In RIVER-HORSE, the preeminent chronicler of American back roads -- who has given us the classics BLUE HIGHWAYS and PRAIRYERTH -- recounts his singular voyage on American waters from sea to sea. Along the route, he offers a lyrical and ceaselessly fascinating shipboard perspective on the country's rivers, lakes, canals, and towns. Brimming with history, drama, humor, and wisdom, RIVER-HORSE belongs in the pantheon of American travel literature. In his most ambitious journey ever, Heat-Moon sets off aboard a small boat he named Nikawa ("river horse" in Osage) from the Atlantic at New York Harbor in hopes of entering the Pacific near Astoria, Oregon. He and his companion, Pilotis, struggle to cover some five thousand watery miles -- more than any other cross-country river traveler has ever managed -- often following in the wakes of our most famous explorers, from Henry Hudson to Lewis and Clark. En route, the voyagers confront massive floods, submerged rocks, dangerous weather, and their own doubts about whether they can complete the trip. But the hard days yield up incomparable strangers generous with help and eccentric tales, landscapes unchanged since Sacagawea saw them, riverscapes flowing with a lively past, and the growing belief that efforts to protect our lands and waters are beginning to pay off. And, throughout its course, the expedition enjoys coincidences so breathtaking as to suggest the intervention of a divine and witty Providence. Teeming with humanity and high adventure, Heat-Moon's account is an unsentimental and original arteriogram of our nation at the edge of the millennium. Masterly in its own right, RIVER-HORSE, when taken with BLUE HIGHWAYS and PRAIRYERTH, forms the capstone of a peerless and timeless trilogy.
William Least Heat-Moon, byname of William Trogdon is an American travel writer of English, Irish and Osage Nation ancestry. He is the author of a bestselling trilogy of topographical U.S. travel writing.
His pen name came from his father saying, "I call myself Heat Moon, your elder brother is Little Heat Moon. You, coming last, therefore, are Least." Born in Kansas City, Missouri, Heat-Moon attended the University of Missouri where he earned bachelor's, master's, and Ph.D. degrees in English, as well as a bachelor's degree in photojournalism. He also served as a professor of English at the university.
There is no hiding in writing. You can run the River Of No Return in central Idaho, you can float the Xingu in central Brazil, raft the Grand Canyon of the wild Colorado, drive the Pacific Coast Highway, travel to faraway lands and cultures, or ride the rails and watch for fires in desolate, lookout towers in the middle of nowhere – you can ride and ride and ride, and run and run and run, but if you choose to write about your journey, you cannot hide who you are. William Least Heat-Moon, author of River Horse: A Voyage Across America is a curmudgeon—a second-order curmudgeon. (See below.) And on top of that, his writing suffers from way, way, way too many metaphors, similes, and analogies. Heat-Moon is in love with himself, his writing style, and his worldview; and is bitter and angry that others don’t fully appreciate his talents. That’s what I get from reading this book. That said, there are some things I like about this story. It is informative and authoritative. I did get a sense of the land and I liked the historical references to the Lewis and Clark expedition and also the local folklores and color.
