True surfers understand that surfing is not a sport, a hobby or even a lifestyle. Instead, it is a path, a constantly evolving journey that directs where you go, how you live, and who you are.
In 2006, Liz Clark decided to follow the path that surfing, sailing and love of the ocean had presented to her. Embarking on an adventure that most only dream of taking, she set sail from Santa Barbara, solo, headed to the South Pacific. Nine years later she is still following her path in search of surf and self and the beauty and inspiration that lies beyond the beaten path.
In stories overflowing with epic waves and at the whim of the weather, Liz captures her voyage in gripping detail, telling tales of self awareness, solitude, connection to the earth, and really great surf spots.
I learned to sail at seven years old in San Diego, California on a little red sailing dinghy. At ten, I completed a 5,000-mile, 6-month cruise in Mexico with my family on our sailboat, The Endless Summer, experiencing a different culture, the freedom and beauty of sea travel, and opening my mind to horizons beyond my hometown reality. I credit the origin of my environmental concern to my exposure to the contrasting landscapes of grave pollution and radical natural beauty in Mexico.
Albeit very young, this trip profoundly impacted me. Two things were clear when we returned to San Diego in 1990: I wanted to protect the natural world from human destruction and, one day, I wanted to be the captain of my own sailboat.
At fifteen, my love of the ocean and natural athletic inclination led me to try surfing. Soon after, it was all I wanted to do. Determined to excel in the sport, I spent all my free time in the water and eventually started competing. I surfed in private contests and for the UCSB surf team while studying at UC Santa Barbara. My competitive career culminated in a win at the NSSA Nationals, making me the 2002 College Women’s National Champion. Although I enjoyed pushing my level of surfing through competition, I was more inclined to chasing nature saturated, exploratory surf experiences. I enjoyed surfing most for the adventures leading to remote breaks, the connection with the elements, and the opportunities for self-discovery. I was full of bigger questions that needed answers.
I began taking surf trips during summers and school breaks to Barbados, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Guatemala, Hawaii, Mexico, Nicaragua, and a ‘study abroad’ trip Australia. As I finished up my degree in Environmental Studies, I remember feeling frustrated by the direction the world seemed headed. Our distance and apathy for the natural world and failure as a country to seek and promote environmentally sustainable living left me disappointed and frustrated. I clung to my dream as a ‘way out’.
My surfing obsession further fueled this fire. The pressures of increasing crowds and urban pollution made the idea of a free-ranging life on the sea seem even more appealing. After graduation, I crewed on different boats to gain experience for about a year, and then spontaneously came upon the chance to become the captain of my own sailboat. Thanks to the generosity of my friend and mentor, Barry Schuyler, along with support from my family, Swell and I were united.
Through this stroke of serendipity, my intense determination, and the generosity and advice of innumerable people in Santa Barbara and beyond, Swell was converted into an ocean-worthy vessel. For almost three years, I worked with local professionals–mechanical, rigging, sail repair, radio, fiberglassing, and others, learning and overhauling each of Swell’s vital systems in order to prepare myself and my ship for sea. Only having sailed the boat a handful of times during this busy preparation period, I honestly didn’t know whether I would be capable of a captain’s tasks and responsibility. Although the uncertainties ahead petrified me, the alternative of not going seemed even more unthinkable. And so in October of 2005, I pointed Swell’s bow south from the Santa Barbara harbor.
Over the 20,000 nautical miles of ocean I’ve sailed since, I’ve discovered that the most important sort of exploration happens within. The enormous sense of fulfillment I’ve gained from following my dream, delving into self-awareness, and living a simple life close to nature motivates me to continue sharing my experiences in hopes of the same for others.
There is a lot to like about this book and Liz’s honesty about the choices she makes tops the list. It’s an easy read and covers really awesome subject matter. However the book tends to wander a bit between notional environmental activism, general American observations of poverty in other countries, and self-discovery... I found myself wishing she would go deeper into these topics. Maybe those are the topics for future books!
I added Swell to my reading list after seeing it in a Patagonia store about six months ago. I planned on borrowing it from the library, but after seeing her do a book reading from said Patagonia store about 2 months ago, I immediately purchased it and delved in soon after.
I was really surprised by this book. I thought she would follow a similar narrative that I see in other travel adventures of privileged Americans that travel the world and in the end meet the love of their life (as if that is the answer to everything). I'm pleasantly surprised that isn't the case. In Swell, Liz Clark bares her soul and lays her insecurities out for everyone to see.
