lacking technical ability, or the physiology to attempt a climb that goes into the "death-zone" (not mentioned in this book, but a regular theme in similar ones so I'm going to use it in this review!) and progresses to a fear of avalanches, the cold ruthlessness of the place they have found themselves in.
The highlight of the book is the last chapter with Tasker and Pete Boardmans second attempt to climb K2. The psychological anguish but resulting Dostoevskyian strengthening after the turmoil is inspiring.
I recommend the book for fans of Mountaineering literature and readers interested in a down-to-earth account of extreme mountaineering.
All the accounts are written with great detail, and you feel that Tasker is holding nothing back. He's honest with his impressions of his fellow climbers, the area he's in, and his own anxieties and joys during the trips. I especially enjoyed the early parts of the book as it showed the vulnerable side of beginning mountaineering, the fear and anxieties that are attached to that. As the book progresses, you get a feel for how he, and his regular climbing companions become more and more confident in their abilities and fear manifests itself in different ways. It moves from a fear of lacking technical ability, or the physiology to attempt a climb that goes into the "death-zone" (not mentioned in this book, but a regular theme in similar ones so I'm going to use it in this review!) and progresses to a fear of avalanches, the cold ruthlessness of the place they have found themselves in.
The highlight of the book is the last chapter with Tasker and Pete Boardmans second attempt to climb K2. The psychological anguish but resulting Dostoevskyian strengthening after the turmoil is inspiring.
I recommend the book for fans of Mountaineering literature and readers interested in a down-to-earth account of extreme mountaineering.
June 21, 2021
Still one of the greatest mountaineering books ever written, all the more poignant for being posthumous. It's the book that first fired my imagination for the mountains.
The climbs that Tasker tackles (with a variety of "great names" from British muntaineering of the era) gradually grow in severity – although starting with the north face of the Eiger is hardly a normal progression! His honesty in describing his feelings is remarkable, not least because they're generally feelings of technical and emotional inadequacy. These are set amid quite epic descriptions of climbing challenges and the (often grim) reality of being on expeditions in the Himalayas.
Tasker often compares his own emotional state to that of his companions, notably the notoriously self-contained Dick Renshaw and equally notoriously voluble Doug Scott. It's hard to know from this book what they would have thought of him: he gives the impression of being rather inscrutable himself (an impression that Chris Bonnington reinforces in his forward). It's perhaps a trait that served him well on the walls when the going got especially tough, as it did frequently. He finds himself repeatedly questioning his motivations for climbing without reaching too much of a conclusion. He seems simply to accept it: it's what he does, there doesn't have to be a reason, and the dangers and isolation are simply part of the cost. It never feels over-examined.
The climbs that Tasker tackles (with a variety of "great names" from British muntaineering of the era) gradually grow in severity – although starting with the north face of the Eiger is hardly a normal progression! His honesty in describing his feelings is remarkable, not least because they're generally feelings of technical and emotional inadequacy. These are set amid quite epic descriptions of climbing challenges and the (often grim) reality of being on expeditions in the Himalayas.
Tasker often compares his own emotional state to that of his companions, notably the notoriously self-contained Dick Renshaw and equally notoriously voluble Doug Scott. It's hard to know from this book what they would have thought of him: he gives the impression of being rather inscrutable himself (an impression that Chris Bonnington reinforces in his forward). It's perhaps a trait that served him well on the walls when the going got especially tough, as it did frequently. He finds himself repeatedly questioning his motivations for climbing without reaching too much of a conclusion. He seems simply to accept it: it's what he does, there doesn't have to be a reason, and the dangers and isolation are simply part of the cost. It never feels over-examined.
December 5, 2019
The Greatest Mountaineering Book Ever.
Savage Arena by Joe Tasker is widely acknowledged as one of the greatest books ever written about mountaineering. Why is this the case?
Firstly it is an accessible read for people unfamiliar with climbing, while never dumbing down the activity to make it understandable. The quality of the writing is of an extremely high standard, rarely seen in the genre. The book perfectly captures the height of British alpine climbing in the greater ranges, spanning the epoch from the first British ascent of Everest, to essentially the tragedy on that mountain in 82. The book documents several key expeditions of this era, Dunagiri, Changabang, Kangchenjunga and K2. Revealing in honest detail what game these men were playing.
