Eclipsed now by the great Arthurian sequence beginning with The Sword In The Stone, but I believe this was White's first big hit. Which is hard to credit, reading it now. The format is one that still does perfectly good business – the author's diary of a year in the country, getting in touch with rural ways. Hell, another White book was part of the scaffolding for a recent hit in that line, H Is For Hawk. But where Helen Macdonald is careful to bring the reader along with her, explaining falconry from first principles, this feels a lot more like White has genuinely just published his diary, and he knows what everything means, and if you don't then it sucks to be you. The terminology of huntin', shootin' and fishin' is used without explanation, and when he learns to fly, that goes double. Even Googling, obviously a resource unavailable to the book's first six decades of readers, doesn't always help; I've flown a plane not much ahead of the ones White is in here, I still didn't know what a 'cheese-cutter' was, and it took a fair bit of thinking around SEO before it would stop trying to flog me aviation-themed items for cutting cheese and provide some approximation of an answer. Set against which obstacles, the bits one can follow really are very good on little details of flying, like the experience of not really knowing what you're doing as a plane stalls, and how there never seems to be an intermediate stage between 'high up' and 'really very close to the ground'.
As well as the terminology not being as welcoming as the modern reader might expect, there are also the sentiments. Even the early fishing sections are a long way from the bucolic idyll of Mortimer & Whitehouse; here it's all slitting of throats and discoloured gills in foul Scottish weather. And when White attends the birth of a foal, the instruction to take rope and an iron bar feels almost parodically grim, Cold Comfort Farm stuff. But while White never quite comes out and says it in the way a writer of a later generation might, it becomes clear fairly quickly that part of what he's doing here is working out how he feels about it all, and by extension who he is. Early on, I was tempted to abandon the whole project over the 'won't feel the benefit' logic of this passage: "The true voluptuary wears sackcloth nearly all the time, so that when he does put on his sheer silk pants he can get the full satisfaction out of rolling in the hay. It is the same with baths. If I am continually washing myself, quite apart from the dangerous and insanitary nature of the practice, I shall cease to appreciate it." Insanitary, that is, being a bath more than once a fortnight! And the notion of "the poor pansy, eroded almost out of recognition by excessive water twice a day" seemed all too easy to hear in Alex Jones' voice. But despite how easily triggered they all seem to be, I'm not sure one would ever catch a modern alt-righter with the self-awareness to muse "Does everybody claim to be unusually sensitive, just as everybody claims to have more to suffer than the next man, and to possess a sense of humour?" Or admitting "Perhaps it is true that the best method of defence is attack. Because I am afraid of things, of being hurt and death, I have to attempt them. This journal is about fear."
Not that these are the only times when White is willing to come across badly. One can to some extent discount as comic exaggeration his plans to become a cruel laird and be beastly to the commoners – "It will make very little difference to them in any case: their life is already insupportable. I shall be ninety years old, my nose will meet my chin, and I shall hunt my hounds out of a bath-chair drawn by Shetland ponies." But it's harder to raise a smile at his undisguised, ghoulish curiosity when he hears that someone has seen a pilot crash into telegraph wires and fry - "I said, and felt, that I might have liked to see this. He said: 'No, you wouldn't, because he screamed as he fried."' With animals, he tends to demonstrate much more compassion. Not in a way that stops him hunting (something I find a lot less confusing than many urban vegetarians seem to), but certainly in a way that complicates it. It's not that the bounds of his animal empathy are narrowly drawn; he has quite the menagerie, and it's here most of all that his gift for getting a character across in a line is on show: "Unlike the frog (who has the mentality of a chicken or a maiden aunt), the toad takes life as it comes. He sits in the middle of the carpet and reflects upon it". The home menagerie also includes snakes, of whom he's insistent he does not want to make pets: "They live loose in the room, except that I lock them up at nights so that the maids can clean in the mornings without being frightened." But he can still be endeared when they burrow inside the sofa, or institute excursions: "He was a confiding snake, and I once took him to church in my pocket, to make him a Christian and to comfort me during the sermon." He's outraged at animal deaths he considers not the done thing, and even unsure of the ones for which he's personally responsible, and it's easy to find his attempts to square the circle dishonest on some level, while being keenly aware that plenty of long-standing religions and philosophies have done no better: "One is a concrete assassination of beauty, the other is a creation of beauty – the beautiful aim. [...] A mere dead hare: horrible. But a hare cut over so that he somersaults with his head on the ground: beauty." For the sport to count as sport, he concludes, it needs to matter, and it can't be too easy. To which one might object, well, could a serial killer not say the same of hunting humans? Though I suspect that White would be a lot more OK with that than most. This is after all a man who can with every appearance of sincerity drop the sentence "I felt happy and interested, as if I had been condemned to death."
But then, like any writer trying to evoke the life of the rural working class of which he can't altogether be part, White is inevitably an outsider in all directions, and he knows it, openly if reluctantly admitting that this is a dilettante's book: "My intellectual friends consider my fishing a pose, and my fishing friends have an anxious expression, in case I should say something perverse." Like most English anti-urbanists he loves his Cobbett, with London of course referred to as the Wen, and underground commuters compared to maggots burrowing through a corpse – an image that feels considerably truer in the 2020s, with the once-great city now so hollowed out. "When London Bridge has tumbled down, and the sewers of the hive have ceased to pollute the waters, there will be salmon opposite the Imperial Chemicals building, but no Imperial Chemicals building opposite the salmon." Given I couldn't tell you where the Imperial Chemicals building was, then in a sense this has already come to pass – though equally, we've really scaled up our destruction in the past 85 years, so I'm not as sure as White of the salmon doing much better in the medium to long term. And yet, this same would-be bluff son of soil is reading dos Passos, one of the laureates of the 20th century city, without feeling any need to attribute it to knowing one's enemy or suchlike! Among the many times when I wondered how his Luddite tendencies and flirtations with anti-intellectualism would fare in the modern day was when he was delighting in birdsong not being susceptible to musical notation – now, of course, there's an app for that, and a pretty good one too, even if I am sceptical of its occasional insistence on buzzards around me, when every time I briefly think I see a raptor it turns out to be a pigeon at a flatteringly dramatic angle.
White's own area, incidentally, he refers to as the Shire. "There is no need even to be enthusiastic about the county, and no compulsion to remain. I don't myself consider it beautiful. The land prefers to make no demands upon its inhabitants, but to exist as a position on the map of England, for those who want it. A non-committal earth, secretly exuberant in its private way". He makes some efforts to disguise it, but inexpert ones, and long before mention was made of Waltheof having been its earl, I'd fingered Middlehampton as Northampton. Not an area I know at all well, despite it being home to the greatest living Englishman, but one for which this book, despite all its faults, has given me a deeper theoretical fondness. Much like the Frank Turner album which almost shares its title, it's painfully gauche in some places, outright concerning in others. But both of them also have a profound love and yearning at their core, for which I can forgive much. One could even argue that White has the edge because to my knowledge he never re-released this in five colourways to rinse the hardcore fans. Plus, he finds room for at least one absolutely true sentence: "It has been an almost perfect day, and suffers from the disease common to such days: that it was not quite perfect and eternal."