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Coins in the Fountain: A Midlife Escape to Rome

With middle age looming, Judith Works decided it was time for a change. but after graduating from law school at age forty-seven, she still faced the question: "What now?" Casual conversations about far-off travels with husband Glenn became a reality with the offer of a dream job at the United Nations in Rome, Italy.

Coins in the Fountain brings life the challenges of acclimating to the beautiful and chaotic ancient city of Rome. Judith shares her struggles to learn the arcane rules and folkways of the UN while Glenn begins his valiant effort to cook Italian-style, as they both endeavor to embrace la dole vita. With an extraordinary count and countess for friends, dogs in the doctor's office, snakes and unexploded bombs on the golf course, along with a sinking sailboat rocking on the ocean, the unexpected was always just around the corner.

Through wit, wry humor, and descriptions of enticing food and travel adventures, Judith takes you on a journey into the heart of what it is truly like to live in the Eternal City.

According to Roman lore, if you toss a coin over your shoulder into the famous Trevi Fountain, the gods will grant you a return trip. When it was time for them to leave, Judith made that hopeful toss and her wish was granted.

276 pages, ebook

First published September 4, 2011

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About the author

Judith Works

4 books102 followers
Having lived a basically boring life until early middle age, it was time for something interesting to happen. So I went to law school. It was fun but in the end didn't make much difference until my degree and the chance meeting with a long missing friend combined to provide an opportunity to escape into a new life in Rome, Italy. My husband and I spent ten years living the dolce vita (with a few hiccups on the way). My memoir, Coins in the Fountain, recounts those exciting years.

Now retired, I travel as often as possible in between volunteering for arts and literary organizations. I love to collect old travel books.

My novel, The Measure of Life, is now available. It is set in Rome and Vashon Island near Seattle. Nicole's life is turned upside down after sharing a cappuccino and cornetto with her Italian tutor.

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5 stars
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33 (28%)
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25 (21%)
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Displaying 1 - 26 of 26 reviews
Profile Image for Kris.
103 reviews1 follower
September 23, 2012
Perhaps the biggest problem I had was overcoming the fact that going in, I thought this was a novel based on her experiences, not fully a recount of her experience. I liked the parts where she described Italy, and the differences in the cultures... but I wasn't overly thrilled with the writing itself, nor did I actually care about things that happened.
Profile Image for E.J. Bauer.
Author 3 books69 followers
July 17, 2020
Of course I reached for this book because it's about Italy. I love Italy and was prepared for a wonderful escape to Rome, highlighting the wine, food, customs, festivals and perhaps visits to other parts of the country. I got exactly what I'd hoped for, but so much more. If you want a wonderful mix of history, geography and beautifully written observations of the passing parade that was Rome around the turn of the millennium, then this is well worth a read. It's been skilfully woven with literature and film references and makes me hope my coins in the Trevi Fountain will someday work their own magic.
653 reviews
April 20, 2024
So, I'm sitting in a gorgous Rome apartment (a small space within a former Roman palazzo) having just finished "Coins in the Fountain"

It is fabled that if you turn with your back to a fountain (famously the Trevi Fountain) and toss coins over your shoulder into the water, you will secure your return to Rome.

The book is a fantastic history lesson of Rome and Italy written by Judith Works as she took a temporary employment position in the city. Written as a pure visitor (how can you EVER become a true Roman) working for ten+ years in a city literally thousands of years old with more history in one tiny slippery cobblestone than any of our western cities will ever have or know., deliciously filled with reminiscence of food, wine, sights, smells, smiles, and tears - a feast in every sense!

A delight to read - a reminder to me to toss some coins as there is no doubt that I'll return!
Profile Image for Pamela.
355 reviews
April 4, 2024
This is an enjoyable and insightful armchair expatriation. The author shares her time spent working in Rome and traveling throughout Italy.
Profile Image for Tripfiction.
2,166 reviews218 followers
November 19, 2016
Memoir set in ROME

How does a North American woman, stationed in Rome for the UN, acclimatise to the weird and wonderful world that is Rome? Armed with an Italian Dictionary, the biography of the Borgias and a Michelin Guide for the city (printed for the first time way back in 1959 apparently) she was ready to embrace the Eternal City.

