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320 pages, Hardcover
First published August 4, 2015
"Long walks in open spaces are like ujjayi breath for the mind. Human feet evolved to measure out steady steps on hot, dry, flat land, and the human brain evolved to absorb boundless geology at the speed of three miles per hour. The sheer volume of lucid air fills the mind, the distant skyline paces of a spirit level of peace. The expanse around you unburdens the space within."I finished this as part of the 24in48 readathon in July 2016. I actually thought I might take this back to the library unread because I had already read two non-fiction books from Mali but once I started reading this one I had to keep going. I think I was expecting it to be more dry, more of a journalistic account, but Badkhen winds in archeological facts about the region, history, her own story, and I was pulled in. Her dedication not only in spending an entire year with the Fulani but in learning the language and attempting to gain understanding of their lives through their perspectives would have made most anthropologists proud.
"'Is there a land without death, Anna Ba?' she said. 'We are used to leaving everything.'I learned a lot about how Islam is practiced among the nomadic groups, as it has been practiced for centuries. Fulani men learn to recite the Koran before they ever have a chance to read or learn Arabic (and understand what it is that it says.) They follow most of the traditions, including Ramadan, although there are some different interpretations on halal. In the year Badkhen traveled with the Fulani, Ramadan coincided with the start of rainy season and the impetus for a major relocation.
To spend a lifetime walking away. To bid farewell over and over, all the time. To anchor your heart to the next campsite and then move on. To have your heart broken and reset like a bone."
"We broke fast with boiri and dates and millet toh, our first meal in seventeen hours. We drank tea and river water and more tea. Cicadas drowned out thunder. After dinner Hassan took the cattle out to pasture. The storm crashed into the camp all at once. The air filled suddenly with thick dust an dafter a few beats a tremendous squall spun into the plateau...."It was interesting to see the Fulani family unit portrayed in the juxtaposition between commercial goods (pop culture t-shirts, canned food, plastic) and traditional ways (still moving between areas with their cattle), traditional threats (flood, famine, other groups like the Bwa) vs. modern day (ISIS, Al Qaeda, etc.) As I know from the previous two books about Mali, some of the outlying areas along the Niger river have served as training grounds for terrorist groups, making the nomadic life more dangerous than it previously was. Because some terrorists have masqueraded as nomads, the Fulani have had to carry identification that ties them to a specific country, which isn't how they see themselves.
"If you are a Fulani you travel with your cows, with your family. Not all by yourself. The Fulani are always moving. But the movement is never arbitrary."I also like the writing in this book. I feel Badkhen is able to describe how the Savanna feels, not just the facts. This is the major element that kept me reading. I also added ten books to my to-read list based on writings she mentions in passing. Clearly the book is well researched but it does not read as academic. Her connections to the people she traveled with is clear, and I can only imagine that it was difficult to leave. There are drawings throughout the book by the author; I would have loved to also see some photography of this rich landscape and the people in it.