This is travel writing, a book about Heat-Moon’s 100+ day journey of 5,288 miles across America in 1995, mostly by major waterways, in a 22 foot motorboat, named Nikawa, which in the Osage language means, river horse. And, as one of the author’s travel companion’s notes spelled backward is “Awakin.” Wishful thinking, methinks. If by awakening one means insight into self. Not much of that going on here. The writing style is NPRish. Contrived. Overdone. Too clever. Metaphors and whatnots are for the purpose of expanding understanding — Making sense of the unknown by the knower of, to the unknower of—the unknown. Not to show off but to simplify. For example: The Snake River. Or, The River Of No Return. Which then Heat-Moon dresses up as in his chapter heading: “Bungholes and Bodacious Bounces.” But then, and this is part of what I like about the book, Heat-Moon gives a good declarative, simple opening paragraph that describes the physical characteristics of the canyon, followed by excerpts from L & C Expedition’s Journal and tops that with this local lore descriptor: ‘“Creation chopped it [the Canyon] out with a hatchet.’” (circa 1900) One can imagine a huge god-like man, say Paul Bunyan, standing over the rocky mountains with an axe and chopping away, and then what that would look like – the canyon that the Salmon River carved out in central Idaho. But then one of his (=Heat-Moon’s) pal’s (like attracts like) chimes in with this, ‘“This isn’t a river – it’s a wet elevator.’” (pg. 430 – both) Huh? This kind of muddling metaphor is a constant. Here’s another one: “Things unacknowledged were about to claw into the light like moles desperate in a flooding field.” (pg. 489) Which is a re-statement of what he mused 16 pages earlier, “… – my life off the river caught up that morning …I’d given that other existence time to find me and bring with it much I’d recently failed to do well or even adequately – marriage preeminently – so that when I fully woke, even before I thought I heard the wind, I wanted nothing to do with anything, and lay wishing I could evaporate like a creek when feeder streams dwindle in summer heat until one day the water is gone, leaving behind only an imprint in its bed.” Sh__t. Heat-Moon was 56 when he took this trip, and I know some readers do like this kind of self-wallowing, but it’s not uplifting nor inspiring … makes me glad I haven’t encountered Heat-Moon on any of my travels! It’s NPRish, yes? His worldview is tree-hugging liberal (Nothing wrong with that. I lean that way myself.); and he seems to look down his nose at most of the people he encounters along his journey. This is where the “second-order curmudgeon” comes from. I’ve taken that from David Wallace’s account in his novel The Broom of the System, where Wallace speaks (via a character) about “a second-order vain person.” Which is – pretending not to be vain when you are – which can also be applied to Heat-Moon. So curmudgeon: bad tempered, disapproving, disagreeing person, which is how I find Heat-Moon. And yes, I have some of that in me. Most writers do. But he pretends he’s not, folksin’ up to the folks he encounters on his journey, and then secretly belittling them when he has no further use for them. Anyway, that’s my impression.
I like this kind of book – a travel-log, but not this one. I much preferred Road Angels: Searching for Home on America’s Coast of Dreams (2001) by Kent Nerburn.
”Oh! He who has never been afar let him once go from home to know what home is, for as you draw neigh again to your old native river he seems to pour through you with all his tides, and in your enthusiasm you swear to build alters like milestones along both his sacred banks” ~Herman Melville, Redburn
”Here, as everywhere, whether mountains or men, a river finds faults, weaknesses, rifts, and exploits them. And that’s why rivers outlast rocks…and men.”
”Our journey is seas to sea, salt to salt, tide to tide.”
William Least Heat Moon conceived and charted a journey across America by its waterways — coast to coast, nearly 5,000 miles, minimum portages, through the heartland of America. With his boat christened Nikawa (Osage for River Horse) he began in the Atlantic in New York Harbor, and ended in the Pacific by the mouth of the Columbia River. The Hudson River, the Erie Canal, Lake Erie, the Allegheny River, the Ohio, the Mississippi, the Missouri, the Snake River, and the Columbia River were his watery interstates.
Along the way, the author shares the history and topography of the rivers and the shores that he passes. He explains the differences between cities that treat rivers as their front doors, ones that treat them as their back doors, and ones that nearly hide the fact that a river flows through it at all. The Journals of Lewis and Clark serve as his scriptures, a text he returns to again and again as much of his journey followed in their path. He had companions on this journey, and due to the nature of river travel, most of his human interaction and conversation are with them rather than those ashore. Most strikingly, he gives a view of the vastness of this continental country from a watery perspective that few ever see.
3.5 rounded down. Normally, I would have rounded this review up, but there was something about the book that I found unsettling. Perhaps it was the typical thing about travel books that always bothers me--people taking weeks or months to go traveling leaving behind the responsibilities that the rest of us have. At least the author didn't have a family as so many do, abandoning them so a book can be written. It might have been his arrogance as if he 'deserved' to be successful or the question about the money spent on the 5000+ mile trip. Don't get me wrong, if you've got the money then traveling is a fine way to spend it.