Judith Works is offered a work-posting to the city and with affable husband Glenn in tow, the two set up home in the EUR District of the city (the letters standing for Espozione Universale Roma). This is not the Rome of ruins but the brainchild of Mussolini, the area earmarked to celebrate 20 years of Fascism in 1942; but the war came along and put significant dampers on his megalomaniac plans.

At first her Anglo Saxon reticence to engage in full-on life in the city is utterly palpable. She observes the chaos from the sidelines, lamenting the poor kitchen and bathroom facilities and colourful disorder that makes Rome what it is. But – whilst mild-mannered Glenn is in the background getting stuck into experimental Italian cooking – she begins to mellow as the city works its magic on her. For sure, it remains at heart frustrating in many bureaucratic ways, but the complex edifice that is the city of Rome and its history is soon there for the taking and absorbing. And absorb and wonder she does, Rome, she determines is much like living in an opera.

All things atrocious and shameless flock from everywhere to Rome (Tacitus). “Not much has changed in that regard from the turn of the second century AD”, she writes.

They spend a couple of years there and then return to North America. But she must have thrown several coins into the Trevi Fountain (doing this means you will return to the city) and they return once again, still charmed and addicted to the city. Her wonderment grows and with it the reader embarks with her on adventures, enthralled by her discoveries and simple pleasures – mainly food it has to be said (and what’s not to like about that!), as she fills her book with a rich pot of interesting observations and facts, peppered with useful tips. She herself masters the art of sprezzatura (or as much as someone who is not born in Rome can) – the art of making the difficult look effortless.

Her descriptions of the food markets are sumptuous and she muses how many other countries, including her own, have disappeared into a culture of clingfilm and ready-made meals, and what a loss to the senses that really is. She ponders the observation that many food markets also feature stalls of shoes… perhaps the two somehow go hand-in-hand, but hers is not to question the apparently tenuous connection.

And Christmas, what joy. The build-up starts so much later in the calendar, early December, when it’s time to set up the ubiquitous presepi: figures are collected year in, year out to build up a delightful and unique nativity scene to create the presepio. She delights in the stalls on the Piazza Navona but as this memoir was written when the lira was still the currency of Italy, I am sad to report that the Christmas market no longer takes place (it stopped a couple of years ago). But you can still enjoy her recommended visits to Volpetti for all your deli needs, purchase you confetti (the common nuptial sweets) in Sulmona (just feast your eyes on the vast arrays on this website) and head over to the Taverna dei Barbi in Montalcino.

As the Kirkus Review of this book says: “Armchair-travel books are rarely as good as this one”
Profile Image for R.S. Gompertz.
Author 5 books32 followers
November 4, 2013
The expat roller coaster is captured with style and substance in this well crafted tale of an mid-life career change that leads to a Roman adventure. Anyone who wonders about living abroad or anyone who has immersed herself in the sights, smells, tastes and travails of foreign living will enjoy "Coins in the Fountain."

This entertaining and informative book flows nicely as the initial defeats give way to small victories and eventually to swimming like a fish in a Roman fountain (almost).

Judith Works weaves between the workplace and the marketplace as she provides both historical and emotional context interspersed with anecdotes, broader reflections, and delicious meal descriptions and cooking tips. Her sense of humor is wonderful and her keen eye for illuminating details and human foibles renders the richness and quirks of navigating both the amusing and frustrating obstacles of daily life on and off the job in Rome.

All in all, an enjoyable, memorable, and savory read.

