Chouinard was on the fringes of society, and he loved it. He embraced the life of the dirtbag, reveling in the knowledge that the activity he found most fulfilling—climbing up granite walls—had no social or economic value. Climbing was an act of rebellion as he saw it, from a conventional life and from society at large. While other young adults were headed off to work, Chouinard determined that his time was better spent in the woods.
Despite the shredded fingertips, throbbing muscles, and strained joints, he missed the transcendent experience of being on the wall. And while it took him three years to fully regain his confidence, he was soon at it again, this time going even higher. In climbing, Chouinard had found not just a hobby but an identity. It was more than a sport, it was a puzzle, a community, and a grueling physical challenge. It was a way of life, and it would eventually become his livelihood.
Rating: 5/5
Researching Patagonia was also an opportunity to test my conviction that business can be a force for good. It’s easy to be cynical about our highly unequal economy, and it’s vital—especially as a journalist—to be critical of for-profit corporations. But it’s just as important to shine a light on what’s working. Without stories that provide some glimmer of hope, we forfeit the possibility of being inspired. Without good role models, we’re left without a playbook for effecting positive change in the world. Not every company can be Patagonia, and no one can re-create Chouinard’s wildly abundant life. Yet all businesses and everyone who works has much to learn from the way the Patagonia team forged a new path through the wilds of late capitalism.
Many books offer pat lessons and actionable strategies for getting ahead in business. This narrative doesn’t lend itself to that sort of tidy analysis. The story of Patagonia isn’t a self-help treatise. It’s more like a Zen koan. And at the center of the story is a man who was a revolutionary three times over: in sports, commerce, and charity.
His whole life had led to this moment. A man who could have had anything, who walked away from billions of dollars, who scaled mountains, lost friends, and built empires, Chouinard, in the twilight of his life, wanted nothing more than to be alone on a river, rod and reel in hand, immersed in the beauty of the natural world.
In the wilderness, Chouinard hunted and ate porcupines, grouse, and squirrels. To supplement his meager diet, he turned to fishing, finding utility in his boyhood hobby. He often made do on 50 cents to $1 a day, eating little more than potatoes or oatmeal. Once, on his way to the Rockies, he and his friend Ken Weeks bought a case of dented cans of cat food, five cents apiece, and ate them over the course of a summer. Another time, he absconded to Mexico for a month, sustaining himself on tropical fruit and fish, chasing away scorpions, and using votive candles from the nearby church to wax his surfboard. “I was a dirtbag climber,” he said. “I had no money whatsoever. I was eating cat food, ground squirrels. I would sneak into yards to steal fruit.”
“He taught me that when you buy a tool, you buy the absolute best tool you can get and keep it for the rest of your life,” Chouinard said. “That’s much better than buying a cheap tool and having it break, buying another one, having that break.”
They soon came back with a postage stamp–sized piton they had fashioned by taking a power hacksaw blade, breaking off the end, and fitting their sling into the blade’s hole. They made it most of the way up, but as Chouinard attempted to hammer the blade into a crack near the top, it shattered into pieces, forcing them to abort the climb again. The failure offered an additional insight: this piton needed to be made not of the everyday steel Chouinard usually used, but of an exceptionally durable alloy. That led Chouinard and Frost to collaborate and design an entirely new piece of gear. Just half an inch long, composed of chrome-nickel steel, and the width of a razor blade, they called it the Realized Ultimate Reality Piton, or RURP, and put it into production.
As the seasons passed and he kept putting up new routes, Chouinard became a fixture at Camp 4 in Yosemite National Park, the epicenter of the climbing subculture. Yet even there, he was an outsider among outsiders. While others paid the requisite fees to pitch their tents at the prepared campsites, Chouinard and his friends slept among the boulders in the woods after they had overstayed their two-week permit, calling themselves the Valley Cong, a reference to the rebel Viet Cong forces in Vietnam.