I'm not quite sure what bothered me about his vaunted 'luck', but the trip itself was interesting, especially the eastern waters. One thing I thought was pretentious was calling his crewmates by titles, instead of names. I guess in the end it seemed a triumph for one man, (unlike the Lewis and Clark Expedition which he frequently quotes) with a bit of glory for those who who risked just as much to help him get to the Pacific. Let's hope they were well paid.
Haven't navigated all the way through yet. So far, Least Heat Moon's 'deep map' approach to digging headlong into the (recent) history of particular corners of north America is enlightening and surprisingly fast-paced (even if it's not the methodological novelty it's cracked up to be). His choice to refer to his touring companion as 'Pilotis', ostensibly so as to honor his friend's humble wish for anonymity, becomes grating about two pages in; and there's a lot of smug 'Year in Provence'-style celebration of frosty brews with quirky locals after a hard day of yachting, &c. But overall, the writing -- at heart, it's a classic American river odyssey -- flows along entertainingly, and you're bound to learn some neat trivia along the way.
Heat-Moon's (fellow Missourian)journal of his transcontinental river journey from the Atlantic to the Pacific is enchanting. I felt I was in the boat with him as he vividly described the landscape, the perils of river travel, and the vastness of this country's wilderness. In the best tradition of Twain's "Life on the Mississippi" and Lewis and Clark's journals, Heat-Moon provides great historical narrative interspersed with his descriptions of the mighty Hudson, Ohio, Mississippi, Missouri, Salmon, and Columbia rivers as they are today. A great trip!
when my wanderlust threatens to overcome me, all i have to do is take out my copy of this book and read a few chapters. william least-heat moon is one of my favourite authors, and his acount of travelling across america by boat is extraordinary. the people he encounters, the adventures he goes on, they all satisfy my hobo nature.
This is the story of Heat-Moon's travels across the United States by boat, with a few companions, in a 22-foot boat and canoe. Starting at Elizabeth, NJ and ending at Astoria, OR, he and his companions travel over 5000 miles by boat. They do have to portage over and around a number of dams; some dams have locks which enable them to pass through on the boat.
As we learn in the process of reading, he meticulously planned this trip for years. At times during the trip, the continuation of the trip was in jeopardy. But they persisted; well, he persisted and the others grudgingly complied. I learned much about rivers reading this, particularly about the different channels running through them and the difficulties of navigating upstream and downstream, in high water and in shallow water. Basically, if you don't know what you're doing, don't attempt this.
As with Heat-Moon's book of traveling the US by car, Blue Highways, one of the fascinating features of the book are the many different types of people who cross his path. You also learn about geography, and there are a lot of factual tidbits sprinkled throughout the book. For much of the Western part of his journey, he follows the trail of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, and quotes frequently from their journals.
Each river that he traverses is a different section of the book. An extended quote from another writer applicable to that river appears at the beginning of each section, and maps of the journey are sprinkled throughout, so that you get a visual idea as to the progress of the journey. I had no idea the Missouri River was as long and as treacherous as it is. He actually divided it into two sections, Lower and Upper. By the time they reached the end of the Missouri, I was as tired as he and his crew were.
Keep your dictionary handy when you read this book; Heat-Moon throws all kinds of esoteric and unfamiliar words at you. All in all, this is a good read, and a fascinating look at parts of the US that most of us will probably never see.
William Least Heat-Moon (pen name for William Trogdon) is a greatly gifted travel writer. River Horse is the last in a trilogy of which the two preceding books are Blue Highways and PrairyErth. They can be read in any order, though.
In River Horse, Heat-Moon, with a small crew of friends, travels from the Atlantic Ocean (starting out from New York Harbor) to the Pacific Ocean (the Oregon coast near Portland) almost exclusively by river. Although it is not possible to travel from coast to coast by river with no intervening land at all, Heat-Moon managed to plot a route that kept portaging to a bare mininum. With just a small dory boat and a canoe, he and his crew sailed up the Hudson to the Erie Canal, then on two connecting lakes -- Lake Erie and Lake Chautauqua -- to the Allegheny, to the Ohio, to the Mississippi, to the Missouri (the longest river in the U.S.), which took them to the Continental Divide. Up to that point they were sailing upstream -- against the current -- which of course was much more difficult than going downstream. After crossing the Continental Divide, of course, they were going downstream, on the Salmon River, to the Snake River, and finally to the Columbia River, which pours itself into the Pacific Ocean.