Coins in the Fountain
977 reviews30 followers
July 23, 2017
I have to admit that I did not finish this book. While I made it to almost the halfway point, I found my thoughts constantly drifting away, so it was time to give up trying. Unlike most memoirs I have read, it just doesn't have those interesting anecdotes that make books like this so entertaining. Instead it is worded like this: this person did this and this person did that. I also have no sense at all when the author was in Italy, I did not find a single year mentioned other the 1950's when she was young and the years that some of the buildings were built. If I had to guess, I think her experiences may have been in the 1980's or 1990's which could explain why the book comes across so methodically.

On the other hand, the author has added a good bit of history and she really does a rather thorough job of describing the scenery, foods and stores. That information may be interesting to some people. Looking at the other reviews, it seems that many people enjoyed the book more than me. I invite you to judge for yourself.
316 reviews
October 31, 2019
"The setting, so redolent of the past, always made me mindful of the continuity that so characterizes Italy and how I was part of that endless procession, pagan and Christian, rich and poor, native and foreign, who all shared in its eternal beauty."

A beautifully written book that brought Rome to life. Although Works shares something of her own personal experience of Rome, the majority of the book is devoted to descriptions of the world she finds around her during the years she spends working in Rome. Rome itself is a very complex and immense character that is beautifully portrayed in the author’s writing.

The author is fortunate enough to see a lot of Italy. Compared to her descriptions of Rome, some the of the magic is lost when she describes the rest of her travels in Italy and at times it can a little monotonous and so the second half of the book is not as strong as the first. The author also travels to developing areas of the world through her job and the author is very aware of her privileged situation as she concludes after a visit to a deprived area:

“In the late afternoon we sat on a ledge and watched the sun set in the west and a full moon rise in the east, as they always have, no matter what lies beneath the light—whether more of the world’s horrors, the possibilities of peace, or my comfortable, well-fed life.”

This is a great book for anyone who is visiting Rome or who like me simple loves the city of Rome and has a lot more depth and a superiority to other similar books of this ilk.
Profile Image for Catherine Linka.
Author 8 books128 followers
April 22, 2023
The perfect read for armchair travelers seeking to escape a cold, rainy winter. Judith Works takes the reader through the sun-blessed streets of Rome for a tour of life in the Eternal City. While readers will relish the sensuous details of Italian cuisine, they will also laugh at the vagaries of living in a country whose culture and government can be utterly baffling. Enjoy!
Profile Image for Chris.
523 reviews23 followers
September 2, 2025
Part memoir, part travelogue, part history lesson, this is the story of a middle/late age couple's two sojourns in Rome, Italy at the end of the last century. For me, the author doesn't give enough of herself: but it is an interesting walk through the author's travels in Italy, with some history and a flavor of the food and wines thrown in.
Profile Image for Tamara.
496 reviews2 followers
January 21, 2026
Aahh Italy!

A really interesting true story about a husband and wife’s experience living and working in Italy. It sounded like such a beautiful time and they were very fortunate to experience it. It was really nice to get an inside look at what it felt like as an American to live in Italy.
Profile Image for Italo Italophiles.
528 reviews40 followers
February 25, 2016
It is difficult to review a book that is like several books in one, and that is the case with this book. The memoirs was inspired by the author's time living in Rome, Italy, while she worked for two United Nations organizations. The stay allowed the shopping and travel addict to indulge her dual addictions liberally.

We read about her work, her travels, her purchases, and also about her past and present life. All is sprinkled liberally with quotes, Italian words, humor, history and Italian food. Her travels in Italy left her a lifelong Italophile.

"...my heart remains in Italy with its abiding connection to the past."

Despite all her travels and reading, she admits:

"...it is impossible to know all of Italy with its overabundance of everything."

This book offers an abundance of anecdotes. I had to put it down often because I came to feel it was an overabundance of stories, but that just means the reader will get their money's worth with this memoirs that is about much more than Rome and Italy.

Ever wonder what it would be like to work for one of the UN's charitable organizations? You'll discover that in the book since the author worked for two such organizations, both based in Rome. The pampered existence for the ex-pats who too often revert to their worst when not surrounded by the social pressures of their home country to behave, is not as attractive as it might seem.