This period of mountaineering is over, hard new routes on the highest mountains, yet this book has stood the test of time and remains essential reading.
Savage Arena by Joe Tasker is widely acknowledged as one of the greatest books ever written about mountaineering. Why is this the case?
Firstly it is an accessible read for people unfamiliar with climbing, while never dumbing down the activity to make it understandable. The quality of the writing is of an extremely high standard, rarely seen in the genre. The book perfectly captures the height of British alpine climbing in the greater ranges, spanning the epoch from the first British ascent of Everest, to essentially the tragedy on that mountain in 82. The book documents several key expeditions of this era, Dunagiri, Changabang, Kangchenjunga and K2. Revealing in honest detail what game these men were playing.
This period of mountaineering is over, hard new routes on the highest mountains, yet this book has stood the test of time and remains essential reading.
February 23, 2021
Stunning. I've read this a number of times and it never fails to move me. The poignancy of Tasker handing in the manuscript the day before he headed off on the last, fatal exped only heightens the emotion. We were robbed not only of a potentially era- defining mountaineer but Tasker was well on the way to being one of the greatest writers our community has produced. It's hard to separate this from Boardmans 'The Shining Mountain' but taken together they are the greatest books about, by or for mountaineers written to date.
September 15, 2022
By far one of the best memoirs from a remarkable mountaineer. All his doubts and uncertainties of life come through in his writing. Although his death on Everest in 1982 wasn't unexpected, had he lived one wonders how he would have lived the remaining of his life. A fascinating all too brief glimpse into the inner thoughts and feelings of a true ascetic.
September 24, 2014
I've read a lot of mountaineering books and this book, more than any I've read, conveys the massive amounts of mental fortitude required to climb these mountains. There were times I was dumbstruck at these climbers' abilities to push through physical and mental pain. This is in the upper echelon of mountaineering books for me.
July 20, 2016
Joe Tasker does an excellent job of describing the ups and downs of mountaineering and the emotions that accompany success and failure, friendship and animosity, hardship and reward on the high peaks. While, (as with most mountaineering books I've read), the writing style, prose, and grammar leave something to be desired, the story told is as good as any.
February 19, 2015
I read this as part of the Boardman Tasker Omnibus, which is the definitive compilation of the few but powerful works by two of the best writer-mountaineers in history. Here is the link to the review for the magnum opus.
January 27, 2017
A true classic
Joe is an amazing but serious writer its hard not to feel the tugs at your heart knowing he was gone so soon after. It would be amazing to have seen what this incredible mountaineer would have accomplished if he hadn't of been taken so young.
Joe is an amazing but serious writer its hard not to feel the tugs at your heart knowing he was gone so soon after. It would be amazing to have seen what this incredible mountaineer would have accomplished if he hadn't of been taken so young.
December 25, 2019
Incredible. I thought after Krakauer’s “Into thin air” i won’t be able to fall in love with a book on alpinism, but Joe Tasker proves to be not only a notable alpinist but also amazing writer. Looking forward to reading his other book “Everest the cruel way”
July 30, 2011
If you are a big mountain climber you will like this book. The stories are exciting and it is interesting to be on the inside of how big mountains are climbed. The writing is a little dry.
May 1, 2013
One of the best books of it's ilk that I have read.
January 10, 2014
Well written
July 7, 2018
Several excellent climbing stories. Good reading.
July 21, 2019
A detailed account into Tasker's climbing experiences. A tiring read as the sentences are long and wordy. Having said that, I couldn't put the book down. Great read.
March 18, 2020
Amazing views, toughts and respect of mountains!
July 1, 2020
Beautifully written! It’s rare to find a mountaineering novel that’s written so elegantly.
May 4, 2021
A brilliant example of mountaineering literature; gripping & beautifully written. Highly recommended; even if you think you have mountain literature fatigue.
December 10, 2021
Outstanding. Every chapter an epic. As good as anything I've read in the genre, bar maybe The Bond.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 53 reviews