While the book starts off with her being somewhat privileged, her story quickly pivots to Liz acquiring the right type of boat for her adventure, with some assistance, but also hard work waitressing to get by. You come to know first hand how little she has and how much she gives up to make her dream a reality. While she receives a lot of help along the way, she also goes through hell and back on many occasions. Her story is one of grit and perseverance. And in the end, instead of finding her prince charming, ends up with a charming kitten and a better sense of her place in the world.
I couldn't be happier for how this book came together. While it stumbles sometimes, I was riveted for most of the book. I came away completely satisfied for reading it and at the same time saddened, knowing that I most likely lack the grit to make an amazing dream like that come true for myself. Like her benefactor, Barry, I guess I'll just have to experience that dream vicariously through her eyes, and what a dream it is.
In Swell, Liz Clark recounts her experiences sailing around the Pacific Ocean after graduating from UCSB. I thought I was in for a few months of naive naval gazing, but this memoir spans a decade at sea. So far as I can tell, she's still out there now.
I really disliked the early chapters, so let me shed my initial complaints now. Clark acquires the boat mostly through the support of her family and a retired professor who takes a sudden shine to her. Seems a bit too privileged. Clark's writing often reads like teenage blog posts, perhaps because she started young and relied on blogging to fund her adventures. Books like these (e.g. Sailing Alone Around the World and Wild) often benefit from more of a clearcut goal, but Swell is a pretty loose existential wanderings diary. There's a lot of new age stuff in here--not my cup of tea, sorry. As an environmental work, it struck me as not particularly deep. I'm not sure one has to sail around the Pacific for ten years to figure out how to eat low on the food chain. I was often skeptical of her dating strategies, but more power to her. If you're reading Swell and losing patience with it for these reasons, maybe hang around.
Here are a few things that I liked about Clark's memoir. First, it's great as a proof of concept. Clark sails, mostly alone, around the Pacific, picking up as much experience as she can along the way. She makes a lot of mistakes, a reminder that we can go on journeys that have value even if we don't do them perfectly. Second, although I'm skeptical of Clark as a climate activist with important policy ideas, her story does work in Last Child in the Woods / John Muir kind of way. In other words, we would value the woods and the seas more if we located / developed more of our life’s joy in them. Third, although much of the work was too aimless for my taste, there were several more significant sequences (a scary crossing, a scary repair, and a scary relationship) that held my attention. There is also a cat.
Clark often suggests that her purpose is to inspire people to follow their dreams. I find taking on that role a bit pretentious, even I agree that we should encourage young adults to take big swings. But I also thought often about Barry, the retired professor who helped Clark to buy her boat. Although I'm not sure Clark's decision to live at sea for a decade is something we can easily replicate or scale, maybe we should more broadly encourage funding these benevolent mentorships and life quests amongst older generations.
Anyway, I've already recommended Swell to students and will recommend it to friends. There are pictures in the book, and I note that there is also a Swell Voyage website with even more pictures and notes.
Not for me. I have read many books about sailing adventures and maritime expeditions, and enjoy the stories of self-discovery, overcoming adversity, incredible voyages, ... unfortunately this book is neither. I ended up giving up, which is unusual for me (there's a bit of sunken-cost fallacy mixed with my OCD of finishing books). My purchase of this book was based on reviews, which I now suspect are rating Patagonia rather than this book. It is the story of a privileged young girl who gets "gifted" a boat, and goes on sailing trips looking for surfing spots. There is very little substance or purpose on the story, and her attempts to get the reader to feel empathy for her "struggles" are cringy: "I don't like myself, I'm not pretty enough".
Full disclosure, I abandoned this book at 40% after the following paragraph: "They don’t know how busy I constantly am to keep up with the endless maintenance, passage prep, checking the weather, emails, crew scheduling, social invites from other cruisers, and writing updates, on top of daily chores and feeding myself." This booked screamed trust fund baby, Daddy flies me here and there, and mommy has nothing to do so she sailed a few hundred miles with me. Worst Patagonia book to date with very little in common with the real world. There are endless books about travel, growth, and sacrifice, there is little genuine about this read.
Could have been a 5 star book but she becomes a religious but halfway through the book, the timeline is really disjointed, there’s an insane amount of unaddressed privilege in receiving >$100k from her family and family friends to get a boat and have no college debt
Loved. Amazing story to read, inspiring. I have bought this book for a few friends to read because I loved it so much. Reminds me I need to read it again
I'm going to preface this by stating I am quite certain that I am not this book's target audience. I chose to give this book what I consider a neutral review because of that fact. My beautiful mother gifted this book to me for the holidays. If you're reading this, I assure you it's a five star gift and I love you lots!