Ever wonder what it would be like to live in Rome? You'll discover that in the book, in minute detail. It might not be what you expect, because Italian cities are pretty horrible. Only the history and art make them livable. The pollution, expense, inefficiencies, crime, filth and lack of amenities that many of us take for granted, would put off most people. The nearness to the Italian countryside is the biggest appeal of the city.

Ever wonder what it would be like to work in a personnel department? You'll discover that too, in the book, since that is where the author spent her working career. You'll see how one comes to view employees rather cynically from that perspective.

Ever wonder what sights are within easy drives, or overnight stays, from Rome? You'll discover many of those, in much detail, in this book, because the author and her very supportive husband were rarely still, exploring central and southern Italy, even neglected regions like Basilicata. Longer trips in Italy to Sicily and other popular locations are included too.

There are more stories than those, about trips to African countries and Cambodia and Spain, Italian food, parties, colleagues, the U.S. Forest Service (her employer in the States), shopping, more shopping, an ex-husband (who should have been spared inclusion in the book, in my humble opinion), markets, apartments, clothing, tourists, Gypsies (Roma), sailboat trips by her husband, and ex-pat life in-country and after returning home.

To spend that much time with one person, via their memoirs, you need to be able to relate to them on some level. If you share some of her pre-Italy U.S. American life experiences, that would help. She doesn't always behave honorably, and shows some superficial values, but that is mostly forgiven because of her erudition and intellectual curiosity. Everything is filtered through a U.S. lens.

The author admits to having lived a sheltered U.S. American life of affluence and ignorance before moving to Italy. Actually, I was very surprised she got the job in Rome; she seemed an unlikely candidate for a foreign post, lacking language, life and work experience. She became a person one could consider very greedy for new experiences.

If you enjoy history along with your travel stories, peppered with thoughtful literary quotes, you should enjoy this book. I think it might hold most appeal for armchair travelers, readers who like living vicariously through others, or those who are planning to go on an extended tour of central and southern Italy.

My full and illustrated review is at Italophile Book Reviews. I received a review-copy of this book. This is my honest review.

http://italophilebookreviews.blogspot...
Profile Image for Wendy Kendall.
Author 6 books89 followers
February 22, 2016
Coins in the Fountain
A Memoir of Rome
By Judith Works

You’re invited on a Roman holiday. You’ll linger over each page of this book, savoring the full-flavored descriptions of all that is seen, heard, tasted, and felt. Just like all holidays, you won’t want this book to end. Judith is an adventuresome American who eagerly sought the extraordinary experience of working with the United Nations organization in Italy. Now we’re fortunate that she’s sharing her expatriate and also her traveler experiences with the rest of us.

Often tourists regret not glimpsing more about the culture and people of the countries they travel to. Here Judith’s tales setting up a household and then a life in Rome treat you to those insights of what it is to be Italian. The descriptions of all aspects of la dolce vita are enhanced with the author’s delightful, dry humor. As with life everywhere, there is the good, the bad, and the ugly, and this book holds back nothing from a well-rounded account for the reader. Narratives of the Italian meals cooked at home, as well as enjoyed in restaurants are featured. Meals are events. Words from the beautiful Italian language are sprinkled throughout the book too, delighting the reader.

There are several dimensions to this memoir. In addition to life in Rome, another interesting aspect is the description of the work done for the United Nations. The initial work described is with the FAO (Food and Agricultural Organization). These situations “presented new problems complicated by the mix of nationalities, cultures, work locations, and legal arrangements. Adding to the tangle, the United Nations has its own laws as well as individual agreements governing its presence.” Later the author works for the FAO’s even more adventuresome sister food agency, the World Food Programme. Stories shared in this book about dedicated people assigned all over the world were touching.

All five senses are immersed in the vivid descriptions of the bountiful landmarks in Rome. With years of residency to draw from, the author presents the places so many of us have only heard of and also many surprises in Rome as well. But that’s not all! For you virtual travelers, Judith also shares extensive excursions taken all over Italy. But it’s not just the sights, sounds, and tastes in Judith’s descriptions; she includes very interesting historical information to explain the background and then relates it to present day. The writing flows so easily, it is sprezzatura, the art of making the difficult look effortless.