All the while, Tompkins and Chouinard egged each other on, testing out new ideas and pushing their physical limits. While their values were deeply aligned, they had profoundly different views about how to run a business and how to spend their winnings. Tompkins was a maximalist, looking to grow his companies, make a killing, and live like a king. Chouinard was a minimalist, opting to refrain from excessive growth, proceed cautiously when it came to financial matters, and live like a pauper. It was a friendship that made a dent in the universe, and to fully understand the story of Chouinard and Patagonia, it’s essential to understand the story of Tompkins and Esprit.
In long talks on these day trips, they shared a foundational epiphany that would shape both their lives. Humans, they realized, were messing up the environment. With overdevelopment, industry, and the mundane but resource-intensive work of simply getting by, everyone on Earth was playing a role in the ecosystem’s destruction, and everyone, Chouinard and Tompkins came to believe, had a responsibility to make things better. “Early on, we recognized that we humans were destroying our home planet,” Chouinard said, “and that each of us, in our own way, was responsible to protect and restore the wild nature that we loved.”
With his move from pitons to chocks, Chouinard had overhauled his product lineup in order to take better care of the planet. Now he was using the power of his purse to support grassroots environmental activists, taking the first step on a philanthropic journey that would shape his career, and the world.
During one of his extended stays at Camp 4 in Yosemite, Chouinard witnessed an altercation between an unruly driver and a plucky young woman that would change his life. As a car passed through the camp, the driver tossed an empty beer can out the window. The woman chased down the car and told the driver to pick the can up. A passenger in the car offered a middle finger in return, prompting the now irate woman to rip off the car’s license plate with her bare hands and turn it over to a park ranger.
On a wall in the office, a quote attributed to Henry David Thoreau provided inspiration: “Simplification of means and elevation of ends is the goal.” A key to the office was hidden under a rock, allowing workers to come and go as they pleased, with some eccentric craftsmen hammering away in the middle of the night if they chose. A couple black Labs were always lurking around. Climbers would drop by, sometimes earning a bit of money packing boxes or helping sort inventory. The parking lot was still a party. The place still cleared out when the waves got going. “The people working with him were a box full of misfit toys,” said Hall Stratton, who worked in the shop.
As a blacksmith, Chouinard had developed an elegant touchmark—the small design element, often engraved in a metal object, that identified its craftsman. It was a simple diamond with the letter C inside. That touchmark appeared on most Chouinard Equipment products, and a version of it is still in use today, as the logo for Black Diamond. But by the early ’70s, Chouinard needed another distinctive visual flourish, in this case, a logo for Patagonia.
Chouinard asked two local freelance artists to come up with dueling versions of a design. Jocelyn Slack was one of those who got the assignment. Looking for inspiration, she leafed through a guidebook that described climbing in the region and came across an image of Fitz Roy, which the Fun Hogs had summitted eight years earlier. Studying the routes, Slack used a pencil to rough out a silhouette of the peaks. Eventually, going back and forth with Chouinard, she added some color to her simple mountain range. The company’s name was set in lowercase letters below the mountains, and the company had its logo.
Chouinard was never the most methodical leader. He didn’t lay out a grand strategy and diligently execute it with precision. Forethought was never Chouinard’s forte. Instead, his genius came in bursts of spontaneity, a dynamic that calls to mind his performance on the rock walls he scaled as a climber. Just as he would have to make split-second decisions while hanging hundreds of feet above the Yosemite Valley floor, leaping for the next crag and holding on with his fingertips, so too would he redirect Patagonia in an instant when he sensed something was off. And as was the case when he was a climber, he usually made the right move.
Then Chouinard would begin the lesson: “Quality is objective,” he would say, arguing that the coffee beans either were or weren’t excellent. There was no in between. That would get folks going. “Quality is not objective,” some would protest. “It’s a matter of taste.”