Heat-Moon has much to say about the pretty much criminal damage done to America's wildlife, waterways, and natural landscape by two centuries of polluting industry, hunting and fishing animal species into extinction and near-extinction, and a national system of close to a hundred hydroelectric dams and locks that have literally changed the course of rivers and topography, and have spelled annihilation for one of the most amazing biological phenomena ever to exist; namely, the yearly run of salmon to spawning grounds.
There is so much more, and it's not all depressing human arrogance and contempt for the astounding natural inheritance Europeans were given in a completely untouched continent. The cameraderie between Heat-Moon and his companions, and the ways they come to depend on each other on this 100-day voyage, is both laugh-out-loud funny and touching. Heat-Moon also describes in wonderful detail the marvelous diversity of human beings who live in the places they pass through. Lots of quaint and eccentric conversations and local color.
Four stars for this engaging, entertaining, inspirational, and informative read.
Oh man! I've been working on this book for a while. Once I'm finished with it I'm sure I'll give it four stars. I mean, I do like it. But like Blue Highways, Heat-Moon doesn't miss a detail or a bit of trivia and he doesn't miss an opportunity to share those things with you. The journey here is a SLOW one, it seems, because he offers so much so often. Bogs you down such that sometimes you just want to put your fingers in your ears and say, "Just open up the throttles and shut up for a minute, will ya?" But soon you start to miss his commentary. Until you have to put your fingers in your ears again.
When this is over, I'll be glad I was along for the ride. Three stars while I work my way through it, four stars when I'm done.
Interesting note - he claims in this book (I think this book) that one can point to any place on a map of America and he will have been within 25 miles of it at some point in his travels. How freaking awesome is that?!?
Totally unrelated and irrelevant comment, as this thought just randomly crossed my mind: I'm SICK of hot weather now and ready for duck season to arrive. Quack quack.
Another unrelated comment: I've got skinny wrists. Makes me mad.
Finally, I like love Krispy Kreme Chocolate Glazed Doughnuts.
This is a bad-ass book in terms of being the work of an independent thinker a nature-loving rebel, and a critic of modernism. That is what I like about it. But he went overboard- reduced his friends' credit into one, aggregate, seemingly incompetent character. I am still flabbergasted by that. Whether or not the friendship ended somewhat sourly, Heat-Moon should have told the truth, the outright colorful (though not necessarily friction-free) details of his friends' amateur boating efforts. I never saw in their perspective, I never got to be emphatic (nor even angry!) with them as a reader of adventure should. Never mind if it's a roller-coaster, icky romance or ball pen wars as long as you give them credit!
The beginning was in cumbersome, heavily-laden sentence that I felt like it's Charles Dickens' time once again. The impact of the kind of soil on bends are left out by Heat-Moon. Botanical impacts are not many as it should be, certainly not as sesame seed on a bochi. It is rather riddled with historical excerpts . There are times when history interjections are lovable, but I would still have preferred a considerable part of it to his own poetic presentation, not journalistic collection.
A winning book by one the masters of travel writing, an audacious journey that no one had ever completed, and a primer on how to get along with your traveling companions. After I finished his first book on travel, Blue Highways, I bought a second copy so that I could give one away, as I do, and keep one to reread. That’s high praise from me. And this book will likely take the same course. Read it because you like rivers and the boats that travel them, read it because you like travel in the least-seen parts of the US, or read it because you like great writing.
This book is a slog, let's just get that out of the way right now! At about 500 pages it's a hefty tome but it feels even longer thanks to Heat-Moon's plodding plotting and his style of overwriting. I really enjoyed Blue Highways when I read it years ago and the idea of his travelling the USA via rivers intrigued me and I'm glad I read the book but...
The author travels the entire journey with a man we know only as Pilotis, this gets annoying fast and we never learn a thing about the man he travels months and thousands of miles with. There are other travel companions and they remain similarly anonymous so there's virtually no meaningful human interaction in the entire book. They stop frequently on their journey but apart from accounts of small talk with waitresses and the occasional farmer we never learn anything meaningful about the towns they pass through or the people who live near the water or work on it (the people who works the river locks or pilot river barges are pretty much universally described negatively).