You’ll enjoy this gracious, artistic view of life in Italy, and you can reread it over again without throwing coins in the fountain.

Thereby hangs a tale . . . .
Profile Image for LaBibliodeCaro.
636 reviews3 followers
February 12, 2017
Coins in the Fountain is a captivating memoir written by Judith Works who has clearly led quite a hectic, exciting life. Moving from the US to Italy to occupy an incredible job at the United Nations in Rome, she and her husband have to adjust to a new language, a new culture, a new way of life, a new “everything” basically. On top of that, you should know that at the time they started this adventure, it was near the end of the eighties, so forget all the practical technology, online banking and high speed Internet we now rely on and could not live without!

When she shares her many awkward or funny anecdotes that took place at the beginning of her journey, you won’t resist laughing a little. Experiencing the cultural shock helps you grow and learn about yourself. I know what I am talking about (let’s not even mention the impact of the reverse cultural shock). Coins in the Fountain made me reflect of my own experiences, so I liked this book a lot.

It is filled with interesting, informative and entertaining stories on a vast array of topics, from local traditions and cuisine to politics and history, religion and culture. It is meticulously researched and detailed. It makes for a vivid tale. The author really managed to encapsulate what expatriate life can be like (trips, friends, job, discoveries, bad moments and happy moments). I particularly enjoyed reading the bittersweet ending. You can really tell how hard it can be to leave behind your new heart home.

If you are unsure you’ll enjoy this kind of once-in-a-lifetime adventure, do read this book, it’ll help change your mind to give it a go.
Profile Image for Msellen88.
139 reviews
April 25, 2024
I loved this book! Around 1991, I met Judith Works briefly when I started working at the same organization in Rome. She gave me valuable career advice that I didn't forget. Her experiences about living and working in Rome were so similar to mine....learning the language, dealing with a shady landlord, sleeping in a barren apartment for weeks and more precisely - working for a byzantine international organization where management decisions made no sense. Like Judith, I came to love Italy so much that I returned several times to visit friends and eventually I took another assignment in the Eternal City much later in my career. My heart still yearns for Italy - the culture, the history, the food, the wine and especially the warm and wonderful Italian people that I met.
Profile Image for Barbara Conelli.
Author 3 books72 followers
June 5, 2012
As a lifelong nomad, globetrotter and expat, I love meeting fellow travelers who’s had the privilege to experience living in a foreign country – especially if the country is Italy, my home away from home and the love of my life.

In her book “Coins In The Fountain”, whose title is a reminiscence of the famous movie, Judith recounts her and her husband’s adventures in Italy that were a dream come true, although sometimes quite bittersweet.

Judith’s narrative is colorful, captivating and deliciously genuine. Having experienced both faces of Italy, the beautifully romantic as well as the painfully irritating, she is very candid in the way she shares her story. Although a memoir, “Coins In The Fountain” reads like a novel and feels like a movie.

Judith has an extraordinary talent to make you part of her story. I envisioned myself sitting with her over a cup of coffee on the piazza, listening to her Italian anecdotes. The book is vivid and brilliant, compact, with stories excellently woven together, and it’s a must-read if you love Italy just like me.

When I finished reading “Coins In The Fountain”, I wished Judith’s story would continue. Who knows, maybe one day it will – and I hope she writes another exquisite book about it.
Profile Image for Laura.
Author 4 books23 followers
March 22, 2016
Told with a balance of humor and reflection, Judith Works’ memoir takes us inside her life as an ex-pat American working and living in Rome for ten years. After her husband takes early retirement, Works accepts a position with the United Nations in Rome as an attorney for FAO. (Food and Agriculture Organization.)

