We know Joe Simpson as indomitable survivor in Touching the Void, which rightfully ranks as one of the greatest adventure stories of all times in addition to its resiliency value as an incredible self-rescue in mountaineering. That book, a bestseller not just with adventure junkies, introduced Simpson as a confident and unflinching writer, despite the struggles of it being his debut. Touching the Void featured crisp prose, polished syntax, a well-constructed narrative with bits of humor to enliven its overall gloomy mood, and, perhaps most importantly, the author's total honesty in sharing his harrowing ordeal with the world. I found all those qualities and more in This Game of Ghosts, which Simpson wrote for additional context on his life before and after Siula Grande.
Many descriptions call This Game of Ghosts a sequel, but that label is misguided. It is not simply a follow-up to the events that happened in Peru in 1985, though it begins with them and, later on, explains how completely life-altering those desperate days in the Andes turned out to be. Instead, the book gives a fuller picture of Joe Simpson the human being, not just the Joe Simpson the climber. While he makes it clear that climbing defined his path in life and shaped him as an individual, the author does not shy away from sharing with the readers deeply personal stories from his childhood, where his role as the youngest in a large and disorganized family set the foundation for the strong-headed and fiercely self-reliant man he would later become.
The experiences while growing up drove Simpson to assert his independence in all aspects of his adult life, eventually finding an outlet for his energy in climbing - and not just at the local crag, but in taking on the hardest routes across the world without a moment's hesitation. Gifted with a natural ability to scale mountains, Simpson describes in vivid detail the incredible risks he subjected himself to during his mountaineering career, many of which should have long left him dead. In particular, three major incidents, an avalanche and a stranding in the Alps early on, along with a massive fall in the Himalayas late in his career, combine with the famous crevasse drop in the Andes to amaze us at how lucky Simpson got, and live to tell us about it.
These harrowing stories are more than page-turners - they are 'gulpers', as one cannot help but helplessly gulp at the game of random chance that climbing is. The mountains do not seek to take human lives, they are indifferent to our fears or desires, and thus those who venture into their domain must understand that perishing is the result of human error or the unfortunate 'wrong place, wrong time' condition. From this perspective, Joe Simpson's astonishing survival not once, but FOUR times in what are certain death scenarios, serves as food for thought on the randomness of life. Oh, and Simpson also walked away from a car accident in Britain.
Ultimately, this memoir is about Simpson's struggle to come to terms with his still being alive while having many of his friends and fellow climbers perished, sometimes in circumstances beyond their control (like plane crashes). In a way, the book is about Simpson overcoming survivor's guilt, even though he was not physically present when most of the deaths happened, and finding justification through resignation and acceptance. And while the price of his own survival was steep (significant fractures in both legs effectively ending any dreams of elite climbing), Simpson found a reason to keep moving despite the ghosts of others multiplying and coalescing into an ever-present reminder that perhaps life is really just a sequence of haphazard events, most innocuous but some lethal, and that an in-the-moment, thrilling existence will have the same result as a well-ordered, minimal risk one.
This Game of Ghosts is well worth the read. Despite its overall dark theme, it is an excellent rendition of the English language without being pretentious. It features some hilarious sections, like the climbing bum period in France and the surreal drive on the Karakoram Highway in Pakistan, both of which were written with such fine deadpan humor, that I was laughing myself silly. And it is an honor to highlight it as one of the better contributions to the canon of mountaineering literature, from one of the best writers in the genre. Thanks Joe for sharing your stories with us.