As for the review, I couldn't relate to the author in most things. I found the idea of sailing around the world quite fascinating. What I couldn't relate to was almost everything else.
Minor spoilers below. Do not read further if you wish to remain completely blind to the journey.
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The author chose to focus on the aspects of their journey that I have no interest in. That does not mean that the book is poorly written or that the topics discussed weren't honest, courageous, and strong. I think this book is well written. I commend the author for discussing some of the topics touched on in this book. It is well done.
I don't much care about the intricacies of sailing. I don't think I could care less about a stranger's love life. I don't care that strange men hit on the author. I'm not spiritual at all. I do not look for, and therefor do not find, meaning in the arbitrary collection of whatever it is I'm looking at whenever it is I'm supposed to uncover something profound. A lot of this book reads like nonsense to me and that's not fair because it's not. It is something for someone somewhere but it's just not for me and that's okay. I'm sure it will find it's audience and I do hope they enjoy the journey.
I really enjoyed Swell - so much that I have been looking into joining a sailing crew after taking the bar exam this summer (preferably in Tahiti or other surf destinations). I enjoyed Swell most when I could imagine it as a piece of fiction, picturing the author writing a narrator narrating her solo passage across and around the world. Without this disconnect, I was sometimes bored. Bored by some of the repeated challenge-triumph structure of the stories here, and bored by some of the extremism that is suggested in order to achieve inner peace. Cap't Liz can be preachy at times about what she learns on how to heal, how to manage anger, and how to be. But to her credit, she is patient. She doesn't spend inordinate amounts of time on minutia - this book spans a surprisingly large period of time spent on the water and on islands fixing the boat. What a job! I'm impressed and interested and jealous of her surf skills and experiences and I think I want them too but not to such an extreme because there is so much of life to experience!
DNF. Maybe I've just read enough adventure porn, but I didn't find the narrative compelling enough to continue. Also, because the author comes from a place of privilege, her challenges come across as manufactured as a result of a lifestyle choice rather than based on actual need, and thus less engaging for me as a reader. I did appreciate the narrative of what it's like to be a female captain in a male-dominated space and Clark's story is definitely an inspiration to young women looking for a non-traditional role model.
Was really excited about this and hoping to identify with Liz Clark as a woman passionate about ocean activities and the environment but was very disappointed. The first third of the book really slaps you in the face with immense privilege and lack of self awareness. It does get better later on but is not well written and hard to follow. Not worth the read in my opinion.
The beginning felt slow, but then, wow--this book just blew me away with the combination of Captain Clark's stories of adventure, messages of environmentalism, and musings of bettering the world and oneself.
Didn’t finish. Made it 25% of the way and couldn’t drag myself along anymore. This book is awful. Rich girl with rich parents gets funding from more rich people to sail a boat on a journey of vapid self discovery.
Deniz ve tekne yolculuğunun bu kadar sıkıntılı ve bir yandan da harika olduğunu bilmiyordum. Sörf yapmaktan anlamam ama bu kitabı çok beğendim. Doğa ile bir olmak ne güzel. We are all stardusts.
It was inspiring to read her adventure of learning to captain her own sailboat around the world - often without any crew, and to find what she needed while navigating various languages and cultures on the lands she passed along the way. The hospitality of fellow sailors was heartwarming, and her exploration of nature and her own abilities and limits were some of the best aspects of her story. Toward the end especially it felt more like a book on environmental activism, and maybe even self-help. I felt she could have been more effective if she had kept to the story and memoir style (“show, don’t tell”). Still, the first half of the book made it worth the read, especially if you’ve ever dreamt of sailing around the world. I loved watching her go from amateur sailor to a confident sea captain as she faced the challenges at sea and learned from them.
For readers of true sailing adventure stories this one checks all of the boxes. There is adventure and natural beauty. There is introspection and personal growth. There is deep appreciation for the environment, nature and different cultures. There is love and heartache. Most of all there is a person in the author that can be admired for her willingness to take a chance; and for her honesty about her personal challenges. I finished thinking I would happily spend a few weeks cruising with her.
Listened to the audiobook (narrated by the author herself). Great read, thoroughly enjoyed & has some amazing pockets of wisdom throughout, although quite a privileged beginning to the book I thought. What an inspiring & crazy voyage — loved the surfing, nature, self reflections & wāhine power.