The same year “Reality Check” published, Patagonia and Smith & Hawken, another American clothing company, agreed to buy 1 million buttons made from the tagua nut, a type of seed that grows on palm trees in the Ecuadorian rainforest. Polished tagua nuts resemble ivory and were a popular material for buttons before plastic became ubiquitous. Conservation International helped broker the deal, and Patagonia paid a premium for the nut buttons, accepting the extra cost as a worthwhile trade for using fewer petroleum products. The experiment lasted just a year. By 1992, the buttons were cracking, and Patagonia recalled the items that featured tagua. It turned out there was a reason plastic buttons had become the norm.
Another time, after a trip to Japan, Chouinard demanded that the company begin stocking a type of eco-friendly Japanese fishing shoe called Reef Walkers. McDivitt protested, arguing that they would never sell. Chouinard pulled rank and demanded that she place an order. McDivitt relented, but before doing so took out a black marker and wrote, in graffiti on the rafters above her desk, “My boss made me buy 20,000 pairs of Reef Walkers.” Then she made Chouinard sign it. Chouinard got his way, and Patagonia ordered the Reef Walkers. But McDivitt was right: the shoes didn’t sell. (The graffiti is still there.)
In the end, the lesson was clear. If a product doesn’t work and needs to be replaced right away, there’s no way it can be considered good for the environment; if it doesn’t last, there’s no way it can be sustainable. “Durability and high quality are key elements to environmental responsibility,” Stanley said. “The world doesn’t need a lot more crappy products.” But before Chouinard could double down on Patagonia’s quality, he would have to let go of the business that got him started.
Chouinard would dig in his heels. “No,” he would say. “It’s about consistency. It’s about a product fulfilling its function.” He pressed his students, challenging them to define a perfect shirt. If someone suggested it was a custom-tailored, Italian dress shirt made from the finest cotton, Chouinard would scoff. How would that shirt hold up in a washing machine? How long would it last? A delicate shirt couldn’t be considered quality. These lessons divided the staff—designers who obsessed over every stitch appreciated Chouinard’s unwavering stance, while executives who saw the world in units sold thought he was being too aspirational. But with the esoteric lessons, Chouinard was trying to transmit to his employees the same fixation on quality that had for so long animated him. Unless Patagonia’s jackets and shorts and pants and fleeces worked perfectly, the company might as well not make them at all.
The gamble quickly paid off. Customers bought into the environmental messaging, and within a few months, Patagonia was able to raise the prices of the organic garments to cover all its additional costs. One of Chouinard’s core beliefs—that consumers would pay for quality—had been validated at the very moment it mattered most. And in doing so, Patagonia had made a statement to the industry: conventional cotton, despite being cheap and easy to procure, was a poisonous fabric that could be abandoned without imperiling the business. “The difference between an organic cotton field and a conventional cotton field is night and day, life and death,” Olsen said.
Patagonia’s efforts to remake its supply chain in a more environmentally friendly manner culminated in 1997, when the company hosted its first-ever conference for suppliers in Ventura. Flying in farmers, spinners, ginners, dyers, and stitchers from around the globe, the company spent days schooling its network of commercial partners on its unorthodox philosophy and drilling into them the idea that for Patagonia, preserving the natural world was a core value. That alone was a revolutionary assertion. For most suppliers, their primary value was profits—they were in business to get paid; not much more, not much less. Inasmuch as any of them thought of an end customer, it was perhaps Patagonia the company or maybe Patagonia’s customers. None of them thought it was the planet.
For days, Patagonia executives challenged the company’s suppliers, pressing them to think more expansively about their role. Between surf breaks and barbecues, suppliers were presented with detailed assessments of how their individual industries were polluting the environment and then sorted into breakout groups to brainstorm ways they might improve their processes. “We’ve spent the last ten or fifteen years with all of you talking about quality,” Sweeney, who was instrumental in organizing the event, told the suppliers. “We now need to talk about the quality of life on Earth.”
