A tale full of adventure, warmth, and wit.
Two journalists and their dog spending a year in the rural and wild southern Peloponnese at the beginning of the Greek economic crisis: A tale full of adventure, warmth, and wit, delving into the heart of the communities in this area.
Helped along by some knowledge of the language, Marjory McGinn makes her home in the village of Megali Mantineia, in Mani "...because it promised soaring temperatures and deserted coves... most of all it was described as untamed and remote, all the better to find colourful characters, raw edges, and even the odd calamity.” It turns out that - against the dark backdrop of Greece's ever-deepening economic crisis - Mani's people, their life and customs, and the expat community, offer Marjory all of the above and more.
Things are not going entirely according to plan, so Marjorie and her partner, Jim, have to deal with a number of surprising matters: scorpions, dustbins, veterinary lab tests, a fishhook, dentists or the lack of them... And they do so with humor and moods that match the fiercely independent and proud community of local Greeks who, in turn, have to deal not only with the demands of a harsh landscape, unforgiving history, and hundreds of years of rebellion against invading foes, but also with increasing austerity measures and a deteriorating economy.
There are plenty of sympathetic and unforgettable descriptions of local characters, interesting background on the area, hilarious escapades as well as moving moments, and insightful observations of the local expats who turn out to be as colourful as the locals. Cultural tensions between Greeks and expats add to the frisson and make this book an interesting read and as independent-minded as those it describes. At a deeper level, the incidents illustrate the author's quest for rootedness: a sort of Odyssey, with the author stopping to learn from and experience different places and characters.
A treat to curl up with by the fire on a cold winter evening, or by the Aegean, on a warm summer's day. Even more, enticing to visit the places it describes. I haven't been to the area, but having read this book I most definitely will visit.
After Marjory McGinn left Greece to return to Scotland - she’d planned to be there for a year, but stayed three in the end - the Greek economy continued on its downward slide. I wonder how the people in the villages she describes are faring now. At the same time, I know that many from the cities - over three million alone live in Athens - facing unemployment and homelessness, are now moving back to rural Greece, from where their parents came from and where families may still own land. I wonder how this influx - of educated, artistic, cosmopolitan as well as depressed Greeks is going to affect the villages featured in this book. In this case, this book, might become a future reference source about life in `unspoilt' Greece.
A sequel is implied. I hope it materializes; I certainly look forward to it!