All criticisms aside, the journey they embark on is audacious and worth reading about. I had no idea what sort of impact damns, dredging and other human activities have had on the US's waterways and it's worth reading the book for this alone. This is definitely not a must read but if you have a love for travel and nautical literature it may be worth picking up.
Very disappointing book. While Least Heat-Moon's earlier book, Blue Highways, expressed his curiosity about and appreciation of the people he encountered in his travels, this book does not. Instead, he seems to subtly sneer at almost everyone he meets - except those who provide tangible help in his journey. Far more time is spent describing rubbish strewn river banks than their beauty. The only "humor" in the book is the supposedly witty responses he provides in response to others. In short, it felt like discovering a wonderful old friend had become self-absorbed and bitter over the years.
Inspired by reading Blue Highways, I came to love the point of view of this native American author. He figures out a way to travel by water across the continental United States. His encounters with people along the canals, lakes and rivers recall the America of a century ago, when automobile and air travel did not prevail. He also teaches by example a warm and respectful attitude toward native Americans and towards all kinds of people.
One of the few books I couldn't bring myself to finish. I've been told that it gets better, but honestly I don't care. The sheer arrogance was too much to bare. Despite the contributions of his ever changing support staff, they are all mashed together into a fictional copilot character 'Pilotis', apparently to keep continuity and give him an ever-present stalwart mate. The narrative is stand-offish, the insights are forced, and the journey itself is overwrought with planning specifics that are conveniently left out.
The inevitable question is: Why am I reading this?
I really struggled to finish this - what should have been a great read was a load of pretentious tripe! Throughout the book, Heat-Moon never seems to decide if the trip is supposed to be a rugged, Lewis and Clark-type excursion to truly experience America by river, or an opportunity to tell the reader how superior he is by criticizing the rural communities he passes through and the agencies and people that helped make his trip possible. 'My God - the backwoods place doesn't even have Guinness!' Please.
It seemed like a good idea: a book about traveling across America by river by the author of Blue Highways. But in many ways River Horse indulges in far too many of the weakest aspects of the former book such as a strain of off-putting lamentation/anger/pity combined with an awful narrative device (turning a host of co-pilots into the faceless "Pilotis"). And it suffers from the lack of human contact/interest that helped Blue Highways overcome. Some decent sections but ultimately disappointing.
I've tried to finish this book multiple times over the last several years and I've finally done it. I've heard nothing but wonderful things about the author and the premise of the book sounds amazing but every time I've picked it up it's been a struggle fest. Least Heat Moon combined several live humans into composite characters and the effect can be a bit jarring at times. I still really want to read Blue Highways but this was not a promising entry into his work.
William Least Heat Moon gets this idea that he might find the Northwest Passage,plans the whole trip out, and then sets out to do it with a special boat, a good friend, and a group of people watching out for them and helping out when needed. His story is entrancing, part geography, part history, part autobiographical, part lyrical.
Though a little hauty at times, it's amazing to read about the cultures that converge along the waterways. The author is definitely anti-civil works. As much damage as a dam can do to an ecosystem, there are benefits that are ignored by Least Heat Moon. One-sided environmentalism gets old, but a traveling story is timeless... definitely worth reading.
I am not a boater, and have done no river traveling except on a tour, but River-Horse took me along on a fascinating journey across America. Some places along the river I have seen - the stream at Lumhi Pass - and the Gateway to the Rockies. They were seen from the ground, however, not the river. Now I'll have to read PrairiyErth! I really enjoy his writing and humor.
It took me awhile to complete, because I let my progress slowly roll along the river routes that the author described. In the end, I know it has been a very satisfying journey through reading about this grand adventure - and all of it true. I'm glad I own the book because I would not be surprised if I were to return to it to savor individual incidents and philosophical insights about the exploration of America from coast to coast (sea to shining sea and the connecting water routes), both historical and contemporary.
I have been entranced by travel literature since the early '70s, when I read On the Road. I've read two of Heat-Moon's other books, PrairyErth and Blue Highways. So far, this is the best.