The complaints didn’t bother Chouinard. The company wasn’t making weapons or ammunition, he reasoned. It was simply making clothing. “Bras don’t kill people,” Chouinard said. “People kill people.” Besides, he was a veteran himself, having served in Korea. He could sympathize with the plight of the grunt who already had to endure the petty indignities and grueling monotony of army life. That was bad enough; why not at least make him comfortable? As a seasoned mountaineer, he also knew how important it was to have the right kind of clothes in foul weather environments. And while he had grown up speaking French, he was a lifelong American and a patriot, grateful to have the freedom to be an outsider—and a successful one at that—in a country where even a blacksmith without a college degree could make a fortune. “I had no qualms about any of that,” he said. “I want our troops to be comfortable, and we make the most comfortable clothing for hot and cold conditions. So that was it.”
It was just the four of them. Yvon and Malinda Chouinard. Doug and Kris Tompkins. As the calendar flipped from ’03 to ’04, they roamed the Chacabuco Valley in the Chilean backcountry, piloting a four-wheel drive truck through alien terrain marked by geothermal springs, red rivers, and black lakes. This was land that the Tompkinses were angling to buy. A 173,000-acre parcel virtually untouched by humans was on the market, and they knew that securing it could help fulfill what had become their overarching dream: creating a national park that would protect one of the greatest landscapes in South America.
And when it comes to fossil fuels, Patagonia limits the use of single-use plastics when it can, but there is no way to ship its wares around the world without burning huge amounts of jet fuel, shipping fuel, and gasoline. Its factories also continue to wrap many items in individual plastic bags. The company has made great strides since it began its environmental journey so many years ago, and yet with every step it takes forward, it finds new problems it must address. Even after a half century’s work, Chouinard understood that the elusive goal of a business that was actually good for the planet remained out of reach. “Patagonia is not a sustainable company,” he said. “There’s no such thing. I look at our philanthropy as not charity but as the cost of doing business.”
Was Chouinard satisfied? After so many years, so many close calls, so much gained and so much lost, so much given away, was he at peace? “I feel like I could die tomorrow, and the company is going to continue for the next 50 years, and it’s going to continue doing the right thing, and I don’t have to be around,” he said. “I’ve never been a micromanager. I’m the company philosopher. I’m the entrepreneur that comes up with crazy ideas. Sometimes they worked, sometimes they didn’t. But I feel a big relief that I’ve put my life in order. And now I’m going to work on making everything simpler and simpler for myself.”
Those intertwined benefits—good for farmers, good for the planet—explain why Lightfoot is one of the country’s biggest champions of kernza, using it in the beers and pastas sold under the Patagonia Provisions brand. “The mission of Patagonia is to save our home planet, which is a beautifully simple mission,” he said as we sipped a kernza lager under the stars. “And if you think about all the different ways that the business can help fulfill that mission, food is the most important lever that Patagonia can pull.”
And yes, the company needed to be profitable. On this front, Patagonia was set up for success. It had no long-term debt, no antsy investors, no greedy shareholders. Customers were more stoked about the brand than ever, thanks in part to Chouinard’s own story and the activism and the conservation. It just had to keep hitting those roughly 10 percent margins and there would be ample resources for Holdfast each year.
Quality was the tough one. Chouinard wanted the company to double down on its craftsmanship. Not just the stitching and the blend of its fabrics, but the sustainability of its materials, the ethics of its suppliers, all of it. Unless Patagonia kept pushing itself to be more responsible, what was the point? “We’re not a perfect company,” he said. “But at least we’re recognizing it, and we’re doing something about it.”
And it was undeniable that with its focus on sustainable business, the activism, and the coalition building, Patagonia had made an impact well beyond Ventura. The company may not be able to singlehandedly change capitalism, but Chouinard’s fingerprints are all over the business world. When companies take better care of their employees, when they provide childcare, when they let employees be themselves in the office, that is the legacy of Patagonia. When corporations push their vendors to treat their workers well, when they try to root out toxic materials in the supply chain, when they do the right thing even when it costs a bit more, there, too, is the legacy of Chouinard. When CEOs take a stand, talk back to the president, and encourage customers to vote, that’s in part Patagonia’s doing, too. And then there were the national parks in Chile and Argentina, all the sustainability groups Patagonia had cofounded, the 1% for the Planet grants, the ownership change, and now the money flowing from Holdfast.