“Bugs and beauty queens, immigrants and indigenous, rich and poor, furry and scaled; we are all struggling, striving, loving, and breathing on this green-and-blue ship flying through space—each with a purpose that combines to form the incomprehensible beautiful mandala of our collective meaning”
I am beyond inspired! Liz describes travelling by sailing just perfectly. This was the perfect reflection.
I read this for my book club and having little interest in either sailing or surfing, it was a rough start. I had no interest in the mechanics of the boat and the trip prep. However, as the sailing life began you are immersed in the day to day of the traveling life with associated relationships, joys, fears and setbacks. It was satisfying to follow Liz Clark's growth both as a sailor and as an independent adult a journey that, like for all of us, continues
This is the story of surfer / sailer Captain Liz Clark as she takes on the adventure of a lifetime, sailing around the world on her sailboat, Swell. With the support of her family, friends, and mentor Barry, Liz pursues her dream. Liz's efforts and patience ultimately morph her ocean dream into her real life.
Reinforcing the notion that life is about the journey, not the destination, Liz speaks from the heart about her many trials, tribulations and triumphs throughout her multi-year voyage. Along the way, she deepens her connection to, understanding of, and respect for the natural world, the wisdom and culture of native people, and herself. She shares her adventures with a raw and honest blend of reverence, vibrancy and authenticity. And in the wake of the most difficult of circumstances, Liz emerges with a deep appreciation, passion, and relentless zest for life, proving that she can weather any storm. After all, the seas are always changing.
Liz's emotional and beautifully told stories demonstrate that pursuing a life of passion is not for the faint of heart. She encounters endless external obstacles, including and not limited to threatening seas, difficult people, abusive relationships, food poisoning, persistent sea sickness, illness from contaminated waters, sprains, Bells Palsy, major surf wipe-outs, financial woes, leaking pipes, torn sails, damaged hulls, lost anchors, faulty navigation, rats, roaches, and poisonous centipedes, and language and cultural barriers, not to mention the internal struggles including battering bouts of loneliness, depression, doubt, fear, imposter syndrome, guilt, abandonment, heartbreak, and nagging existential questions like "why am I here?" "what is my purpose?" and "am I enough / too much?" Yet through it all Liz refuses to "give up the ship," and always manages to reconnect with a sense of wonder, pleasure, and inspiration from her chosen life, even in the face of such extreme and relentless hardships.
Liz is able to reflect and emerge from her trials with a compass of gratitude pointing her home. Through sharing her lived experience, she reminds us that we have a choice about whether we see the universe as friend or foe. To Liz, the universe is a friend. She doesn't let her challenges blind her to the immense beauty, wonder, mystery and pleasures of the world. She presents us with beautiful depictions of the ocean, wildlife, island tapestries and skies above, the cooperative nature of the cruiser community, the kindness of locals, the joy of friendship, the strength, resilience and beauty of a body at work and play, and the simple, everyday pleasures of a fresh meal, clean clothes, a soft pillow, a sunrise, a bright moon, a snuggle with a kitty, and so much more.
I appreciated Liz's honesty as she shares the evolution of her life philosophy and personal truth. She doesn't shy away from the harsh realities of monumental social issues like the threat of climate change, the damage of colonialism and white centering, and the human-lead destruction of our planet in the name of capitalism and a need for "more more more." Liz contemplates her role within each of these issues, and constantly pushes herself to learn more and do better.
Although I am almost exactly the same age as Liz (I turn 40 this year, just 1 week before she does - Taurus-power!), she and I are different in so many ways. Liz was raised on the water, discovered and nurtured her love of the sea and the root of her passions early in life, seems to naturally connect with others and is comfortable asking for and receiving help, and dared to bet on herself early on in her life, taking big risks as she threw herself into a life of adventure in support of her dreams. I grew up in the landlocked in the Midwest (save for our beautiful lakes), have yet to land the plane on my true intentions and dreams, carry a fear and limited knowledge of the ocean (albeit a deep, reverent passion and fascination), am not a natural people person (introvert through and through), and tend to make decisions in the name of fear, finances, and security rather than love and passion (though I'm working on it)!
And yet, despite all the ways that Liz and I differ, our most fundamental desires are the same: to live with purpose, to love and be loved, to feel connected and in tune with self and the universe (even if I'm "behind" - but I remind myself that life is not a race or a competition). I believe these are universal truths. Liz and I also share a love of yoga, meditation, Buddhist wisdom, and cats.