Relatively easy things we Americans take for granted in the US, such as renting an apartment or buying a car, are fraught with intrigue and drama in Rome. Luckily for Works, she and her husband Glenn face the daily misadventures with humor and grace. Most of the book takes place in Italy, but the author’s job requires her to travel to Cambodia and Kenya, and where she is faced with harrowing circumstances.

Italy is a blend of old and new, and Works sums this up when she describes a Saturday flea market.” Despite the modern goods and dress of the vendors, the market is straight out of a Pieter Bruegel painting.”

While told through an American lens, Works does well in presenting the details without passing judgment. Note, make sure you have a full stomach, because the descriptions of food will make you hungry.
Profile Image for Pam.
Author 22 books40 followers
December 11, 2013
At a crossroads in her life, the author embarked on a somewhat unexpected journey to Rome for four years with the U.N. Her "leap into the unknown" provides the reader with a vivid look at her escape. Works' descriptions made me want to research more about Rome - she has a delightful way with words, a keen turn of phrase. I was thrilled, too, to find some recipes sprinkled informally throughout the narrative. Coins in the Fountain is filled with intimate details of Works' day-to-day life in Italy, things you won't find in guide books, such as the admonition always to buy flowers in odd numbers when giving them as gifts; even is considered unlucky. A lovely, enjoyable read!
Profile Image for Paddy Eger.
Author 21 books22 followers
December 9, 2013
Judith takes the reader on an extensive visit to the sights, sounds, colors and tastes of Italy. In an instant I wanted to tuck her in my pocket and visit all the places she spent time discovering over her years as a UN worker. I kept thinking, she should lead a trip through Italy! She has an amazing amount of background information and insight into the country and shares history and humor as she leads us to reaching gor the phone to makes plans for a visit to her favorite haunts.
Profile Image for United Indie Book Blog.
4,742 reviews84 followers
January 15, 2016
A lovely story of the author's time in Rome. She makes the whole experience come to life. If I went to Europe I would want her as my tour guide. She is very well read. She uses quotes from Marcus Aurelius & Mark Twain to explain what she saw. Old books and movies were used as tour guides for weekend trips. There are wonderful descriptions of life in Rome and the other places she visited during her time working for the United Nations.
Review by Laura
Profile Image for Laura.
287 reviews
January 15, 2016
A lovely story of the author's time in Rome. She makes the whole experience come to life. If I went to Europe I would want her as my tour guide. She is very well read. She uses quotes from Marcus Aurelius & Mark Twain to explain what she saw. Old books and movies were used as tour guides for weekend trips. There are wonderful descriptions of life in Rome and the other places she visited during her time working for the United Nations.
Profile Image for Lynnette Phillips.
105 reviews75 followers
December 2, 2011
Coins In The Fountain is touted as part memoir and part travelogue but it is also all entertainment. Judith's talents in sharing the sights and culture of Rome with her readers are unmatched but her personal anecdotes about her exploits involving her friends and the Romans themselves are so incredibly vivid that you're surprised to realize you're not actually there with her.
Profile Image for Georgette.
22 reviews54 followers
August 26, 2012
probably one of the few 'expat living in Italy' that I respect/enjoy. Mainly due to the fact that this couple integrated well and did things off the beaten path. They make Rome (and Italy) come alive even for me. well written and a pleasure to read, bravo!
Profile Image for Jeane Rhodes.
20 reviews2 followers
June 9, 2013
More than a travel book, a personal experience of Rome.
3 reviews
June 11, 2015
Now I want to go to Italy!

The author makes the restless life seem so appealing. She makes me wish I had a job that allows travel.
3,334 reviews37 followers
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November 5, 2018
I was hoping for a Under the Tuscan Sun or Driving Over Lemons, but no. Living in Rome didn't seem to be as much fun as I had hoped Ms. Works would write about. Rome always sounded super amazing to me, but it doesn't read as such. I skimmed after a bit looking for better parts to read, but didn't seem to have anything entertaining to report. Sorry. Not nor me.
Displaying 1 - 26 of 26 reviews