I jotted down a few of my favorite quotes and lessons from Swell, including (and not limited to):
"Life is hard by the yard, but a cinch by the inch" - Liz's dad (quoting her grandmother). Staying present is the key to approaching challenges great and small. We need not overwhelm and discourage ourselves - one step at a time along the path! Liz (re)learns this lesson when she finds herself grounded in a boatyard in Bora Bora for months on end, facing a seemingly unending list of repairs to Swell.
"God watches out for the courageous." - Shannon (aka "Snaggs"), Liz's friend and crew companion in an early stretch of her journey. It's important that we venture outside of our comfort zones in order to experience growth and a deeper appreciation and gratitude for what we have. And even when we are unwillingly pushed into difficult circumstances, we have the opportunity to "turn the poison into medicine."
"Don't ponder others" - Buddhist Lojong #26. Liz quotes this lojong and learns this lesson with a difficult acquaintance on a small island. I too am guilty of contemplating the weaknesses of others as a way to give myself a boost. However, time and again, it's a practice that backfires. Tearing others down doesn't actually build us up. There is not a soul among us who isn't facing hardship and pain. Rather than stepping on one another's necks, we can do so much more good by accepting that we are all walking our own unique, often difficult paths to discovery, and lead with compassion rather than schadenfreude.
"Seeing other ways of life makes the world feel more spacious." -Liz. Experiencing the world, nature, wildlife, and other cultures is what helps to fuel our connection and compassion for others. I admit, I had never even heard of the Republic of Kiribati before reading this book, and had to look up some locations on a map and Google images to achieve a better sense of place. As somewhat of a homebody, I'm not deeply guided by a sense of wanderlust, but it is important to experience the world first-hand. I vow to learn and travel more, with the intent to expand my world-view and capacity for compassion.
"What is security with no freedom, money with no time, work with no passion?" - Liz ... "It takes courage and creativity to think outside of society's box." - Barry, Liz's mentor. The truth is, Western culture stacks the deck against us, in a system that devalues dreams in the name of wealth accumulation. But, it can be done, and Liz's story can serve as an awakening to us all.
To Liz, thank you for sharing your story, living your passion, and staying present and accepting of the here-and-now. As your mentor Barry once told you, "Keep going, dear. People will take notice. Maybe a few more dreams will be chased because of you."
This is an easy read and definitely a page turner. I could not put it down and flew through it.
I love reading about and watching YouTube videos of people who are living unconventional lives. It's interesting, intriguing, inspiring, and often fascinating. I also love stories of people who follow their dreams and when it takes them to places few have been before.
I've been following Liz's blog for a couple of years now and couldn't wait to read her book. It's an awesome and inspiring memoir about her adventures sailing and surfing around the world. It's also a deeply personal, raw, and emotional story about herself, her life, her relationships, and her spiritual journey. The book is about two journeys, her physical and travel journey on the open ocean sailing to so many beautiful and amazing places and her deep inner spiritual journey that she takes throughout this experience. They beautifully intertwine and go hand in hand. Reading this book is like getting to live vicariously through her and experience the journey second hand through her eyes. It also calls out the importance of climate change and how the oceans, animals, and people are being affected. She highlights the ever important fact that we need to work with nature, not against her.
If you've been following Liz on social media and reading her blog I'm sure you will definitely enjoy the book, or if you're a sailing and/or surfing enthusiast, or just a person who enjoys hearing about adventure and people following their dreams and staying true to themselves (like I do) you'll enjoy this a lot.
Swell is a lot like what I imagine Capt. Liz's journeys to be like. There are long jaunts of time where the narrative is almost ambient in it's beauty like a nature sounds CD, filled with technical nautical details only experienced sailors would understand, punctuated by repeated bouts of drydock maintenance work and menial landfall tasks like gathering supplies. The rewards come in the form of terrifying weather, descriptive tours of some remote ports-of-call, drama provided by the captain's surprisingly numerous interpersonal relationships, a wee bit of surfing (not enough for this reader...it's in the title!), and the author's deep relationship with the natural world she obviously loves so much.
There's a sense though, that she has some trouble conveying that experience to others. One gets the hint that her journey hath brought some revelations about herself (also in the title) discovered as she spends countless days and nights exploring the nether reaches of the Pacific. Unfortunately I did not emerge from this experience with the knowledge of what lessons were learned or any implementable tips for personal growth. Mostly, I feel sad for our planet and it's oceans, and I think about Amelia the cat a lot.